Feature - Exposed Online

Fashion Industry Profile: David Bush - Life after David Jones & his thoughts on the Australian Fashion industry

First published in fashioninitiative.com.au

David Bush walks into our office, and he instantly exudes a sincere warmth. Greeting me with a warm hug and double kiss, there is absolutely nothing pretentious or insincere about this Australian fashion industry stalwart. He has an infectious smile and clearly still loves the industry he has contributed so much to. Retailing is ingrained in his blood, with his father and mentor, who was also one of the directors of David Jones until the 1980′s and who worked there for over 43 years. It was the only job his father ever had.

Unlike his father, after a stellar 25-year career at David Jones, he ended it a year ago where he bravely made the choice to leave the department store he affectionately refers to as 'The Houndstooth'. It would be a big decision for anyone, considering it was not a small career he had there, (Bush was General Manager of Womenswear and responsible for a team of 34 staff). During his tenure at David Jones he typically worked his way up the ranks from being a trainee in 1984, to fashion sales to buying and was responsible in bringing labels such as Paul Smith, Nicole Farhi, Calvin Klein, Armani Collezioni, Ted Baker and Ralph Lauren to the Australian market. He has also played a major role in the development of local brands such as Willow, Calibre, Bec & Bridge, Zimmerman, Camilla, and Thurley.

Phoebes Garland is a Features Writer for EXPOSED Online and co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion with Robert Garland, a leading fashion agency based in Sydney . Phoebe also owns http://fashioninitiative.com.au/ an online fashion destination covering business of fashion, fashion, luxury and events. Phoebes Garland was described as a" Power Agent", by Ragtrader magazine. Between the two of them, Phoebes & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a respected leading boutique fashion agency based in Sydney, and they are regularly sought for comment from various media & the fashion industry on business fashion topics and issues. Phoebes Garland was also one of the judges for The Spirit of the Black Dress in 2012 (LMFF).

However, not wanting to be the 'last man standing', as he states, he bravely made the move to leave the famed department store, where he left such a legacy. He has now embarked on his role of David Bush Consulting, and while loving his new life he does recall at times, it has been a bit of an adjustment going from having a large team of staff to just him now. Since leaving, he looks relaxed, happy and is loving his new consulting career which never consists of the same day. One day he may be called in by a large apparel company to help oversee the recruiting process of a General Manager, to the next day, helping a large chain store make the transition of a strategy from 50 stores to 150. He wears many hats, and it speaks volumes of his diverse level of retail and fashion expertise, and the respect and friendships he has gained in a notoriously tough and not so kind industry at times.

Yet despite all of this, he is still extremely humble. He doesn't profess to always know the answers in this challenging retailing climate which makes him quite endearing. However make no mistake, he is highly astute in his observations about fashion and retail. Interestingly despite working at a department store, he is actually not for the incessant discounting, which has become such common place in retail and believes it has to stop. He has seen first-hand that if you have the right product mix at the right price in recession proof categories, such as certain fashion categories, shoes, cosmetics and accessories you don't have to rely on discounting to ensure sell through. He agrees discounting is usually a result of the wrong product mix at the wrong price, but he remains also empathetic in the case of chain stores and department stores, as he understands the C.E.O's are put in a difficult situation, due to being under immense pressure operating public companies and having shareholders expectations to adhere to.

When asked about the survival of the independent retailers with the influx of overseas chain stores arriving to Australia, he still believes these retailers can succeed with exceptional customer service, developing strong relationships with their customers and can compete on offering a point of difference to what is in the chain stores, where everything starts to look the same. But he does add "Those days of retailers just trading along in their shops are over, they have to have a business acumen". He points out customers still want the "Cheers" television show motto experience in retailing - " Where everybody knows your name", and maintains independent retailers also have the local area knowledge advantage over the department stores and chain stores, especially in regional areas, when the department stores are central buying in the city.

Like many experienced rag traders, Bush stresses the importance of understanding the customer, right down to what the customers are doing on a day to day basis in their clothes to understand the functionality of how they wear garments. He recalls while managing his large team, if a team members section was suffering, he would send them to the relevant store to work on the floor to really observe the customer and find some feedback first hand as to what the customer wanted. Not as punishment to the staff member, just so they could really understand the core customer, and who they were buying for. It's this down to earth approach to retail, which really stands out about him.

Bush also notes this about consumer spending. "Long gone are the days when the lady will buy three different dresses all to wear in one day, these days that lady is wearing a dress with a jacket and stockings to work for meetings, then perhaps changing her stockings and shoes, and relies on that dress to go out for drinks or dinner to pick up a bloke."

On the subject of visual merchandising, he also wisely observes the customer should know instantly when they walk into a shop whether or not it's for them, and believes independent retailers have to concentrate on not being everything to everyone by stocking too many different brands and need to concentrate on targeting their core customer. He does understand their mentality in doing this though. "They are trying to grab every sale possible by stocking 40 different brands and buying a little of each brand and terrified of losing out on a sale,", but points out, this doesn't work in the long run. " You can't be everything to everyone, it would be much better to stock three different brands as opposed to doing a bad job and stocking 40 different brands and not knowing your customer, nor supporting any brand properly or the customer ". He cites.

Always smiling with a self-deprecating humour, you can see why the Australian fashion industry loves him so much. Despite his large corporate career, he has always been very generous with his time, taking the time to mentor young designers. He spends time giving back to the industry he loves through various mentoring programs for young designers. "It's important that we as an industry support one another". On the day of the interview, he was flying to Brisbane to pass on his knowledge of the future of digital retail and the future of fashion brands, as a speaker at the Queensland University of Technology. On the topic of discussing emerging designers in Australia and their future, he expresses concern about the lack of business acumen which isn't being taught in their courses, and urges them to partner with someone who can offer a business element and to take care of the commercial realities to ensure survival. Bush also concludes it's not an easy time for them to be manufacturing in Australia, not having the ability to meet production minimums overseas and states the Australian Government seems to have very little interest in helping halt the demise of manufacturing in the fashion industry which young designers rely on. He also urges young designers to do the hard yards with their brands and do their own selling for a few years, and get a few rejections to learn how to achieve a commercial offering and find their customer.

In terms of a missing market segment in fashion, He concludes there is an untapped market in the over 50′s market for women and maintains there is still a huge gap missing in this market, but admits it's sadly not a category anyone wants to design for, despite being such a lucrative market. It's been well over an hour since his arrival, and he says he could talk all day about the industry, but checking his watch and realising he has to leave to board his flight, he gets up. But not before enquiring about the welfare of my husband's health drama in New York. It's this interest in others and caring side that seems to come through. No pretentiousness, no ego, and definitely not a man who beats his own drum. Yet his achievements in the Australian Fashion Industry have been considerable. David Jones was just the beginning for him, there will be plenty more of David Bush to come.

To read more from Phoebes Garland, head to fashioninitiative.com.au

Is online retailing less profitable?

Given the mixed messages from media and online news sites, it can be difficult to know how much online retailing is really impacting the fashion industry.

Media is consistent with its message, in that it loves to reveal staggering figures. The most recent coming from The National Australia Bank's Online Retail Sales Index showing Australians spent $13.5 billion online in the year to April, up $2 billion on the previous year.

But a recent ABC report states, "Despite the 23 per cent growth, online sales still only made up 6 per cent of retail spending, up from 5.2 per cent the year before."

So of course when we came across this article via The Retail Doctor titled `Is Online retailing less profitable?', we had to share.

Particularly this quote - "Everything we hear is an opinion, not a fact. Everything we see is a perspective, not the truth," Marcus Aurelius.

The physical store will always be the jewel in the crown of the shopping experience. Building interrelated, integrated channels is critical, as is bringing customers back to the physical environment at every opportunity - this should always be the mantra of the overall shopping experience and it is certainly critical to a retailers profitability model. We want to socialise by instinct, be wowed by experience, and this is the heartland of physical store retail.

Although we love the convenience online provides and, for many of us, the attraction of a "low entry cost" retail offer is very compelling, but perhaps the reality of online retail is starting to appear a little different? One clear reason for this is that online retailing is becoming seen as the less profitable channel to sell through (all else being equal).

It wasn't that long ago we believed an online operation would deliver typically on average five per cent greater NPBT than its physical store. Well, now we are seeing strong evidence that this is not the case at all. What is the new online reality? What has caused this potential shift?

Let's look at the UK, which currently has the highest penetration of online retail in the world. UK retailers are seeing this decline in profitability for pure online channel sales occurring with the "free freight" factor coupled with high returns. Add to this significant price transparency brought about by the very advent of online retail (a sort of self cannibalisation?) and we see this inevitable "race to the bottom" that a largely commoditised product category, and many if not all online categories essentially are, starting to occur.

On the topic of returns, many of Europe and the UK's leading retailers such as John Lewis, or Debenhams, are staring at an exponential growth in online returns that are many times higher than the physical store returns. In some cases online retail is as high as 20 per cent of business and returns can be up to 10 times greater on thinner margins which adds up to unprofitable business models.

Interestingly, the migration of sales to online channels requires retailers to cover online logistics costs while store-based costs remain the same.

Where online sales cannibalise store sales, EBIT margins can fade (potentially sharply into loss) without material opex efficiency gain. Conversely, online sales that don't cannibalise, rather integrate with the multi channel offer, enhance profitability.

To read more of this article, visit theretaildoctor.com.au

Let's talk luxury with Marion Hume

The Australian fashion industry has taken a hit in recent years. Post GFC, designers and retailers are grappling with the online movement, meeting the ever-changing demands of the 'new' consumer 24 hours a day, a high Australian dollar, shipping constraints due to our unique global positioning, and vast manufacturing limitations. And that's just the beginning.

Yet despite this, our top designers continue to forge ahead and adapt to tough times. Many of them are now recognised internationally as global luxury brands. Akira Isogawa continues to shine in Paris; sass & bide, Willow and Dion Lee showcase their collections at London Fashion Week to critical acclaim; while Zimmermann, Ellery and Christopher Esber are breaking into the US market. Many of their collections, including fellow Australian success story Josh Goot, have also featured as designer trunk shows on popular e-commerce site, Moda Operandi.

And it's for this reason, successful Australian designers Zimmermann and sass & bide have been hand picked to form the debut line-up for Bespoke - an Australian luxury business and fashion summit held on May 16 at the iconic Sydney Opera House.

The diverse line-up brings fashion and business together to discuss global trends, digital innovation and creative collaboration. Education, discussion and collaboration is certainly something the industry is in dire need of.

Bespoke will be presented by lauded fashion editor and international authority, Marion Hume. Based in London, Hume is the International Fashion Editor for the Australian Financial Review (AFR) and has written for newspapers and magazines in the US, the UK and Australia.

Other speakers include Business of Fashion Founder, Imran Amed; digital supermodel and judge on US program 'The Face', Coco Rocha along with her husband and artist, James Conran; Editor-in-Chief of MR PORTER.COM, Jeremy Langmead; CEO/Founder of J Brand, Jeff Rudes, and many more.

EXPOSED Online spoke with Hume during her Australian Fashion Week visit to discuss career highlights; the impact of e-comm; the ongoing blogger vs journo debate; and why Bespoke is so crucial to the Australian fashion industry right now.

AND we have 2 x tickets to give away to the Bespoke event (value $1590). Read on for entry details.

Your time as a fashion journalist has spanned many careers, continents and eras - what are some of the most significant changes you've seen and experienced during your tenure?

Obviously the biggest thing is the rise of blogs. The most sweeping change is the rise of blogs - and the fact that bloggers are now in the front row. It's happened so fast for those of use who have been sitting in those seats for a while, and also for the bloggers themselves. They are becoming a lot more sophisticated and, in return, those of us who began in print have of course migrated into the blogosphere.

You now have people who are bloggers but who yield both power and are enormously respected, such as Imran Amed. You also have magazines that exist purely online.

The other thing that has changed enormously is speed. It's not that we were slow before. The deadlines have stayed the same. The time it takes to write an article cannot speed up beyond how fast you can actually type, but the time which it appears - now it appears seconds after you type ENDS. In the newspaper world, there used to be a six hour lag. The other thing about the online world that is very positive - in the old print model, once you'd written, it was published and be damned, but now you can go back and input and update, and stories can grow and readers and interact and be part of a growing story.

You have worked across glamorous titles from Vogue to Esquire magazine and Harpers Bazaar, interviewing equally glamorous subjects including Lauren Hutton and Verushka. Who are some of the identities that really stood out to you? And why?

Number 1 is Karl Lagerfeld because he is not scared of strong opinions, both his own and other peoples'. He relishes debate and he is also extremely intelligent. Being with him is never a cosy experience, but it is always a fascinating one, and to have held the position that he has held at Chanel since 1983 is extraordinary. He's had 30 years at the most sophisticated brand in the world and has absolutely held his game. His opinions are not set. He is perpetually young.

Alber Albaz is another. It is a terrible cliché to say that a designer loves women - what they like is a pastiche of an outdated Hollywood image of what a woman should be wearing a turban and glamorous dress. It's a completely male sense of glamour, yet Alber has a real understanding of a modern woman's glamorous life. It's always about the woman and it isn't about an idealised woman who is a size 8. He understands the variations of the female form and he addresses it in a fascinating way. Plus, he is very interesting to talk to.

In an Australian context, one of the designers I most enjoy sitting down with is Josh Goot. He is very thoughtful and analytical - he is both visually thoughtful and mentally thoughtful. You get the sense that the clothes he creates - while they look casual there is nothing casual about the process that created them. The same with Akira Isogawa, there's nothing casual in his approach. The thing that ties them all is that they're passionate.

Also, Vivienne Westwood, because while she is very unpredictable the core of Vivienne is she is absolutely an advocate for humanity. Fashion is much more than frocks to her. Sometimes it's almost too much, but I admire her for going out on the wire the way she does.

In 1989 you filmed a fabulous six-part series on BBC called The Look interviewing fashion's great designers such as Gianni Versace and Christian Lacroix - the Runway episode is now a cult classic - what was it like to be surrounded by so many inspiring designers, at a time when high fashion was like the new Hollywood and the Supermodel was born? Do you have any fun anecdotes you can share?

In retrospect it was amazing because it was at a moment of really great change. Fashion used to a whimsical business dictated by designers in their ivory towers and as we pointed our cameras it changed into what is now the global luxury business.

What careful viewers will see is that in the background of two shots there is a man to whom we pay no attention because no one had heard of him. And that man is Bernard Anault who is now the richest man in France, and without question the single individual who has the most influence on fashion.

As for anecdotes, I'm actually in every episode in all sorts of disguises. There is one shot where you see the buyer for Bloomingdales and you can see his eyes watching a model on the runway - the model is actually me. The other scene was filming the knock-off designer goods people in Canal Street in New York - the market stall holder in the hat is actually me. That's because we needed someone who could hold the t-shirts up high enough so we could see them when the camera was hidden.

We also spent lots of running around carrying tripods. And they're very heavy. So although what's on screen is really glamorous, the making of it was actually quite butch. This was pre-digital, and we were a deliberately small crew; we didn't have assistants. A lot of my memories of it were trying to work out what I could wear to interview designers and then run blocks carrying something. Because it was a different time it wasn't controlled by publicists. When The Look was made it was much more open. It was enormous fun.

Your forthrightness and honesty when it comes to fashion journalism have been praised by many for "not being part of the 'conspiracy of silence' - since the Hedi Slimane twitter rant after reading Cathy Horyn's review for his Saint Laurent debut, it seems real fashion critique is welcomed less and less in today's fashion industry - would you agree? Especially for fashion eds at major magazine titles where advertising is so crucial to the survival of print. Do you think the dollar is affecting opinion?

Yes I would agree that fashion criticism is changing. There are very few titles left where you can have any kind of opinion because so much of the advertising revenue that props up print magazines comes from the luxury sector.

However, thankfully for me, the AFR is one of a handful of magazines anywhere in the world where we still very much separate editorial from advertising so you cannot buy your way on to the cover. There is nothing you can do to make that happen. I'm very much supported by my editor Jeni Porter in that regard. Whereas when you look at the glossy magazines they necessarily have what we might call a "warmer" relationship with their advertisers.

One of the most exciting magazine debuts is The Edit, which is the magazine of Net-A-Porter where the whole magazine is shop-able so of course there is no place in a magazine like that for criticism, but that is not to criticise that magazine; it has a worthwhile place in the market and in some regards it's a much more honest proposition because the consumer of the magazine absolutely knows what they're getting.

Criticism that has moved online, has become less than helpful. It has become a business of like or dislike. It's become a place where if you like it, it could be connected to the fact that you're earning your living by click-through so you are evidently going to say that handbag is wonderful. To the take it to the other extreme, the online world is where people vent. And there is a big difference between venting and constructive criticism.

What are your thoughts on new media? That is bloggers, street style photographers and social media servants? And how will it affect fashion journalism in the future?

In terms of street style photography, it made attending fashion shows exciting in a different way. There's a show and there's a show outside the show. Some of the people that get dressed up to be photographed don't even attend the show. There are magazines that really employ people to dress up and be photographed - it makes going to the shows a much richer experience.

There's this added visual element which is exciting. I am still not utterly convinced of the purpose of social media in fashion. I think so much of the tweeting of fashion is done "in the name of" - the CEOs tweet, but they don't personally tweet. I think the worse offence is when people actually engage too much. Bombarding people with information is perhaps not particularly welcome. I'm fascinated by the fact that you scan the runway and 50 percent of people are looking down at their phones. And then another 20 percent are looking through their ipads.

Not only has fashion journalism changed with new technology, but shopping is affected globally now too with the continued growth of e-comm & m-comm - these some of the topics you will tackle with the incredible line-up at Bespoke luxury fashion summit - why is this event so crucial to the Australian fashion industry right now?

I don't think it's an empty boast to say that Australia is the country that is most changed by e-commerce. Distance no longer means anything. The defining thing about this island continent - an Australian girl can shop at her desk in exactly the same way as a girl in New York. There is nothing now that we can't have. The pioneer in that regard is without a doubt Natalie Massenet, who way ahead saw a very clear path of how luxury could be sold by e-commerce. There were massive companies that went down in flames at around the time net-a -porter was taking baby steps. She survived because she understood how to marry the availability of ecommerce with the delicious indulgence of luxury shopping.

Right from the beginning she had the fabulous packaging, but what's also interesting in that regard is that one of the biggest trends in fashion is the shift to ethical purchasing but in a glamorous way. Natalie was also very fast there. You can choose to have the glamorous packaging or you can choose to have no packaging at all. E-commerce helps you understand your consumer because you work with them directly. That meant when she launched Mr Porter all the lessons learnt could be applied to a menswear offer. Mr Porter is distinct in the way it addresses its customer. She has invented a way for men to shop that suits Australian men very well. Yes there are other e-commerce companies but none that do it quite the same way. That's why I was obsessively keen that Jeremy Langmead take to the stage and tell the story of the net-a-porter group.

You are a consultant to ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative, which harnesses the power of fashion as a vehicle out of poverty for some of the world's poorest people. Simon Cirpiani from the United Nations progamme will speak at Bespoke on the collaboration with sass&bide and their mission towards making fashion a fairer place - can you discuss your personal involvement with the initiative? What are some of the ethical messages we need to impart to buyers when purchasing clothing?

I went to Kenya in 2009 and saw the work of ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative and was asked to join the programme. I have two roles - I'm a Senior Consultant and also a Strategist.

Fashion is driven by desire, and most people think of ethical fashion as "pity purchasing". With the ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative there is no "pity purchasing". People buy our products because they want them. We connect the top of the fashion industry - Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney etc - to marginalised artisans in mutable and profitable collaboration.

I cannot imagine how anyone could tolerate the fact that someone has been harmed for the clothes on their back. What is the cost equation for the woman who made it? In most cases it is a woman. Ethical doesn't mean hemp trousers and you don't have to look like a tree hugging guy to be ethical.

Imran Amed, the founder of Business of Fashion, is a major coup for the Bespoke line-up. He has transformed his site from an online underdog into a major news source for international businesses - why do you think this website has seen so much success?

Imran Amed was very smart in seeing a gap in the market that the fashion world had been dominated by a fashion daily paper that was really known as the fashion bible. That paper, WWD, has a hundred year history, but it started as a paper, and when they migrated to the web - Imran saw there was a niche for something that was invented for the digital world. He saw the gap and has been able to be way more nimble because his business never existed in the print world. He's very clever and he's very strategic and his key difference - because his background is not in fashion - fashion is often about a rather instinctive way of interpreting trends that are coming, or even creating those trends.

What Imran has done - it's a very long term business view. It's almost like he looked through the future of fashion through a telescope. He saw the potential of the most visual form of media - which is the internet. BoF is shrewd, strategic and very stylish.

Coco Rocha is the latest name added to the event line-up, how will the international model boost the Bespoke schedule?

Coco defines a new kind of supermodel and to think of what she is we have to look back at what that original group of supermodels were. It's a term that has become very hackneyed in hindsight with all sorts of models claiming they were super models. The supermodels absolutely began with Elle Macpherson, then Linda, Naomi, Christy Turlington and then Kate Moss. It was a staggered wave. Those women really changed the way that models were thought of. There have been various other claimants for that title.

Coco isn't super the way they were on the runway. She's created a different kind of model. She's used the physical platform of walking up and down a runway - she's used that to build her own brand platform and she's doing it extremely shrewdly. She's a digital native age and she has really understood how to harness the power of the internet to her brand. The only other person I can think of - she's not as famous as Laga Gaga, but she had the same brainwave. She has used a newish way of communication to reach out globally in a whole different way. She's also been very shrewd in that, in the past models were kind of faceless mannequins on who people projected things. Modelling is a controversial profession because young women get used by modelling, whereas Coco has used used modelling to her own end.

With Coco, we are just at the beginning. What's fascinating to me, it's about hearing from someone who is at the beginning of a certain career arc. What will come will be even more fascinating than what has come before.

Will Bespoke continue as an annual Sydney event? What's in store for the future?

We're so excited about May 16th and the speakers that are coming in from across the world and just as excitingly, the speakers who are coming from right here who are doing something they've never done before. Our focus is absolutely on that day with those people in that incredible venue. The fact that this is the 40th birthday year of the Sydney Opera House is just an incredible thing for us and the Australian Financial Review is incredibly proud to be hosting Bespoke in this UNESCO world heritage listed icon.

Thanks to the Bespoke team, EXPOSED Online have two tickets to give away (valued at $1590).

For your chance to win, simply;

1. Like the Bespoke Facebook page - Facebook.com/Bespoke

2. Tell us in 25 words or less ' what has been your favourite creative collaboration?'

3. Email us with your name and contact: sacha.strebe@aec.net.au

Competition closes Monday May 13 at 5pm. This competition does not include transfers, travel or accommodation to attend the event. Winner will be notified via email.

EARLY BIRD SPECIAL:

Bespoke have kindly extended their early bird rate exclusive to EXPOSED Online readers.

For one week only, tickets are just $499 each (normally $795) and can be accessed using the code 'BESPOKEFF'

To purchase, call the Sydney Opera House box office or via sydneyoperahouse.com/Bespoke

Bespoke is to be held on Thursday May 16 at The Sydney Opera House.

Follow Bespoke on social media;

Facebook: Facebook.com/Bespoke

Instagram: @BespokeSummit

Twitter: @BespokeSummit

New York retail observations

Recently I headed over to New York, and while it seems that the retail climate isn't exactly booming worldwide, it seems the American's do have some exceptional skills in retailing.

With low-income based wages and with retail staff reliant on tipping and commission based wages in the USA, I have got to say, this system definitely works for outstanding customer service and I found myself actually pro this system. Essentially this system has trained retail to staff to think of retail as an incentive based career, rather than just a stepping stone job. It forces them to come up with sales solutions, be helpful and resolve problems to earn the sale. Customer service in the US and United Kingdom is without a doubt a step ahead and exceptional. I can understand why so many people from abroad are not impressed with our customer service skills.

Phoebes Garland is a Features Writer for EXPOSED Online and co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion a leading fashion agency based in Sydney & www.fashioninitative.com.au an online fashion destination covering business of fashion, fashion, luxury and events. Phoebes Garland was described as a" Power Agent", by Ragtrader magazine. Between the two of them, Phoebes & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a respected leading boutique fashion agency based in Sydney, and they are regularly sought for comment from various media & the fashion industry on business fashion topics and issues. Phoebes Garland was also one of the judges for The Spirit of the Black Dress in 2012 (LMFF).

Communication, common courtesy and manners are highlighted in New York, which I admit I found surprising as I heard it could be the exact opposite. I expected brash, rude and brassy, instead I was pleasantly surprised. As, one of our friends pointed out about New York, there is a definite level of sophistication over there, which Australia does seem to lack. It's a city that thrives on business success and as one ex pat mentioned to me; there isn't that tall poppy syndrome which can be evident here. What you don't get in customer service is the defensiveness, which is so common in Australia when you go to return something or suggest something to better the retail experience. We all seem to take it so personally for some reason.

In New York, they really respond to information and feedback to enhance the retail experience. I really noticed when facing problems they were solution orientated and don't take the situation personally, which was utterly refreshing. In essence, there is a strong element of professionalism. They listen, understand the problem and their aim is finding a solution, as opposed to the blame game, which can be common place in many Australian retail business and probably a result of too many difficult customers jading retailers. One thing that really won me over, was they don't hesitate to apologise if something goes wrong, which is something that for some reason, Australian's see as a sign of weakness, which I will never understand.

The warm sincere greeting when walking into a shop and an equally warm greeting when you leave a shop enhances their further customer service skills, particularly if you don't buy anything, which actually makes you want to return to that shop to buy at a later date and speaks volumes of the sales staff in enhancing a relationship with the customer. There is also a level of maturity in the young retail staff and it really does make all the difference to the shopping experience. They also seemed to have learned the art of being helpful without being intrusive. What is most noticeable is, whenever you say thank you to anyone, they automatically respond with standard reply "You're welcome". And it's not only limited to retail staff, but also the policeman on the street when asking for directions. It's almost a child-like politeness, which is rather endearing.

While the chain stores definitely seem to dominate in New York, there is a distinct lack of small, independent retail shops. The Meatpacking district, Greenwich Village and Soho are mainly the large luxury chain stores. Chain stores and department stores do tend to dominate in Manhattan and after trawling through several suburbs, the feelings of 'sameness' is as evident as trawling through Australia's equivalent of Westfield's, no matter how luxury the chain store. So from a shopping perspective, I made a mental note to buy brands I can't get here or online, or are significantly cheaper, which even that was surprising with many brands on par with price. I also chose quality as opposed to quantity, and with my hatred for polyester, I concentrated on paying more for embellishments on garments and better-end, higher-end labels where I could see the work and quality in the garment or fabric.

Discounting seems to be universal worldwide in department stores and chain stores. With major departments stores taking out big advertisements in the New York Times advertising sales offering 30% off already reduced items on April 15^th with new season delivery items barely in store. You can perhaps see where David Jones and Myer get their inspiration for discounting. But actually in store, the discounting is quite discrete, sure there are sale racks but you really have to look for them.

Visual merchandising is one thing that is well worth noting. It really is quite breathtaking and something that is lacking drastically in Australia. From a customer point of view, it really made the shopping experience so much easier without the clutter of bits of 40 different brands all lumped together in no clear order. As one fashion friend pointed out, with the abundance of every ' fashionista', wanting to be a 'stylist' in Australia, if they actually turned to freelance visual merchandising, it would probably be a lot more lucrative and in better demand for them. It is definitely an area most retailers need to invest in and improve on.

Ladies shoes remained a highly recession-proof category from the luxury component right through to the more affordable categories. Women didn't hesitate throwing money on footwear. While on the fashion element, one thing to also note was the layout and entire floors dedicated to the same ranges of brands duplicated into either plus sizes or petite sizes, which indicates how strong the market is for these categories. From a consumer perspective, it is rather odd travelling to another floor upstairs in a department store and seeing the exact same floor as the floor below just dedicated to a specialty category. The level of wealth in the US is highly evident, with the department stores dedicated to a more specific luxury offering similar to Europe or Asia, with Barneys, Saks and Bergdorf's the leaders of the pack.

Something I did note was the fabrics in ZARA have changed significantly. Previously small elements of silk and viscose could be found in ZARA and now it's largely dominated by polyester and is being produced in abundance, either due to either not being able to sell silk or being unable to produce a price point. While ZARA was once a coveted overseas chain store, like many summer wholesale ranges in Australia, their summer ranges seems to be their weakness.

While retail is certainly sluggish worldwide, and will take some years for the return of consumer confidence, the biggest tip for Australian retailers is to be concentrating on customer service, strong visual merchandising and to educate the customer away from all the cheap landfill garments that is so readily available in chain stores and also in some wholesale stock ranges.

I personally am sick of the landfill of bad product that is everywhere. Bring back quality and value for money and stop selling just on price alone. The customer needs to be educated on the different level of quality in garments and what they can expect to pay for. Essentially, the customer needs to understand, the old motto, 'you get what you pay for'.

If you have a unique point of difference, a good online offering, along with exceptional service and value for money product and prices, it will keep them coming back every time.

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World Retail Congress Asia Pacific: key ideas

Asian and global retailers are being urged to rethink their growth strategy and put the focus back on the consumer.

WGSN analysis

Timing is everything. Taking the time to develop a solid competitive advantage and a winning business model beats overenthusiasm for new-market potential
Consumer diversity within regions and countries means tailoring the message appropriately, with innovation and brand building needing a local touch to remain relevant to the market
Personalisation is key. Finding ways to speak individually to consumers is important, while effective strategies to harness the power of social media can create an advantage

Understanding local markets, putting customers at the centre of business and strengthening competitive advantage are key success factors for retailers in the burgeoning Asian markets, said speakers at the recent World Retail Congress Asia Pacific 2013.

While the Chinese market and technology remain top of mind, this year retailers are also focusing on how to manage and meet changing customer expectations, as well as creating a seamless experience across multiple consumer touch points.

Cautious market entry

Gap Inc was one of the later apparel brands to enter China in 2010, but Greater China president Redmond Yeung said the timing was key for the company to gain an in-depth understanding of Chinese consumer behaviour and preferences.

"You've got to be loyal to your own offering. If you're trying to be different things to different folks it never works. When people ask me 'why are you so late to the China market?', I firmly believe the market wasn't ready for us a few years back."

Tesco's CEO Philip Clarke said the biggest risk for retailers looking to expand in the market was overenthusiasm. He stressed the importance for a brand to develop its competitive advantage in a particular market before considering new market entries.

"Eyes too big for belly is a way to describe it. Those new markets you want to leap into will still be there for the next 15, 20 years."

Robinsons Group of Companies' chief executive and Al Futtaim Group's head of Asia Jim McCallum added that rising rent in Asia is another reason why retailers must make sure they have a viable business model before they enter a particular market.

Market-specific innovation

For a global brand like adidas, managing director of Greater China Colin Currie said brand building and digital innovation are critical, but they must be done for a reason that is relevant to the local market.

"China is one market, but two worlds, split between lower and higher-tier cities. For higher-tier youth it's about individuality: they don't want to follow the herd. At the lower tiers it's about belonging, and becoming cool."

Gavin Parker, managing partner of retail consultancy The Renewal Partnership and senior advisor at Boston Consulting Group, said retailers should not assume that a format that worked in one market would work in another.

Tesco's Clarke added the company's corporate training and learning centre was now headquartered in Seoul to ensure innovation was being driven and refined by Asian markets.

Recognising the increasing trend of smartphone use and customer expectation of convenient shopping in emerging Asian markets, Tesco launched its mobile grocery shopping app this January and it became the country's fastest downloaded app in just its first week.

"This is a world of hyper-speed choice, global connectivity, and you fail the moment you stand still," Clarke said.

Get personal

Communicating with customers on a personalised, individual level continues to be a key topic for Asian retailers. Hong Kong jeweller Chow Tai Fook's managing director Kent Wong said the brand is enhancing the shopping experience by launching megastores with one-to-one service areas in Shanghai and Beijing, as well as providing intensive customer relationship training across all staff levels.

Facebook's e-commerce lead South East Asia Deepesh Trivedi added social media has created a platform for retailers to have direct and real-time influence on consumers, as "everyone wants to know what matters to them".

Personalisation is also taking centre stage in e-commerce as Justin Chen, vice-president of Tmall.com, described online shopping in China is shifting from a sales platform to a consumer connection platform to allow tailored products based on consumer demands.

"Like it or not we're getting more and more involved in social networking tools. More and more the social aspect is becoming more important in the retail experience."

A 360-degree experience

Motorola Solutions' director of retail industry Southeast Asia Anand J Mehta told delegates that physical stores were not working hard enough for retailers as consumers now want information and service whenever and wherever they prefer. Retailers, he said, have to develop channels to deliver individual experiences within the store and through the individual's preferred media.

But Asian retailers who are tackling online and offline integration are seeing results. Chow Tai Fook opened an online store two years ago and Wong said the sales platform had grown three-fold annually, and that it also helps drive consumers to visit the stores to experience the products.

"I believe the online platform is not only a new sales platform but it's a way to build up a connection with the consumer," Wong said.

Just as offline stores need to integrate to a digital product, online channels need to become more personal places to shop. Japanese e-commerce giant Rakuten has been operating its platform as a "virtual marketplace full of experts", said senior executive officer and director Toru Shimada, to make the digital connection more humanised.

For more information, visit wgsn.com

Remix - Fashion & Beauty Industry Trend Summer 2014

As the internet opens up new conversations on a global scale, consumers are feeling increasingly comfortable enmeshed in different cultures and demographics.

The Remix Fashion & Beauty concept champions the cross-fertilisation of design, and takes cues from a new breed of style icon who represents authenticity, accessibility and positive free thinking much akin to the spirit of the Punk movement. A DIY mentality captures Summer 2014 and inspires a "mashed up" aesthetic unconstrained by space, age and time.

Inspired by the many cultures, DIY spirit and unique communities of the urban landscape, creativity and independent thought are leading to new ways of thinking and innovative business paradigms. Remix harnesses the power of rebellion, celebrates a youthful attitude and fuses global style tribes to create a positive, new aesthetic.

Stylus was launched in September 2010 with the aim of challenging how companies approach innovation. After just over two years, their client list comprises more than 300 of the world's leading consumer brands including Reebok, Chanel, Donna Karan, Converse, Anthropologie, Coca-Cola, Godiva, Volkswagen, Victoria's Secret, Fossil, Sephora, Marriott International, Adidas, Toys R Us, Timberland, Conde Nast, and many more.

Their unique methodology connects consumer insight with design, and gives organisations the inspiration and foresight to create innovative products and engaging brand experiences for their customers.

To offer a taster of the kind of research and content that Stylus produce, Marc Worth, CEO and Chairman of Stylus Media Group presented the Spring/Summer 2014 Remix fashion trend report at the recent L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival Business Seminar which is now available for FREE download.

The Remix Industry Trend report explores how consumers feel more comfortable enmeshed in different cultures and demographics. The cross-fertilisation of design is inspired by new style icons who represent authenticity, accessibility and free thinking in the spirit of the punk movement.

A DIY mentality inspires a 'mashed up' aesthetic unrestricted by space, age and time. They outline four themes that will influence womenswear SS 14: Cultural Crossroads, Positive Rebellion, Empowering Creativity and the Democratisation of Fashion.

Within the trend report you will find;

- Research, analysis and inspiration

- Spring/Summer palette broken down into colour harmonies

- Material, print and pattern directions

- Cosmetic styling trends

- Styling inspiration

The complete Stylus REMIX trend report is available for FREE download, visit stylus.com

Key retail innovation themes

via Retail Doctor

Across the globe, retailers are taking courageous steps to harness opportunities created by the dramatic shifts in consumer behaviour. Brian Walker* shares the latest trends from Ebeltoft Group's Retail Innovations 8 study.

Today, retailers around the world are justifiably consumed with trying to make the stores they run more successful. They must literally make constant course corrections in assortments, pricing, merchandising and store operations to keep the business going. In short, they are necessarily - as Oren Harrari so succinctly puts it - in the ‘candle improvement' business.

However, when retailers are consumed by the day-to-day running of a business, it becomes extraordinarily difficult to work on step changes within the business. Historically, the majority of retail innovations came from entrepreneurs who seized upon a market opportunity versus established retailers.

But today, in this landscape, we are happy to report retail innovation is alive and well. From our most admired larger retailers to smaller new entrants, retailers are taking courageous steps to harness opportunities created by the dramatic shifts in consumer behaviour and build their business fitness.

To read more about the study's findings, visit retaildoctor.com.au

Key retail themes/trends

Retail Innovations 8 examined the collected cases and found a number of broader themes emerge. These themes could well become tomorrow's inflection points. Let's take a look at the Innovation Theme findings from the study:

Curated Collections

The heart of successful retailing lies in creating a coherent and compelling assortment for customers. It's the job of any retailer to be an effective merchant, selecting the best products they can to create a coherent offer. So, the notion of curated retailing is certainly not new: what has changed is the consumer's ability to access goods from a much broader (and global) variety of providers.

With the customer able to tap into nearly infinite access to products, this puts even more pressure on retailers to develop a clear and meaningful offer. Simply having a broad selection of products is no longer a differentiator -bringing these products together in unique ways offers retailers an ever-changing way to innovate.

This year, multiple cases in the study focus on innovatively creating assortments - no longer solely based on category, but on a broader lifestyle view of the consumer.

Eco-Friendly-Green is Good

The trend towards Greentailing seems to ebb and flow with the economy. While green was the hot topic just a few years back, it seems to have lost some steam in recent years. Much of this can probably be attributed to the economy. While most consumers still express a preference to behave in an eco-friendly manner, the practical realities of budgets and performance of green products has slowed down the trend.

While it has slowed down, it has certainly not disappeared. This year's innovations reflect the many paths towards green, from environmentally-conscious buildings to product-driven offers that build entire formats around sustainability.

Will the latest green trend be "sustainable?"

Hyper Local

There is real power in truly being local. Having the right products sourced from the communities speaks to powerful macro trends around freshness, sustainability, and supporting the local community. It also speaks compellingly to safety and the consumers' desire to become better educated and more demanding about the products they're consuming.

Retailers, large and small, are focusing on attempts to get local. Really local. In this year's innovations, there are extraordinary efforts underway across multiple countries to highlight local offers.

To read the remaining key themes, visit retaildoctor.com.au

Images via: Cordy House; Retail Design Blog

The months that make fashion in Australia

To say March was a busy month in fashion is an understatement. Besides selling Summer 2013/14 ranges, and of course it is the month Fashion Exposed was held. It seems with so many fashion events on, I have been literally living and breathing all the glories that the fashion industry is.

Lucky to be sitting front row at all events, firstly there was Fashion Palette, then off to Melbourne for L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival (LMFF) Cultural event - The Spirit of the Black Dress Gala night, and also LMFF's much anticipated Penthouse Mouse, which included this years Project Runway Winner, Christina Exie, as well as a bevvy of other designers.

Now as March finishes and April commences we are looking at the big one, with Premiere Trade Event and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia (MBFWA) merging together for the first time to bring the high-end component of fashion together. Bring it on! But first, time to digress.

Phoebes Garland is a Features Writer for EXPOSED Online and co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion. Phoebes Garland was described as a " Power Agent", by Ragtrader magazine. Between the two of them, Phoebes & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a respected leading boutique fashion agency based in Sydney, and they are regularly sought for comment from various media & the fashion industry on business fashion topics and issues. Phoebes Garland was also one of the judges for The Spirit of the Black Dress in 2012 (LMFF).

Fashion Palette launched their Summer 13/14 runway show, with a lavish 5^th Birthday cocktail party the night before their big show, on the rooftop of The Darling Hotel at The Star for VIPs, while the runway show was held at The Australian Technology Park, which included some of Australia's very established industry players participating. Bold prints, geometric designs and colour didn't disappoint. There is nothing classic about Summer 13/14. It's bold.

Participants including Leona Edmiston, Nicola Finetti, Bettina Liano, Akira, Arthur Galan, Saucy Rose, Wild Pony, with next generation Nikki Teljega, Chiquita Searle, Sharnee, and Mossee. Also included was Mackenzie Mode. Newbies, Gemeli Power stood out, while Zofara wowed particularly with a black evening gown. Edmiston's prints were strong and colourful, while Akira always provides his signature look of Japanese feminine elegance. Without a doubt, across all ranges including my own, it's all about prints for Summer 13/14.

Shortly after, I was packing my bags and heading down south of the border to Melbourne. L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival (LMFF) commenced with the cultural program kicking off with The Spirit of the Black Dress Gala night, followed by Penthouse Mouse Runway Show. The Spirit of the Black Dress, an independent, non-for-profit fashion concept founded by Jane Hayes, is in its 5^th year, promotes the work of sustainable Australian fashion. Five high profile fashion industry judges, select the winning dress designs, which are then showcased as an installation to the public as part of LMFF's cultural calendar.

The glorious Janice Breen Burns, (ex Fashion Editor of The Age and now of Voxfrock.com.au fame), picked up and headed off together for the night, and sat together watching the show unfold. The ten finalist winners were Naomi Tettmann and Elke (Tettmann.Doust), Kathryn Beker, Christie Nicole Trowbridge (Christie Nicole), Cordelia Gibbs, divine couple - Marion Liese & Christopher Hamblin (Marion Liese), (who also are past winners of Fashion Exposed Debut in 2009), Renee Bock, Benjamin Ringuet (Ringuet), Shannon Carmody, Jean Cooper (Pink and Grey) and the very lovely, Vivianna Pannell (Basquesse).

A highlight was one of the black dresses, designed by Marion Liese, with a wide hoop skirt and a fitted bodice. Each year the event has held a red carpet gala evening, runway show, fashion film screening and public photographic exhibition and this year will be sadly celebrating its last year due to a lack of funding.

The following evening, in a warehouse in the centre of Melbourne CBD, I was in good company with some of Melbourne's leading fashion folk, (including leading Iconic fashion designer and Fashion Torque host, Jenny Bannister, with the delightful fellow Fashion Torque host and celebrity stylist to the stars, Philip Boon, his ever charming partner in crime, Joshua Koko, and of course last, but not least ex Project Runway judge and ex fashion buyer, Sarah Gale. Stepping into Penthouse Mouse (also part of LMFF's cultural calendar), the rawness of the landscape reminded me of one of the few dance parties I attended in my younger days, and helped to add to a New York style urban underground feel to the shows.

Penthouse Mouse hosts a pop up store and two runway shows to celebrate emerging talent. We attended the second runway show, which included designers including Raggatt, the lovely team due that make up Neo Dia, Keegan, Project Runway's winner, Christina Exie, as well as Jason Hewitt. Standout was emerging label Raggatt, with some seriously talented pieces sashing down the runway with a sophisticated and accomplished look. Sadly due to showings, I had to head back to Sydney, missing most of what LMFF had to offer.

With Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia (MBFWA) fast approaching, and despite all the big fashion names involved, The Innovators is one of the shows, which holds promise. The Innovators show is compiled by, Fashion Design Studio lead by the highly esteemed Nicholas Huxley, Head of the Fashion Design Studio at Sydney TAFE. The Fashion Design Studio is renowned for producing a line of very successful graduates including, Dion Lee, Akira Isowowa, Alex Perry and Nicky Zimmerman. The six students selected to showcase their designs are Inder Dhillon, Leroy Nguyen, Vinh Nguyen, Paul Scott, Elissa McGowan and Ying Yuan. Looking forward to the next lot of rising stars!

Well, that's it for now. It's certainly a very busy March/April in the land of fashion. On that note, I am off to New York for a proper holiday with Mr Garland, the day after MBFWA finishes. But please ensure you pop over to Premiere Fashion Blog, while I cover some of MBFWA during 8-12th April 2013.

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Ginger & Smart on fusing family with fashion

"We are both very proud of the business we have built over the last 10 years.

We're very lucky to have each other for support as we both have young families and this industry can be pretty relentless.

"But we love what we do and feel blessed to be able to have both our business and family at the same time." - Alexandra and Genevieve Smart.

Since 2002, Ginger & Smart has combined family talent to build a strong fashion-lifestyle brand for the spirited woman who loves to look polished yet playful.

Sydney-based sisters Alexandra and Genevieve Smart fused their creative backgrounds in publishing and design to craft a unique product mix that includes their signature fashion line, a leather accessories line, a spa collection and their newly launched diffusion collection, AKIN by GINGER & SMART.

But what distinctly separates the Ginger & Smart brand from the ever-growing fashion pack, is their accreditation with Ethical Clothing Australia, which has been key to forming their loyal fanbase and point of difference in a saturated market.

"Our accreditation with Ethical Clothing Australia is an important part of our brand offering," they said. "Many of our customers care where our product is made and how the production process behind the end garment is managed."

The successful sister act have just opened their fourth boutique in Melbourne's coveted Malvern Road, and in good Australian designer company with Bassike, Willow and Carl Kapp next door.

"We've been wanting to open a store in Melbourne for along time - its been about the right location and timing for our brand," they said. "Hawskburn is such a vibrant retail area for Australian Designers - we feel very much at home.

"We designed the store ourselves - it's a store that allows the handwriting of our brand to really be the hero - our original prints and vibrant colours are able to be the highlight . We have married a modern interior gallery-like space with a touch of modern retro."

On top of their new store, the girls are also planning their Autumn Winter collection for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia co-located with Premiere Trade Event from 8-12 April at Carriageworks, Sydney.

We took five with Genevieve and Alexandra to delve behind their success story and discover their thoughts on the state of Australian retail; G&S key survival tips; marrying online with offline; and casting Australian model sensation, Julia Nobis in their latest campaign.

The constant 'doom and gloom' reports on the state of Australian retail, in particular bricks-and-mortar fashion boutiques, has put a black cloud over the industry. But the opening of your new boutique is a sign that people are still buying. What is your take on the state of retail given from where you see it on the front line?

People are and have been for a long time, very discerning with their purchases. Each garment needs to have a place in their wardrobe and they need to love a piece to invest.

We consider the relevance of each piece as we are designing the collection to make sure our offering is fresh innovative and good quality and somehow gives our customer a reason to move forward with us.

Our strategy in opening a store in Melbourne is to bring the world of Ginger & Smart to one of our biggest retail markets. Our customers have been asking us to open store here for a long time and for us, this timing is right.

What are you key survival tips? How do you stand above the thousands of fashion brands and maintain your point of difference?

The key to survival at this stage in our business evolution is maintaining the key drivers of our brand. It's about making sure our point of view and handwriting is distinct and that we are staying exciting and relevant for our customers; knowing the market and the major changes that are occurring; concentrating on great product, and realising that the devil is in the detail.

You also have an online store, do you think future retail success will be the fusion of both bricks-and-mortar with online? Do you have plans to extend the G&S online offering?

The great opportunity about online shopping is that it is a new dimension in the shopping experience - ease, convenience, accessibility - for our brand it's not a price issue.

We love our customers to come and see us in store and experience great customer service and touch and feel our beautiful fabrics, and we love hat they can purchase from us at 3am - if that is what answers their needs.

What is your advice to emerging fashion designers in this challenging economic climate? Should they move into wholesale or open a flagship first and go vertical?

Any business that has longevity takes a long time to build, and finesse and create to a level of any success. Much longer than any entrepreneur thinks it's going to. An emerging designer needs to have a lot of experience working for other people, a unique handwriting, financial backing and be prepared to work very hard.

You worked with Australian model sensation cum international runway star Julia Nobis on your recent campaign - these images are absolutely divine - why did you choose her for G&S? how does Julia reflect the G&S woman?

Julia Nobis was a perfect muse for this collection. She is fierce and modern as well as polished and beautiful and otherworldly. We love these contradictions in a women.

What's in store for the future?

It's been a very busy start to the beginning of 2013 with the launch of our diffusion collection, AKIN by GINGER & SMART, and our store in Hawksburn.

We will also be showing our new SS 2013 collection at MBFWA in April.

To view more imagery from their current campaign, visit premierefashionblog.com

Westfield's Jack Hanrahan on Global retail trends

Westfield Retail Relations General Manager, Jack Hanrahan has over 30 years of retail experience in Europe and Australia across sectors as diverse as food, fashion and department stores.

Westfield's Retailer Relations program aims to provide a service to retailers to assist in improving their business, development of retail in centres, to develop a relationship with Westfield and encourage excellence in the retail industry generally.

Jack will join the Fashion Exposed Business Seminar line-up to present TRENDS EXPOSED: Global Retail Trends on Tuesday March 12.

We caught up with Jack to discover the latest trends in retail from the online boom to cutting-edge VM concepts and the power of the pop-up.

You have extensive retail experience from Vodafone to Dick Smith and now Westfield, how has the retail landscape changed over your time working in the sector? Can you name the most significant changes that have impacted retail?

The real significant change has to be the technology and the huge emphasis on tech and benefit that brings to retailers, both from consumer side to operational side. Another key area would be supply chain management has improved dramatically. It is something that should be embraced.

Working within bricks & mortar retail primarily, do you see the online boom of e-comm/m-comm as a negative or is there room for both to co-exist harmoniously?

If we look at best of breed which I would argue Burberry is with its Regent Street store, they have really developed a new retail store which is intrinsically linked utilising technology and all aspects both online and in-store. That merger of the uses of online and physical stores will provide a great opportunity for retailers.

Then if you look at the online retailers best of breed it would be John Lewis in London where 20% of their turnover comes from online.

Retailers need to be very focused about what they offer, but what they need to be able to do is to provide access to their band any way the customer wants to deal with their brand.

Whether that's a catalogue, by telephone, online or in the physical store, it needs to be seamless interaction between those different so-called channels.

Knowing your customer is more important than ever. One of the other changes is the need for retailers to understand their customer and customer segments very well.

What are some of the new retail trends / cutting-edge concepts you've come across internationally that have enhanced customer engagement and brought them back in-store?

I think that it's a bit back-to-the-future. What I have seen is the use of visual merchandising and emphasis that is placing now in the marketplace. I see that growing certainly overseas as an important tool for retailers.

The other is employees of retail and the importance that is placing on retailers. That emphasis has grown quite dramatically. We see a lot of training, but it is a lot more directed training that is taking place overseas, to be fair there's only a few major players now that are here in Australia that do a great job in training their staff, it's an industry wide need, to invest in our people.

The new technology can be a useful tool for sales people. Think about your customers now who search online to find out information, so it's also important that your sales persons know about the product and has access to same information the customer has.

Some of the ways in which retailers have innovated their in-store offer is via specialty retail including the rise of the PopUp store - do you predict more of this collaborative retail to drive customers in-store? why do you think this is so popular?

I think this has been going on all the time, we have now just given it a name and identified it but the idea of having physical presence in a particular place has always been around, it's just utlised in different ways.

Manufacturers are looking at providing an opportunity for physical stores to show off a wide range of merchandise for a limited time, in particular at specific events like Christmas or Easter, and it's becoming a lot more sophisticated.

Pop-ups can provide a great wow and it's also a good way to meet your consumer in the marketplace.

We have a style of a pop up in our Sydney centre here which is an amalgam of 12 designers that change on a regular basis on the lower ground floor in Westfield Sydney. That has been happening ever since we opened up and a number of designers go through there.

The company 100 squared organises and finds designers, they rent the space and move the designers around to keep it fresh. The designers have an opportunity to check out how well their product is received.

The concept of an enticing shop window display is a tried and tested technique, is this traditional visual merchandising style still valid? How has it evolved to meet the expectations of today's consumer? What are some of the new techniques Westfield has used?

I see it more as a creative issue. I have seen wonderful creators and examples of visual merchandising overseas which is very low cost and I think that it's not a money issue, it's a matter of creativity, knowing your customer and providing a platform to attract your customers.

Whether that be via a window display or store display, but if you look there are some great examples to inspire you.

Just take the Victor Churchill butcher in Woollahra, Sydney. He's one of the best butchers in the world. This visual merchandising spans across all industries and is vital in creating a fantastically stimulating environment inside and creating a reason for being there, to answer the 'why would I go in-store?'.

Just remember, 95% of people still transact in store. I know it is diminishing but there is still a lot of business that goes on in-store. I'm not hiding the fact that online is growing at a fantastic rate, but nevertheless there is still a lot of trade that goes on in physical stores, so make it a good experience.

BOOK NOW for TRENDS EXPOSED: Global Retail Trends

Join Westfield Retailer Relations, Jack Hanrahan and discover the latest trends in retail from enticing shop windows, unique installations and inspiring visual merchandising techniques from an international perspective.

For more information or to register, visit fashionexposed.com

BUSINESS EXPOSED: Le Black Book Case Study

Le Black Book has grown into a highly successful online business that caters to women all over the world. But how did a relatively unknown e-store evolve into a thriving international e-commerce site and business?

Le Black Book director, Kath Purkis said the site was initially a designer online shopping experience purely stocking Australian designers to an international customer following. And it had traction from day one.

"I worked extremely hard to secure pre-launch PR & build a database ahead of launch," she said.

"When the GFC happened I saw a decline in the amount of money consumers were spending however website traffic was still growing month by month. I decided I had to introduce middle market price point items to ensure women could still shop at Le Black Book within their budget."

At the time, very few Australian designers produced any styles under the $200 price mark so it was very clear to Kath that she needed to move towards producing her own styles to cater to customer needs.

Le Black Book is now focused on fashion and accessories that appeal to all demographics, are on trend and ahead of the pack. It has international customers that shop the on-trend styles and are happy to pay international shipping to get the latest and the greatest trend piece.

We took five with Kath and discovered owning an online store is just as tough as bricks-and-mortar or any business, and how sell-through reports and data analysis have been key to Le Black Book's retail success.

There has been an explosion of bricks & mortar retailers launching their stores online, but is it really that simple? What is the number one advice you would give retailers heading into e-tail?

Heading into e-tail is the same with any business, you must know your customer! If you know your customer and know their tastes you are more likely to succeed than if you are faking it. Bricks & mortar retailers need to understand the e-commerce market, the major players, the competitive advantages by being onmi-channel and online marketing strategies that will resonate with their consumers.

In a recent interview, you mentioned regular data analysis and sell-through reports were key to your success? How? Can you explain this in more detail?

It's simple, look at what's working and go with it. If you regularly identify your best sellers, you can capitalise off this knowledge and focus you online marketing into opportunities that work and convert well.

Is it possible to succeed in a highly competitive and saturated e-commerce market? How?

Yes! If you are original, you have a clear online strategy, you know your customer and you innovate, you are likely to take market share from the larger players. Just because a competitor splashes advertising over buses and TV doesn't equal a profitable business. Do what you do best and focus on a great customer experience.

Has social media been key to your online retail model? How do you use these channels? and do you see direct sales from Facebook and twitter?

If you use social media effectively you can build a strong consumer following that will be your loyal customer base. I have had some big wins with social media and believe it really comes down to knowing your customer and what they want. There's a fine line between promoting a product or trend and spamming your fans - keep it to a moderate level.

Your recently started another venture called Her Fashion Box - can you explain this? And how it fits into Le Black Book?

My latest start-up Her Fashion Box is taken from my five years' experience knowing what women want and turning it into a monthly fashion experience and subscription business model.

Her Fashion Box offers women a fashion accessory tailored to their style profile along with premium beauty samples and a lifestyle product. Her Fashion Box is essentially Christmas every month!

What's in store for the future? In your opinion, do you see both bricks & mortar and e-comm/m-comm working harmoniously to serve the customer together?

I see online retail continuing to grow locally and look forward to seeing new players enter the market. If old school bricks and mortar retailers get savvy and are open to younger employees with great ideas being heard then they will thrive. With anything in life, we must adapt and be open to change.

Being an online only store, how do you overcome the in-store touch and feel experience? Do you offer a good returns policy?

You work towards the best online experience possible, engage with your customers and give them what they want.

We do, we have had very few returns in 5 years and we feel it's down to keeping customers happy.

What do you love most about your job and working as an online entrepreneur? Why do you love the online environment?

I am passionate about what I do and believe I have created my dream job. It takes guts and risks to create something from scratch but the rewards are well worth it. In my life at the moment, I'm wearing 10 hats and no two days are ever the same. I love online as there is always something fresh, innovative and entertaining to work with.

BOOK NOW for BUSINESS EXPOSED: CASE STUDY - Le Black Book & Her Fashion Box

Online retailing is now a mainstream sales channel with new technology changing daily to meet the needs of the competitive consumer.

Discover how online entrepreneur, Kath Purkis of Le Black Book & Her Fashion Box used regular data analysis and sell-through reports to continually adapt and change her e-tail model to exceed consumer expectations and flourish in a highly competitive market

leblackbook.com.au & herfashionbox.com

Why are we dangling, but not delivering to customers?

What is one of the basic rule of thumb in retailing? Don't dangle something in front of customers if you don't have it there to sell immediately. So why has this been forgotten of late? Lately, I have noted plenty of this occurring, either in visual merchandising, in fashion shows and also in large chain stores, and really they should frankly know better. Is there anything more frustrating for retail staff on the floor and more importantly customers to dangle something they can't have?

Surely we are all in the business to sell fashion? One particular large overseas chain store releases their window displays a month before the garments come in. When speaking to the poor store manager about this, he was lamenting his frustration about the amount of times customers came into store wishing to purchase garments that are simply not in store for another month. And apparently, there is no quick fix with all visual merchandising implemented through the head office overseas, and with standardised worldwide systems in place.

When a certain department store decided to launch their autumn/winter collection via live streaming, they definitely had many a fashionista glued to their computers online watching it. I couldn't help but feel that there was a seriously lost opportunity of sales missing out on capturing the moment of the show, the hype, vibe and frenzy of launching a new season collection show for the first time live. Never underestimate capturing the moment to drive sales. Every garment was streaming on the right hand side of your screen that was walking down the runway and you could save the garments in your "favourites", but when directed to their online site it said " In selected stores only in February". . . . umm, I am still trying to figure out why they couldn't even pre-sell the garments should they not have all deliveries in yet, like overseas department stores do? Surely in this soft retailing climate we need every bit of sales we can get? Did they forget all the money they invested into their online store?

While very old news now, the site that had much media hype, which crashed within minutes of the count down to launching, took the cake. They secured many a major etailers and retailers paying to come on board for the night as part of this big sale frenzy. It certainly showed up the leading experienced etailers who could handle the traffic and the not so experienced ones.

Subsequently the ones who managed to secure good sales on the night as a result of being able to handle the traffic, such as leading fashion e-tailers "Birdsnest" and "The Iconic" - thought in advance and were prepared and able to handle the traffic comfortably. However even another department store struggled with the traffic and the main launching site crashed even before the count down launch. While it seems it did very well collecting a database of 'potential' customers, to use no doubt as a future sales tool, I hate to think of the loss of sales on the night for other online operators unable to take the traffic. Do underestimate carpe diem!

With these major chain stores and department stores dangling but not delivering. Could this be a win for the independents to learn where the majors are going wrong in this challenging retailing climate?

Email me: info@garlands.com.au

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American women's shopping influenced heavily by fashion trends, survey finds

Remember the famous "Devil Wears Prada" scene where Miranda Priestly schools Andy in the importance of fashion? "OK, I see. You think this has nothing to do with you..." Miranda intones as her assistant quakes in her cerulean sweater.

A new study is proving Miranda Priestly right: 59 percent of American women admit to seeking fashionable, trendy items when shopping. Moreover, 55 percent of American female shoppers admit that they've bought clothes they didn't even like purely because they were trendy.

Of those shoppers, 67 percent say they never actually wore the items in question. (We're guessing peplums, wedge sneakers and cropped tops might have been involved.)

The new survey of 2,825 adult women in the U.S., done by CouponCodes4u.com, shows the heavy influence of fashion trends on what real women buy. 42 percent of the women polled by CouponCodes4u.com said that they felt "pressured" to wear fashionable clothes, and 39 percent of those women blamed that pressure on the media.

Just an unscientific survey of today's media would show why. Every day there seems to be another fashion-related TV show, movie, book or blog hitting the airwaves, not to mention all the fashion coverage done by non-style news outlets. (Did anyone notice CNN's heavy coverage of Michelle Obama's Inauguration Day outfit?)

Read more of this article at huffingtonpost.com

BOOK NOW for WGSN TRENDS EXPOSED: Spring Summer - 2013

Discover the key trends for Spring Summer 2013 for colours, fabrics and silhouettes that will influence the Australian fashion industry.

For more information or to book for this FREE seminar, visit fashionexposed.com

What does 2013 hold for the Australian fashion industry?

The elusive question, I do get asked. What exactly does 2013 hold for sales, opportunities and the Australian fashion industry? After reading several reports including the IBIS, WGSN, and digesting the ever important feedback from Australian buyers and manufacturers and other fashion agents, here are some the key components, which will make up sales, opportunities and key survival tips for 2013 for the Australian fashion industry.

1) The 50+ market continues to be a strong category for growth, a very untouched market for the right product and designed brand. While on the side, the Gen Y market still is showing growth, with high fashion and fast fashion trend orientated garments ideally priced particularly under the $129 RRP mark to really enable some volume of sales.

2) The in store experience is still vital. Customers will always want the human element, but the retailer has to think about the whole retail experience from the consumer level up, not the retailer down. The customer is at the centre driving the service model. Mobile, click and collect and digital e-commerce will still remain strong and retailers need to embrace this innovation. Retailers will also need to think about ways to engage and help the customer purchase.

3) The consumer is still for the most part cautious about spending. Price still remains key for buyers and consumers. However do not confuse it about being cheap, but offering value for money for the consumer. The customer needs to walk into the store and say "I will buy it' without thinking about it. The moment you have a customer saying 'I will think about a purchase", means they are weighing up the value. The volume level for sales still remains under the $99.00 mark to enable that consumer to purchase easily. While other price points under the $200 RRP mark still have remained strong for the last couple of years and continue to be strong.

4) With the overseas chain stores arriving in abundance and providing such strong visual vertical branded 'stories' to entice consumers, it is becoming more vital than ever for independent retailers to provide strong visual merchandising in their stores, while providing a clear representation of each brand, not bits and pieces of brands. The buyer who is buying a bit of each brand illustrates they simply don't know their customer and will never really gauge where the sales are coming from their labels.

5) Fast fashion is still on the cards and something the industry wants. Yet the industry for the most part is still sticking to the traditional seasonal buys. For this to be truly effective in terms of sales, the entire fashion industry needs to come together on this and it would require the major players needing to initiate this for the entire industry to follow suit in abundance.

6) On the subject of trends, the global fashion trends for summer 13 are; colour still remains strong and patterns are a major feature. Stripes, dots, coloured pants, and florals, while feminine features, neutral tones will also be key. Texture wise, lace cut out, embroidery anglaise, and the classic ageless shift dress is making a strong come back.

7) In terms of the economic climate, US and European economies are in gradual recovery and China continues to boom. In terms of the Australian economy our GDP has risen from 3% to 4%. On a positive note, we have a AAA stable -rating; Top 10 best credit rating in the world. Consumption growth in line with income growth is at + 2% - +3%. What does this mean in real terms? Perhaps, a slight improvement and is the best way to see it, it's improving not getting any worse.

8) Without a doubt, the Internet has provided a level playing field for consumers to shop price. To be successful for exporting and importing, it has become crucial for distributors and fashion labels to ensure a worldwide pricing strategy so it's an even playing field for all retailers. Another factor to take into consideration is many retailers are needing and looking for at least 150% to 200% mark up to cover the escalating costs associated with higher rents and outgoings. The challenge/opportunities are for fashion labels to come up with fashion labels offering this to retailers, while offering exceptional value for money for the consumer.

9) Branding is crucial for fashion labels in this economy, and it can have a high impact on the consumers perception of value for money. Traditionally strong brands can always carry a higher price point and still remains so. Fashion labels therefore must innovate with clever marketing techniques to ensure their label is considered a brand and not just another label. The need for marketing is a must in this soft retail economy to drive sales.

10) The key success factors and challenges in retail, is the ability to control stock on hand, superior financial and debt management, clear market position, production of clothes favoured by the market, attractive product presentation and proximity to key markets.

11) Summer wholesale ranges for the most part, are still lacking value for money, by comparison to the strong growth of sales in winter ranges. Knitwear continues to thrive in winter with a strong opportunity for more fashion orientated younger knitwear labels at an affordable price point of under $150.00 RRP and under with good quality yarns.

12) Womenswear still remains a much stronger category than menswear, with women still spending during economic uncertainty, while research has shown men tend to hold off. The lack of wholesale menswear accounts in Australia is also a factor, which inhibits wholesale growth for menswear; vertical operators dominate this market without a doubt.

13) The key success factors/challenges in a wholesale business are: the ability to alter goods and services in favour of market conditions, (value for money), superior financial management and debt management, ability to control stock on hand, having contacts within key markets, technical knowledge of product, having an extensive distribution and collection network, as well as provision of after sales service.

14) Timely deliveries are also a key factor in driving sales and especially for repeat sales. Early and staggered deliveries and more importantly staggered invoicing is a must for retailers in this economic climate and for fashion labels wanting to drive extra sales.

15) Innovation and adaptation to changing market conditions is crucial in this economic climate. It's easy to resist change, but the true survivors will be the ones that innovate and adapt, and if you don't, you will just perish.

16) Social media is still not to be underestimated in building a brand and also for driving sales. The mature fashion sector is still staggeringly behind on use of technology to drive sales.

17) There is now a major difference between a wholesale and vertical label. 20 years ago this wasn't so. The higher end market is now very contained and limited. With escalating costs, the retailer needs a higher margin and a lower RRP to get the volume for sales. The cheaper chain stores are driving prices down and its affect on the wholesale market has made wholesaling significantly price pointed.

What other opportunities do you think there are in 2013?

* Sources: IBISWorld industry reports; Clothing retailing in Australia & IbisWorld Clothing Wholesaling in Australia, WGSN Global retail trends, WGSN Global Fashion Trends.

Email me: info@garlands.com.au

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Engaged staff sell more!

When it comes to retail, store staff are a vital component to delivering new types of value by matching the customer problem with the solution and helping to promote the whole brand experience. The more engaged your staff are with their work, the more effectively they will represent your brand.

Marguerite Bell is the Business Fitness Specialist for the Retail Doctor Group. Through diagnostic auditing, training and business fitness action plans, Marguerite builds retail business fitness for retailers who need it most. Marguerite has worked in the retail industry for over 25 years at the most influential and senior levels. Her experience covers a broad spectrum of retail capabilities at executive level including: retail strategy; HR; training, mentoring and development; IT roll-out programs; OH&S; retail policy and procedure development; visual merchandising and store fit out; retail marketing and loyalty program development and implementation.

'Business fitness training' for effective people

Effective people at the coalface are those who are engaged with your retail business, share the same values and receive product training that makes them the expert in every respect. They also have trust in the management and systems that sit behind the shop floor.

As part of our Effective People program, we educate about the importance of communication throughout your retail operation and the need for it to be multi-directional (both bottom to top and top to bottom). The store staff are closest to the customers and provide valuable information relating to the everyday operation of the business as well as practical feedback on new initiatives prior to implementation. Ultimately collaboration also facilitates more effective long term outcomes for the business as store staff are aware and aligned to the overall business goals.

Investment in training your staff on the shop floor will give your team the right tools for the job. This includes not only the physical tools but the knowledge, experience, confidence and authority to do their job well. Every new team member on your shop floor should be taken through a proper induction program that introduces them not only to the selling skills and day-to-day running of the business, but also to the culture and history of the business so that your team are aligned to your brand from day one. As store staff become more immersed in the business, more extensive programs and refresher selling skills courses will help build on their existing skills.

A simple routine of daily start up meetings, supplier training sessions, in-house training and coaching on product features and benefits will help to keep staff up to date with the business goals of the day as well as new products, campaigns and initiatives. It is also vital that the overall business goals are reinforced to the store staff so they understand the business mission and the part they are playing to achieve this.

Most importantly, never underestimate the influence of product knowledge to ensure your people are ready to provide those important customer solutions. Having excellent product knowledge helps instill a sense of self-confidence, which is essential to a successful salespersons' repertoire. Let your sales staff experience the products themselves and test their knowledge frequently on every aspect so they understand not just the product, but also the all important after sales service that may be required.

Tips to engaging and retaining a team

According to author Leigh Branham, 88% of employees leave for reasons related to the job, the culture, the manager or the work environment and not just the money as is commonly believed. Retaining your best employees not only has positive financial implications for your business it will also ensure customer satisfaction; increased product sales; satisfied co-workers and reporting staff; effective succession planning as well as a deeply imbedded organisational knowledge.

Employee retention is critical to the long term health of your business and here are a few of Retail Doctor Group's management rules of retention:

1. Celebrate Success. Tell your team what they're doing right, not what they're doing wrong. Reward your staff for high achievement with prizes for sales, average sale, items per sale and conversion rates.

2. Communicate. Make it clear that you have an 'open door' policy and welcome your team to come to you with any problems or concerns.

3. Lead by example. We see CEO's like Bernie Brookes visiting stores and speaking to customers. How can you expect others to follow your rules, if you don't follow them yourself?

4. Be positive. The positivity of your team will be felt by your customers and generate results!

5. Empower them. Staff who are given responsibility will step up to the mark. Keep them trained and informed to empower them to make decisions on the shop floor.

6. Promote continuous improvement. Staff training should be an ongoing process linked to individual and team KPI's and measured by sales results. This training should be continually measured by processes such as customer feedback and mystery shopping audits. Coaching your staff is the key to improvement. Help them to grow with your business and lift the cycle of continual improvement.

7. Have fun!

I look forward to meeting you at Fashion Exposed where I will be presenting a free business seminar. In this session, we will delve a little further into these topics so I encourage you to come along.

In the meantime, I welcome you to contact me for more information.

BOOK NOW for BUSINESS EXPOSED: Engaged Staff Sell More

A must-attend sales session addressing how to build a great sales force, establish goals, train a team and develop effective selling techniques.

retaildoctor.com.au

For more information or to book for this FREE seminar, visit fashionexposed.com

DIGITAL EXPOSED: Connect with your customer

Social media isn't a new thing in fashion retail, but it's so much more than just opening a Facebook page.

So how can retailers build a powerful audience that not only engage with the daily posts but become fans of their brand?

"Social Media is so much more than a Facebook fan page," says Tim Krotiris of Social Media Servants. "In fact this is the bare minimum a brand can do and it will ultimately prove to be almost useless if not properly managed, utilized and grown.

"Social media is the most honest reflection of how well a brand knows, understands and cares about their customers. So when it isn't working as planned, we have people come to ask for advice. The most common questions are:

"How does my brand get people to care about what we do?"

"How do I get people to engage with my business?"

"How do I get people to share, promote and ultimately remain/become a loyal customer?"

The answer does not lie in the technical use of social media platforms but in your ability to understand your target market. Ultimately, you must ask yourself the confronting question "how well do I actually know my customer?"

The frightening truth is this: if you know your customer, you wouldn't need to ask this question.

So, lets look at some questions you should ask yourself on the way to turning your brand into a social media powerhouse.

1. What content can I deliver to my customers consistently that they will be interested in?

2. What Social Media platforms do my customers use to find this content and search out my brand.

When you can answer these questions well, your brand is on its way to becoming an authority and interest your community. The type of brand your customers will come back to time and time again.

Tim will be a key speaker at the next Fashion Exposed Sydney. We took five with him to chat further on the social media and fashion retail fusion.

What are some in-store tips in which retailers can invite their customers to join their social media channels? Is there a way of asking without being pushy?

The biggest mistake we witness with in-store retailers is they see Social Media as a separate part of their communication strategy. What they are failing to realize is that it is now central component of this strategy.

In-store retailers have an incredible opportunity, ability and strategic advantage over online retailers; they can make enormous strides in Social Media by leveraging their actual physical presence, this is a huge advantage.

Some basic tips:

1. Create a compelling reason for your customers to connect with you via your Social Media channels

a. Ie: a Competition, special or information that is released in-store first. Ie: New season stock, specials etc

2. Promote your Social Media channels in-store. Make sure your customers actually know about it.

a. POS signage

b. Staff trained to speak intelligently about why customers should connect

c. Evidence your brand in invested in Social Media. You have to give a sh*t about it; its not "that thing we do because everyone else does it"

3. Make it fun:

a. You are allowed to have fun with Social Media! So enjoy it and give customers a reason to connect! Allow them to be involved, post pictures, give feedback and be part of your brand.

There are hundreds of different ways to do this. You will only be seen as pushy if you ask customers to join your social media channels and in reality your brand doesn't make your channels worth being part of.

What does engagement via social media look like? What does it mean?

Engagement is a metric used to measure the effectiveness of Social Media platforms. Facebook actually uses a metric called "engagement" to measure how your community is growing and responding to your content.

This is statistically represented and reflects the number of times your community (fans) interact with your brand, comment, share and consume your content.

Practically, good engagement from your community feels like you have a great friend that wants to help you build your brand everyday. The community is honest, makes suggestions, pulls you up with mistakes and supports your initiatives. They want you and your brand to succeed and in return they want to feel part of it.

Great brands develop rabid communities of followers who believe in what the brand is doing. Your job is to understand that you must be honest, make them feel connected and importantly, feel listened too!

If you can do this, you will grow an army of people who wish to support the brand. As soon as brands forget this or stop showing the love and respect to their community, they will pay the price. Click.......and the customer is gone.

What is an example of good content on Facebook? What are the kinds of posts that keep fans interested?

The best content in the world is the content that your community, customers and fans want to see. Period.

Until you really understand your customers and community, you will never be able to produce good content or keep them interested.

When you post content, you want the community to see it and say to themselves "that is interesting." What you don't want them to think is "so what" or "who cares."

As a brand, remember: It's not always about you. Don't treat your community as a billboard; you are one click away from losing them forever.

How powerful is the combination of facebook, twitter, instagram and pinterest accounts? Should you invest in opening accounts for all of these? Or concentrate on a couple? How do you know which ones?

All these platforms are significant, important and have a purpose. Each one of them provides a new opportunity to attract, retain and build loyalty with you customers. If you decide to pick and choose, ultimately you and your brand are going to pay the price.

Every gap you leave open (ie: every platform you're not on) means that people like us who are being engaged by your competitors, are given the opportunity to reach your customers, engage them and eventually take them from you. This is occurring every minute of every day and you are in a fight for their attention, whether you like it or not.

So don't leave the front door open for your competitors to attract your customers and community. Invest in all platforms, engage your community and become a leader in your market segment.

What is one of the common mistakes you see with retailers on social media? How do you avoid it?

The most common mistake (and biggest) we see from retailers is to view their Social Media platforms as just another sales tool. Social Media is not green light for your brand to spam the community with advertising. Poor brands make all their content sales based, pictures of their product and information about themselves.

Retailers need to understand that if they want to make money from Social Media, they need to engage their community and make them feel connected to their brand. It's a relationship you are building, not a database. Don't think you have the right to spam them with your product and sales constantly.

Listen to them, nurture them, lead them and engage them. When you do that, you will understand the power and profitability of Social Media. If you don't, you will see just how fast you can lose them.

3......2......1.....click........gone.

BOOK NOW for DIGITAL EXPOSED and connect with your customer

Join Tim Krotiris from Social Media Servants and learn about the power of social media and the ways in which you can connect with your customer using the facebook, blogs, instagram, twitter and pinterest platforms.

For more information or to book, visit fashionexposed.com

VM EXPOSED: Attract, Engage & Motivate Sales

The face of Australian retail is changing. In fact, it's not just us. It's a global retail phenomenon. The integration of online, both e-comm and m-comm with shoppers getting social, there's so much more to being a retailer today than ever before.

But one traditional, tried and tested tool is visual merchandising. In this digital age, VM is being called upon to re-invigorate the in-store space and attract the online consumer back to bricks-and-mortar.

No longer just a simple window display, VM is a completely physical and personal experience and one that's super difficult to replicate online. It's the one place consumers can touch, feel, and see the merchandise up close. And it doesn't need to cost the earth either. Exciting VM is possible on a budget.

Megan Tregilgas crafts in-store `experiences' for the modern retailer under Visual Metier. She creates inventive and eye catching windows for some of Australia's most prominent retailers.

We are thrilled to announce Megan as a key speaker at the Fashion Exposed Business Seminar for the March Sydney event. Megan will share her personal VM insights and tips that are sure to entice your customers and guests during all seasons and occasions.

We had a quick chat with her on why VM is so crucial; what are the key principles of good VM design; and simple tips and tricks we can implement in-store now.

With the influx of online stores in the fashion retail market, there seems to be a renewed push for VM in-store? Why is VM so important?

VM is so important as it is one of the first opportunities for the stores to engage and inspire the customer. Indeed online stores are challenging our traditional retail marketplace. What they cannot do however is compete in a tactile way - giving customers the opportunity to engage by touch and feel. Bricks and mortar stores can use VM to their best advantage by enticing the customer inside. Once inside the store, clever merchandising can increase sales in many ways such as using displays to show how garments can go together, add ons with accessories etc. The key is to seduce the customer into touching; this stimulates a sense that online shopping will never be able to do. A customer who touches the product is already ½ way to purchasing.

Visual Merchandising has always been major component of the retail process. Something retailers used to do in their daily routine. Unfortunately it seems a lot of major retailers have forgotten this trusted way to market their stores. Retail stores need to get back to basics - clean well laid out stores, clear signage and pleasant looking displays all act as silent salespeople. Not only is it effective, but it's cheap!

It's very simple: present your merchandise in a pleasing way and customers will be more tempted to spend. Customers get frustrated if clothes are shoved on racks and tangled. They are more likely to linger and look if they feel comfortable. It is also one of the most cost-effective ways to represent your brand. Retailers spend a lot of money on advertising so the windows and store layouts need to reflect the marketing campaign.

What are the key principles to good VM design?

Good VM design is about encapsulating the branding and enticing the customer. It doesn't matter if you are a small boutique or a large chain store your business is to sell to the customer whilst maintaining a competitive edge and your visual merchandising can help you achieve this.

It starts with a clean window that is balanced and has a focal point. You don't necessarily need props and or to spend a lot of money - you can just use what you have in store and put together a strong story that your customer can relate to. The window is your starting point and it must entice the customer inside.

In-store merchandising needs to be customer friendly, tidy and relaxing to the eye. A customer must be able to feel like they are welcome inside and want to move into the store and cover the entire space. Products should be displayed to their best advantage. Group your products to make shopping easy for your customer.

For example if you are a fashion store, break the store up into smaller areas i.e. casual areas, everyday work area and the formal area, or work with within storeys. Your entire store concept must be built around your target customers. You can have the most amazing store, but if it isn't consistent with what your customers desire and expect, then the effect will be lost.

Always have clear displays in store so customers can see the stock. Displays need to be well accessorised and it's good to make them a little 'over the top' for impact. Change these displays regularly.

Good Visual Merchandising will always help in getting your customers to buy more.

Your background is in retail with a career that includes Regional Manager for Sunglass Hut and Just Jeans as well as various roles from Gucci to Table Eight and Jurlique. How has this retail experienced influenced and enhanced your VM skills?

Being a Visual Merchandiser with retail skills is very important as it doesn't matter how creative you are if you don't understand the end results which is to increase sales, you won't be successful.

I have experienced the impact of a strong window and the right product at the front of the store. I have literally seen products fly out the store due to a window and or the rack out the front.

We once did a window for Levi's and it increased their sales for that month by 70%. The connection between good visual merchandising and an increase in sales is what fascinates me the most.

Why did you move into VM full time and create your own business - Visual Metier?

I saw there was a need for a Visual Merchandising business that actually had a full grasp of retail. The importance of having a full comprehension of customer service, sales, shrinkage as well as a beautiful window and a well laid out store is important. I rarely saw this harmony particularly between the VM's, the store managers and the customers.

What are some of the common mistakes you see in fashion retail?

Clothes shoved on racks and so full it's a struggle to shop, bad displays or no displays, clothes all mixed together and not grouped into sections to make shopping easy. Window displays with little effort, that don't entice you into the store. Stores that do not place the importance of Visual Merchandising as a major component of the retail mix.

Is it possible to create exciting VM design on a tight budget?

Absolutely! This is often my brief from my clients. Providing visually stunning displays in a cost effective way is the foundation of my business.

I have set up a shop with all its fixtures for $500 by sourcing second hand furniture and painting it. A lot of displays that we do are on a restricted budget. Simple props from Ikea always work a treat! For rises I have used boxes and wrap them in gorgeous wrapping paper. It's about being resourceful.

What are some of the tips and tricks visitors will walk away with when they attend your Fashion Exposed business seminar?

We will take a look at the art of visual merchandising, get back to basics and discover how to attract, engage and motivate your customer to increase sales.

I will present key principles of VM, share common mistakes and how to execute stimulating VM displays on a tight budget.

BOOK NOW for VM EXPOSED - Attract, Engage & Motivate Sales

Re-discover the art of visual merchandising and discover how to attract, engage and motivate your customer to maximise sales.

Megan Tregilgas of Visual Metier will present the key principles of VM, share common mistakes and how to execute stimulating VM displays on a tight budget, based on her own retail background.

For more information or to book for this FREE seminar, visit fashionexposed.com

farfetch.com: bridging the gap for bricks and mortar to launch globally

Within the mass influx of overseas etailers popping up and targeting our shores, there is one etailer, which is making a significant difference to small business. Essentially, this is a global player with a strong point of difference. With most bricks and mortar retailers lamenting about the online surge taking away from their business, I had the pleasure to have a meeting with one particular etailer late last year, who is bridging the gap between independent bricks and mortar retailers and helping them launch online to a very global scale.

Farfetch.com is a revolutionary global luxury etailer, which addresses the challenges in the hugely competitive online environment, independent retailers face. The concept is the brainchild of serial fashion entrepreneur José Neves, founder of the b store boutique on London's Kingly Street; farfetch.com is the result of a fusion of knowledge gained in both the fashion and digital industries.

Phoebes Garland is a Features Writer for EXPOSED Online and co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion. Phoebes Garland was described as a " Power Agent", by Ragtrader magazine. Between the two of them, Phoebes & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a respected leading boutique fashion agency based in Sydney, and they are regularly sought for comment from various media & the fashion industry on business fashion topics and issues. Phoebes Garland was also one of the judges for The Spirit of the Black Dress in 2012 (LMFF).

The site reaches 3.5 million + monthly visitors from over 200 countries, with a fast growing database of customers, currently 120,000 in 150 countries. At the moment there are 475,000 newsletter subscribers, 400,000 Facebook fans, 15,000 Twitter followers, 5,000 Instagram followers, and 3,000 Pinterest followers. At present the site has 250 boutiques in 15 countries as well as it offers a unique service with over 200 highly qualified and multi-lingual staff in 4 offices in London, Portugal. Los Angeles and Sao Paulo. I had the pleasure of sitting down with Rachel Waller from farfetch.com while she was in Australia, to discuss farfetch.com and discuss the Australian market.

What is Farfetch.com and how does it work?
farfetch.com is an online marketplace that forms the hub of a global fashion community that unites independent boutiques from around the world with fashion lovers. All products on farfetch are bought & owned by independent boutiques, which means we retain their very unique takes on fashion.

What type of customer shops on Farfetch.com and how many shoppers do you have visiting the site regularly?
Customers from over 100 countries currently shop on farfetch, across a broad range of designer price points in our categories luxe, lab & contemporary.

Has it been successful for boutiques overseas?
Hugely, we facilitate boutiques to reach customers around the world, and support them with marketing, PR, logistics, etc.

What sort of marketing activities will Farfetch.com be doing globally?
We will continue to expand our digital & offline marketing activities into 2013. We have always had a strong focus on digital & social, but we will be actively working on brand awareness in 2013.

You currently have a few Australian designers on board will you be looking at Australian retailers and labels in the near future?
We don't currently have any direct relationships with designers, all our labels are selected and edited by our partner boutiques, and so we have no immediate plans to onboard any Australian designers directly. However, that's not to say we won't have any new ones, but these will be selected independently by our boutiques. We are currently focused on consolidating our US & European boutique base.

What has the feedback been from your current independent retailers who are on the site? How much has sales grown for them through partnering with Farfetch.?
We can't currently release specific numbers by boutiques, as this varies hugely depending on boutique size and how long they have been live on farfetch, but feedback from our partners has been extremely positive.

Rachel, you recently came out to Australia, and met with several leading fashion industry players out here including myself to talk about the Australian market. What parts did you find the Australian market different to the European market?
The market is absolutely fascinating and seems to be at a pivotal point in terms of consumer demands. European designers are very expensive and out of season for the market, Australia appears to have developed an impressive & creative array of local designers.

To visit farfetch go to: farfetch.com

Email me: info@garlands.com.au

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WGSN Close to season trends Spring / Summer 13 - Print & Pattern report

With the Fall 2013 collections kicking off in New York next month, we decided to take a look at some of the trends for Spring Summer 13.

There is a huge focus on print and pattern, in fact, given the WGSN close to season trend report, it's almost a case of anything goes. From geometric lines to horizontal and vertical stripes, dots, florals and even tie dye, it's all good.

For more WGSN spring summer 13 trends, head to the blog, visit fashionexposedblog.com

Bold Stripes

Chequerboard accessories

Spots

Florals

Floral intarsias

Oriental florals

Mens florals

Degrade

Engineered tie-dye

Pick & Mix

Pictorial

Scarf prints

For more trend information, visit wgsn.com

How to play against the retail big guys

Hollister, Topshop, Costco, Williams-Sonoma, River Island, and Zara share one common characteristic and that is that they are fit retailers aggressively embarking on international expansion. Australia is an attractive destination.

So the issue for me is not globalisation of retail per se, this is as inevitable as night follows day. The world gets smaller by the minute with transglobal flights getting shorter, the apex of global power shifting rapidly, technologies changing the very core of our existence and challenging the very pretext of who we are and what our communities even look like.

These retailers opening on our shores are already experiencing remarkable opening sales as the appetite for their brand and offer is motivating even the most cautious shopper.

The issue for retailers is how to compete in a differentiated manner, creating an even fitter business in the process. I am often asked how our Australian retailers can compete and win back their share of business from overseas competitors.

Each business is unique. However, here are some of the guiding fitness principles:

Create a strategy for your business that provides an ultimate exit or at least regular goals to progress towards.
Create a branded offer that has brand attributes, known for being unique and very strong at something.
Try not to carry too broad a range relative to your marketplace offer - the dangers of being all things, as a speciality retailer, are fairly self-evident.
Consider what you are truly good at - look at your competitors closely and the answers will be there.
Create a differentiated story - typically around service, product range, heritage or speed of supply.
Create a database - the world is moving to micro marketing and a database with regular offers and updates is crucial to building loyalty.

To read more of the fitness principles, visit retaildoctor.com.au

5 mins with Australian fashion journalist, Patty Huntington on the state of retail and its future

Having worked as fashion editor across several media platforms from print to television and online over the last 20 years, it's suffice to say Sydney-based journalist, Patty Huntington has experienced, and covered, most of the significant changes that have impacted the Australian fashion industry and retail sector. From the days of bricks-and-mortar and in-store only service to the wide-spread digital revolution which she says has ' impacted pretty much every facet of society and business'.

Since 2006, Patty has worked in the new media space and launched one of the world's first fashion blogs attached to a mainstream newspaper at smh.com.au. In 2007, she launched a new blog at news.com.au called Fully Chic, before eventually launching her own blog, frockwriter, whose stories are regularly picked up by Australian and international media outlets. Her site now attracts over 50,000 unique visitors and 100,000 page visits per month.

It's Patty's unique understanding of the traditional vs new media evolution, much of which was experienced through her own career, that has given rise to her new role as commentator.

In this exclusive interview with EXPOSED Online, Patty answers the tough questions about the state of the Australian retail sector. She says online is only part of the story as our prices are still more expensive and a combination of poor customer service and unimaginative visual merchandising are also major contributing factors to retail decline with `two thirds of consumers abandoning purchases because of a poor service experience in the past year'.

But above all, `Australians do want to spend money' and she believes there are lots of ways retailers could make their in-store experiences more 'special'.

From your experience across several media platforms, what have been the most significant changes to the Australian fashion industry, and how have those changes impacted the retail sector?

The digital revolution has obviously impacted pretty much every facet of society and business. With specific reference to fashion, it has contributed to a lightning speed-to-market. Firstly, regarding design ideas and trends. There was once an embargo on press coverage of the Paris shows if you can believe it - up until as recently as the 1990s as far as I'm aware. A few black and white shots were released to newspapers immediately but magazines had to wait - up to three months.

Now, with the exception perhaps of Tom Ford, every major designer's new collection is public information the nanosecond it hits the runway, via either live streaming and/or real-time photo reporting. Design ideas are immediately broadcast. This has only really reached critical mass in the past five years thanks to the social media explosion, the advent of smartphones and the development of live-streaming.

I recall live Tweeting the Dolce e Gabbana show with Bryanboy and Matt Jordan, another Sydney blogger (Imelda) back in September 2008 - it was the only show being live-streamed during fashion month. But preceding this real-time reportage explosion, don't forget, was the fast fashion phenomenon, spearheaded by Zara, H&M and Mango. They started opening hundreds of stores offering the latest catwalk trends at great prices and at record speed at the beginning of the oughties. This revolutionised the fashion buying cycle, eventually slashing everyone's delivery times as other retailers tried to play catch up.

Up until 18 months ago, however, Australian retailers, unlike those in many other international markets, did not have to contend with the fast fashion crew on their front door. Now that Zara and co have finally arrived down under, there's no escaping them. Add to this the relatively recent online shopping boom, which in Australia has most certainly been facilitated by the GST-free threshold and the record high Australian dollar, and it's a perfect storm for Australian retailers. It's one thing knocking off international fashion trends and pretending to be Zara. It's another once Zara arrives with infinitely bigger resources, cost efficiencies, more innovative thinking and sexier product and which can do fast fashion better, faster - and cheaper - than they can.

As for the e-tail boom, what possible excuse is there for the Australians' tardiness in adapting their businesses? It won't happen here doesn't really cut it because guess what, it is happening here and they are no longer competing with equally poorly-informed, risk-averse Australian players, but world's best practice.

Media seems to focus on the internet shopping phenomenon subsequently casting a doom and gloom shadow over the bricks and mortar retail sector - in your opinion, do you think e-comm and m-comm can be blamed exclusively?

Obviously it's impossible to ignore the online story because the retail climate here has been so bad - the worst in 30 years according to many - while online, although still a tiny fraction of the overall retail picture, is growing at a rapid clip.

Twenty six percent in the 12 months to October according to the NAB online retail sales index - compared to just two percent growth for the bricks and mortar sector. When you look at the figures it's hard to believe we are talking about the same market - we constantly hear that consumers aren't spending, that store traffic is dead and shops are closing and yet here they are spending up a storm online, Zara has opened six stores in 18 months, with Topshop, H&M, Uniqlo and now Reiss hot on their heels.The GST-free threshold is currently being looked at and if that is lowered it may help to even up the playing field.

But online is only part of the story. Our prices are still more expensive. And just how appealing is the bricks and mortar offer of many Australian retailers? An overall poor customer service experience is what we keep hearing. And just even with regard to visual merchandising and store design, it's not terribly exciting.

There is a great illustration of this on the corner of Castlereagh and Market Streets in Sydney, where Prada opened opposite David Jones' flagship store. There is Prada's sleek, futuristic black Roberto Baciocchi-designed shopfront, directly opposite David Jones' dreary front windows. One day I walked past and there were a couple of store dummies with a bit of coloured fabric draped behind them. This would be fine if we were talking about a country town, but it's not a country town, it's a major city. Beyond the Spring flower display - which is one of the world's best in my opinion - and the Christmas windows, there is never anything wildly imaginative there that might generate publicity and stop consumers in their tracks and get them talking - or better still, walking into store. It's the same at Myer and many other stores.

We only gave the world Marc Newson, it's not like we don't have great store designers, architects, visual merchandisers and artists who couldn't come up with something original. Fear of being too "out there" is typical in Australia unfortunately.

Here is something to consider which might help put things in perspective. When I was at New Zealand Fashion Week in September I did a double take after learning from some agents there that there are New Zealand retailers who do not use computers. I kid you not. I mentioned this during a recent interview with (Australian Exhibitions and Conferences managing director) Harvey Stockbridge, he told me that shortly after Informa acquired AEC, he asked colleagues at one point why so much marketing material had to be faxed out, instead of emailed. He was told it's because there are industry people on the mailing list who don't use computers!

How can anyone in the fashion industry even contemplate running their business today without access to a computer? It beggars belief, really. But there you have it. I've heard from several quarters - including senior management within Australian department stores regarding some of their own staff - that there are people working in the industry who "think it's still the 1980s".

While pricing continues to be a contentious issue with retailers and their battle with online, you said recently that 'one of the key issues not to be underestimated is the service aspect' with a survey done by a UK outfit last year called synovate in which over 60% of respondents cited either rude or slacker sales staff as the key turnoff factor for shopping here. Why do you think customer service has deteriorated so much in recent years? And do you think training and a re-focus on this area can resuscitate retail?

This is not isolated to Australia. The 2012 American Express Customer Service Barometer for instance reports that 93 percent of Americans surveyed say that companies fail to exceed their service expectations. But Australian consumers are amongst the most dissatisfied in the world, according to AmEx, with two thirds of consumers abandoning purchases because of a poor service experience in the past year.

On the other hand, more than half surveyed have spent more with a company because of a good experience and Australians would happily spend on average an extra 12percent if the service was better. Online has changed a lot about retail and not just in respect to where the dollars are going. Social media has amplified the customer service experience. Apart from the stories that go viral - how can anyone forget the Gasp story from Melbourne - I am constantly seeing comments on Twitter and Facebook about poor customer service experiences. "And they wonder why consumers go online" is invariably the comment that follows each anecdote.

Just with regard to the beauty area, specifically, Sydney-based beauty analyst Bu Australasia focussed on online in their half year report this year, noting that the online experience has irrevocably changed customer service expectations, because consumers are now better-educated on products, price comparisons etc when they walk into store and expect sales consultants to know more than they do.

Take a look inside any Apple store. You can buy all of those products online and yet their stores are jumping. The design is superlative for starters - it's an experience to walk into the store. Staff are everywhere - as opposed to nowhere to be found, which is a common complaint about Australian stores (many of which have cut staff hours to amortise losses from poor sales, so it's a vicious circle). The Apple staff are extremely upbeat and attentive and there are classes and other educational initiatives attracting foot traffic.

And let's not forget the Genius Bar, a truly genius customer service idea: 100% free, immediate, on-site analysis of your Apple gadget hassles by expert Apple staff, quickly locked in via an appointment made online. Not so long ago you had to leave your ailing Mac at some non-descript local reseller and do without it while it waited in the tech lineup, sometimes for days - and paid for the inconvenience.

Australians have embraced online shopping - with mobile on the rise - which sparked the recent Click Frenzy online shopping phenomenon. But the interest was so great that the site couldn't handle the capacity and crashed within moments of the sale going live along with Myer and David Jones - do you think Australia is ready for etail or etail on this scale?

Clearly many weren't, but it was great to see them have a go, "fail fast" as they say - even if it was years after these initiatives launched in the US - and get back on the horse immediately hopefully. Some report they did very well. Conveniently overlooked in all the coverage however was the fact that the websites of numerous American retailers that have now been doing this for years, also frequently crash at these times.

I don't recall seeing one Australian media outlet report that. ClickFrenzy reminded me of the Boxing Day etc sales when hordes wait up overnight to be first through the doors once stores open. I think it taught Australian retailers a very valuable lesson - Australians do want to spend money.

As a consumer of fashion, what are some of the areas you'd like to see retail improve on?

I'd like to see more big Australian companies tapping some of the stellar design talent that's being pumped out of our design colleges. They want the stuff that sells, I understand, so they want to see it sell elsewhere first before they put it into production here. But they could develop more original product. I know there have been tie-ins with companies such as Cue and Sportsgirl, but there could be more.

As with the previous point, I would also like to see more retailers being imaginative with visual merchandising and thinking outside the box about their brands and offer.

Given the rise of online, do you think bricks and mortar will always be relevant and desired by the consumer? Why?

Absolutely, because people still like to go into a store, provided it's a great experience. Just like they still like going into a movie theatre to see the latest blockbuster on offer, even at considerable expense. Everyone's got a home theatre these days, DVDs are cheap to buy and hire - free if they download illegally of course - and they can see a movie without blowing nearly $100 bucks for a few tickets and some popcorn and choc tops.But still they do it because they want a/ to see the latest blockbuster and b/ the entertainment experience. You can buy makeup online but a computer can't do your makeup.

Why not train up staff across all brands to be personal shoppers or 'cosmetic concierges'? Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and China has had this for several years now in its beauty departments (launched by an Australian in fact - their former beauty head, Simone Pedersen). Why David Jones doesn't develop a section of that magnificent, restored Level Seven space into a café where customers can go and have high tea in between shopping - I mean the full works that you get at The Peninsula in Hong Kong etc - is beyond me.

There are lots of ways retailers could make their in-store experiences more 'special'.

How do you think the changes within the fashion industry globally will impact fashion trade events?

I think fashion trade events are increasingly important as not just buying platforms but networking opportunities and educational platforms. They are a great way of seeing the latest and greatest on offer, catching up with people, making new connections - and ideally, learning things.

Sure you can do international research trips to see how everyone else is doing it, but business seminars for example pick the brains of and provide an insight into how some of those other retailers and players came up with those solutions.

We are seeing more and more of these sorts of fashion and luxury business conferences and summits - as well as online discussion sessions curated by various organisations (at ShowStudio in London, for example, and Miu Miu and Armani).

At a recent WGSN trend seminar they discussed the idea of trends being global now - How do you think this will impact the traditional buying cycle? Or do you think trends have less importance on buying now?

Trends are definitely more global than ever thanks to the internet, but there are still many local nuances. So, as they say, think global, act local. Zara may well be selling global trends but one of their key strengths is that they can tailor product to a specific market, or even store, using the intel that comes straight from the sales staff's customized PDAs about what is walking out the door - or not.

Where do you think fashion retail, globally, is headed? How much do you think the traditional runway show will change?

In an interview I did with NET-A-PORTER's Natalie Massenet in 2008, she predicted the end of the runway show within five years. That anniversary is next year and I'm afraid I can't see runway shows or fashion month going away any time soon.

If anything, these events are getting bigger, thanks to increased coverage. But I do think we are going to see potentially even shorter delivery cycles, with more merchandise being sold straight off the runway. It's already happening.

What do you think about the recent merge of Premiere trade event with MBFWA?

I think it's great, hopefully even a watershed moment for the industry. Getting the logistics right is going to be key, so there may be some teething problems but that's to be expected. I've only seen one Premiere at the RHI this year and I thought at the time it had huge potential - it just needed to be bigger and buzzier. Now, it's going to be flanked by the biggest fashion show in Australia.

I think it will help provide a greater business focus for MBFWA, give Premiere some pizazz and hopefully educate some of those reporting on the industry. Traditional trade fairs are where business is done in the fashion business around the world. But I will take a bet that many members of the Australian fashion media have never set foot inside one.

Hopefully the merger might also help bring the two factions of the industry a little closer together - the designer end and the grassroots trade faction. I find there has always been a very big disconnect between the two. The former is routinely dismissed as fluff and nonsense by the latter, that seems to delight in pointing out at any opportunity how poorly young designers run their businesses and how hopeless they are at managing money.

Of course many young designers don't have much of a grasp of the business side of the business. But the good ones are creating products that the world wants to buy.

Patty Huntington is a Sydney-based, fashion-specialist journalist with over 20 years experience in radio, television, print and new media.

Starting her career at Radio Nova in Paris, she is a former editor of Australian fashion industry newsmagazine Ragtrader and fashion reporter for the The Sydney Morning Herald, smh.com.au and News Ltd's news.com.au and has been widely published in Australian newspapers, business and fashion magazines. The Australian correspondent of US 'fashion bible' WWD since 1996, her work has also appeared in The New York Times' T Magazine/The Moment, The South China Morning Post, France's City and Actuel magazines and Canada's Globe and Mail. She has also worked as a news and current affairs television producer for Seven Network, Nine Network, CNN and Reuters Hong Kong.

In 2006 Huntington moved into new media, launching one of the world's first fashion blogs attached to a mainstream newspaper at smh.com.au - becoming the first blogger to report from Australian Fashion Week in April 2006 and one of the very first bloggers to report from the international show circuit in New York, London, Milan and Paris in September and October that year. In 2007, she launched a new blog at news.com.au called Fully Chic, whose frequently controversial stories about the fashion and modelling industries included a report on 14 year old Polish model Monika Jagaciak that became the catalyst for an under-16 model age ban at Australian Fashion Week in May 2008.

In July 2008 she launched her own blog, frockwriter, whose stories are regularly picked up by Australian and international media outlets, attracting over 50,000 unique visitors and 100,000 page visits per month. Dubbed "the ultimate go-to for model-twitchers" by Australia's largest youth and entertainment site, Fairfax's thevine.com.au, and "the scandal sheet for fashion's stitch-and-bitch crowd" by The Australian, in February 2012 frockwriter also managed to make it onto the radar of Malaysian Prime Minister Najib Razak. Referring to the blog's February exposé on a coverup that ensued after frockwriter - and later also The Sydney Morning Herald and numerous Malaysian media outlets - reported claims by Sydney-based designer Carl Kapp that he had sold close to $100,000 worth of clothing to Najib's wife Rosmah Mansor, Najib told his 800,000 Twitter followers that frockwriter's report was "a wildly exaggerated story deliberately fabricated to affect people's perception of their leaders".

Also in February 2012, Huntington became the first blogger to join the media network of US-based digital media e-commerce specialist Journalism Online, installing their Press+ metered paywall service that is used by international outlets such as The Independent and The Onion.

http://www.frockwriter.com/

All images via frockwriter

Shoppable Films: Fad or Future?

Written by Rachel Arthur, Media and marketing editor, WGSN

If there's one keyword at the centre of the burgeoning fashion and tech scene at the moment, it's 'shoppable'. Just as retailers and brands get a grasp on how to handle content, it's commerce that begins to drive the sector forward again - undoubtedly the effect of greater need for ROI within the social space.

What's resulted is a lot of experimentation with multiple great ideas, numerous not so good ones, and a handful of indications as to what the future might bring.

Video has proved one of the most thought-provoking and headline grabbing methods; click-to-buy moving images, as the industry tries to cash in on the increasing appetite for highly creative and beautiful films.

ASOS did so imaginatively with a campaign called Urban Tour last year that pulled together street artists from around the world to drive men towards its site. And Danish denim brand Only Jeans did so as well with what it called a "fashion catalogue, movie, game, music video, and the world's first on demand, online, video, retail environment". Both won awards at Cannes Lions this year.

The stats were impressive too - ASOS saw 14% of viewers purchase within seven minutes. Accordingly, it's launched another series, this time for women for the holiday season under the #BestNightEver tagline. Starring hip-hop artist Azealia Banks, model Charlotte Free and singer Ellie Goulding, it's sure to be another runaway success.

And yet, despite that, I remain to be convinced these highly interactive, not to mention big budget options, are the best answer if we're talking about scaled commerce.

As pointed out by Lauren Sherman, executive digital editor of US Condé Nast shopping title, Lucky Mag recently, most consumers actually don't want to watch videos (especially those any longer than 30-60 seconds) if they're trying to get something out of it - in this case items to buy. There's a disconnect between viewing for entertainment and for purpose as yet.

Yes today's tweens are growing up on video, but equally expecting them to sit through lengthy creative film work is not so suited to their on-the-go, real-time behaviour. There are brand identity pieces and then there's the type designed to encourage consumers to buy. The first often inspires the second, but trying to make them one and the same is a big ask.

Case in point: a luxury brand (that shall remain nameless) attempted a similar interactive film last year, but the functionality proved so poor you couldn't move your cursor to the item being advertised in time before the frame changed.

Juicy Couture meanwhile just launched a new initiative thanks to YouTube's beta external annotations technology (as reported by AdAge). It works wonderfully, but to view the items featured you're pulled away to another tab on your browser. Do that a few times and you've lost the point of the narrative - a Terry Richardson-directed tale about supermodel Candice Swanepoel and her Juicy Couture-fuelled dream sequence.

Not a great case for engagement you could argue.

Article source: huffingtonpost.co.uk

Image source: Fashionising.com

Solving the multi channel puzzle

Having just returned from the World Retail Congress in Berlin where the absolutely dominant theme was that of multi channel retailing.Everyone knows it, gets it and talked about the need for retailers to immerse themselves in being integrated multi channel retailers.

Our view is that the real essence of multi channel is to be a "cross channel" retailer such that all channels to market from physical stores, online, PDA, smart phone, social media channels etc connect seamlessly with the customer at any point of location or time.

That said, however, the question that remains somewhat largely unanswered is how does a retailer become a cross channel retailer?

So as implementation specialists and in this brief opportunity, we would list the following as imperatives to a "fit" cross channel strategy and its successful implementation.

The first step is to change the cultural thinking in many organisations developing a "Market to me" experience, a singular view of the customer or as one speaker said:

"To place the customer at the centre of every conversation with your brand."

Consider how we as customers have diversified into communities.

Markets are no longer determined as strictly by demographics or marketplace structures. Rather, by consumer personality and lifestyles. For example, the 50 year + plus shopper who shops at G Star , or Desigual is no longer driven by life stages, or norms of behaviour rather by personality and a strong sense of identity.

Identify the community who follows you and tap into who they are and why they connect with your brand as a starting point. This then determines your positioning execution with more clarity than the traditional market segmentation modelling whilst still concentrating on what makes you unique.

To read more of this article, visit retaildoctor.com.au

A moment with Christopher Graf

Think of Melbourne and colour is not something that always comes into mind. A city that quite often bases its garment ranges on black and dark moody colours, certainly has a hidden gem. Christopher Graf is one of Melbourne's leading enigmatic accessory designers with quite a talent. He is known for his strong use of colour and his myriad of astounding prints. I recently caught up with him and talked about his current collections, Kim Cattrall, and his plans for the future.

Phoebes Garland is a Features Writer for EXPOSED Online and co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion. Phoebes Garland was described as a " Power Agent", by Ragtrader magazine. Between the two of them, Phoebes & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading boutique fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media & the fashion industry on business fashion topics and issues. Phoebes Garland was also one of the judges for The Spirit of the Black Dress in 2012 (LMFF).

Tell me about your background?

I was 15 at Melbourne High School and it was careers week. My visions of turning the funeral industry upside down with my design aesthetic were shot down by a short sighted career adviser. My other passion was fashion and at that point I decided to take control of my own life and walked out of school at lunch time and straight into a position in a made to measure high fashion salon on Toorak Rd which gave me the appreciation of luxury and the skills of tailoring and pattern making.

Not long after that I started my own signature fashion label when I was 16, and was regarded as an enfant terrible of the iconic Fashion Design Council in the early 80's.

By the age of 21 I was exporting to Europe and Asia. I opened my flagship store on Chapel Street in the early 90's, which became famous for its unique and unforgettable interior. Also recently, a collection of my work has been acquired by the National Gallery of Victoria for their permanent collection.

After spending the last ten years in product development and branding other people's businesses, I felt an overwhelming desire to reclaim creative independence of my work and reconnect with my fashion roots. I am often amazed by how devoted and loyal my customers are still, even after a decade since the Chapel St store closed.

I felt compelled to give them something more but with a slightly new edge and more powerful attitude. I wanted to design luxurious accessories for women who are individual and non-conformist. The scarves are beautiful but at the same time playful and little rebellious. They make the wearer feel empowered yet sill utterly feminine.

What sort of price points do your scarves retail at?

Currently there are 2 scarf sizes. 97cm x 97cm silk satin (retail $265.00) and 137cm x 137cm silk chiffon (retail $325.00). All the hems are beautifully hand rolled and the scarves are gift boxed with my signature branding. The scarves are in very limited editions and with many designs there are only as few as 10 of each design so they are becoming very collectible.

You recently spent the day with Kim Cattrall, (Cattrall played Samantha in Sex and The City), while she was out here for the Melbourne Cup and later she tweeted "Best fashion Accessory Designer in Australia Christopher Graf. " How did you come to spend the day with her and how did it feel when she tweeted that?

Spending some time with Kim Cattrall while she was in Melbourne was an unexpected treat and a total delight. We got along really well and it was flattering she was such a huge fan of my brand. When I picked Kim up from her hotel and she was wearing a GRAF scarf ('Pharmacia'). Kim asked me to tie it for her and for a brief moment I was a little star-struck whilst entertaining a brief on the spot fantasy I was styling her for Sex & The City.

At the end of the day Kim was just an excited tourist on her last night in Australia, showing us her photos of cuddling koalas on her road trip along The Great Ocean Road. It was a fun night and Kim loved Melbourne's graffiti lane ways, hidden bars & world-class restaurants. I have to admit that Kim Cattrall's tweet did give me a buzz and US sales spiked on my online store as a result.

I love the Communion Sainte scarf, the colour and depth is quite amazing. There seems to be a slightly religious element to some of your pieces and you have also described you design a bit of good and evil can you explain? Your accessories are known for an amazing use of colour. What inspires you?

I guess I'm a rebellious kind of designer, I've never been afraid to take risks and for me it's been important to carve out a niche brand that is difficult for others to compare to. I love unexpected surprises in my work, little secrets and subliminal message, these things are not all over-thought, and they just flow quite easily. Any controversial imagery is not designed to shock the wearer but for the wearer to express her individuality, her confidence and above all her sense of humour. Re: GOOD Vs. EVIL branding.... It's complicated.

The branding has had to evolve from what peoples' perception was (and still is of me) from my fashion label I had for 20 years. The core branding of colour is still very evident and at first glance it all looks very familiar, yet it has evolved with a new attitude. The scarf box triggers memories of romantic chocolate boxes from the fifties...all sweetness and innocence and the box is lined hot pink in homage to the signature hot pink satin lining I used to line my clothing in for so many years. I guess what I found both amusing and inspiring was to have these beautiful boxes contain the unexpected suggestions of cardinal sins and other vices fused with angelic beauty. Hence the juxtaposition of Good Vs. Evil.

What are the plans for the future, will you expand into some garments or more accessories or homewares?

At the moment it's important to me to nurture and strengthen my relationships with my retailers. Christine Burro from CHRISTINE in Flinders Lane has been a strong supporter of my brand for over a year now. To be under Christine's wing is a feather in my own cap as her stature in the fashion industry is nothing short of iconic and with an international reputation that leaves you breathless.

Also, MONA-Museum of Old and New Art in Hobart, Tasmania is a massive supporter of my brand. They actually have a whole wall devoted to GRAF scarves in the gift shop, which kind of blows my mind. MONA certainly inspires and encourages me to be as controversial as I like and as a designer I find that very inspiring and stimulating. The next 12 months my goal is to spread my wings and secure several prime stockists in the US, Europe, Middle East and Asia.

Meanwhile I'm toying with the idea of branching out into homewares, as it's an area that has inspired me for a long time.

To enquire about stocking Christopher Graf's scarves visit his website, christophergraf.com.au

Kim Cattrall owns 'Pharmacia' - 'Mickey Juice' - Hush Honey' & 'Blue Monday' limited edition Christopher Graf silk scarves.

Email me: info@garlands.com.au

Or you can follow me through the following social media;

Twitter
Facebook
Pinterest
Instagram - @phoebes_garland

How to increase your average sale and retain your best staff

There's no doubt 2012 has been a turbulent year. Retail has certainly been one of the most challenging industries with the market demanding daily changes to the status quo as it moves from a purely static experience to an online / offline multi-disciplinary space.

But internet shopping is not a threat to your business if you manage the strengths of bricks-and-mortar, according to Director & Image Advisor of Image Quest, Helen Robinett. She believes every retail business has the ability to maximise sales and retain good staff. It's all about creating a unique buying experience within your fashion retail business that makes your customer a `fan' and keeps them coming back.

Helen recently joined forces with TFIA Textile & Fashion Hub to devise an intensive retail training workshop around the Six Crucial Steps process to help retailers get results and dramatically increase sales.

We took five with the presentation personality to get her thoughts on how retail can improve sales despite a challenging economy; how poor customer service skills are damaging the retail experience; and her tips on how to build a 'story of garments' to increase items per sale.

Helen's 20 years+ experience in sales, marketing and advising leading corporate and individual clients have given her the understanding that helps develop a personal and professional image which are key ingredients in business success. With her extensive retail experience in men's and women's leading fashion labels on both national and international levels Helen works with clients to develop a comprehensive image-management strategy and ensures that staff reflect the image and branding of the company.

The media constantly reports challenging trading conditions for retail, as someone who is a consumer and works in image consulting, what are some of the key areas retailers can improve on to bring customers back in-store?

Knowing their product, which means how it fits on particular bodies, fabric, wear and care aspects. Another crucial area is being skilled in the fine art of communicating effectively with the client. This is quite a complex question to answer in a snap. It's about language, and not being on a mobile phone on the shop floor (yes, this has happened to me).

Your new TFIA workshop insists there are ways to maximise sales and retain good staff with your Six Crucial Steps process - one of those steps is improving the customer service experience - why is this area in need of improvement? how does this service need to change to so retailers can understand and authentically connect with their customer again? And why is this important?

This area is in dire need of improvement. Women crave an experience and are seeking service. The feedback I am getting from clients all over the country is that the service levels in retail fashion are very poor.

It's clear to me as an image stylist that some stores are fabulous, and others a complete disaster. Some are clearly trained and others have no idea or just don't want to be there. It's not an environment conducive to buying. When you can create an environment where the client will buy, the average sale will increase. I've seen this happen for real!

Staff who are engaged in the process and meeting and exceeding their budgets love their jobs and stay. The risk retailers face by not adequately training their staff is that they will have a disaster on the shop floor and sales walking out on a daily basis. Some retailers may argue that training is expensive and what if they leave anyway? Well, what if they stay?

Tom O'Toole from the Beechworth Bakery subscribes to the theory of 'what if they stay?'. Bugger it, train them! It's time we made retail fashion a career of choice and gave it some prestige. It's a brilliant career. Good retailers have a lot of power with clients - they trust them.

The authentic connection is really what the client wants now. Everything has turned full circle. Internet shopping will never take over a live experience. A great retailer has the ability to empower the client and turn them into a raving fan sending all their friends there - this means great turnover of stock.

Can you talk us through your profession as an image stylist and mentor? How has this background prepared you for this workshop?

I've been working as an image stylist for 10 years. Most of my clients are professional women who have the budget and want the service. I've seen both extremes of the good retailer and the disaster! Some of them are really quite laughable.

One store I love to take clients into hover about the change room and tell my client they love it when I come in because they learn new skills from me. Makes me wonder what's going on in head office at a training level. I think not much.

More recently in the past 18 months I have been mentoring and coaching image stylists on how to attract more clients into their business and work smarter with retail fashion. My experience has shown me that many retail stores are not image stylist friendly. That's a topic that opens up a can of worms!

Internet shopping is constantly blamed for the demise of bricks and mortar, but your workshop aims to prove that it's not a threat to your business - what are some of the strengths people can build on to improve their boutique/fashion store?

it all comes down to building on the client experience. Honestly, most of what I recommend needs to go in a client's wardrobe, is an internet purchase. So many of them just don't work. Yes people will internet shop, but they are sure not buying their entire wardrobes online.

Women crave an experience and so many of them have no idea what they are doing. My motivation is that I believe every woman deserves to walk into a store and get the service she is deserving of. Not everyone can afford the services of an image stylist but they all want to know some of the key secrets.

One of the topics you will cover in the workshop is how to develop a customer 'snapshot', can you explain this in more detail?

This is a big one and too complex to do it justice in an article here. In simple terms it's about looking at the client at the front door. How are they dressed, groomed, accessorised? What language are they using as they respond to your greeting?

I will train staff on how to identify who this client is in terms of their style direction and asking some key questions, so that they will be able to bring forward pieces in the collection that this client will resonate with. Tough to explain but easy to achieve once you know how. I love this segment. It's my favourite part of the program.

You also suggest building a 'story of garments' to increase items per sale - what do you mean by this? And how is this executed?

It's about bringing a collection of garments together that build a story and all go back with each other. This makes the cost per wear very low and the investment very attractive to the client. We start with core basics and inject seasonal pieces (not many) and some bridging pieces. This is the key to the story.

The bridging piece is the one that makes all the others work. It will transform a core piece from day to night. Clients love to see how smart their pieces are and what options they have. If they are wearing it, it's not a waste of money, it's a smart purchase.

With so many people crying time poor, juggling business, family and lifestyle, why is it important for them to take time out for education and workshops such as this?

It's about investing in the business and staff. Actually it's simpler than that - these strategies will increase sales. It's just that simple!

TFIA Retail Revolution workshop with Helen Robinett - Wednesday 12th December

Every retail business has the ability to maximise sales and retain good staff. In this intensive retail training workshop, Helen Robinett will take you through her Six Crucial Steps process, showing you how to get results, increase sales and improve the customer service experience in today's challenging retail environment - all without having to hire expensive consultants.

Proving internet shopping is not a threat to your business if you manage the strengths of bricks-and-mortar.

Take part in this session (usually only available via Helen's exclusive 2-day training workshop) and learn how to:

+ Create a customer experience

+ Develop a customer 'snapshot'

+ Understand and authentically connect with your customer

+ Realise the potential in specialising to your customer's needs

+ Build a 'story of garments' increasing items per sale

+ Align with the best

+ Make your customer a fan and keep them coming back

For more information on the TFIA Textile & Fashion Hub, visit tfia.com.au

The Year - The Wrap

What an interesting year it's been. Selling Winter 2013, the mood was very despondent from buyers, and understandably, with such an unpredictable retailing climate. One minute, it's the best retailing day ever, and the next it's the worst week ever. Bracing myself and expecting the worst, you can never imagine my surprise when I finished off the figures at the end of the season, and finding it was actually our best season ever since we started business. Either way, even in the bad times, my motto is, you have to laugh and take it all in your stride. Ride out the good times, work with your suppliers through the bad and be kind to each other. We all need each other.

Phoebes Garland is a Features Writer for EXPOSED Online and co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion. Phoebes Garland was described as a " Power Agent" by Ragtrader Between the two of them, Phoebes & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading boutique fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues. Phoebes Garland was one of the judges for The Spirit of the Black Dress in 2012 (LMFF).

Here is my wrap on the year in fashion.

1) Trends . . . well it's always a bit of a lost leader for buyers, probably something that works well in the younger market, but even then I think it can be dependent on price. Personally I am sequined and leather obsessed this season. My wardrobe is suddenly glittering with metallic sequined garments. Kerri Anne Kennerley would be terribly proud. However, not sure if I want to see 50+ women, size 18 upwards in peplum and neon's. I think I have had enough of both these trends for now, time to move on.

2) Sadly still there were too many voluntary administrations of many fashion businesses. One chain, where there was a lot of sympathy in particular for, were the owners of Ojay. Apparently, very lovely people in the trade, and a lot of people, the old timers in the industry, were very sad to hear of the demise of this business.

3) Ragtrader magazine celebrated by turning 40 this year. Originally founded by the very popular Frazer McEwing, who still keeps a hand in, with his highly astute and hilarious column. He laments in the 40^th anniversary issue, starting Ragtrader with no air conditioning, and sitting in his underpants in searing heat. Which incidentally, made him be known to neighbours as the 'naked man upstairs". He maintains having a self-deprecating sense of humour helped him avoid lawsuits with his opinioned views. He also speaks of the various apologies he has issued. Recalling with one issue of Ragtrader, having a full page of apologies to various people he offended, then apologising for the amount of room it took to write the apologies. While on a more recent note, Editor, Assia Benmedjdoub, posted a photo for me on Facebook, going through archives from the 1970's, with a headline illustrating the woes of discounting way back then and a fashion agent discussing the perils of it. How nothing has changed! Congratulations Ragtrader, 40 years on, and still a brilliant and gripping industry read and a wonderful look back through the industry. Happy 40^th Ragtrader x.

4) Despite the Gillard government and the TCFUA making it challenging to manufacture in Australia for small businesses, we are pleased to have added a 100% Australian made label dress label to our stable. Rebecca Ruby, will be launching for summer 2013. A highly experienced operator, with beautiful designs and who has been in the industry for over 20 years. So great having an Australian made label back in the folds. On another note, two other labels we represent, TAKA and Holmes & Fallon, both regulars at Fashion Exposed, offer at least over 150 - 200 % margin to retailers and performing beautifully in terms of sell through. Smart operators, keeping it affordable at retail while offering buyers margin.

5) The Iconic turned 1, Matches Fashion, Shopbop.com, ASOS.com, launching a special collection for the Australian market, and FarFetch.com looking to Australian shores. These large etailers are strongly looking to the Australian market with dedicated PR companies building brand awareness. While good customer service goes without saying, online and offline, etailing is still rampant and it's definitely a case of innovate by adapting or perish.

6) Milliners . . . everywhere it seems! Who would have thought for such a niche business, but obviously it's a good one. We have so many talents in Australia with the likes of Kerrie Stanley, Jonathan Howard, Richard Nylon and Nerida Winter, producing some sensational creations. Love seeing ladies and (some gentlemen) getting dressed up with their headgear on.

7) One day I pray we get there, but I am still finding some manufacturers and distributors still struggling to come to terms with 'direct to consumer engagement'. Eat, pray and love it, because it's a key component to survival to building sales. Building a brand is crucial in this economy in the eyes of the consumer. Great to read an article in the Business of Fashion, summing it up perfectly. - "Going forward, every brand must figure out how to connect directly with its customers and they must structure their business around the relationships they want to have with their customer rather than let their distribution channels define them."

8) Premiere boutique trade event announcing the merging with Mercedes- Benz Fashion Week Australia for the next 4 years. Best thing ever that could happen to the high-end component of the industry. Really looking forward to covering some of this for 2013.

9) Well as popular as fast fashion has been, the consumer is starting to demand decent quality, and isn't satisfied with paying for cheap garments and replacing them within a few wears. Several chains are looking to address this problem with their makers; including fast fashion chains GAP and ZARA. The wholesale sector has also suffered last season from bad quality, with one particular fashion stock label receiving a lot of complaints about quality issues. Again, reinforcing that the consumer wants 'value for money', which doesn't mean cheap and nasty. Understanding 'value for money' is vital in these retailing conditions.

10) Lastly, a big thank you to all the buyers who come to our agency each season and especially the ones who have done business with us for many years. We know there are many great labels out there, and we understand buyers are inundated. We love doing business with all our buyers and we really appreciate you taking the time to come and see us. We shall be contacting you for Summer 2013 in December, so make sure you buy your diaries for next year.

On behalf of Robert Garland and myself, we would like to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a wonderful New Year 2013 x

Any highlights for you in 2012 ?

Email me: info@garlands.com.au

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Smart phones, shopping drive digital economy

via Financial Review

Smart phones ... ownership almost doubled in the 12 months to July 2012, with 49 per cent of Australians now possessing one. Australia's digital economy grew significantly in 2011-12 with online shopping, social networking sites and a near doubling of smart phone ownership helping drive the boom.

Online shopping activities grew 27 per cent in the 12 months to July 12, according to a new report by the Australian Communications and Media Authority (ACMA). There are now 11.36 million Facebook users in Australia, 9.67 million YouTube users and, in the 12 months to July 2012, 12.27 million people accessed online news sites.

It's unclear if those social network and news figures have increased from the previous reporting period because ACMA has changed the way it calculates the data. Smart phone ownership almost doubled in the 12 months to July 2012, with 49 per cent of Australians now possessing one, up from 25 per cent.

Joseph Di Gregorio, author of ACMA's report - Australia's progress in the digital economy: participation, trust and confidence - expects the digital economy to continue growing.

"Participation is actually broadening across all age groups," he told AAP. "It's also becoming more intensive because people are downloading more and doing more things."

Mr Di Gregorio said Australians are increasingly mixing and matching how they access the internet, often using traditional computers at work or home and tablets and mobile devices while on the move.

Where & how the fashion industry could boost sales

The Australian fashion industry is losing a significant amount of sales through its inability to engage with buyers and direct to consumer through sales and marketing channels, and lack of innovation. Embracing change is something that is getting the industry unstuck. One of our largest leading Australian department stores has only in the last year decided to think about investing money into omni-channel retailing, (yes I know they did attempt it in unsuccessfully in 2003), while the rest of their competition overseas have done it since the late 1990's.

Phoebes Garland is a Features Writer for www.fashionexposedonline.com.au and co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a "veteran rag trader" with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry, with Ragtrader also describing Phoebes Garland as a " Power Agent". Between the two of them, Phoebes & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading boutique fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues. Phoebes Garland was one of the judges for The Spirit of the Black Dress in 2012 (LMFF).

Still to this day, the Australian department stores have cash registers that are running on DOS. Outdated systems and lack of strategies, is the biggest culprit contributing to the decline in sales in the fashion industry. With the most favoured 'discounting' strategy, always being used to drive sales by department stores, chain stores and now infiltrating into independents and manufacturers to clear stock simply, because they have no choice but to compete with the majors.

There is also a major disconnect with the industry. On one hand we have the young designers who understand the importance of marketing, social media and look books, yet struggle to get significant sales, due to being quite often uncompetitive on price in comparison to the chain stores or cheap Chinese imports. Then we have distributors, importing non-branded product into Australia with expensive price points, due to high shipping and duties, then refusing to spend any money into marketing these brands, which quite often results in representing a lack of 'value for money' at retail. While lastly, we have the mature operators, who are lucky enough to be targeting the baby boomers (who do have money), yet have almost zero idea about marketing, social media and consumer engagement. The common and most frightening element is, the resistance to change, and realise its actually costing each segment significant sales.

The word "engagement", is a word strongly lacking in the fashion industry, whether or not it be engaging with direct to consumer or the buyers to fully understand the customer. Quite often there are young labels attempting to sell garments retailing at $400 plus, targeting young girls who don't even make an income. Talk about not understanding your customer. While on the other side, there is the mature end of the industry, in denial their age group shops online, yet they wonder why the sales are in decline, of course aside from taking into account the other factors, like economic uncertainty.

Sadly, the fashion industry is too used to the good old days, the years of customers walking into the shops and raking in the sales without having to do too much. Now those days are gone, everyone is scratching his or her heads not knowing what to do. There is also an immense amount of technophobia in the industry, which isn't helping. At a range preview I attended, I counted over 11 different fashion agencies attending, and out of those 11, only three have websites. Even using email is something the industry does not necessarily use everyday, with one agent saying,

" You can email me but don't expect me to respond". In other words, she had no idea how to even use her email. Alarmingly there are still quite a few buyers without email addresses. We are in 2012 aren't we?

Coming from a publishing/advertising background I have maintained most people in the mature fashion industry wouldn't survive a day in it due to the technophobia, lack of innovation and inability to embrace change. The lack of understanding of sales and marketing is quite staggering in the fashion industry, particularly those targeting the baby boomer market. The publishing industry is a tough competitive industry with very little demand for what you are selling, and it's completely non-negotiable about meeting sales targets. To top it off, not much advertising comes in on it's own, to meet the quite often unrealistic high sales targets. It requires working strategies, to go and and get the business through written presentations, pitching ideas through sales and marketing strategies and executions, numerous meetings and lots of emailing back and forth. It's all thinking about thinking outside the square. In other words, it makes selling garments look like a walk in the park.

Here are some ways the Australian fashion industry could boost sales

Range Books/Look Books

Alarmingly there are range books still being produced instead of look books. Look at the illustration on most range books, and you soon realize there is no way a person who wasn't familiar with the range could order from these. Even then as an agent I find it hard to use them. They are bulky and a pain. In the younger fashion, look books are almost a given. If you have a look book with all colour ways, fabric info and a separate price list with sizes, and specs you don't need to use a range book, as it will double as both. This is an essential tool to fashion agents and retailers. The amount of buyers wanting to buy straight from look books is getting more common place, particularly country ones that can't make it in to see ranges. Major sales are being lost by not providing one. In fact so much so, this has become a 'deal breaker' to our agency taking on a label if they don't invest in one. I had one very large buyer say to me this season "Unless I am provided with a look book, that label goes straight to the bottom of the pile". Trust me I don't think any manufacturer wants to miss out on this business she gives me.

Decent Photographs

If you want scary photographs, have a look at most 30+ fashion shoots. Some are straight out of the Manson family, and mostly others just look like some suburban nightmare. There is nothing aspirational about 90% of the photographs I see, nor are they in any way a selling point. Have bad photos and it will cost you dearly in sales. Most of the photos I see, I actually find it hard to believe these companies are in the business of selling fashion. Too often I see photos shoots with flat shoes, no styling, no make up, limp greasy hair and a 'model', which is usually some family member they decided to use that a modeling agency would just laugh at. Photos are the initial selling point of a range. Basic presentation skills please! This is a serious investment and yet so many companies are reluctant to spend the money on and don't treat it seriously. Last season I think our agency was able to secure 20 new appointments due to one of my clients taking my advice and investing in decent photography and an outstanding look book. It really enabled us to get a massive increase in sales by having this vital tool. The amount of response I get to good photos can mean the difference of a new label making an appointment, or completely being turned off by a label. By good photos I mean professional models, a good professional photographer, a good makeup artist/stylist and light photo retouching not exaggerated cut and pasting. More and more retailers are also needing the shots for their website to help sell brands. Don't think for a minute it's not worth spending the money on a decent stylist/hair and make up and accessories. You can achieve this for as little as 2K all up and the orders you will get will more than pay for it.

Stock Catalogues/Brochures

There are many manufacturers, which do back extra in season stock, yet they do nothing to market it to the trade. Only one company I know actually produces a stock catalogue and I am surprised more don't do so. There is a myth that running a stock catalogue is expensive. To print a small one will cost you under $500. Like anything shop it around. Where many companies make mistakes with catalogues, are by having too many pictures on a page thus making the garments hard to see. If you mailed out a stock catalogue with your statements to retailers you would probably gain a lot more sales. Otherwise you are just waiting to have your retailers contact you. Give retailers an idea, of what will be going into stock so they can promote certain pieces for Christmas time, or Mother's Day, Father's Day and other special occasions to drive sales. If they don't know what you have in stock, chances are they probably wont buy it in season or push it, which leaves manufacturers/distributors with a costly problem at the end of season.

Electronic newsletter/Social Media/Website

All of these are great mediums to use as 'engagement'. An email database is a great investment and way to keep your buyers in touch with the latest collections you are selling and regularly communicate with your client base through your electronic newsletter. Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram and other social media is also a great way to promote and build brands and allows you to find out which styles your potential customers want. It enables engagement and to see what people respond to and what styles work and what styles don't work. But more importantly ask questions on these mediums, get to know your customer. The lack of websites in the fashion industry particularly for retailers is alarming. While retailers may not have their head around etailing completely, by having a website at least stating the brands you stock and the style of your business, you may be surprised you have customers from afar making enquiries you normally wouldn't get. With all these different marketing mediums, having the right content is crucial and you do have to promote your presences to enable to get these potential customers following you through social media.

PR/Celebrity

Recently we have seen a surge of overseas chain stores targeting the Australian market with many more to come. These overseas retailers are taking the Australian market so seriously they are appointing dedicated Australian P.R companies to drive sales. Global etail giant ASOS.com is one that continues to innovate, offering a special summer collection 2013 titled 'In your World" exclusively for the Australian market. Incidentally Australia is their second biggest market outside of the UK. Australian consumers have been invited to log into ASOS.com with a special code to buy the exclusive collection which kick started from the 1^st October 2012.Targeting overseas markets is a definitely a smart strategy for retailers and manufacturers and one that the Australian retailers and manufacturers/designers definitely need to come up to speed on. Adelaide based, Australian fashion labels (labels include Cameo, Finders Keepers & Keepsake) is one company that has dedicated PR agents in LA and New York and maintains celebrity sells with the likes of Paris Hilton, Kim & Kourtney karadashian wearing their garments and producing strong sales for them.

Do you have a fabulous strategy to drive sales? Interested to hear about it. Contact me below:

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Finding Your M.O. | Part 3: The Business Plan is Your Roadmap

Finding Your M.O. is an on-going series penned by Áslaug Magnúsdóttir, co-founder and CEO of Moda Operandi, on her experience at the helm of a fashion-technology start-up. In Part 2, we examined the need for speed. Today, we break-down the elements of a business plan.

Early stage entrepreneurs often ask: is a business plan really that important or can you get away without one?

The quick answer is: yes, it's really that important, and, no, you cannot get away without one. If you're looking to third parties to raise capital, they're understandably going to want to see a plan for what you want to do and how their money is going to be spent, with some very specific topics addressed along the way.

Certainly, there are exceptions to the rule. Friends and family sometimes just want to fund your business no matter what, or maybe you've found an angel with such an understanding of your concept that a plan isn't necessary to get the checkbook out. My partners and I at TSM Capital sometimes invested in fashion brands that did not have business plans, but did have management teams with very clear ideas about growing the business. But even in those situations, our first order of business was always to sit down together and map out a plan. A business plan, at its core, forces the entrepreneur to clearly articulate the business in writing so that the entrepreneur, key team members and investors all stay on the same page in terms of product, strategy and financial expectations.

In short, you're most likely going to need a business plan to get funded. And if you're lucky enough to get funded without one, you're still better off having one as it will serve as a roadmap for your early months.

To read more visit, businessoffashion.com

Stop customers treating your business as a showroom

Showrooming - the consumer practice of checking out a product in one store and buying it elsewhere at a better price - has always been a challenge in retail. But with the advent of smartphones and the expansion of online retailers such as Amazon.com, showrooming has gone from being a headache for bricks and mortar retailers to a full-blown migraine.

Mobile phones allow consumers to "make a purchase anywhere - and that takes out the middle step of going home and ordering online," says Wharton marketing professor David Bell. "As technology facilitates it, [showrooming] will only become more prevalent."

The latest salvo in the battle: Walmart stores' recent decision to stop selling Amazon's Kindle e-readers and tablets, a step fellow big-box retailer Target also took earlier this year. The chains' decisions to exile the Kindle come as Amazon continues to promote a mobile app that allows consumers to scan barcodes in physical stores and find the (usually cheaper) Amazon price for that item immediately.

"The issue used to be, 'Can I get you to come to my store instead of a competing store?'" notes Ron Adner, professor of strategy and entrepreneurship at Dartmouth College's Tuck School of Business. "Now you are bringing the other store in with you. And that raises the level of competition."

In fact, the pressure created by showrooming is evident in a number of moves that bricks and mortar retailers have made recently. In January, Target sent a letter to vendors asking for their help in combating the problem, suggesting that they create exclusive products for the Minnesota-based retail chain or find ways to match the low prices offered by online retailers.

To read more, visit smartcompany.com.au

And learn more about showrooming at springfieldnewssun.com

Retail sector sees green flying off the racks

Green building initiatives for the retail sector are booming.

With reasons for greening ranging from moral decisions to money-saving schemes, depending on the agenda of the person implementing the green initiative, there can be no denying that green is trending, and has in fact reached 'uber-trend' levels with environmentally responsible initiatives increasingly 'the next big thing.'

It seems like a no-brainer that an industry such as retail, which relies heavily on trends and trend promotion, would be right on board with the green movement, and that can be seen through a growing number of green retailers popping up worldwide.

Brookfield Multiplex's $215 million Stockland Shellharbour shopping centre redevelopment, in development in Australia, promises to be much more than a trendy boutique retailer.

With stage two of the development now complete, interiors of the finished sections are coming to light, boasting a number of visually and environmentally impressive aspects.

Designed by The Buchan Group, stage two showcases strong energy conservation throughout the interior design, which includes deep internal voids that aim to maximise natural light - something that is rarely in abundance in shopping complexes. While natural light is the key to reducing reliance on electrical lighting, the heat gain from natural light often increases electricity consumption, replacing a reliance on lighting with a reliance on cooling. In the Stockland Shellharbour development, high performance glass and double-glazing have been used in order to eliminate solar gain, thus minimising solar heat loads.

Why is social media such a vital part of any business strategy?

Remember the retail hey days when things were simple. When all you had to do was open a fashion boutique and customers would come through the door, try on and buy? Well we all know those days are long gone, but the introduction of technology to bricks and mortar shouldn't have a negative impact.

There have never been more channels in which to communicate, chat, inform, share with your customer. Facebook, instagram, twitter and pinterest have all become powerful tools for fashion brands.

To assist fashion boutiques, brands and business' in their quest to infiltrate these new mediums, the TFIA have developed a practical seminar series titled `Your Social Media Strategy' to help you develop a Social Media Schedule and an understanding of the full capabilities of each channel and how they can work for your business.

"Creating relationships must be part of every business strategy. In fact, without relationships with people and businesses, there is no business," says Elana Harari of The Digital Aviary who presents the TFIA Your Social Media Strategy workshops. "Social Media simply gives you the ability to strengthen, create and explore new relationships every single day, and allows you to connect with businesses and customers on a scale we have never seen before. Millions of people have all 'suddenly' become accessible to anyone and everyone.

"If you have an impressive business and you have a great product or service, then it's time the world was allowed to see it. Your customers demand it, your business deserves it and the world expects it. So, understanding social media strategy is the essential element for making sure your business is part of the future, not lost in the past. If you get it, your business will thrive; if you don't then the future isn't looking great."

Elana says businesses who don't adapt to digital are `going to literally disappear' stating recent statistics prove the average person is spending six hours a month on social networking sites, and 57% are more likely to purchase from a brand they 'follow' online.

"Social Media is your brand connecting with the world," she says. "Simply put, if you aren't online talking to your customers, then someone else will. This means your competition will fill the need your customers are looking for- the need of further connection."

We took five with Elana to discuss how instagram can develop a 'cult-like following; why Pinterest is an essential tool in eliciting sales; and the importance of an online social media strategy.

How can social media become a powerful tool for fashion brands? How does it connect your brand with the right customer?

Used correctly, Social Media allows fashion brands to take customers beyond their product and make connections with your brand. People buy what you are about; if they love you, they are going to love your products. You have the ability to make clients love you every single day, even before your next launch.

The TFIA have been using digital in many different ways to create new advantages for members. In this industry, innovation is the key. Their initiatives include ways to promote members, showcase new ranges and highlight achievements (to name a few). This has lead to greater connection with media, politicians and influential networks.

As they serve their member-base, the TFIA has developed a digital presence that will enhance their ability to promote, assist and nurture their members, their work and the network as a whole community.

Instagram is a relatively new channel but it continues to grow in popularity - why is it such a useful tool and how can brands use this channel effectively to promote their retail stores? Can you outline a few pointers of how retailers can use instagram? What kind of photos do you take in store?

The importance of Instagram can be summed up in one sentence.

Instagram had never made one-cent from operations when Facebook purchased it for $2 billion in early 2012. For Facebook to be interested in this platform, we know these guys were onto something.

Fashion is a highly visual industry and Instagram facilitates visual communication and allows customers to contribute and get involved. It is quick, inexpensive (free) and allows you to develop a cult like following.

Uploads of behind-the-scenes and new ranges can elicit thousands of 'likes' simply because people are learning more about a brand and feeling like they are part of what is happening.

As with all things digital, the challenging part of the platform is the question 'what should I be updating' and 'how should I best use this platform for our brand'? The answer is simple, try it. If you don't understand or find it to confronting, seek out the TFIA digital initiatives and get help. It is available to you as a Members privilege.

Pinterest is also a newcomer but is utilised by many of the retail heavyweights now including Barneys NY and Net-a-Porter - why? and how are they using it to push sales?

It was announced recently that Pinterest has now passed Twitter in terms of eliciting sales, making it #2 behind Facebook. This means it is a serious opportunity for your brand! Just imagine every customer that has ever purchased your product. Now imagine that number times one million looking at your product everyday. Do you think that might be important?

The reason that fashion loves Pinterest is that it targets people at the 'inspiration' phase of purchase - This includes every potential customer, buyer, retailer or fashion blogger looking for the next "brilliant" product or style.

This phase is where they don't even know that they are shopping, they are waiting for a visual trigger. By removing the aspect of selling, people are more open to what they see as they feel more in control as they scroll through the thousands of potential sales in front of them.

The reason the heavyweights are using it? They are able 'sell' all of their product in a fun and unassuming way. It's a numbers game, millions of eyeballs looking at your products, someone is going to buy! The fact that it's image based and is very easy to share, means that Barneys and Net-A-Porter are getting 'free' promotion from people (females) in their digital community sharing their Pinterest boards with friends.

What is your response to those who haven't yet switched on to social media because they are afraid of losing their privacy or of receiving negative feedback?

Many people forget that if you don't put it out there, no one will know. The issues younger people face around privacy invasion is often (not always, but often) caused by the fact that they have shared too much information about themselves or a particular situation.

Just as some people require education on what they should be sharing online, the same is true that some people need to be taught what is not appropriate.

For business, the flip side is this - just because you're not online, doesn't mean people aren't talking about it. What it does mean is that you have no way to respond, connect, defend or assist because you are not listing.

Everyday that you are online is another day that you can gain a new member to your community and convert them into a customer. Everyday you are not talking online, is another day you are missing out and someone is taking your place.

What does a social media schedule consist of? And why is it so important to utilise a strategy?

A Social Media schedule is developed inline with a business' unique digital strategy and can include anything the clients wants - timings of updates, content requirements, specific links to use, appropriate wording, messages, audience highlights, potential partners - it all depends on the client and the digital strategist you choose.

For a fashion business, it's like planning for your ranges. Every look, idea, color and picture is planned, has a reason and fits together to form a perfect strategy.

That's what a digital strategy is, having 12 months of planning ready for your business online. You don't wake up one morning and create a fashion look for that day. The same with digital strategy, it is planned, executed and has reason.

A business that is targeted at 15 year-old females, for instance, would never advertise in a men's magazine - the same goes for online. Strategy is important because you now have the opportunity to talk to millions of people, and you want to ensure you are doing it right!

With so many channels to tap into, is it a good idea to be switched onto all of them? Or is it more a case of finding out what works best for your brand/retail specifically and make them work?

Everyone will answer this differently! Some say "no, only do what you can manage." Others say "yes, it's all or nothing"

At The Digital Aviary we develop strategy that is unique to the needs of the specific audience and then look at the strategic way to implement content on all relevant platforms. The key there is relevant. Yes, every platform will be relevant for your community, you just need to know why and how to utilise it effectively.

The TFIA for example, wanted to use platforms that would assist their members - so Facebook, Twitter and blogs were 'no brainers' as it ticked all member-based requirements. We have been working on their Pinterest account and a specific strategy that focuses on "what will members get from this".

Our advice is simple, don't just dabble in digital. Choose to make it work for you. Use all platforms, work them out yourself or attend your TFIA members training sessions. It will change your entire business.

Working in the digital space, what are some of the common flaws you see with social media and business? what can go wrong? And how can you avoid it?

The biggest mistake I see constantly is the comment 'the intern can do Facebook because they are 21'. That is like saying 'I drive a car, so I can fix it too.'

Consider digital as the opportunity to speak to every potential client in the world at once every minute of the day. Now, who do you want doing this? Your new intern?

Social Networking sites are your public face and your best marketing tool available. Not understanding how these work isn't an option anymore and putting someone in charge of this because they use it in their personal life can be a costly decision. In fact it is a ludicrous decision.

The best way to avoid this is to contact someone who does it as a job. Digital platforms are free, but the knowledge and time these people can give you might one day save your business.

This is closely followed by no strategy. As I said, you wouldn't advertise product for teenage girls in a men's magazine because your advertising strategy says that's wrong. Digital is no different. No strategy = no return on investment.

When operating a business social media channel, should you talk to people in a conversational way or more professional? Why?

Once again, this links back to your strategy. Before you decide what you are saying, you need to know who you are saying it to. Then you need to know more about your audience and their background. From there, you then look at what they respond to (and what they don't).

For all of our clients, we create a brand voice that is used online. This includes tone, vocabulary to be used and words that are never to be said. We develop an entire person/ persona that ensures the comments made are always on-brand, inline with key messages and most importantly - accepted by the target audience in a manner that creates strong relationships.

The Your Social Media Strategy: Pinterest & Instagram workshop will be held on Tuesday October 23 from 6-8pm at the TFIA Textile & Fashion Hub in Richmond.

For more information or to secure your seat visit; tfia.com.au/events

The families who shaped knitwear and coats in Australia

Ah knitwear and coats. Both are very climate driven, and for retailers, it can either be something you can sell well or not at all depending on what your climate is like. Most retailers who experience cold weather can usually do quite well with knitwear and coats, mainly because of the value for money component it offers consumers. And, despite being largely a one-season business, without a doubt, there is an element of demand in these categories due to the fact it's so niche.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a "veteran rag trader" with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry, with Ragtrader also describing Phoebe Garland as a " Power Agent". Between the two of them, Phoebe & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading boutique fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues. Phoebe Garland was one of the judges for The Spirit of the Black Dress in 2012 (LMFF).

As a fashion agent, mention knitwear or coats to a new retailer you are trying to lure into your showroom, and sometimes you can suddenly find them very interested in making an appointment with you. And for over thirty years, there are two family businesses, which have excelled in both these areas. Whilst the guards may have changed, they both still remain family businesses and are still as strong as ever thanks to staying faithful to their customer. While also sticking to what they know best and staying innovative and fresh as times change.

Both Z & P Fashion and Sabena Fashion Group have continued to innovate with two new ranges, this season, including the re-launched La Dame knitwear, with its Italian Merino wool blends as well as the new coat range David Barry, Kesta, Spice & Yazz coats from the U.K, imported and distributed by the very established king of coats, Sabena Fashion Group.

La Dame Knitwear - Z & P Fashion

Z & P Fashion (formerly known as La Dame Manufacturing) is the king of knitwear in Australia. With two successful knitwear labels under their belt, one of course is Zaket & Plover, which was launched in the mid 2000's. The other the very established La Dame knitwear!

Z & P Fashion is run by husband and wife team Chris and Effie Vlahos, with also help from their very loyal staff, Caroline & John who have been working with them for over 20 years. While Chris's sister, Jan also helps out on occasion and Chris's mother popping in for the odd visit. Originally a family business owned by Chris's parents, it's been Chris and Effie who have recently reinvented the La Dame knitwear label.

For winter 2013, La Dame has been given a fresh approach with their signature weaves of Italian Merino wool blends, which are fully machine washable and features a strong fashion component, indicating the label is targeting a younger market. Effie Vlahos is the design brainchild behind the Zaket & Plover label & La Dame label. While Chris's European trained technical skills, is evident with their highly clever knitting techniques in the designs. On the design side, Effie Vlahos maintains, "We make our knitwear for the modern woman who choose to wear quality, Italian wool mix garments with a definite point of difference".

Colour features strongly in the sharp details over several styles in highly commercial designs. While ensuring it's not too tricked up for the over 30's market. The range has evolved with its emphasis on fashion, exceptional quality and very competitive price points. La Dame's history was such a strong seller, my husband, who has had a long association with the company can still recall style numbers from the 90's, when he represented them in South Australia. While you may think you know La Dame, it's definitely time to take another look at this iconic knitwear brand.

To enquire about stocking La Dame contact Z & P Fashion: Tel: 03 9380 9844

David Barry, Kesta & Yazz & Spice coat labels - Imported & distributed by Sabena Fashion Group

Mention coats and there is one company that has been synonymous with coats in Australia. And that is none other than Sabena Fashion Group! Paul Grosman, father of the current Managing Director Phillip Grosman, founded the company in 1950.

Now the business has included several other family members including Allan Grosman, National Sales Manager and the brother of Phillip. While the next generation of Grossman, are Allan's son Adam and his wife Shana Grosman also working in the business, ensuring the legacy will continue on. The business is still thriving with their volume development work for large chain stores, department stores and their own ranges for small boutiques.

While they have been known for their two labels Pretty in Pink & Sabena label for the boutique market, the company's latest labels for independent retailers include David Barry, Kesta, Yazz & Spice all imported and manufactured in the U.K.

Allan Grossman maintains they will eventually all fall under one label thus avoiding confusion with multiple brand names. These new line of coats comprise of the authentic English gabardine (gabardine was invented in 1879 by Thomas Burberry, founder of the Burberry fashion house) in the trench coats.

There are also wool blend/cashmere classic coats as well as puffer jackets in fashionable designs, some with the addition of faux fur trim. The quality and design in these coats are second to none. Allan Grosman states about their new range, "The look is right of David Barry, Kesta, Yazz & Spice, our prices are competitive, our styling commercial, our range of fabrics and colours interesting".

For all enquiries for David Barry, Kesta, Yazz & Spice range of coats - Contact Sabena Fashion Group: Tel: (03) 9419 1633

Interested in your thoughts: What styles are your customers buying in coats and knitwear? Are they looking for basics or fashion?

Email us: info@garlands.com.au
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How are Australian retailers using the in-store experience to drive customer acquisition & engagement

The customer experience. Mere invocation of the words makes seasoned retail marketers misty for the days when they controlled every aspect of the customer's journey from parking lot to purchase. Today, however, the customer experience that retailer's work so hard to create is under siege, thanks to internet-enabled smartphones, barcode scanning apps, and comparison shopping tools. Indeed, the balance of informational power has shifted to consumers, and retailers are scrambling to fend off competition in every aisle of their own stores.

For those retailers hoping to avoid a fate similar to that of Borders Australia, and Angus & Robertson, all eyes are focused on optimisation. Revenue optimisation. Website optimisation. Brand optimisation. Product optimisation. Loyalty optimisation. To survive and thrive, retailers must maximize returns on their existing investments while driving innovation that will keep their brand fresh and their customers loyal.

Lost for many retailers in this pressure-packed environment is another form of optimisation-audience optimisation. Today's retailers are no longer creatures of mass media alone. To thrive and survive, they must earn and own audiences across an amazing array of email, mobile and social channels. The retail brands that can best leverage their consumer touchpoints to build, nurture, and grow their audiences won't just have direct lines of communications to potential customers, they'll have a distinct competitive advantage over competitors who fail to build such audiences.

Read on to find out the results of when they tracked each retailer's efforts at five specific retail consumer touchpoints: (1.) In-Store, (2.) Website, (3.) Email, (4.) Social Networks, and (5.) Mobile Channels.

Visit; exacttarget.com

Digital Exposed - we talk all things e-commerce and the rise of the virtual store with The Grand Social

A virtual shop is no longer a "trend" - it has now become part of everyday retailing. E-commerce and omni-channel are just as much apart of the retail mix as in-store marketing and sales.

The Grand Social opened its virtual doors in 2008 and has since become an industry leader as the first fashion e-commerce business in the world to host smaller online stores, which are owned and controlled by individual brands.

This means when you buy from a designer on the Grand Social, you are buying directly from the label because it's their store. It means that a lot of those hard to find items, one offs and samples that never make it into real stores can find their way onto their site a lot more easily. It also means if the online store doesn't have what a customer is looking for, they can help them to track it down with one of their stockists. Simply drop them an email and they'll be happy to help.

Their success can be attributed to co-founder and co-director, Jean-Claude Abouchar's background in the `technology business'.

"Our content just happens to be fashion. I think a big part of our success has come from the fact that we didn't have a fashion industry background so we didn't start with an existing way of working and we broke the rules of how a fashion business should operate in a traditional retail sense," he said.

We recently caught up with Jean-Claude to bring you this extremely insightful interview that delves into the concept of the `virtual store' first hand; how they connect the Grand Social featured designers with their fans and translate them to sales; and invaluable tips for running an effective omni-channel e-commerce operation.

The virtual shop is no longer a 'trend' - it's now become a part of everyday retailing - how has this changed the retail landscape overall? What kind of future do you forsee for retail?

There's a lot of talk about online stores at the moment as if they are a recent addition to the retail landscape. Whilst it's true that the fashion category online has evolved considerably in the past few years, online stores and the e-commerce category in general are very mature channels. One only look at ASOS which launched in 2000 as a way to get the 'celebrity looks' and how it has evolved constantly over the past 12 years. In terms of the online space ASOS is a veteran. I was talking to someone recently who suggested that this concept of offline/online retail is no longer relevant - that it is all simply retail. I think conceptually this is a pretty good summary of where we are at right now. That doesn't mean the dynamics of each channel (in-store, online, mobile etc) are not different but the point is as a brand you need to have a single-minded proposition and what changes is the way this is brought to life in each channel. The biggest shift has been the change in path to purchase which has taken place across most industries and this has resulted in a far more competitive and time-sensitive retail marketplace. This fragmentation has increased even more with significant growth in mobile in the past 3 years which has put the power literally in the hands of the customer.

I do think there are enormous opportunities in retail. Clearly a lot of brands are doing it tough but the smart ones are taking these challenges as a wake-up call to reassess some of the fundamentals of their business. The basic principles of fashion have not changed - the right product at the right price. As for the future - that's a very big territory. I see brand equity as a key measure of value and it will become more critical as investment in-house brands by majors continues to dilute the category and drive prices down. As a result brands with a clearly defined and ownable position who stick to their core customer will do well. It's one of the reasons we've had success with brands many retailers wouldn't consider stocking.

Data driven decision making is one of the most substantial areas for retail in moving forwards. I have been in the technology business since starting my digital agency Capture in 1997 so I came to the fashion category with a digital lens not a fashion lens. Having worked on hundreds of digital programs for clients data has always been an integral part of our agency business. Mature e-commerce players have been using analytics and customer data for a while now but as the cost of recording and analysing this data has come down significantly in the past 3-4 years this sort of intelligence is now available to anyone who wants it for a fraction of the cost it used to be. It levels the playing field and means any sized business can understand what is and isn't working with their business. For me I see future retailers as creative technologists with access to real-time data driving a lot of their commercial decisions.

The Grand Social work closely with the labels they feature so when you buy from a designer you are buying directly from the label because it's their store - can you explain this concept a little further? And why you took this approach?

In 2006 we had a number of friends and clients who were fashion designers. They had great products, a story to tell and existing fans. As always it was tough to get distribution and unless you were established enough to have orders placed with the majors or larger boutiques it was pretty difficult growing your customers and getting your story out there. Naturally the internet allowed them to do a lot of this themselves and so we helped a bunch of them setup online stores. Most were unprepared for the investment needed and time and effort required to run these online stores. There was a general feeling that they would somehow run themselves but they quickly realised that it was no different to opening a physical store and in many respects a lot more work with the added challenge of technology in the mix. Their store required staffing, customer support, product management, marketing, order fulfilment, dealing with banks etc. So we ended up spending a lot of time supporting them in getting setup and then ongoing assistance helping them dealing with these issues as they came up. We realised that within these challenges lay an opportunity and the idea for The Grand Social was born.

To set some context for our thinking at the time; in 2006 the practice of e-commerce in Australia was fairly immature in the fashion category. Some of the chains had online stores but these were not really sophisticated. As we know not even DJ's or Myer were selling online and Westfield was 5 years from launching. There were a handful of pureplays but no one really focussed solely on Australian designers - and especially not independent and emerging designers. So as a customer looking for an alternative to high street the only choices were local boutiques and these were mainly in Sydney or Melbourne. Outside of these cities choice was limited. This combined with a bunch of brands we thought were pretty interesting gave us a starting point for The Grand Social positioning.

Whilst the business model has evolved since we launched in 2008 the fundamentals remain the same. Our business is about connecting designers with their fans and making this as easy as possible to maintain and grow. We do this by taking all the non-core functions off their hands - which is basically everything except making the product. It's a managed service model where they get their own branded shopfront on our ecommerce platform and we aggregate all of these products and their brand story onto The Grand Social - a retail portal. We look after sales and marketing to our joint customers, as well warehousing, fulfilment, distribution, customer support, returns processing. They have access to substantial infrastructure at a fraction of the cost if they were to do it themselves.

Our world is connected to technology, how do you utilise these channels within The Grand Social marketplace? How important are these social networks to the success of your online store?

There's two questions there - how we use 'technology channels' and 'how important are social channels' to our business. On the technology question - we are in the technology business. Our content just happens to be fashion. I think a big part of our success has come from the fact that we didn't have a fashion industry background so we didn't start with an existing way of working and we broke the rules of how a fashion business should operate in a traditional retail sense. We basically applied the same thinking and strategy to our business the way we do for our agency clients. A core part of this was understanding how we could use technology to drive our business and deliver a great experience to both the end customer and the brands we worked with.

Social channels are important and we need to be part of the conversation but how much this drives sales is up for debate. They are all important for brand health general awareness but it's a competitive channel - especially Facebook. We have had success in promotional campaigns but in terms of transactions it's fairly small. Twitter is more effective at driving conversions as it's more immediate and direct. We've been experimenting with Pinterest but the jury is still out on that one. Along with platforms like Instagram and Polyvore it's simple and low-cost way to get reach but doesn't necessarily convert to sales.

Blogs and bloggers have become powerful members of the media industry - as an online retailer, do you work closely with bloggers now? How? And why?

We've had great success with bloggers and a lot of our brands have great relationships which benefits everyone. We always reach out to about 15-20 bloggers when we have something we think they will be interested in. It's not a highly structured program and because we are a small team the way we work is very much on a personal level.

With so many channels to tap into, which ones do you recommend and insist retailers switch onto now? and why?

There's a tendency to only focus on digital but don't forget the traditional channels of events and PR. We've spent very little on paid advertising in the past 4 years and invested in events and collaborations with lots of different creatives and designers. This exposes us to new audiences and helps us expand outside the existing fashion audience.

Our head office space in Darlinghurst functions as a showroom, events space, gallery, sales etc. We treat it a lot like our digital assets - as a platform available for our brands to use for their benefit to promote themselves and connect with their fans. This in turn translates to new fans for GS so everyone benefits from this approach.

In terms of the digital space - mobile should be a focus. Not mobile apps specifically but ensuring that your online store is mobile accessible (smartphone/tablet) because it's a critical channel and increasingly a decision point for consumers. Just look at Google as an example - more than 30% of searches are now performed on a mobile device. It's the only internet connected device we have with us at all times so your brand and products need to be accessible through it.

Can you offer any tips for running an effective omni-channel e-commerce operation? Or is it all about having the right team?

Have clearly defined roles for each channel in the overall sales and marketing mix. It is not about recreating the same offer in each channel and it's important to play to each channel's strengths. It's less about the team and more about the roles in that team - that's where a lot of businesses get it wrong and they end up paying for it. We've spent a lot of time on our operating model in the past 18 months and part of that was getting really clear about the roles needed and then recruiting the right people for those roles.

There are so many pieces of a collection that never make it to production because the buyers don't pick it up, how has The Grand Social helped to fill this gap? What does this mean for the designers and the shoppers?

GS provides a platform for designers to showcase their entire ranges - not just the 30% a retailer will purchase. For a lot of our designers it's been a great way to really tell their entire story and bring their brand to life which is not possible offline in a physically limited retail space.

As a lot of traditional retailers have come under immense pressure in the past 2 years they've changed their buying strategy to be even more conservative than normal. This has meant that a lot of boutiques especially those that stocked the more interesting pieces in a collection are now defaulting to basics and safe choices. It's resulted in some brands ending up as T-Shirt labels and losing that edge which gave them a unique point of difference. Their online store still enables them to back themselves and put some of those more creative pieces into production. The end result is a wider choice for the customer.

You are set to speak on this very topic of e-commerce at Fashion Exposed Melbourne, what insight do you hope to offer retailers in this presentation?

I hope to demonstrate that everyone now has access to tools and intelligence that can help them run a more profitable business. You don't need to be a major retailer to be a successful business online - you just need to have a clear offer and some basic processes in place to ensure you can deliver a great customer experience.

I also hope it inspires more small businesses and brands to stop putting off their investment online and prioritise it because consumer shopping behaviour has changed and unless they move quickly they are going to be left behind.

See The Grand Social present `DIGITAL EXPOSED - e-commerce' on Monday 27 August at 10.30am during Fashion Exposed.

To secure your seat at this complimentary seminar, register now at fashionexposed.com

Stylehunter.com revolutionises the Magazine

Amanda Martin, editor-in-chief of Stylehunter.com, knows that the fashion world has become an entirely digital space. With the onslaught of social media and its growing presence in our everyday lives, she knows that being online and being successful go hand in hand.

Pioneering new and innovative ways of connecting retailers with their consumers, Stylehunter.com's digital spring summer magazine provides the platform for new and existing brands to showcase the potential of their entire collection.

With the latest in flip form technology, the magazine functions and flips in the same way a normal magazine would, only on the screen of your computer. "The best quality of our online magazine is that it encompasses click to buy functionality, so that if a consumer sees an item they like, they can click on it and be instantly directed to where they can buy it," says Amanda.

Regular print magazines may only feature one or two of your pieces, styled in accordance with the message they want to portray. Doing so, the inspiration and message behind your collection becomes lost in the editorial content surrounding it.

With the Stylehunter.com magazine however, you have the option of showcasing your entire lookbook, whereby consumers can follow the story of your collection and purchase an entire look, rather than a singular piece.

"Collections are meant to be seen as that, as an entire collection. When you take one piece from a story and place it next to elements from other brands, its statement is lost," says Amanda.

"By placing your lookbook within the Stylehunter.com magazine you are giving consumers your entire story and showing them exactly how to wear and style various pieces from your collection, in turn enticing them to make a purchase."

The Stylehunter.com magazine will be published four times a year, in accordance with each upcoming season. You can view their latest spring summer magazine here.

Visit stylehunter.com

Have to have fashion with Holmes & Fallon

Fashion for the mature age group can be tricky, but leading fashion label Holmes & Fallon thinks outside of the box. A regular at Fashion Exposed and very popular with the fashion boutiques, the label is known for it's great use of colour and fabrics without a hefty price tag.

Targeting the 30+ market, the new Winter 2013 collection offers lots of colour injection and a modern range that will appeal to a wide customer while offering retailers value for money and the eye-catching pieces, which are perfect for the window.

I took a moment with Karen Earl, Head of Design and Owner of Holmes & Fallon to discuss the new campaign for Holmes & Fallon for Winter 2013 and what fashion buyers can expect to see.

Karen, tell us about your current collection for Holmes & Fallon for winter. What can buyers expect to see?

As well as our regular range of well-made beautiful quality and unusual styled garments we have introduced a bit of fun and colour for our over 30's customers. We have listened to our agents and our buyers and have given them fantastic prices and a wide selection of styling plus colour. (Hello Queensland - we love you!) We realise that the over 30s don't want to be dull and boring - they are looking for something different at a good price.

You recently embarked on a new look book campaign and photo shoot. Did you find it a worthwhile investment? How different was it from your original shoot.

Our latest photo shoot gives us a chance to show off our new ranges to their maximum potential. As we have expanded our ranges it has given our garments more of an edge and more of a classy look that the garments deserve. They will now have a chance to stand out from the pack. This also flows on to benefit our customers, as they will receive promotional material/photos from the shoot with their stock. Our previous photo shoots did not do justice to our beautiful clothing. So, hopefully, we can now reach more customers who are inspired by the photos and the garments.

In this economy it's all about value for money pieces for the consumer. What is the RRP of some of your pieces you are offering and in what fabrications?

We start with multi-print unusual T-shirt tops that would retail for $44.00. Then we slide into a beautiful 'owl' inspired dress for under $90. Our best selling New York inspired range would sell around $130 per pc. Our customers eagerly await this range as they know they get easy-care, beautiful fabrics plus an edgy design for a price that is certainly affordable.

What inspires you for your ranges? I think that the constant change is what inspires the Holmes & Fallon label. The satisfaction of our boutique buyers saying that our label was the label that sold out first and also the wonderful comments from our beautiful customers whom we have the privilege to dress.

What are you known for in your ranges? Good quality, quirky designs and a lot of love and attention that flows into the label to make it work.

Holmes & Fallon is represented in Australia and NZ and is now showing their Winter 2013 in showrooms.

To make an appointment to view the Winter 2013 contact Holmes & Fallon Fashion Agents below.

Australia:

NSW: Garland & Garland: 0417 210 879 (02) 9699 2777
VIC/TAS: Curran Agencies: (03) 9419 7756
QLD: Marina Jonathon Agencies: 0416 287 287 (07) 3257 3516
SA: Alex Bircher: 0419 812 125 (08) 8365 0247
WA: Rob Powys: 0419 906 286 (08) 9398 6428

New Zealand:

Wellington: Brent Stevens: 021 454 090 (04) 971 6810
South Island & top of North Island:
Norman Malcolm: (03) 685 6140 021 135 1234 027 335 7636

As always interested in your thoughts. What trends do you think will transpire for 30+ age group?

Email us: info@garlands.com.au
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The cult of Cecylia

While we all love a fashion trend, there are some of us who transcend the `latest' and see through `what's hot' to craft their own cult of cool. One such lady is Cecylia of Cecylia.com who has quickly risen to style blogger fame with her sartorial style choices and impeccable taste.

It's ladylike but never stuffy or conservative, and she always adds the Cecylia twist that can transform even the most simplest of pieces into something extraordinary and so signature Cecylia.

We are proud to announce Cecylia.com as a key media partner for Melbourne's Fashion Exposed and concurrent Premiere boutique trade event held this Sunday 26 through Monday 28 August at the Melbourne Exhibition Centre.

Be sure to follow her on twitter and facebook during the 3-day event as she snaps her discoveries.

We took five with the style queen to discuss how Cecylia.com has changed her life; making the career change from a vet to blogger; and her thoughts on traditional vs new media co-existing in fashion.

When did you first decide to launch your own personal style blog? Why?

Three years ago I found myself creatively inhibited working as a veterinarian, and addicted to reading style blogs. I've always had the 'if someone can do it, I can do it' -mentality. And since youth people have commented on the uniqueness of the spelling of my name (I changed it myself when I was given an English name by substituting the 'i' for a 'y'), so Cecylia.com was born.

How has cecylia.com changed your life personally and professionally?

Immensely. I actually blogged about this earlier in the year :) Cecylia.com's mission statement is to showcase my unique and elegant style by mixing vintage and designer pieces. As a result, my style radar has been sharpened, I've become a lot more critical of myself (e.g my appearance, styling, etiquette, etc) and I've started to write 'BLOGGER' on custom travel forms.

Most people would be unaware you are actually a qualified vet - do you see blogging eventually becoming a full time job one day? And would you miss being a vet? Or do you need the balance of both?

I sure hope so! The reason why I studied to be a vet was because although I was blessed to have the marks to study anything I wanted, I resented writing essays, a vet was the only course I knew at the time that didn't involve too much writing. It was ironic since English was my best subject and now I'm a blogger. Sometimes God has better plans. Nevertheless I feel privileged to be a vet and I take my profession very seriously, but I cannot wait to be a full time blogger.

There has been a huge shift in modern media that sees bloggers being recognised globally as huge online influencers with many offered opportunities to work with huge brands that would have traditionally turned to print - why do you think bloggers are getting so much attention? And do you think the two - that being traditional vs new media - can coexist? Why/why not?

Bloggers are independent voices, they are personal, anecdotal, emotional, and that's why they attract readers. Their genuine, passionate and empathetic tones are their magnetic tools. Because blogs are perceived to be more 'real' than print media, they achieve great results with consumers for brands.

I think that the two exist symbiotically. I read both! For me, it's great brand endorsement to read something recommended by traditional print media and then to read an anecdotal report by a blogger. It hones in the message. I would cry if there were no magazines left!

Traditional fashion journalists have often criticised bloggers for being 'too close to the brands they work with' - how do you personally maintain credibility and an unbiased, individual opinion when working with brands for cecylia.com?

I would be very surprised if most fashion journalists are not biased and not loyal to certain clients/labels/designers. That said, bloggers are and should be honest about everything - products, campaigns, events.

Honesty is the key to their readers' hearts. Being a vet, and having had my own boutique, it's not difficult for me to stay objective about brands and products. I only engage with brands that I am passionate about, that my readers would be interested in, and am truthful about my reviews.

What tips do you have for online upstarts hoping to achieve similar success with a style blog?

Research the blog, find out if their values are aligned with yours. Find out more about the blogger, who have they worked with in the past, what results have they achieved in the past. Then contact the blogger, via email, via coffee, express your ideas, visions and goals and discuss ways for you two, collaboratively, to achieve them.

As a media supporter for Fashion Exposed Melbourne, what are you looking forward to most at this year's trade event? Will you also be attending Premiere?

I cannot wait for Fashion Exposed Melbourne and Premiere! Both are so exciting for designers to showcase their new collections to media, buyers and press. This will be my second year of attending, so I feel so honoured to be the official media partner! I am dying to meet the new designers and see the new collections!

What advice do you have for fashion brands hoping to connect with bloggers to represent their collections? Is there a certain approach to take? And is it quite different to traditional media? Why/why not?

I'd say' Go for it!', provided that the brands are clear of their vision and have researched the bloggers. Just make sure that the blogger and their followers suit the brand's image and goals.

Be honest, be generous and be open to new ideas! Approach the blogger as you would a friend who is passionate about your brand, and only great things can stem from that!

Who are some of the brands you have worked with so far? And what kind of opportunities has your blog brought you? From fashion week access, boutique launches, and lunches etc?

There are too many to list. From the top of my head I've been privileged to work with many emerging designers including Kathryn Beker, Sonya Kraan, Sarah Conners, Habbot, and also seasoned labels such as Georg Jensen and Diesel.

My blog has provided me with countless great opportunities from attending fashion weeks around Australia, having lunch with Stevie Dance, to the launch of Georg Jensen's new collection, to winning fashion stakes at Caulfield Races. I have so many blessings to count.

Where do you hope to see cecylia.com in the future?

You can tell I dream big, I would love to see Cecylia.com having a global following, positively influencing style lovers and being able to write 'Blogger' on my custom forms without feeling guilty of not writing 'vet'.

Fashion at your fingertips

Retail is becoming increasingly mobile and it's no secret that Australians are leading the charge globally when it comes to mobile phone usage and m-commerce. A Google internet study last year discovered the mobile internet usage by Australians now rivals that of PCs for activities like social networking and shopping.

An SMH article on the Google research also revealed that behind Singapore, Australia has the highest smartphone penetration in the world at 37 per cent and we're also consuming more apps. Australians have on average 25 apps on their phone (eight of which are paid), versus 23 for the US and Britain.

But despite the increase, about four out of five Australian websites are not optimised for smartphones. Mobile Muse is on a mission to change all that.

Mobile Muse founder, Carol Barton has over 10 years experience in online, working with leading travel media companies Lonely Planet and BBC Worldwide. The company specialises in iPhone and iPad apps and kiosks for the retail, arts and creative sectors, marrying Carol's online product development experience with progressive opportunities in the exciting, fast growing mobile space.

Carol brings her experience in the digital and mobile space to Fashion Exposed with her seminar DIGITAL EXPOSED / MOBILE. Learn how to improve your mobile presence with iPhone apps, iPad apps, m-commerce and other retail mobile technologies. To secure your seat at this FREE business seminar, visit fashionexposed.com

We took five with Carol before the presentation to discover why app's are an important tool for your fashion brand or business; how e-commerce is quickly being replaced by c-commerce (couch commerce); and where she sees retail in the future.

You have over 10 years experience in the travel media industry working with Lonely Planet and BBC worldwide, how did these roles prepare you for your current role as founder of Mobile Muse? Why?

Travel and media publishing were affected very early on by changes to consumption patterns and social media, such as blogs and real time interaction through Twitter. Guide publishing, in particular, is labour intensive, the margins are tight and subject to the whims of foreign exchange. It can also be a very volatile industry. A natural disaster, terrorism, the threat of an epidemic like SARS, can see you back to the drawing board.

This challenging climate forced both companies to strive to reinvent the way thing are done and how technology may enable that. Not that innovation wasn't part of their DNA previously, but there was a very deliberate focus on becoming faster, more nimble and agile. To also experiment and take risks.

That culture has influenced me greatly. I am a very firm believer that you learn more by having products out in the hands of consumers who can help shape it in incremental, iterative stages. Even Apple would never have foreseen the sorts of apps, accessories and uses for the iPhone before launching.

Dealing within the online realm primarily, how important is it for fashion brands and retailers to include app's within their business? why?

It's important to think mobile, whether that includes an app, is dependent on your strategy and objectives.

A mobile phone is an incredibly powerful personal computer, in the truest sense of the word. An app can take advantage of handset features such as location, accelerator, camera, address book, voice instruction and notifications. The camera alone powers so many fantastic features such as the ability to scan and enable augmented reality (overlaying information, such as text, image or video, onto the real world view you see through the camera lens). We're seeing brands doing really innovative campaigns such as scavenger hunts, making shop windows come to life, virtual fitting rooms and adding a multimedia dimension to print products using augmented reality.

There are apps for consumers, but enterprise applications used for internal business or B2B is also a growth area, increasing efficiencies, productivity and collaboration amongst employees.

The key message is to move away from thinking online is a website accessed by desktop computer. That's not the case any more.

Since you launched Mobile Muse, how has the e-commerce landscape changed in Australia? Where do you see it headed?

The term e-commerce is already being replaced by terms like m-commerce and c-commerce (couch commerce).

This is an incredibly aggressive area. The seeds have been there for a while, I think we'll see concepts maturing and becoming more main stream, especially as the features on handsets themselves evolve also.

Over the next few years we can expect to see more of the mobile wallet and frictionless payments, greater use of iPads and tablets in-store as point of sale and recommendation engines, greater interaction between our devices and TV, greater social and local connections, greater intelligence about consumers and their purchasing history, and more sophisticated membership and loyalty schemes. I'll be touching on some key trends in the seminar.

The mobile space is the fastest growing within the online e-commerce environment, how important is it for retailers and fashion brands to be mobile ready? Or should they already be? Why? and what is the consequence if they don't?

It's very important. There is already an expectation from consumers that they should be able to connect with your brand whenever and wherever they are. Retailers need to accept that the behaviours and preferences of their consumers are changing in light of these technologies and be open to change themselves.

It's also important for retailers to think about new and distinct global communication channels. Some are low cost and pretty straightforward. For example, there's a catalogue category within Apple's App Store. Australian consumption of the iPad is significant, however I can count the number of Australian brands present in this category on one hand.

What are some of the exciting projects you are working on at the moment?

We currently produce cost effective iPhone and iPad lookbooks and magazines for clients, but we'll be launching a DIY solution around the time of Fashion Exposed. Stay tuned!

"Because a product can be copied by a competitor, but a brand is unique' - The art of youth marketing with Taboo Group

Kicking off their unique form of youth marketing in 2000, TABOO have since harnessed the power of new media, along with a heady dose of creative nouse, to establish a new generation of marketing application for the modern consumer.

They pride themselves on brand strategy, experiential marketing including guerilla style , creative and design, digital and social media. They have worked with a diverse range of brands from Sportsgirl , Witchery and Mimco to General Electric, Sensis and even National Bank of Australia (NAB).

Taboo Strategy Director, Richard Hack will bring his expertise in youth marketing and social media strategy to Fashion Exposed Business Seminars from 26-28 August at the Melbourne Exhibition Centre. He will present DIGITAL EXPOSED / GETTING SOCIAL on Tuesday 28 August at 10.30am;

"Our world is connected to technology. This seminar discusses the power of blogs, instagram, pinterest, facebook and twitter and how you can connect to your consumer through these platforms".

To secure your seat at this FREE seminar, visit our website, fashionexposed.com

We took five with the new media marketing strategist to discuss the differences between traditional marketing and the Taboo brand of youth marketing; some of the techniques they employ to engage with today's youth market; and the juggling act of running a successful business while tweeting, updating Facebook and posting to your instagram feed.

Richie first rose to prominence in 1992 with his record-breaking performance on television game show ‘Double-Dare'. Host Marc Summers later likened his efforts in the physical-challenge section to Edmund Hillary scaling Mt Everest. Richie remained a darling of the game-show circuit until his retirement in 1997, when he withdrew from competition to focus on his academic studies. With a Bruce Lee like dedication to the not so ancient arts of business academia, Richie has kick punched his way to black-belt status: Bachelor of Business (Marketing), Master of Business Administration (MBA), RMIT Business Planning Competition Runner Up 2007, and Winner of Melbourne University's Entrepreneurs Challenge 2008.

Taboo are youth marketing specialists, outline the difference between traditional marketing and your brand of 'youth marketing'?

In many ways the marketing aspect of what we do still echoes long established principles of marketing theory & brand management. At Taboo we believe in strong brand positioning that directs the product / service's value proposition to consumers. We work hard to deliver campaigns that push top of mind awareness & communicate the right brand associations to the youth audience on behalf of our clients. That's all quite marketing 101, but we believe it's as relevant today as ever.

The difference for us is in the application of the marketing discipline & the means through which you communicate.

The non-traditional elements of our work first come from the creative approach we take to a brief by thinking laterally about a brand's current competitive position & heritage. This is inspired by asking questions such as - what role does this brand / product / service have to play in the lifestyles of youth today? How can it be relevant? Why is it meaningful for the next generation of consumers? At times this even results in us working with clients to evolve the product itself before any further steps are taken.

The second driver of our non-traditional approach is the channels we build into our campaigns. Since Taboo's early days we've embraced the notion of guerrilla marketing that's defined as 'maximum results from minimum resources.' We've always thought of time & money as resources & brand equity, market share or hard sales as results. When targeting the youth, we rarely see the cost benefit equation working from traditional media channels. What you can achieve via budget investments in online, experiential, social media, PR, mobile, etc in comparison to traditional TVC print ad production + media spend just isn't comparable. We don't reject traditional media because it doesn't work, we reject it because it's pretty poor bang-for-buck.

In short, the younger generation will have a non-traditional perspective on your brand, therefore shouldn't you? The younger generation will also communicate with new technologies & consume media across new platforms, therefore shouldn't you?

What are some of the techniques you employ to engage todays' youth market with a product or brand? What are the differences in appealing to youth now than say 20 years ago?

By far the biggest difference today as opposed to 20 years ago is the emergence of mass 2-way communications. Social media platforms, mobile apps, the blogosphere, 'smart' CRM loyalty programs, mass customization, these technologies enable the consumer to communicate with your brand in broadcast. This is an opportunity & a threat that brands now deal with every day. Consumers can unite either for your brand or against it. A spot fire of customer complaints can become an inferno of negative public opinion, while a passionate group of brand loyalists can spark a movement that thrusts your product into the heartbeat of pop culture. Never before have we as marketers had the tools to enter into a dialogue with consumers en masse. 20 years ago we could only talk at a million people, now we can talk with a million people. This is not an evolution of media technology, this is a revolution for marketing.

When it comes to techniques, therefore you can imagine we embrace 2-way communications, where there's an opinion, the youth want it to be heard so we try to enter into a dialogue even with critics & disillusioned customers. We also work to build or foster relationships with expert consumers & the opinion leaders within a brand's target audience. Wherever possible we treat these customers as creative partners & encourage them to take some level of ownership over the brand by creating their own messaging to share with others. Better yet if the youth can be included in the research & development of the products targeted to them.

Our world is connected to technology, how do you utilise these channels within the marketing strategies you devise? How important are these social networks to the success of a campaign?

Critically important - but they're still a tool. Our strategies don't begin with the technology because success isn't an outcome of the technology as much as it's an outcome of the competitive assessment, consumer insight & the creative idea. Similar to the old school method, we then apply that idea across these modern day channels.

The difference is, we don't think creatively in terms of a TVC or an industry award, we think in terms of extreme experiences, word-of-mouth, viral stunts, entertaining education - notions such as this. Our goal is to generate value for consumers not just through the client's product offering but through the campaign itself. If it somehow enhances the lives of your audience, they will share it through their social networks. The way to effectively utilize these new channels is to build a value proposition into the communication plan.

Blogs and bloggers have become powerful members of the media industry - how have you seen this development change the way you market? And do you work closely with bloggers now? how?

Bloggers have brought with them an honesty (sometimes brutal) to the media landscape that has not existed for a long time. As editors or content producers, principally at least bloggers are an independent voice not vested in commercial / corporate interest. This independence is at the heart of what attracts their audience. In 2011, Nielsen's Global Online Survey found that "recommendations by personal acquaintances and opinions posted by consumers online are the most trusted forms of advertising globally." This is the source of blogger power.

It also poses a great challenge - how do you promote a message with a marketing objective attached to it that is directly vested in corporate interest to this powerful group of influentials? The risk is hypocrisy. Bloggers must protect their editorial independence and authenticity while maintaining the trust of their readership.

We've found that the answer is transparency and once again value adding in the campaign. Our blogger initiatives are designed to add quality content, entertainment and relevant education to the blog thereby delivering value to the readership. We try and provide experiences for the readers and promotional offers that are exclusive and tailored. To achieve this you have to have, or build a close relationship with bloggers to understand what they need and what their audience wants that we can provide together. By delivering on that we find a recipe for success.

With so many channels to tap into, which ones do you recommend and insist retailers switch onto now? and why?

Retailers MUST accept that digital channels are now a key success factor for their industry. It sounds silly to have to say that but even today we still meet many retailers that are not accepting of this reality. That's not to say you have to be online and in social and on mobile all at once. Rather, take the time to understand what digital channels your customers want to engage with you via, pick the most important and do it well. Start somewhere. Even if it's purely solid SEO pointing localised traffic to your bricks and mortar locksmith. The best answer to that question is how does your target audience want to communicate or transact with you?

Otherwise, if forced to insist a channel, it's hard to deny the effectiveness of a solid customer loyalty program driven by a CRM that allows you to tailor communications to your various customer segments. Different messages and promotions at different times through a variety of digital channels as provided by a good loyalty platform can have great effect. The multitude of new channels will always be a moving target (EDM, SMS, Facebook, Instagram, Pintrest) but the market intelligence and understanding of consumer behavior over time delivered by good customer relationship data is a blue chip investment for retailers.

The running of any business is already stressful enough, particularly in these economic times, but now on top of servicing your clients in-store, renewing the VM and organising stock, you have to be tweeting or snapping pics of it for instagram along the way - it can be a tricky juggling act. How do you recommend people stay on top of it all while still keeping their business afloat?

Similar to the point above, know that you don't have to be in every channel. Some retailers that have the budgets and the human resources can afford to be everywhere online. If you can't don't try. Pick the channel that's most meaningful for your business and your customers and move to the next once you feel you have mastered it. Have a purpose for your channel that relates to a business objective. If being on twitter isn't going to drive footfall or online sales then you can probably do without it. Ask the question why? Why do you need to be on Pinterest and why should your target audience care or pay any attention if you're there? Quite quickly you may realize there are 2 or 3 key channels that count for you, maybe even just 1.

How can getting social enhance your business and do you believe it will actually streamline? How?

There are a multitude of ways social can enhance your business but two of the most significant are digital word-of-mouth and consumer intelligence.

From that same Nielson survey, 90% of customers worldwide trust recommendations from people they know while 70% trust consumer opinions posted online. Customers will share, tweet, blog, forward and post stories good and bad about how your products and brands integrate with their lifestyles. It's up to you to be part of and help curate the conversation. This is digital word-of-mouth advertising and it's arguably the most effective form of promotion for your business today.

Consumer intelligence is often overlooked as an opportunity presented by social media to enhance your business. We know more about one another than ever before, the information a brand can collect on its target market via social channels would have cost an equivalent annual marketing budget in research 20 years ago. Consumer needs and wants, trends and purchase behavior is the foundation of successfully marketing your business. This information used to be far more difficult to uncover and costly to analyse before social media.

Where do you see retail headed in the future?

Obviously this is a big question. Rather that reel off 5 or 10 trend forecasts maybe a 'for example...'

Let's argue that bricks and mortar chemists have no reason to exist in the future. Why?

We all need drugs once in a while but there is nothing positive about the customer experience of being in a chemist
Most often, the customer already knows what they want and the human service element is purely transaction facilitation
Better yet - the bulk of product is prescribed in detail meaning purchase automation is easy and with repeats future purchases can be streamlined even further - hello subscription model
A new era online chemist provides you a customer profile that tracks all your ailments, remedy's and cures would over time collate a very interesting data set. This data could add value to you as the customer in all sorts of ways, imagine sharing your chemist profile with your doctor, medicare, health insurance provider etc
P.S. digital prescription technology is not far off at all

The point is, walk down your local shopping strip and run that line of thinking. When I do that, I can envisage half the retailers on the street gone and replaced with something else that provides a consumer experience or enhances the lifestyles of those walking down the street. It does not mean that Chemists will not exist, based on the model above they would be making more money in more ways than they dreamt possible. Retail has a bright future, the people that will realise it will be those that think different about it.

BOOK NOW for DIGITAL EXPOSED / GETTING SOCIAL business seminar with Richard Hack of the Taboo Group at Fashion Exposed

Our world is connected to technology. This seminar discusses the power of blogs, instagram, pinterest, facebook & twitter and how you can connect to your consumer through these platforms.

As Strategy Director & co-founder of non-traditional marketing communications agency Taboo, Richard believes that a clear value proposition and meaningful engagement are key to success. Richard & Taboo tailor solutions that deliver return on marketing objectives while building brand equity & assets across the social media landscape.

To secure your seat at this FREE seminar, visit our website, fashionexposed.com

The voice of urban style on the streets

Fashion Journal has been the go-to guide for fashion-savvy trend-setters for over 20 years, showcasing the freshest blend of fashion with a uniquely local feel. Their secret to success lies in their ability to constantly reflect the evolving world of youth and street fashion trends.

They now distribute copies to over 1200 points including fashion boutiques, chain stores, cafes and hair salons for free nationwide seeing FJ become the most accessible guide to what's hot right now in the world of fashion.

We are proud to have FJ on board as media partner for Fashion Exposed from August 26-28 at the Melbourne Exhibition Centre.

We took five with FJ editor, Leah White to discover more about the mag's history; what a day in the life is like at the FJ office; and personal highlights along the way.

When did Fashion Journal first launch as a street fashion magazine? and how has it changed/evolved since it first launched?

Fashion Journal launched in 1991 and was originally a quarterly, free magazine. We now distribute 35,000 free copies nation-wide on the first Friday of the every month. You can pick Fashion Journal up in fashion boutiques, shopping centres, hair salons, cafes, fashion schools, TAFES and unis.

Over the years the format of the mag has changed and evolved. It was originally a larger tabloid format, now the mag is closer to A4 size. This means it's easy to pick up and pop in your handbag while out shopping!

What have been some of the highlights since you started working at Fashion Journal?

Highlights include working with and meeting amazingly talented people, seeing the careers of up-and-coming designers develop and grow, getting to see fashion before it hits the shelves and awesome opportunities such as attending events and tradeshows. Fashion weeks are always a highlight each year too!

Can you take us through a quick version of a day in the life? I can only imagine how busy you are - what does it take to bring together a new FJ edition?

Here's what an average day looks like at our office:

Get into work around 8:30am and first stop - the coffee machine! We usually have a little team meeting/catch-up in the morning to chat about what everyone is up to for the day. I'll catch up on emails in the morning and then I'm usually out and about for the day in Melbourne (and Sydney at least one or twice a month) to meet our advertising clients, PR agencies, designers etc.

Then I'm back to the office to work on compiling the editorial for the month's edition and other admin tasks which I won't bore you all with! Our days also involve: model castings, meeting with photographers and stylists, planning photoshoots, shooting editorials and product shots in our studio, attending events and launches and much more. No day is the same - the pace is generally fast, but always fun!

You are a media partner for the next Fashion Exposed Melbourne, what are you looking forward to most at this year's show? Will you be attending Premiere also at the Royal Exhibition Building?

At this year's Fashion Exposed, besides just checking out the amazing talent on show I am looking forward to the Live Look Book fashion shows. They are a really interactive way to see the product. I imagine it's also an invaluable way for fashion buyers to see what the garments actually look like on.

Why are these events an important part of the Australian Fashion industry?

I think trade shows are an immensely important part of the industry, making collections extremely accessible to retail buyers as well as giving emerging designer a platform to showcase their ranges to the industry. Fashion Exposed is a great place to get noticed and seems to have a great history of supporting up-and-coming designers.

There have been huge changes to the shopping landscape in Australia with the rise of e-commerce, and FJ have a huge online presence to complement the print edition - do you think this balance is what's required for retailers also?

Definitely! I really think it's about giving consumers a choice as to how they shop - letting them choose the shopping experience that suits them to stay competitive in the digital age. Similarly, it's really important for fashion media to stay relevant and offer readers an experience which encompasses print and online.

What's in store for the future of FJ? What exciting projects do you have in the works?

Our website is currently having a facelift and we are pretty excited about MSFW which is just around the corner!

See more and read more of Fashion Journal online, at fashionjournal.com.au

The Net-a-Porter for kids

Almost five years ago on a busy Saturday afternoon in central London, husband and wife team Alex Theophanous and Alexa Till had a 'eureka' moment. The proud parents saw a niche in the online shopping market that catered to higher end brands for kids and thus AlexandAlexa.com was born.

Since then, the kids clothing site has become a premium shopping destination for parents globally with access to all the best kids brands in one place. And just last year, The Independent UK labelled the site a 'net-a-porter for under 14 year olds'.

"We strive to make our website an attractive, editorial style shopping destination, which is easy to navigate, premium in its content, and has an aspirational aesthetic overall," said Alex and Alexa. "This model has drawn comparisons to other industry premium e-tailers such as Net-a-Porter, which is obviously a huge compliment as it's a great brand."

Over 200 brands are featured on the site from trendy high street styles to prestigious heritage brands such as Burberry and Chloe, and the secret is in the mix.

"The big name design houses were key in putting us on the map with customers, but now we are approaching our fifth birthday and are more established, we feel like we constantly want to offer customers more, and refresh the offer, keeping it original," they said.

"Our buyers are out and about scouring the globe for the best premium brands across fashion, toys and sports. We listen to our customer, and what they want. As consumer needs and wishes change and develop, we try to ensure our buy and product range reflects this."

AlexandAlexa.com further inspire customers with a click-and-buy online fashion magazine, featuring professional editorial content, high-end photoshoots and magazine style editorial content, along with practical tips from respected journalists and industry-insiders alike.

"Offering customers extra content that is inspiring is what we are all about," they said. "Everything we do goes back to the core of our business objective - to save parents time through a premium, enjoyable shopping experience.

"Parents want to see what products will look like in a lifestyle situation, so we have a dedicated team who work on photo shoots and the creation of aspirational, beautiful content."

And the reponse has been overwhelming.

"We get great feedback on the magazine, on our shoot images, and also on the video content we produce for the site. It's all about giving parents and customers something extra, and a reason to return to the site and shop with us again."

Alex and Alexa say the buying structure is very simple. They listen to their customers and buy what they are asking for. Over and above that, they are always looking out for new, exciting brands that they believe will offer their customer something exceptional.

"We operate a scheme called 'Be our Buyer', where brands from a variety of territories are trialled on the site, and then voted for by our customers," they said. "The brands our customers react the best to, then become fully fledged brands, which we stock season to season."

They stylish pair regularly attend a range of trade and industry shows throughout the year to ensure their offering is the very the latest in kids fashion, toys and sports.

So why did they choose an online store over bricks and mortar?

"The online model works really well, and it suits our business objective. We can save parents time and give them everything they need in one, easy to navigate destination."

When it comes to the next big trends, Alex and Alexa inform us that we'll be seeing a few of the womenswear catwalk trends filter down through the kids ranges.

"We have a wide range of brands, which all tap into different trends. Many brands do look to womenswear catwalk trends for inspiration for their children's collection, and you can quite clearly see where they have interpreted a main trend into their range. For autumn/winter 2012, some of the trends we have seen filter down include metallic, print, vintage and sixties."

One of the key differences with their online offering is their commitment to free UK and worldwide delivery on orders over 70 pounds, which is key for any business entering such a competitive market place.

"As we are all about making the shopping experience as enjoyable and engaging as possible, we want our customers to return to shop again, and make further purchases. Offering incentives such as free shipping gives the customer something over and above a standard level of customer service, and hopefully, they will come back to visit our site again."

This also goes for mobile shopping and providing an omni-channel experience with their e-commerce model. Alex and Alexa say they are currently in the process of developing their mobile site which will be going live in the near future.

"We think it is imperative to keep up to date with what customers want," they said.

Despite all they are currently doing, Alex and Alexa are always thinking about the future and recently ventured into several new territories, including toys, sports and launching their own private label, Kickle.

"With these projects underway we want to grow the business and work on getting the brands and products on board that our customers would like to see. We are always looking out for new and emerging children's brands across a range of territories, so would love to expand this further also."

Visit alexandalexa.com

WIN: NEW FASHIONTREND 'METROPOLIS'

FASHIONTREND Australia has launched a new Issue showcasing MBFWA and the Fall Winter collections direct from Milan and New York. Dedicated to the 'city streets', METROPOLIS is laced with retro echoes and fearless edge.

Discover a highly collectable Issue that unfolds into 180+ pages of era-defining style.

EXPOSED Online has 3 Issues to GIVEAWAY!

Simply `like' Fashion Exposed on Facebook and tell us why you're a city girl at heart - visit, facebook.com/FE.TradeFair

The new METROPOLIS issue is out now. Available at MAG NATION and leading newsagents nationally, visit fashiontrend.com.au

New iPhone App Driving Shoppers Back Into Stores - Innovative Solution for Bricks and Mortar Retailers

With the increase in online competition and overseas brands continuing to enter the local market, the Australian retail industry has been going through a tough trading period. In an attempt to offer an innovative solution, four passionate and highly motivated entrepreneurs combined their resources to develop a new iPhone app that using smart technology to help drive increased foot traffic, loyalty and revenue for bricks and mortar stores.

MiiBrand, pronounced "My Brand", uses location-based technology to encourage customers with special offers when they are close to the physical stores. They can also keep up-to-date with in-store activity and gain instant access to sales and exclusive offers through their smart phone.

It also taps into the emerging trend of gamification, rewarding customers with better offers for engaging with brands by taking actions such as sharing offers on social networks like Facebook and Twitter, checking in at stores via the iPhone app and answering simple questions from brands called 'Insights'.

When customers join MiiBrand they are provided with a choice of which brands they would like to follow. Once they follow a brand they automatically become a 'Follower', and as their level of engagement and interaction with a brand increases so does their 'status'. Levels include `Groupie', 'Entourage', and `Celebrity'.

The App has already secured 20 premium local and international fashion brands including Life with Bird, Diesel, Sportsgirl, Witchery, Seed, Tigerlily, Superdry, Gorman and Zomp.

We took five with two of those brands, Sportsgirl and Life with Bird to quiz them on how the new MiiBrand App will benefit their retail business; what their current strategies are for attracting customers in-store; and how important it is to offer a `truly omni-channel' experience.

You are considered one of Australia's leading brands when it comes to your 'omni-channel' retail model - how many channels do you operate under Sportsgirl now? and how different is this to manage compared to your traditional bricks and mortar retail stores?

Sportsgirl's digital offering includes our website, our mobile site, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest. The service and brand expectations of our digital channels are no different to those in our bricks and mortar stores. Our customer expects the same level of engagement, experience and service across all brand touch points;

Do you think Australia is starting to catch up with Europe and US as far as online shopping technology and delivery? Where do you think we stand internationally in this area?

Challenge is good and it's important for growth. Australia has risen to the occasion and will continue to meet expectations in relation to online shopping technology and delivery.

You already have a popular presence on the high street as an iconic Australian brand, and now with your online offering you seem to have everyone covered - will you always keep the two retail models? or do you think online will overtake bricks and mortar in the future? What's your forecast?

There are no plans to change our current offering. Our digital channels are used to support our in-store offering and vice- versa. The two models work hand in hand with each other and enable us to offer our customer a truly omni-channel experience.

Our Chapel Street store, home to the Sportsgirl interactive mirror successfully blends together the online and in store experience, enabling our customer to share her fitting room experience via social media (Facebook and twitter) as well as shopping from the Sportsgirl website.

You have just signed up to take part in the MiiBrand new app that uses online technology to encourage consumers to follow their favourite brands and keep up to date with sales and offers - you already have a strong online community, why do you need this app? what do you think it will offer that your other networks don't?

Sportsgirl's mobile offering has seen positive growth over the last 2 years, and we know how important mobile is to our customer and are open trailing opportunities in the mobile space.There are a lot of players in this field at the moment, it's important to pick an offering that is right for your brand.

When MiiBrands approached us we saw this as another opportunity to further merge our online and offline together. What we like about their platform is the messages we can share with our customer are relevant to both the online experience and in-store offers as well as in store events relevant to her closest store.

The appeal of mobile channels to our customer is engaging where our customer is. It is about being in her world as opposed to her fitting into ours. MiiBrand allows us to take this one step further and pin point deliver targeted messages to our customer in relevant locations. It's about being connected, having a share of pocket, being able to engage with your customer in a meaningful way in their environment.

Do you think MiiBrand and other apps such as this will help retailers who don't have a strong online presence yet? how?

We are trialing MiiBrand as part of our overall digital offering. It certainly opens up the opportunity for a digital and relevant conversation with your customer.

What's in store for the future of Sportsgirl both online and in-store?

We are working on a number of exciting projects. Watch this space.

Part 2: New iPhone App Driving Shoppers Back Into Stores - Life with Bird interview

In part two we chat to Life with Bird husband and wife design duo, Bridget McCall and Nick Van Messner on how they successfully juggle their flagship bricks and mortar boutique with an online store; the importance of giving customers the `whole experience'; and how MiiBrand App and online technology will continue to evolve the online element of their brand which is the fastest changing and growing area of their business.

As operators of both bricks and mortar boutiques and an online store, how do you successfully manage both? are they different customers from in-store to online?

Obviously the main difference is that online can reach a much broader audience to our four retail stores. I would say they are one in the same customer that shop online and buy from our stores depending on how tech savvy they are, its just that we have the opportunity to sell both Nationally and Internationally through our online boutique.

We have one staff member who manages the online store and various other media platforms internally at head office, where as we have a manager and staff at all stores. The staff that run and manage each for these are quite different and require quite a different skill set and different attributes even though essentially they are all sales related.

As a designer brand, your pieces are crafted with high quality fabrics and attention to detail, do you find bricks and mortar is still an essential element for people to touch and feel your product? please explain.

It's incredibly important to give customers the whole experience of being able to touch and feel and wear our clothes. In saying that, we also feel that if you know the brand, and know our fit then its just as easy to buy online. Some things work better online than others. For us, tops, dresses and accessories do better than bottoms for instance, but once people have owned the label before then they find it easier to confidently buy in to something if the fit is the same.

We also treat our online like a fifth store so we find that customers often try things on at store level but may want to think about it and then buy online a couple of days later. It seems to be becoming a more regular way of doing things. I think people often casually shop the strip and then like to order and have something delivered- people seem to love the idea of a 'gift' to ones-self turning up with the post man. People are also more time poor so online shopping gives them the option of buying without taking up too much time. So overall we hpe to offer different experiences to those that require different things whether it be the touch and feel of something, or the option to buy no fuss online quickly.

Do you find one is more successful than the other? why/why not?

Both are treated as retail for us, but that is where the comparisons generally stop. At the bricks and mortar end of the spectrum your dealing with larger overheads including staffing, wages, rents and so on, where as our online overheads are much smaller. In terms of one being more successful than the other, they aren't comparable in their set up, just that the bottom line at the end of the day has a good profit margin and both avenues do for us which is great!

You have just signed up to take part in the MiiBrand new app that uses online technology to encourage customers to follow their favourite brands and keep up to date with sales and offers - with both sides of your business already covered, why do you need this app? What extra incentive do you think it will offer that your other channels don't?

Online is definitely the fastest changing and growing area of our business. You'd be completely naive to say that you already have it covered and don't need to change and nurture it with the times. MiiBrand is really exciting because its at the forefront of something new allowing us to interact on a new level with our customers. It's a really efficient way of promoting and marketing new deliveries, flash sales and promos to people that want to be targeted, and to those in the right area at the time.

The thing about online alerts and marketing in general is that your sending your whole data base information when they don't necessarily want to be bothered all the time. Miibrand targets those who do at the right time and place.

Do you think MiiBrand and other apps such as this will help retailers who don't have a strong online presence yet? how?

Absolutely. There is no reason why it wouldn't enhance any labels brand awareness within the market place. Growing your reach to the public is what it's all about.

What other tactics have you employed to in still brand loyalty and keep your existing customers/fans returning instore/online?

Customer loyalty is a big one for us. We have VIPs we want to look after and reward for their loyalty to the brand, and we do that by letting them know before the general public about upcoming events, special discounts and so on. A lot more people want to be alerted via text and email about these benefits so we see a lot more people joining up to our data base monthly. We also like to offer free shipping and returns options online so that encourages people to buy without any risk.

What's in store for the future of Life with Bird both online and in-store?

We're working on bettering our current online systems and the content we provide so to offer the best service and experience possible. We do the same at store level too with constant training and rewards for our staff. Customer service is as important as the product. We're working on all levels to create synergy between our online and retail in store experiences as we see both extremely important to the future of our business.

"What consumers are wanting in Australian fashion ... convenience, choice, & value for money"

While the media talks about declining retail sales and the push towards online shopping, we don't often speak from the consumer perspective. Aside from consumer confidence in spending being affected by the economic uncertainty, there are other issues, which are affecting retail sales. So today I speak to you as a shopper, and I am definitely one without a doubt. My husband jokes his theme song is "The very thing that makes you rich, makes me poor " by Ry Cooder. And yes I love to shop online.

Now before you jump down my throat for being disloyal, let me explain why. When I first had a baby I had a limited time span, I couldn't spend the hours shopping like I did in those single days, I was always on a short time frame and nothing has changed. I also don't like to be kept waiting, and I find that I am always waiting in bricks and mortar stores for staff to appear. I also don't have time to go to five different shops to see a small variety and limited ranges of the brands I am after. As an avid shopper, let me explain to you my recent frustration with a purchase.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a "veteran rag trader" with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry, with Ragtrader also describing Phoebe Garland as a " Power Agent". Between the two of them, Phoebe & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading boutique fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues. Phoebe Garland was one of the judges for The Spirit of the Black Dress in 2012 (LMFF).

Recently I had a rather unfortunate attempted shopping experience trying to purchase a pair of luxury designer glasses. I rang the Australian distributor's head office 5 times, only to get put through to the wrong department on each occasion and yes I rang back 5 times! Not many would! I was thoroughly fed up when I finally got through to someone, the lady on the phone wasn't very sympathetic and when I complained, she actually said to me "What do you want me to do about it? ". She then explained to me she could not tell me the exact retailer who stocked the particular style I was after. She could only tell me which store stocked the brand, and then gave me a list, which would involve me driving all over Sydney. Give me a break! (I am such an obsessive shopper, I had actually already driven to 4 optometrists already looking for these styles, including over the Sydney Harbour Bridge. (Only Sydney people know the dedication of driving over the bridge).

As a wholesale agent, I found this rather laughable. Because if a member of the public rang me, I would instantly look up to see which retailer bought this style and give them their contact details making it easy for the consumer. In fact, we did have a member of the public once ring and we asked three different stockists/retailers to get in the styles they were after, and all refused. Despite the stock being available from the manufacturer and they could get into store within three days. So we ordered the styles in ourselves and charged the R.R.P for the goods to the customer and made a quick $450 for less than 10 minutes work as well as delivering the goods to the customer's home.

Customer service, like manners cost nothing. In fact, the customer who wanted the garments was quite elderly and her daughter who helped chose her garments for her would have probably shopped online to buy them, proving there's an opportunity for elderly products to be online, especially brands they know.

Getting back to my glasses experience, let me give you an example of the difference in price from Australia to purchasing overseas. These glasses retail at $529 for the frames, plus it would cost me another $200 for my prescription in Australia, Total of $729. While on the overseas Internet site, they had the full 2012 collection and are open 24 hours (note: convenience & choice) I could get the exact same pair from an authorized overseas retailer for $420 including my prescription and shipping (note: value for money). Would you honestly blame me for buying online? The price difference is significant. Value for money, ease, convenience, and choice is what buying online offered me.

Now as a consumer, I would have preferred to buy it in Australia and supported Australian retailers. But the opportunity for internet retailing with a broad choice in Australia is still very limited and dare I say it, over priced in many instances. The point is the average consumer doesn't care where they buy something, as long as it's quick, hassle free, an easy, safe transaction and offers value for money. I would love to be able to go into an Australian retailer store have a look and know they have an online store where I can buy something else another time, i.e.: sitting in bed with my laptop usually late at night (note: when husband is asleep). Did I mention it's a lot more discreet than walking out with big shopping bags and getting glaring looks from my husband?

Retailing has changed. It's all about engagement with a customer and being adaptable in this difficult retailing climate. Interestingly for the past 4 years Leona Edmiston, who has 14 bricks and mortar boutiques has been developing her online sales and says the online boutique is her best performing store. According to Leona Edmiston's General Manager, Melissa Macalyk she claims, "I can see how retailers without online stores would be struggling".

Here are my tips for offering customers choice, ease, convenience and value for money.

Ensure you are offering a wide choice for the consumer in the brands you buy. Don't buy a tiny amount of 20 different brands. Don't ask for exclusivity when buying a brand unless you are prepared to buy a range strongly, in depth, and you can pay your bills promptly within the time period of invoice. Strong orders and good payers ensure exclusivity make no mistake. While it's fine to initially try a small bit of a label, it's not ok to ask for exclusive supply if you can't support the label properly or worse not pay your bills. Don't be a "Boutique Terrorist".

Don't charge shipping or if you do, it's got to be low cost shipping. It's a huge turn off for a consumer adding this onto the end of the bill. Build it into your margin on the non-branded products, so the consumer won't even know. I only buy from sites that offer free shipping or low cost shipping. The ones that stick $30+ for shipping a tiny package are just greedy.

Have strong product knowledge of the products you stock. I love walking into a boutique and have an intelligent conversation with sales staff when they have full product knowledge of what they are selling. It's so rare! It builds up loyalty between you and the consumer. Educate your staff on the label's history, fit and all the things they need to know. It helps secure sales and gives them credibility as sales people.

Be helpful, and give the benefit of the doubt to a customer. Overseas operators particularly in the U.K offer outstanding customer service and a great free return policy, be the same. Don't argue over a return; give the customer the benefit of the doubt unless they are a serial offender. Trust me, as a consumer I hate returning stuff, but I will if I really have to. If it's faulty, send it back to the manufacturer. The retailer nor consumer nor the agent should not to have to carry the loss if there are quality issues or manufacturing faults.

When buying international overseas labels, ensure you are not being undercut by cheaper pricing from overseas international retailers. Ensure the distributor who imports the overseas product you are interested in, has an agreement with the manufacturer which prohibits the sale of goods being sold overseas cheaper to Australian customers. Most distributors should have this covered and if they don't, don't buy from them. Otherwise you will be the retailer, who has the consumer trying on the product in your shop and buying it cheaper overseas. Seriously if you were a consumer wouldn't you want the best price?

Don't use the excuse "My customers don't buy online". It's not about your existing customers; it's about engaging new customers to boost retail sales. The most searched brand on my website is the oldest brand I represent and I kid you not, every week, without fail it appears on my website report and the target market is the elderly. Why? Because it's because it's such a strong brand. They will buy brands online they know the fit of. And customers are definitely shopping online for fashion as ASOS.com takes 1 million dollars worth a week out of Australia as well as many other overseas operators.

Don't be stuck in your ways or be bureaucratic. Be helpful, think outside of the square. Got an elderly local customer who wants to buy something but can't get into the shop? Drop in the garments if it's not far from you and pick up the cash. Remain flexible and willing and make exceptions. It's probably quicker sometimes than waiting for the consumer to come in if they are busy and you get the money.

Get online, it takes time to build up your online business and you need to market it through Facebook, Twitter and the latest new addictive Pinterest. Offer competitions and post photos. You need to get a lot of people to "Like" your page, so start advertising your page through Facebook which is very affordable and you can target worldwide very cost effectively. Ask for decent photos from your manufacturers and distributors to help you. Do not underestimate social marketing.

Look at the 'value for money' pieces for consumers. Definitely not saying it needs to be cheap, but it does have to offer value for money. Cheap stuff is everywhere so the customer is looking for value for money pieces. I am still shocked to see boutiques carrying pieces retailing over $1000 dollars in this difficult economy in Australia. Yes it's fur and yes it's silk or whatever, but usually it's not a brand and the majority of customers won't pay for it. For those prices you are competing with big brand international labels. I know which label I would rather pay for at that price and true luxury shoppers usually buy overseas. High end is such a small component in Australia and very limited volume in terms of sales. Few can nail it like Madam Virtue & Co in Melbourne with their archival (not vintage) luxury overseas high-end brand designer pieces you are unable to buy elsewhere. (Dean Hewitt, owner, was recently awarded the Lord Mayor's Commendation for his and Madam Virtue & Co's contribution to the business community and Melbourne's fashion.) Fantastic stuff.

One of the best things about Internet shopping is being able to buy a gift for someone else, have it wrapped and shipped to someone from the convenience of your living room. I will do anything I can to avoid the dreaded long queues and staff in the post office. More and more people are shopping online for gifts.

A survey in the July 2012, Australian Women's Weekly - 657 readers revealed their experience of the Australian Fashion Industry

- 42% find it hard finding clothes that fit

- 57.1% not happy with the selection

- 72.5% buy Australian designer clothes

- 72.5% say clothes are too expensive

- 50% say they shop online

What are you consumers saying to you? Interested in your views.

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Images of Madam Virtue boutique. Photography by Meagan Harding.

6 hot digital trends transforming the fashion industry

Fashion was very slow to adapt to our new hyper-connected reality, but has in a very short time managed not only to catch up but also innovate in the ways tech can be used to give an time-tested but fast-paced industry a lift. In the words of Heidi Klum, in fashion, much like in tech, "One

day you are in and the next you are out", so lets take a look at some of the hottest trends right now:

Screen shot 2012 06 27 at 4.43.27 PM 6 hot digital trends transforming the fashion industry

1. The reinvention of runway shows

Fashion shows were always at the heart of fashion and part of why fashion was so reluctant to give in to social media, as the high level of competitiveness between designers and maybe a touch of diva attitude demanded top secrecy surrounding the shows.

Backstage: Now designers welcome the "intrusion" backstage and are the first to tweet out first looks. Oscar de la Renta crowdsourced runway coverage for his Spring 2012 collection live on his Tumblr and live-pinned his Bridal show on Pinterest. Burberry, a brand that has become the leading example when it comes to digital and fashion, hired photographer Mike Kus to present its Instagram followers with a real-time photo feed during its September London runway shows, while it tweeted animated GIFs of backstage scenes and first looks.

Front row: The front row has also transformed: among the editors and celebs, bloggers have secured their seats and now "common" influencers from the land of Social Media, like the winner of the Rebecca Minkoff Runway Design Challenge on Polyvore, start reserving their seats as well. We've seen influence on social media become the golden ticket into exclusive fashion events, and a FNO party in Florida by Bal Harbour Shops, where the doors opened only for people with a Klout score above 40.

The show: The direction of shows has also changed and adopted a more cinematic approach. In the latest season of Tyra Banks' America's Next Top Model runway show, the two finalists took part in a fantasmagoric show for Forever 21 where the models interacted with projections. Always ahead of his time, back in 2006 Alexander McQueen used a hologram version of Kate Moss that modeled a dramatic organza gown, seemingly appearing out of the air inside an empty glass pyramid. Last year Burberry revisited this trend and used a mix of real models and holograms to present its collections on the occasion of its Beijing store opening. German designer Stefan Eckert has collaborated with motion graphics designer Tim Joeckel for his latest fashion show to present his clothes exclusively on a virtual model in the world's first 3D hologram fashion show.

Almost all of the shows nowadays are broadcast live, often in 3D ( Burberry, Hugo Boss, Castelbajac) but how long before you have holograms modeling the latest collections right in your living room or in selected locations all over the globe? This way the runway show will become more open but also a more intimate experiences where consumers can revisit a look, watch it walk down the runway again, and examine it in detail with a 360-view.

Shop straight from the runway: Opening up the runway shows to the public has affected the system of buying, as well as the cycle of production. Burberry allowed attendees of the London Fashion Week runway show special events streaming at global Burberry boutiques in spring/summer 2011 to order items right off the runway through an iPad application and get them much earlier before the same items are scheduled to arrive in the shops.

Pre-ordering from the catwalk, as well as analysing the looks that got the most positive buzz online, is an excellent way for both designers and buyers to get a sense of which might be the strongest looks from the show. In this way tech is helping fashion revitalize a very old trend - trunk shows and private views for VICs ( Very Important Customers) - on a much greater scale. Moda Operandi (which stocks many high-end designers like Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs) offers online trunk shows, as well as from-the-catwalk ordering.

Members-only e-commerce subscription site StyleMint.com recently hosted a live shopping event on its Facebook page that enabled shoppers to purchase apparel at discounted prices, while also interacting with the brand. By adding social elements (styling tips customized to your shopping profile) and virtual shopping assistance, brands could take personalised couture to a new level.

To read the next 5 hot digital trends, visit thenextweb.com

Enhancing the consumer experience - Melbourne Central fuse tradition with technology to motivate shoppers

There is no doubt we live in a turbulent economy, globally, and fashion retail is probably one of the sectors being hit the hardest. But one major shopping mall has taken action to prove that retail isn't dead yet - customers just need motivation to shop again.

If we were to believe the media reports, the renowned Melbourne Central should be in dire straits. But while the past 12 months haven't been without their challenges, it's this very test that has seen their centre succeed with significant changes that reflect the needs of the future consumer and focus on enhancing the shopping experience.

EXPOSED Online spoke with Justin Shannon, General Manager, The GPT Group's Melbourne Central recently to discuss the strategies they've taken to combat these changes; how they plan to engage with the tech-savvy consumer; and their tips for retailers battling against online shopping.

As one of the most renowned retail centres in the heart of Melbourne, how has the last 12 months been? What have been the major changes you've noticed in the retail sector?

The retail industry in Australia has certainly experienced some significant changes which are a reflection of the evoloving consumer. We think shoppers are looking for a broader experience - something which you can't find online. We have a program of activities which have proven to be really successfull in engaging consumers at Melbourne Central.

Most recently we held the One Day Shopping Festival and we had our largest foot traffic this year with over 180,000 consumers entering Melbourne Central in one day. The One Day Shopping Festival was all about enhancing the shopping experience - we had style workshops, pop up bars, live performances, speed dating events and the opportunity for shoppers to redeem special discount offers and retailer promotions. These were all receved really well and confirmed that bricks and mortar stores are still very much alive and important.

Despite negative reports of bricks and mortar retail sales continuing todecline, Melbourne Central recently announced several new retailers to its centre in the past 6 months including the new Ksubi store. Do you think retail is here to stay? Why?

Melbourne Central has been proud to welcome many first to market retailers to the centre over the past six months including the Nike flagship store and the first Australian and third global Converse store. In addition many typical strip retail stores have launched in centre such as Ksubi, Nique and Jolie and Deen.

Bricks and mortar stores definitely still have a home in Australia however retailers and shopping centres need to enhance the consumer experience and give them something they can't get online.

One example of this is Melbourne Central's introduction of QR code technology which aimed to satisfy the shoppers technological desire through their smart phone, offering exclusive offers and content and pushing traffic back into store.

What initiatives have you put in place now and plan for the future at MC to combat the growing online shopping trend?

Our focus is on enhancing the consumer experience. We've recognised for many years now that it's really important to adapt to the tech-savvy consumers needs and provide them with an interactive and engaging consumer experience which meets their digital needs.

Melbourne Central recently finished the final stages of their redevelopment and have launched the Dining Hall and Melbourne's newest shopping percinct the `Corner'. We continually add value for the customer with wifi throughout centre, the new parents retreat and kitchen garden, which is a fantstic break out space for CBD shoppers to relax and escape the hustle and bustle.

What advice do you have for retailers who are battling to compete against online? What changes or improvements can they make in-store to bring people in and keep them coming?

It's all about focusing on what motivates shoppers. The new consumer is empowered by technology and is chasing engaging and relevant information on brands. We try to add value to our consumers and retailers by creating events which are useful such as styling workshops, music performances, one day shopping festivals with exclusive offers and giveaways.

It allows for us as a business to be 100% focused on the customer experience and to live up to GPT's vision of creating environments that sustain and enrich people's lives, which in this case is the consumers visit to Melbourne Central.

FaceBook and Twitter promotions are being credited for promoting brands direct to their core consumers, have you seen this in action at Melbourne Central? and do you see this as key to any marketing strategy going forward?

Obviously Social Media tools have become a part of everyday life and influence the way we interact with each other, brands and other businesses. We are able to have a two way conversation with consumers through our social media tools which is great - they can immediately hear about in-centre events, activities and retailer promotions and we can immediately hear and respond to any feedback they have about our centre and our retailers.

Melbourne Central has also launched Living Melbourne - a Melbourne Central magazine - as part of our long-term marketing plan which aims to extend far beyond the commercial elements of the shopping centre. In a fresh new approach, Melbourne Central is highlighted as a destination through communication of the centre's arts, culture and fashion activity.

It's a tool which helps our retailers and celebrates Melbourne Life including the cities arts, culture and the hidden treasures from the city's streets and laneways.

Do you think Visual merchandising is crucial to a boutique? why?

Yes, visual merchandising is key to getting consumers into the stores. We do everything we can to get shoppers to the centre and then our retailers need to do everything they can to attract them in store. Catching a consumers eye by showcasing the latest offering or designer collaboration is a really important step in differentiating yourself to a customer.

How can retail compete in an increasingly competitive market?

Embrace new technology and use this to enhance the consumer experience, understand the consumer needs and provide them with an evolved shopping experience which goes above and beyond the online shopping offer. Retailers also need to provide exceptional customer service and customise the experience for their shoppers so that they are catering towards every need.

We also have a responsibility to ensure our places are presenting as best as they can and we are continually developing and evolving the in centre experience.

How do you think the influx of big international retailers such as Zara and Topshop (with H&M rumoured to be looking at potential sites) coming to Australia will impact the industry?

This has the potential to be extremely positive for the industry. Customers can currently purchase these brands online anyway so by setting up in strips and centres it can assist in driving online shoppers back into stores. The big brands, such as your likes of Zara, Topshop etc will also benefit those located around them.

We have seen first hand the benefits that big international brands can bring with GAP opening their third Australian store at Melbourne Central last December. Whilst such international retailers have an effect on the market share of retail in Australia, we maintain the view that products that enhance the customer experience and attract them into bricks and mortar stores is a positive for Australian retail and in the case of Melbourne Central, given we position ourselves correctly, enables us to leverage off this increased consumer activity.

The feel good mid-year moments in the fashion industry in 2012

Where has this year gone? We are almost half way through the year and what an interesting year it's been so far. So many developments in the industry with Premiere Boutique Trade Show merging with Mercedes Benz Fashion Week for 2013, and seeing how retailers are faring adapting to the new retail climate. Some are doing a fabulous job, and some are struggling. And some need to be highlighted for their efforts.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a "veteran rag trader" with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry, with Ragtrader also describing Phoebe Garland as a " Power Agent". Between the two of them, Phoebe & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues.

Got to say, I had a fantastic experience recently with an independent fashion boutique Vellaros Boutique, on a particular jacket I was lusting after. They not only had the cheapest price, but also shipped it via courier to me the next morning free of charge. In fact, the courier actually woke me up. No waiting around all day for delivery. Fantastic service. And that's the way it's supposed to be in retail: great service, great prices, no hassles, no excuses.

So before further adieu, here is my take, on the best mid year moments in this industry.

1) ZARA's blazers: Now credit is given to ZARA, on spectacular tailoring in their women's jackets at affordable prices. The fit on the women's tailored jacket is just remarkable. Value for money is what ZARA is excelling in, and it's showing with sales, still strong as ever in the Sydney city store. Bondi Junction store to be open shortly, stay tuned for more on this development.

2) The talent in Australian designers is still very evident after attending MBFWA this year. We, as an industry just need to find a way to support them and make them shine. Loving the mentoring they are getting from industry heavy weights too and feeling utterly proud to be part of the mentoring panel of Fashion Future Mentoring Program. Good to give back and give these emerging designers a future.

3) Reunited and working again with a few very established Jewish players in the rag trade. There is something about the Jews. They just know the business of the rag trade so well. They know the process of the importance of sell through, and for the most part, they have a strong understanding of where the volume and price points sit. They also know if sales are lacking, it's about the product not the people. Mad about these people!

4) Never ceasing to be amazed at the volumes of sales in the elderly market and in the outer suburban areas. A very untapped category with almost a license to print money. As we have seen, with the recession proof-ness of leading label Black Pepper, during these tough economic times. Sure it's not sexy, and yes we may be biased, but there is a reason why this label is so coveted amongst fashion agents and retailers who stock it.

5) God bless the Internet. It is highlighting the "value for money" component for the consumer and highlighting exorbitant margins from retailers and distributors. It's keeping the industry honest. For example when purchasing my jacket, I got three completely different prices before purchasing. While I am all for retailers getting good margins, be smart about it. Don't treat the customer like a fool. They are smarter than ever.

6) Italian shoe retailer Casanova's. With boutiques in Double Bay & The Star are doing a spectacular job offering good quality Italian shoes at highly competitive prices. While I have only bought one pair, I have got to say their price points and quality is excellent. Expect to see me putting my money where my mouth.

7) Premiere Boutique Trade Show merging with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia (MBFWA) for 2013. A fantastic initiative and one that is dearly needed to bring a more business side element to MBFWA. Working together to bring a return on investment for designers and labels and united front to the high-end component of the fashion industry. Here Here! Pick up a copy of the June 2012 of Ragtrader issue while I speak more on this merge with leading TCF consultant and the highly articulate, Dominic Beirne.

8) Forming great relationships in business. There are three seasoned rag traders, who have ridden the good and bad of retailing and are still going. The elegant, Jann Stromquist of Kopy Katt, the lovely Michelle Kirk of Signature Boutique and the ever so wise Ronnie Sansonetti of Andiamo label. All are seasoned retailers and all have solid rag trade experience behind them. An absolute to delight to deal with. They have seen the spectacular days of retail and the not so spectacular days and they are still going strongly. And they are so damn humble. Love seasoned players who show no sign of slowing down, as these ladies are.

9) Always refreshing to speak to others in the fashion industry who work in a different demographic and to hear their views. I recently had the pleasure of being on the Fashion Group International panel Autumn/Winter 2013 Fashion Flash with the highly successful fashion online retailer, Rebecca Lau of www.goshcelebrity.com.au, P.R to Alex Perry and commentator, Josh Flinn and fashion designer Daniel Avakian who also is savvy enough to add a development work capability to his business. All very smart operators who know their stuff and so refreshingly honest.

10) And the final good news story is with fashion designer, Bettina Liano managing to keep her business afloat and retain 100% ownership thanks to her partnership with the Apparel Group. It's great to see designers still working in their companies to maintain the true identity of the product, while getting help to manage the other more difficult areas.

Yes this industry is a tough one, but regardless of how bad the season before was, I always look forward to seeing my new ranges the following season and starting again with a spring in my step.

As always very interested in your thoughts. What's the best moment's you have had so far in 2012?

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Hypebeast Round Table: The Art of Buying

It can be easy to assume that as a retail buyer, you're responsible for simply sitting around a room full of the latest and greatest products aimlessly selecting your favorite pieces and raking in goods for your personal collection. While being a direct point of contact with the various brands and their products may have its benefits like any other position, it has been said that there is an "art" to buying that also involves a selfless perspective as opposed to strictly introspective calculations.

As a buyer, there's often a lot of factors that come into play such obvious variations in customer base from geographic distinctions, or the demographic balancing act from the various customer bases. Buyers at the retail tier are called upon to possess a level of connectivity with their clientele, foresight into current and forthcoming trends, judgement of quality and an overall ability to refine and define their respective markets - facets of the job that can be too often overlooked.

Further is the nuts and bolts type grind that buyers go through on an ROI and business level that requires them to be on top of their game as it pertains to things like sell through and product turnover. All of this must also be balanced with the inherent necessity to maintain creative integrity and the core identity of a retailer by stocking certain brands based on that "gut feeling" that first plummeted many buyers into the fashion world.

Our newest feature, Hypebeast Round Table: The Art of Buying, focuses in on a selection of buyers from various retailers to get their insights on their approach to buying. The Art of Buying highlights SSENSE CEO, Rami Atallah, Kogi "Poggy" Motofumi of UNITED ARROWS and UNITED ARROWS & SONS, Burn Rubber co-founder Rick Williams, Kim Hall of Wish Atlanta, Duk-ki Yu from MAJOR DC, Rob Lo of Roden Gray, Kyle Stewart from The Goodhood Store, as well as the BEAMS buying team that consists of Kentaro Kuwabara and Tadayuki Kato.

Reflecting on a welcome balance between both high fashion outfitters, streetwear staples and everything in between, Hypebeast Round Table hopes to shed insight that both customers and those already in the industry can benefit from.

Rami Atallah | SSENSE
SSENSE's buying approach is as forward-thinking as the brand itself, constantly looking for the next big thing whether that be an underground Korean label such as Juun.J which we debuted for Spring/Summer 2012 or a trend we see developing in the showrooms or runways. Trends tend to burn slowly for menswear, taking several seasons to emerge before being embraced on the street - this was evident in trends like pop colors seen at Raf Simons or espadrille style shoes seen at YSL and Opening Ceremony. We cater to the more avant-garde customer by buying into these trends early, always valuing quality and fit over novelty. As these trends begin to popularize, we look towards the future, embracing the next trends and ensuring that the items we purchase are fresh and unique. Through this thinking, we avoid buying trends simply because they are trends, but rather because they influence the next step in contemporary fashion. Taking risks is a big part of what we do, backing those one-of-a-kind items that will either be make or break. Game-changing items are rare and often very avant-garde. Most retailers would shy away from such purchases, but SSENSE is not afraid to push boundaries in order to showcase talent in the industry. Our offer is often stronger because we take a risk with pieces no one else dares to carry. SSENSE is based in Montreal, where like most of Canada the winters can be fairly brutal. As such we carry strong outerwear lines such as Moncler, Canada Goose and Parajumpers that other premium retailers in warmer climates simply would not carry - they do not have the demand that we do. We also look for these pieces in the mainline collections, buying heavier down jackets that other stores might ignore because we have that customer who wants to look good in frigid Canadian winters.

Written by Alex Maeland for Hypebeast. To read the full article visit, hypebeast.com

Image via Racked.com

The emerging designers to watch out for at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia (MBFWA)

Mention emerging designers to fashion agents and we start to get nervous. The reason: Well, mainly due to their lack of experience, sometimes lack of commercial knowledge in their designs, and also the lack of funding. After all it is our reputation on the line if something goes wrong. In truth, some of the look books that hit our email are for the most part, except with a few exceptions, let's just say "not saleable".

Phoebes Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a "veteran rag trader" with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry. Between the two of them, Phoebes & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues.

Having said that, we do take the time to mentor and there are many emerging designers waiting to shine and need our help. Highly impressed after seeing some shows at this year's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, I have never felt more confident in promoting these designers. There were quite a few emerging designers shows, with The Innovators (TAFE NSW), New Generation 1 & 2 and The Raffles show. The Raffles designers in particular have been lucky enough to have extensive mentoring from some very seasoned players such as IMG's Jarrad Clark, high-end retailer Eva Galambos, PR Queen Trish Nicol and experienced fashion designer Wayne Cooper and it certainly shows in their designs.

Here's my recommendation's for the designers to watch out for:

DYLAN COOPER

Stepping into ' The Box ' on Monday it was hard to believe Dylan Cooper, winner of Project Runway is only 21. According to IMG's Global Production Director, Jarrad Clarke, "Dylan is one of the most exciting new designers I have worked with in years, his refined taste, mature outlook and attention to detail is one to watch out for". Natural fabrics such as silk, cotton and wool feature strongly in the 26 garments and 17 looks that include form fitting tops and jackets, sheer blouses and beautifully draped dresses. There is a hint of Carnaby Street with beautifully draped dresses and strategic frills in luxurious gold prints. There is a bit from every decade with even a hint at the end of 1920's. Cooper maintains, "The person I keep in mind is fearless and has a love of colour, prints and luxurious fabrics."

dylan-cooper.com

ROOPA PEMMARAJU

Designer Roopa Pemmaraju debuted at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia on Thursday May 3rd in The Theatre at The Overseas Passenger Terminal; showcasing her latest ethically produced luxury resort-wear collection. I have had the pleasure of speaking with Roopa in the past about her ranges, as we were very impressed with her talent. But this year really stood out to be a winner for the designer. Highly saleable and visually breathtaking, Roopa's new collection of resort wear features her signature exquisite fabrics - soft cotton, crepe, flowing chiffon and luxuriant silk. Geometric and clashing prints feature strongly in the 40 looks shown at MBFWA, styled with statement tribal jewellery featuring elaborate embroidery, beadwork, and handcrafted embellishments. Roopa worked with indigenous artists on some of her designs and to give back to the indigenous artists who feature on Roopa's creations 20% of profits from each garment in the SS12/13 Collection will go to Aboriginal communities. Roopa's designs are ageless and will appeal to a greater audience. Roopa is definitely one to watch for and I look forward seeing her go all the way.

roopapemmaraju.com/

KAHLO

The New Generation collections always draw a `frow' of editors keen to spy the next big thing, but KAHLO brought in the cool crowd. While relatively new to the design scene, talented design duo, Rachelle Sinclair and Fay Ogunbadejo have already received major endorsements and a style tick of approval from online influencers including top Aussie bloggers 4th and Bleeker and Harper and Harley. And they were all there, including the newly formed Fellt crew of Oracle Fox, Gary Pepper Vintage, Shine by Three, Zanita and Studded Hearts, to MTV icon Ruby Rose and Tania of Fashionising.

This was a highly covetable and commercial collection staying true to their slick, pared back aesthetic with simple, elegant tailoring and buttery leather. While leather has become their signature stamp, (and still is a mainstay in the current collection with perforated accents) this time the girls ventured into relaxed tailored trousers, a highly covetable 70s-esque playsuit in orange crush, a light summer cape-like coat with peek-a-boo arm holes, and accessories including the paper-bag leather clutch - expect this to be snatched up!

kahlo.com.au

WINSON TAN

Winson Tan was one of the lucky ones to be offered a 6-month internship by the Fashion-Future mentoring programme, after being interviewed just once by head of womenswear designer, Leonardo Bachmann for Viktor & Rolf, who "loved his designs" and saw "great potential" in the up-and-coming designer.

Immediately after showing his NOSNIM by Winson Tan ready-to-wear label, Winson will jet off to Amsterdam to join the design team at Viktor & Rolf and begin what promises to be a glittering fashion career. No stranger to the catwalk, the 23-year-old launched his avant-garde label in 2007 after winning an unprecedented 3 awards in the very prestigious Malaysian International Fashion Award (MIFA) during Malaysia International Fashion Week (MIFW) 2007, including the coveted 'Most Promising Designer.'

He has since showcased his label at China Fashion Week A/W 2008, Japan Fashion Week S/S 2009 and Rosemount Australian Fashion Week (RAFW) 2011. Winson also featured on the TV program 'Fashion Forward,' aired on the Starworld Channel from July-November 2007.

In his second year at MBFW, Winson's Spring/Summer 2012/3 Collection features 15 exquisite designs inspired by the organic symmetry and mystique of Dicotyledon - a flowering plant with an embryo that bears two seed leaves.

TOVAH

Fashion designer Tovah Ismini Cottle is an emerging designer and former model from Brisbane. A pastel geometric print and an edgy take on the international Sports Luxe trend were a runway hit for Australian Fashion Week newcomer TOVAH at her SS2012-13 Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Show.

Hailed a commercial success by some of Australia's leading fashion editors, including The Australian's Damien Woolnough and Sun Herald's Kate Waterhouse, the collection is set to open doors for the promising fashion export, which has its sights set on the international market.

TOVAH's signature techniques including cut outs, contrast colour blocking, and geometric panelling and print, which was done in collaboration with iconic contemporary and digital German artist Holger Lippmann. Tovah has her sights set on Europe and Asia for exporting.

There is some serious emerging talent in our country and I highly recommend for fashion buyers to give some of the emerging designers a chance to shine if you can, it will add a point of difference and ensure you have something unique. Most of the emerging designers still manufacture in Australia and need our support more than ever.

As always interested in your thoughts.

(Garland & Garland Fashion is proud to support emerging designers through Fashion Future Mentoring Program)

Email us: info@garlands.com.au
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Susie Bubble talks bloggers, brands and getting the balance right

There are some success stories that just instantly inspire you to perform at your peak, to look at your work with fresh eyes and reach your ultimate goals. This is how we all felt when global influencer and one of the original fashion bloggers (launched in 2006), Susannah Lau aka Susie Bubble of Style Bubble came to Melbourne courtesy of Portable.

She spoke of the integral role bloggers now play in a brand's marketing plan, and how this new relationship can be harnessed for a positive result on both the readers and the fashion industry. But it's all about getting the balance right, one that is mutually beneficial but doesn't sacrifice your independence or stifle self-expression.

One of her top tips was to blog regularly which seems obvious, but the trick is to make sure each one is quality as content really is king. In the beginning she blogged 2-3 times a day which really helped with her organic search traffic on Google. Then it was just a matter of it growing slowly from 10,000 uniques a day to 20,000, then 30,000 and 40,000.

"This natural growth comes with time and dedication, ensuring you blog quality vs quantity, understand your readers reactions and your blog audience."

Susie believes influence is more valuable than numbers and while she admits Style Bubble has less hits per day than some of the other bloggers in the fashion network, her influence is what sets her apart and can't be measured by numbers alone.

She also touched on the ongoing global debate of bloggers vs journalists and believes the continued comparison in holding bloggers up against journalists or critics is misguided.

To read more, visit Fashion Exposed Blog HERE.

FASHIONTREND `EROTICA' GIVEAWAY

FASHIONTREND Australia has launched a new Issue showcasing LMFF and the Spring Summer collections direct from Paris and London. 'EROTICA' unveils a brave new mood for 'The Essential Fashion Quarterly' with a provocative beauty narrative created by Rae Morris for L'Oréal Paris. Dedicated to desire, this highly collectable Issue features 150+ pages of unstoppable fashion. Discover the behind-the-scenes Cover Shoot video at http://tinyurl.com/7feaou2

GIVEAWAY

EXPOSED Online has 3 issues of the current `EROTICA' edition to giveaway.

Just `like' us on Facebook to win! Don't forget to comment on the Fashion Exposed Wall with your email address so we can notify you of your win.

http://www.facebook.com/FE.TradeFair

NEW ISSUE OUT NOW! Available at MAG NATION and leading newsagents nationally.

http://www.fashiontrend.com.au

Molten Store is forging fashion into new frontiers

Molten Store is the online boutique and creative venture of Jessy Cameron. After working in fashion PR for a key retail store, the Brisbane-based beauty has been casting a new aesthetic and appreciation for the artisan, the hand made, and the one-of-a-kind jewel. From the raw and breathtakingly beautiful pyrite stones fashioned by jewellery designer Rachel Pferrer, to the geometric, cage-shaped rings and neck pieces of The Harbinger Co. the Molten Store is carefully curated and edited down as though it were an online art gallery.

The boutique is clean and crisp, contemporary in presentation while embracing a very bohemian and gypset culture, courtesy of Jessy's own nature of course. The store definitely has her signature style stamp. But aside from her intriguing accessories, it is her business and social media nous that has catapulted the store into success with an adoring cult fan base that continues to expand.

We touched base with Jessy recently to chat further on her social media strategy and she kindly obliged. The fashion industry is defintiely in a state of flux and the future is still relatively unknown as the bricks and mortar retail fuse with online, and the possibilities of what we could achieve with technology continue to be explored, trialled and tested.

Before launching into your own online accessories boutique, Molten Store you worked for a bricks and mortar retailer and headed up their online component, what was the industry like then? And was it fairly cutting edge at the time?

I was fortunate to start my career in fashion PR when the fashion retail industry in Australia was on the cusp of breaking into social media. There had been a buzz about the impending impact that social networking would have on e-commerce but there weren't many players on the scene putting theory into practice.

As I was working for such an established brand, our transition into a truly two-way conversation with our customers was relatively seamless. Although we had to work hard to build our audience (forging strategic alliances with other online entities was a tricky feat, as the readership of Australian-based fashion bloggers was much less than it is now), we did have an existing brand affinity amongst our audience which rendered them receptive to our messages.

Molten Store is an online only store, but you have also held in-store feature days where you allowed your online customers to come in and try the product, to feel and experience - even though you are online, do you think this concept of melding both digital and real will be the way of the future?

When Molten Store first launched, we held an intimate Trunk Show for our family and friends. It was a delight to create an opportunity for us to showcase our products in a physical space, and while we have no plans to open a physical store, I'm very conscious of the need to offer up as many experiential and tangible brand elements for our customers as possible.

A small example of this is highlighting the heroic qualities of our packaging; our beautiful Molten Store calico pouches are a touch-and-feel benefit to our customer, and the incentive there is that a purchase has to be made before they can own one. We can see proof that our customers love the pouches almost as much as the purchases themselves; we have a Facebook gallery called 'purchase pride' and it's filled with Instagram and blog photos that feature our packaging in situ with their purchase.

Obviously you are very active online, but as an e-retailer you are more active than most. How many channels do you use for Molten Store, what are they? In your opinion, which ones are vital for the success of any retail business in fashion going forward?

We have social media accounts for Molten Store across Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr and Instagram in addition to an online magazine housed on site. Facebook certainly drives the most direct traffic, but Twitter is beneficial for direct dialogue with our advocates and Instagram is a fabulous way to connect with a new audience.

Do you think the customers are different from online to in-store? Can you define the difference? Why?

In my experience working across online retail and in a boutique setting, online customers tend to be less impulsive and much more confident in their purchase choices. They often need less reassuring and convert with less coercion. The trouble is, if they are in need of coercion and on the spot advice they probably won't convert and won't become an online customer.

Has it been a challenge to service an omni-channel boutique - answering the questions / emails and tweets, facebook notes etc? do you have a dedicated staff member managing that for you now?

Molten Store has a small army of interns and we've recently hired Sydney-based PR agency Élysée Publicity however all of the emailing, social media and other day to day operations are managed by either myself or by my business partner Kevin.

There is now a growing trend among retailers to use Facebook as a means of selling their in-store collections - do you agree? how successful is this means for you?

We don't have a built-in Facebook store, we would rather use it as a platform for enticing customers to our actual website. Selling on Facebook doesn't give you access to much data and it lacks the experiential elements that we work so hard to establish within the Molten Store website.

Why do you think Facebook is a successful selling tool for retailers?

Put simply, Facebook is a space where customers can become advocates. Enthusiasm is contagious, and if you give your customers a reason to be delighted, it's only natural that they'll share their experiences with your brand.

When you post a new accessory or jewel on your Facebook page that has only just been added to your online store, what is the response you get? Do you often sell out before you've even had a chance to display them very long on the site?

Facebook is the perfect channel for us to publicise new arrivals, and we do often sell out of an item within the hour of us posting images and links on our Facebook fan page. In addition to the actual sales data, Facebook allows us to read our customer's responses to the item on a more personal level.

Visit Molten Store at www.moltenstore.com

Molten Relic photography by Dan @ Red Eclipse

How to spruce up your store with a heady dose of imagination

There is no denying that retail is in a state of flux with a new future being shaped for traditional bricks and mortar as a plethora of online boutiques flood the market. But all this talk about new technology and omni-channel retail has many consumers longing for the days of yore - when shopping was a luxury with one-on-one customer service, a shop owner who knew your name and called you when your favourite styles arrived, and the shop windows were an inspiring and entertaining visual treat.

It's this shop window and visual merchandising throughout the store that have become key to a store's success. The shopping environment has changed considerably, exclusivity is almost a thing of the past, and the labels you now stock can be found in multiple stores. So layout and presentation are key differentiating factors. According to Show Mummy the Money, 'going the extra distance with your displays and merchandising can not only impact immediate sales, but can also help you create a unique identity and ambiance that will contribute to building yourself a loyal clientele'.

With this in mind, we asked luxury boutique retailers, Georgia and Ilana of GRACE Boutique in Toorak for some tips on how they keep their store environment fresh and enticing to engage with their customers. By their own admission, GRACE Boutique 'is a store to linger in, to explore the gorgeous clothing and accessories collections and get excited by the latest styles from around the world.'

So EXPOSED online is thrilled to bring you this exclusive interview with GRACE Boutique on how visual merchandising is a 'daily activity'; their VM techniques; and how VM doesn't need to be costly, you just need imagination and creativity.

In your own words, how would you describe VM?

On the whole, visual merchandising is about creating an environment that is inviting and comfortable to spend time and shop in within the space, it's the art of showcasing your brand and product to convey your style and create unique store atmosphere.

Why is VM so crucial to the success of a boutique?

VM is so crucial as it impacts your sales potential - the better the products are merchandised, the better they can sell. A great window can entice a customer into the store when they otherwise would have walked past. Fabulous mannequins can inspire a customer to put a look together. VM is a way of being able to differentiate yourselves from other boutiques.

How often should a boutique change over the VM? And why?

We are of the belief that visual merchandising is a daily activity. As garments leave the store, there is always the need for tweaking the racks. As a general rule however, we remerchandise the entire store, change mannequins and displays on a weekly basis. It is crucial that the store looks fresh, considered and exciting at all times. Little changes can make the store feel new.

How do you create the in-store VMs? Give us a behind-the-scenes description of the process involved from drawing board / brainstorm of ideas, to the reality of in-store?

Being a smaller business we do not have a dedicated VM department. We are constantly thinking of new ideas and merchandising techniques. It's great to try new things and be able to see the direct response from customers. Since we carry over 20 brands, we are always mindful during the buying process of pieces from different collections sitting beautifully together on the shop floor.

Since the evolution of online and e-commerce, is there a renewed importance on ensuring the VM of a boutique is arresting and eye-catching to draw in the consumer? How has your approach changed to accommodate this, if at all?

Not really. VM has always been a crucial part of our boutique experience so that has not changed. As well, the online shopping experience is so different to that of a boutique - you obviously can't touch the garments or pull together your look in a fitting room so clothes are displayed so differently for the online experience. Conversely, the boutique experience is all about the way products relate in a physical space, how they feel, drape on the body, fit or work together. In addition to beautiful product and VM displays, personal service is key with us and this is something very different to an online experience.

What's one of your favourite / most memorable VM displays that you worked on?

We have a few favourites. Spring 2011 saw lots of "brights" in store so we hung hundreds of neon origami birds in the window and throughout the store. To highlight "florals" in store, we made paper flowers. We love using fresh flowers and produce where possible - from olive trees in the window to hanging hundreds of bags of soil with pine fronds.

Can VM be quite costly when delivering the outcome? Or are there ways of re-using found objects to make a visual feast for the consumer?

Leaving budgets aside, the only limit to VM is one's imagination. Being creative needn't cost the earth!

Do you have any simple VM suggestions or tips you can offer fashion retailers looking to spruce up their stores or change the look? How often should they change their store windows?

Keep trying new things. Try and change something in your store every day. Keep things simple, you want to be able to showcase the product not confuse the customer. Tell a story, inspire the customer and make it easy for them to imagine what pieces should be worn together. Keeping the store neat and tidy is a given - we are so pedantic about our hangers facing the same direction and being perfectly spaced. At the end of the day the store's presentation says everything about the brand you are, the culture you have, and what you can offer the customer.

What do you love most about your role in VM? And why?

VM is a rewarding way of expressing creativity as you see how customers respond with their excitement at the gorgeous products on offer.

Enjoy these beautiful images from the Georgia and Ilana's recent buying trip through Paris and New York.

For more information on Grace and their brands visit their website, www.gracemelbourne.com, or head to their boutique located at 595 Malvern Road, Toorak, Melbourne.

A retailer that supports other emerging talent

Vertical retailing? One usually thinks of the larger chain store players, but there are actually quite a few small boutique retailers which are either embarking on a bit of manufacturing in conjunction with also buying wholesale labels. Von Troska & Andiamo stores come to mind, but one particular one in Melbourne - Et Al is doing a splendid job of thinking outside the square and supporting young talent.

Phoebes Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a "veteran rag trader" with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry. While Phoebes Garland was described as a "Power Agent" by Assia Benmedjdoub, editor of Ragtrader. Between the two of them, Phoebes & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on the latest business fashion topics and issues.

With stores in Armadale, Collingwood, Flinders Lane and South Yarra, they are small chain offering customers not only their own labels, but they also supported their designer assistant designer, Ex -Project Runway winner, Anthony Capon to launch his own label A. Concept. I spoke with Anthony Capon about his label and how he couldn't have launched his label without the support of this very clever independent retailer and designer - Et Al.

How did the collaboration with your label A.Concept come about with Et Al?

Not many people are aware that before I went on Project Runway I was already working at Et Al as the Assistant Designer, managed overseas production and was their store Visual Merchandiser. During the show, my incredibly supportive bosses saw my potential and decided to back my label under their Et Al umbrella which they also have their labels 'Showroom', 'Comma' and 'Et Al'.

You design across the all labels, Et Al, Showroom and Comma plus your own label A.Concept. How do you keep the point of difference with the labels?

Showroom is our knitwear brand and Et Al is our basics essential range. So the hardest thing for me is to differentiate Comma and A.Concept because they are both our woven labels. I want both brands to be strong, however the biggest difference is the target markets. Although people of any ages can wear Comma, our core demographic is 40+ and probably a size 4 (which is a size 14 equivalent). Knowing that, Comma designs need to take in consideration design decisions such as arm coverage, garment proportions as well as covering body parts our clients don't like by creating flattering silhouettes. Having saying this, which we keep in mind is that we like clothes to 'skim the body rather than cling to your shape'.

Do you use trend-forecasting services and find them helpful for designing?

Et Al has a very strong creative direction and style for their brands so we aren't too focused on following trends, however each season we do look at colours which we feel will not only work for our clients but are fresh for the new season. When looking at fabrics, we notice what trends are coming but we know that animal prints, fluorescent colours and short mini skirts are trends, which you will never see on our Et Al client. The one trend I guess you would say we did touch on is working with leather, and that is purely because they are classic items or a wardrobe staple, which will last forever.

Has teaming with Et Al being a real eye opener and real learning curb to creating garments, which are commercial? Does it surprise you what sells?

Et Al and A.Concept are completely different in terms of my designing process. When designing for Et Al, we instantly have to start with the body shape and who our client is, where as A.Concept I can purely design what I want aesthetically. At Et Al, we never go on sale, so the pieces we love so much generally do not sell until it's been in stores for 6 months! There are limitations with A.Concept by the means of time, which I have to put into my collections. When creating one-off pieces with majority of hand stitching, these designs are a lot more limited and exclusive due to time so sometimes I have to adjust a design. After seeing what A.Concept pieces sell, it is clear that people are not worried about money, but they want something individual, unique and not necessarily the most commercial pieces.

You recently created a beautiful montage of photos for ETAL of some leading industry Melbourne fashionistas, who was used in the photo shoot and what made you choose these people in the marketing campaign?

In this shoot we chose a variety of personalities, as we wanted to break down any stereotype of who the 'ideal' Et Al client is and instead of using a professional model, we've chosen people of all ages, different sizes, male and female, with various occupations and backgrounds. The personalities that were involved are simply because the campaign is to show the one essential characteristic of all of our clients which is the love of eccentricity and style, quality workmanship, and unique and sophisticated designs. The aim of this campaign was to highlight the point that age, size or gender become irrelevant when it comes to style.

When I first thought of this concept, I immediately thought of iconic and legendary fashion designer Jenny Bannister! She epitomises the brand Et Al in so many way (she was already a client of ours) as she is eclectic in design and personality, loves the style and of high importance is good quality and unique garments. When coming to the shoot, Jenny even brought in one of her Showroom knits from the mid eighties, which she simply cannot throw away! In stark contrast to Jenny we used 20-year-old males who have a completely different body shape but still have the same love for fashion and design. Our most mature lady we used in the campaign turned 80 this year and she looked absolutely fabulous and that is how we think every Et Al client should look and feel! One personality who I decided to work with is Irish Rivera who works at Stylezilla. Irish herself has a very distinct style which to be honest is probably the complete opposite to a 'typical' Et Al client. Her outfits consist of bright colours and various prints and I wanted to dress Irish as I wanted to put her in a more tailored and chic look, which previously she may not have considered wearing. We have shown her that even with her distinct style, she too can be a Et Al client by adding highlight pieces from collections to give her a totally different look.

Has A.Concept changed much since you teamed with selling some designs in the ET AL boutiques? Not really! My bosses understand that I have a vision for my label and I have all creative control of the brand, which is amazing!

Would you recommend other designers to team with an independent retailer to launch their range, have you found this beneficial?

If you can get an independent retailer to launch a range for them, I would definitely recommend it! To able to have retail stores without having overheads including rent and staff, this is an incredible opportunity as it cuts out costs, which most young designers do not have. Et Al's philosophy is that regardless of age, size or gender, any person when put in the right clothing, can look and feel incredible. The campaign for Et Al's Autumn Winter collection highlights the one essential characteristic of all of our clients, which is the love of eccentricity and style, quality workmanship, and unique and sophisticated designs. Wanting to the campaign is simple. It is everything that Et Al believes in. Size, age and gender become irrelevant when it comes to Style.

An amazing insight into a very innovative small retail chain and fashion labels.

As always interested in your thoughts - Would you support a young designer by trying a new label/or investing into their label financially in your boutique in conjunction with your existing brands?

Email us: info@garlands.com.au
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Putting the source back in resource

Despite the growing talent in Australian fashion, many start-up brands are struggling to get their ideas from the drawing board into sellable garments. Financing their projects is always a concern, but more importantly having access to equipment such as industrial sewing machines, knitting machines, digital printers and scanners. Thankfully, the TFIA have extended their services to include The Textile & Fashion Hub promising to bridge the gap.

According to the TFIA, the Textile & Fashion Hub is "a space created to support small to medium enterprises by giving them access to state of the art equipment for sampling production, knowledge, learning and resources. By encouraging networking and fresh ways of thinking about good design, efficient production, sustainable methods and creative retailing the Hub aims to raise standards across the industry, finding opportunity and rising to the challenges of a changing market through the power of innovation and collaboration."

Julia represents the Council of Textile and Fashion Industries Australia Ltd (TFIA) the peak body of the Textile Clothing and Footwear industry as the Textile & Fashion Hub Strategic Manager. Julia comes to the role with broad experience and expertise gained in Australia, New Zealand and internationally, with a focus on the Italian and Asian markets. Julia commenced her career in music marketing in Germany and since relocating to Australia in 2002 has worked extensively in textile import & wholesale trade, catering to the high end fashion market, sourcing, developing collections and liaising with designers throughout Australia and New Zealand gaining an understanding of running a small, creative business and flexibly responding to the markets needs and desires. With a passion for design and innovation she is confident about the future of fashion and how the Hub project can facilitate and encourage growth.

Exposed Online sat down withTFIA Hub Strategic Manager, Julia Haselhorst for some insight into what exactly is on offer at the hub; why it's so crucial right now; and how the space will encourage `free thinking' and exchange of ideas.

Why did the TFIA decide to launch the Textile & Fashion Hub - was there a significant gap in the industry?

There is such great Textile & Fashion design talent in Australia but a crisis of access, scale, resources and impact. About 90% of the TCF industry is made up of small - medium enterprises without a strong network to support them and very little funding being allocated to assist them. So TFIA felt it was vital to create access to space, equipment, connections, knowledge, experience and investment to help grow these businesses. In collaboration with Kangan Institute and AusIndustry, the Textile & Fashion Hub project was therefore born starting as a physical space at Kangan Institute's Richmond campus.

This space will allow SMEs to develop innovative product and design great sampling collections using state of the art equipment. They will get mentoring and attend workshops, seminars, and networking events that allow for encounters with like-minded people doing amazing things & encouraging collaborations. It's a national project through the development of a digital network and satellites of partners showing that with new technologies solutions can be found from anywhere. One way of connecting designers, manufacturers and services in the TCF industry will be through an online sourcing tool - TFIApp.

In addition, 10 Clusters are covering the diverse industry sectors operating from different locations to engage with industry feeding the Hub with insight, concepts and solutions to the issues they face. The Clusters and industry research will assist Kangan Institute in developing ongoing industry tailored training directly targeted at meeting skill gaps that are made for businesses, progressive, short and relevant.

Why is this hub so crucial right now?

At a time of huge changes in consumer behaviour, a challenging economic climate and shifts in retail concepts; flexibility and creativity is crucial in responding to these changes with confidence and originality. For a smaller business there is great opportunity in responding quickly to customer demand and adopting fresh ways of doing things. Giving them a chance to explore, research, innovate and get mentoring, inspiration and support are ways the Hub can be of great benefit. Embracing new technologies, the commercialisation of ideas and the supporting local manufacturing are strong aspects all encouraged in the Hub; fostering an attitude of mutual support in a non-competitive environment through open exchange and knowledge sharing. A quote that captures this more poetically:

You are forgiven for your happiness and your successes only if you generously consent to share them -Albert Camus

The Hub seeks to enlighten designers on sustainable practices, why is this so important? What are some of the key lessons you will be teaching on this practice? What does it mean to be sustainable in practice?

Rather than seeing sustainability as a separate challenge existing independent of the normal day to day operations, the Textile & Fashion Hub understands it as a way of thinking, something that should be fully embraced as intelligent design and efficient business and manufacturing practice. It makes sense and, it may even simplify things and cut out unnecessary steps or labour that nobody wants to do these days.

While many SMEs in the TCF industry may be interested in the area of sustainability and recognise the benefits of adopting sustainable business principles, many are unsure of how to incorporate these practices into their business operations. The Hub will seek to embed sustainability across its programs and activities. This could include training programs, talks from industry experts, proving access to equipment and resources, which would assist SMEs to adopt sustainable practices in their business operations.

As well as the more obvious promotion of sustainable suppliers and fair trade manufacturers, there will be options given with longevity in mind, encouraging the responsible use of resources rather than a 'that will do right now' approach. It's important to know that you don't have to be perfect though, that any step you take towards a more holistic business concept is relevant and makes a change - don't think about all at once but start with little steps you can take easily and that may even save you money.

Sustainability resonates with consumers' needs to understand where their product comes from and who has made it. It's based on more considered consumption and having meaning and stories connected to 'things'. I feel the great interest in craft and artisans adheres to the same philosophy. Making things that last and that take time and products that move people which we are willing to pay more for but will want to hand down to our children one day as all part of this ethos. Sustainability is the capacity to endure. To see our long-term responsibility in the way we live. It's about moving away from a fast and furious model to a slower, more satisfying approach to creating and consuming.

The hub has also been set up as a place for 'free thinking' and for designers to get together and exchange ideas, why is this so important for emerging designers and the Australian fashion industry in general?

Good design is also finding solutions to problems. A collaborative network that encourages original thought, conversation, research and experimentation without the restraints of the daily needs of running a business are all important to finding solutions. Innovation seems to arise out of need. A lot of people now see the need for change, they re-assess, open up to different ways of doing things and also to their 'competitors' recognising how working together on some of these issues helps everyone while still finding your unique style and voice.

The opening day is on March 30 during LMFF cultural program, and there will be exhibitions, seminars, and displays with the latest technology in manufacture and body scanning innovations - will any of this be on hand for people to use at the Hub, or is this just some of the key learnings they can take away from joining the Hub?

Everything we are showing during 'Unveiled' - the Hub's open day - will be about presenting the equipment and activities available in the Hub. The seminars we will be running moving forward will be structured around Digital Monday, Business Tuesday, Artisan Wednesday, Manufacturing Thursday and Innovation Friday which gives you some idea on what content to expect once the Hub has opened...all very exciting. Details will be coming up shortly through our website. http://www.tfia.com.au/hub

Will there be space for designers to design, will there be equipment for use and resources? If yes, what will be available?

It's a huge light-filled space with pre-production room, resource library, space to ponder and create and seminars and workshops to visit. Equipment includes digital printing incl. garment printing, 3-D scanning and printing, a variety of knitting machines, incl. wholegarment and seamless, a wonderfully set up CAD room for pattern development and more. Details can be found here: http://www.tfia.com.au/hub-registration-summary

How can people get involved?

You can register now http://www.tfia.com.au/hub-registration which makes your business part of the network, allows you and your staff to visit two seminars and receive a listing within and access to the TFIApp. You get invited to events and become part of the Cluster program http://www.tfiaclusters.com

For participation and access to machinery for sampling production or research you can see the very affordable fees under Hub packages for small-medium businesses http://www.tfia.com.au/hub-registration-summary

Making it affordable for any small business to use the space is a big priority. We hope to see you soon at the Textile & Fashion Hub!

Please send any inquiries to info@tfia.com.au

Images via the TFIA website and Nobody Denim who are TFIA accredited

The question of accountability

With soft retail conditions not leaving us anytime soon, one of the key areas that retailers need to focus on is accountability for sell through. Not to mention, timely delivery for their stock. The days of putting new garments in your shop and sucking it and see, are over - and this extends to all areas of the fashion industry. In this economic climate the need to analyse ranges and ask if its saleable, is imperative.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a "veteran rag trader" with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry, while Phoebes Garland was nicknamed "Powerseller" on her birthday by Assia Benmedjdoub, editor of Ragtrader. Between the two of them, Phoebe & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues.

The time and money wasted on sampling is enormous for manufacturers and distributors, especially if orders don't go into production. And more importantly, the need to ask if it's suitable for the current economic climate in terms of price points is critical. Last year I met a very smart distributor/retailer who picked the eyes of our ranges from Europe she was importing. And she is not alone; agents have been doing this for years. She was practicing what I like to call, the "ZARA" strategy of tailoring ranges to suit the southern hemisphere. These are the smart ones, especially the ones that can bring it in time for Australian delivery times. Everyone importing goods from overseas, should work with companies overseas that allow them to do this, otherwise the alternative is paying for samples you really don't need to bring in can be very costly.

It has always baffled me how China can be so uncompromising on minimums. Obviously business has been too good for them for way too long. Most manufacturers both large and small struggle to meet minimums on styles/colours/fabrications when dealing with China. More recently I have heard some of my clients noting that many factories in China are closing due to the lack of volume business in Europe and the USA as a fall out of the GFC. How many times has a retailer ordered something only not to have it produced not meeting minimums in one of the ranges you buy? Just as common, is the problem for manufacturers lamenting about not being able to meet minimums imposed on them by uncompromising makers requesting they meet 600 per colour/per style (which is standard) or much worse in some cases. Personally I find this kind of uncompromising behavior by makers to be utterly ridiculous. I mean 'in a perfect world' wouldn't we all like to have volume labels that produce volume orders, but let's be realistic, there are fewer labels able to do this with such a saturated market. Surely some orders are better than none?

And speaking with other agents I am not alone. It can be more than terribly frustrating to spend three to four hours showing a range to a retailer only to have half the styles not to have gone into production, while you could be showing another smaller range, with a tighter fabric story who can meet the minimums. Frankly, this is costly to makers, retailers, distributors and agents and this is something the fashion industry can no longer afford. It's a massive time waster. Recently at a range release, I was very refreshed to hear one of our apparel companies addressing this issue and attempting to find a solution to making their ranges more saleable.

On one particular challenging label, they had the foresight to recognise times are changing and certain fabrics just were not selling in one of their ranges, so they cut the knitwear element for the summer season as they couldn't meet the minimums. There were a lot of withdrawals in the season before, and after hearing first hand the minimums of knitwear in China from makers directly, I can't say I am not surprised they did this. (Last year in Hong Kong, I almost passed out when speaking to a knitwear maker at the minimums they wanted.) Secondly, they were smart enough to recognise their range was too big and cut it back considerably as well as well as advising the other fashion agents that they were intending to focus on their best sellers and expand their ranges on their best sellers. Well bravo to this company! I walked away feeling much admiration for them in putting their ego aside. The whole result seemed like a very logical solution and a step in the right direction to understanding their customer and more importantly meeting their numbers into production.

This kind of honesty is most refreshing in an industry built on fragile egos and politics and particularly where designers seem to take it so personally when you pull things from the range or dare to tell them the "commercial truth" about certain garments that just do not sell. The amount of time we have culled ranges back is becoming far too often, for various reasons; garments mainly being totally inappropriate to the climate, too large a range, which overwhelms the buyer, taking up way too much space in a showroom, double ups in stories or because a garment has effectively priced itself out of the market. And sometimes dare I say it "because there is a garment that is just too hideous for words". (Insert - ego massaging here for the fashion designers.)

A lot of manufacturers seem to be producing these very large sized ranges and it just doesn't seem to make sense, as ultimately it's making it harder to meet minimums on styles. Except in the case of the labels that are doing exceptionally well and have a proven consistent strong wholesale client base. For every range where there are withdrawals, you could be having a smaller range which there are no withdrawals and know you can get the orders in, but more importantly know you are going to receive delivery and not have the order cut back.

Quite simply, orders getting cut back affect everyone, as retailers and agents have essentially budgeted for our orders to go into production. When we find they are not being produced, quite simply, we are unable to make this money up. We are all in this business to make money, yes everyone! So I urge manufacturers and distributors to look at your best sellers in this difficult market and cut your ranges back to tighter stories and tighter fabrications. Take smaller risks of knowing your exact customer and where you might actually meet the minimums by gaining the sales, and therefore keeping everyone happy including manufacturers, distributors, the maker, your fabric house, your retailer and your fashion agent.

Your thoughts are always welcome!

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Forecaster on how to respond to new market conditions

Trend forecasters are increasingly being asked how to respond to a slowing economy when people are spending less, according to Scout's Tony Bannister. "They question the whole idea of putting in store new items every month and ask how they should react when people are not spending as much," he said.

Speaking at the recent Fashion Exposed in Sydney, Bannister highlighted a trend towards the 'SlowLife', a slowing of our culture and a reaction against fast fashion.

"People are taking the lead by, for example, going to farmers' markets and holding onto things," he said. He noted a trend towards craft-based product with people making things themselves that could be unique to their identity and where they live. "They are embracing craft and nature and making a fashion statement out of it," he said.

Bannister also highlighted a minimalist trend as a modern stylish expression. He pointed to 'remakers' as an international movement that was active in recycling, re-using and remaking.

Also a trend here to stay were the 'authentic' brands, according to Bannister. "The authentic brand can be beautiful designer jeans or furniture that has a history, a story to tell," he said. "Authentic won't go out of fashion, it's here to stay."
Meanwhile, the lead times for trend forecasting were becoming shorter as the market changed. "For buying at wholesale, trend forecasters are working 12 months in advance," he said. "For retail, forecasting is six months ahead because they like to know the benchmarks but they are also aware things change so they work with their team every week to analyse details. "Accessories are working three to six months ahead."

While products that there were not so trend-based were less impacted by those cycles, he said they still needed to ask key questions for their businesses. "You still need to ask questions like what is your customer demographic, what would they like and what pieces would be good for them," he said.

Written by Dawn Adams at Fashion Source. To read more visit, www.fashionsource.com.au

WATCH: Fashion Exposed Blog chat to Scout's Tony Bannister after his Business Seminar presentation at the recent Fashion Exposed Sydney;

Why retailers need to think of creating a brand for their business

While retail is somewhat challenging at the moment, the need for retailers to start thinking about creating a brand for their business is imperative. While most small retailer businesses are known in their local area, not many are actually are known beyond that. With the support of technology and social media it's becoming a relatively easy thing for fashion retailers to achieve a global presence with very low outgoings. Branding is one of the most important things which retailers can achieve some sales growth for their business, providing of course they have excellent customer service to back it up. The need to gain customer loyalty and repeat business and also extending their customer base outside the local area is imperative.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a "veteran rag trader" with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry, while Phoebes Garland was nicknamed "Powerseller" on her birthday by Assia Benmedjdoub, editor of Ragtrader. Between the two of them, Phoebe & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues.

While large fashion labels are very good at branding and vertical operators, we rarely see independent retailers extend into this area except in the case of Birdsnest, which has my utmost respect of their use of technology. Mind you the owner did come from a background in IT, so no wonder it's such a web savvy business. Shining examples of amazing brands are Chanel, Supre, Sportsgirl, Lacoste, and many more. Who hasn't seen those young girls hang onto their Supre bright pink bag long after purchasing, effectively being a walking advertisement for the brand. Traditionally a mature brand Supre was, it has managed to reinvent this through clever marketing into a completely youth orientated business.

The 'share a coke' campaign was another brilliant branding initiative, which also encompassed a great sales and marketing execution. Coke was a smart enough to create a "limited edition" coke can, encompassing 150 top names and also setting up in major shopping names to tailor it to personalize other less common names. Nothing like personalizing a product, to get people buying! Suddenly everyone was popping up on Facebook & Twitter photographing "their" coke can with "their" name on it. The company was smart enough to make the campaign about the consumer not about the product, which resulted in the consumer marketing the coke product through social media as well as driving sales to coke. Genius really!

With online retailing here to stay and growing at a rapid rate and big players like Aurora and The Iconic, doing brilliant jobs in the online world, it's time for the independents to look at branding. This can be achieved through multi-channel marketing such as text message marketing, Facebook interaction with their customers through Facebook pages and Facebook advertising, Blogs and investing into marketing materials for the consumer to think about your business long after and in between visiting it.

Look at ways you can involve the consumer to be a part of your business without really trying through clever executions like the "share a coke" campaign. Long gone are the days we can open the doors and consumers come in, it's all about engaging with consumers and growing your business to reach a more global scale.

Garland & Garland Fashion will be presenting "Regional Exposed" Business Seminar - Learn how to maximise your regional boutique business - at Fashion Exposed on Monday 13^th February 2012 at 9:30am. Be sure to register, www.fashionexposed.com

As always interested in your thoughts

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Discover the key components for fashion business success

Kicking off her career in fashion design, Kate Hurst lived and breathed the industry at its core. Turning her creative nouse towards photography, painting and art history, Kate formed the conceptual background that has now become the invaluable launch pad for her current career in business strategy, communications and strategic planning at her consultancy firm, Hurst & Co.

Kate has a decade's worth of valuable business experience working within creative industries and her personal experience has proved creative individuals can be equally talented and successful within the sphere of business; all they need is the right support, mentoring and tools to help them get there. She has since worked with well-known Australian designers Romance Was Born, Ellery, Sportsgirl, Limedrop, Arnsdorf, Karla Spetic and Dress Up in the fields of retail, online, e-commerce, environmental sustainability and web development.

We caught up with the enigmatic business entrepreneur on the eve of her Business Seminar, Digital Exposed, during Fashion Exposed this weekend from 12-14 February, at the Sydney Exhibition Centre.

Kate Hurst is the founder and principal consultant at Hurst & Co, a consulting firm which assists emerging brands to build their public profile and grow their business. She provides consulting services in the areas of business strategy, communications and strategic planning, creative and design consultancy, professional development, and partnership and funding.

Before moving into fashion design you were formally trained in fine art, how has this background aided your creative nouse in the fashion arena?

Straight out of high school my plan was to become a practicing artist, so I headed off to COFA to study photography, painting and art history. This initial training helped create a solid conceptual background that would later inform my design practice. For example, developing my skills in colour theory and graphic design became invaluable on a day to day basis when running my label.

Do you still source much of your inspiration from the art world? If so, can you share them with us?

Today I would say that I am equally inspired by the art and design world as I am by the world of business. Peoples initial instinct is to see the two as polar opposites, however I think more and more that the two can only contribute to each other. As a business consultant to creatives, my goal is to create that supportive fusion between art and business, in order for creatives to navigate the world of the entrepreneur.

How did you expand your label from a small grass roots brand into an international sensation? Is it more or less difficult now to build a fashion label in Australia?

I guess I have always had an entrepreneurial streak. I started my fashion label while I was still at art school; designing clothes and accessories and selling them at the weekend markets to pay for my uni fees. Over the next 7 years it took a lot of passion, hard work and dedication to build my business up.

I don't think that it has ever been easy to build a fashion label! However unfortunately I am noticing an increase in pressure for independent labels to compete against the large vertical retailers, who are offering mass-produced products at super low costs.

When did you realise your journey could be of use to other fashion entrepreneurs? And how did you make that leap from design to consulting?

In 2008 I decided to take a season off to creatively re-charge. My intentions initially were to return to the fashion cycle, but after only a few months I was quickly approached by my first client, a well-known Australian label that needed help with issues that were affecting the business' profitability.

It was an amazing opportunity to work with a really creative team and I was able to help them turn the business around quite quickly. I really enjoyed the process, realizing I had a vast amount of knowledge from my own experience that I could share with others.

What are some of the key messages you relay to your clients to ensure they achieve business success?

It is important to be innovative, not just in your design and product development but also in the way that you run your business. The world is changing at such a rapid pace and while its impossible to keep ontop of it all, it is important to stay in the loop about trends in technology and design and to implement these new strategies on an ongoing basis.

In addition it is essential that people clearly understand both their brand and its audience - knowing your market and having a strong sales and operational plan in place is imperative for any chance of success.

What are some of the basic business principles people forget to include in their plan when starting up?

Get clear about your goals and make sure you clearly map out (step by step!) how you plan to get there. Many people in creative industries such as fashion really struggle when it comes to refining their strategic plan before they set up their business - especially when it comes to the money side of things. If you are running a small business and numbers aren't your strong point then seek help! Employ an accounts person or outsource a team of book keepers, accountants and financial advisors to help you. The cost of the extra help will almost certainly save money in the long term.

With the expansion of online retail, is this a growing aspect of the service you now offer your clients? How important is it to include social media and websites into their business plan? And does this need to be there from the beginning? Why?

There's no doubt that every label now requires an online store simply to remain competitive in this climate. I recommend that my clients move into online retailing as soon as possible. I am also a huge supporter of the concept of 'omnichannel' retailing, where online and real world shopping are seamlessly intertwined to create the ultimate shopping experience for consumers.

Between a physical retail experience, social media and e-commerce, the customer needs to be connected and indulged. When a synergy between these channels forms, true satisfaction for the contemporary customer can be achieved.

The implementation of simple integrations onto their websites, where you can 'like' a product, check its availability, see when it's coming into stock etc is the answer. The act of 'liking' acts as free marketing, as their friends can see their action; the link to the online store is a link to immediate purchase; and the link to the retail store guides the consumer towards a brand experience. Feeling, touching and moving in the product is something that will never be lost, but it needs to be encouraged through the new available technologies.

You will be speaking at Fashion Exposed next month with your seminar titled 'Business Exposed' - discover the key components for fashion business success - what do you hope people will gain from this?

My hopes whenever I give a talk or have a session with a client is that they will walk away feeling like they have a greater understanding of the issues affecting their business' success. I also aim to provide the practical tools that will enable them to combat these issues head-on. I also want to have fu with it and hopefully meet a whole lots of interesting people.

Who are some of the fashion brands you consult to?

I have been blessed to work with a number of really exciting Independent Australian labels such as Romance Was Born, Ellery, Dress Up, Secret Squirrel, Ruby Smallbone, Limedrop.

What are you looking forward to in 2012?

I have such a good feeling about this year. I am really looking forward to expanding Hurst & Co's services and being able to help more businesses reach their full potential.

Kate will present her seminar titled 'Discover the key components for fashion business success' at the Business Seminar during Fashion Exposed on Sunday Feb 12 from 1 - 1.45pm. To book, visit www.fashionexposed.com

For more information on Kate and her company Hurst & Co. visit their website; www.hurstandco.com.au

And you can follow her on Twitter, Facebook and Linkedin

Images: Kate Hurst archive; Romance was Born; Meadowlark

Living in an `Omni-Channel' World... 5 Minutes with WGSN Retail Editor

Just as we made the shift into a multi-channel retail environment, the buzz word is already outdated. Offering a store, website and smartphone access for customers is no longer enough. The National Retail Federation Conference held in New York recently revealed customers now demand a seamless shopping experience, or 'omni-channel retailing', that allows them to move from in-store to online and smartphone before they make a purchase.

"Despite what the latest buzzword might be, research and presentations at the conference revealed customers preferred to shop in stores which offered multiple channels to their customers across online, smartphone and in store, indicating an affinity with brands and the shopping experience." - ARA

According to WGSN Retail Editor, Lorna Hall we aren't moving towards a multi-channel environment, we are in one. "The customer lives there - it's the retailer that is desperately playing catch up and, in some cases, is still building the house," she said. "Digital is driving as many changes to retail offline as it is online. So from a business model point of view it's revolutionising the number of stores you need as a retailer and it's reshaping what you will need to have in those stores. It's forcing shopping centre developers to re-examine what they need to be to customers and it's enabling small niche business's to punch way above their weight, subvert traditional retail models and steal market share from under the nose of businesses that up until now have been category killers. In short it's an incredibly exciting time to be in retail and incredibly challenging."

Read the complete interview with Lorna at Fashion Exposed Blog as we explore the latest in retail trends; the power of `like'; how retailers can best prepare for the omni-channel future; and the crucial role of social media.

Visit http://www.fashionexposedblog.com

In a perfect world .......we would have a progressive fashion industry...

Well a New Year starts, and I thought I would make my New Years resolutions of changes which I would like to implement in the fashion industry. Some are realistic, some are purely wishful thinking perhaps, but all I feel passionate about, never less here it is...

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a "veteran rag trader" with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry. Between the two of them, Phoebe & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues.

1) In a perfect world: Fashion Agents would be charging showroom space for their ranges to manufacturers and distributors like it is standard in the U.S.A. With commission rates being a minimum 20% on everything. Building up labels takes an enormous amount of time and money and you don't earn a cent until they are established, which can take years. Getting to that point is costly and to be honest some may never happen. In most other industries, they would charge by the hour or by campaign and they would charge a lot. Commission only is a very outdated method of payment for the rising costs of business today.

2) In a perfect world: There would be an end of the discounting cycle from retailers, department stores and chain stores. A terribly destructive form of retailing which has taught consumers to shop on sale, haggle retailers on price, and devalue product and brands, as well as cutting retailers margins. A true short sharp sale is one thing, constant discounting means you are stocking the wrong product or not buying correctly. Bad all around.

3) In a perfect world: we would end all credit in the fashion industry, ensuring that everyone is debt free from all sides of the industry, keeping our industry thriving and ensuring EVERYONE gets paid. Eliminating credit across the board and putting an end to the debt trap.

4) In a perfect world: We would bring back hats, apparently many a woman would like to wear hats outside the racing season but do not have the courage to wear them, according to milliner, Kerry Stanley. Here, Here - love a hat!

5) In a perfect world: we would make more of an effort to dress. Recently at Fashion Torque's 1^st Birthday, the divine Candice De Ville expert on all things vintage says she despises the laziness in fashion and not making an effort to look good. I have to agree 100%, my motto is..... there is simply no excuse for letting yourself go. Always has been and always will be.

6) In a perfect world: manufacturers and distributors of mature labels would be providing ample marketing support for retailers and agents. Good clean images and spending the money on stylised photo shoots, which retailers and agents can use as effective tools to enhance sales for their product. No more shots of literally grabbing the "girl next door" in greasy hair and no make-up and flat shoes. How terribly inspiring to buy your label - NOT! Would a magazine shoot like that? I don't think so.

7) In a perfect world: Retailers would be having a more open mind to viewing new ranges, we are not necessarily asking them to buy, but I can't abide by the stubborn ones that refuse to even look, you just never know until you look or even worse stand you up after making appointment - just rude...manners cost nothing!

8) In a perfect world: There would be an end of the influx of national massive chain stores and a return to the domination of independent retailers. Oh, for the 1970's retailing days. This would bring back great variety to retailing, as opposed to the same boring bland major shopping centres where everything is the same and the same national traders. I am now embarrassed to buy anything with a pattern in it from a chain store as I feel the world will know exactly where its from.

9) In a perfect world: we would have the volume of sales in garments with beautiful fabrics, high quality silks, cottons, cashmere, and good construction of garments, as opposed to fast cheap and easy fashion with lesser quality and fabrications. As the iconic fashion designer Jenny Bannister describes this type of fashion, ever so aptly as being simply "Landfill". Educating the public where good taste lies and how to dress with elegance and class is dearly needed. The beautiful garments at Madam Virtue & Co should be where the volume is. Breath taking beauty is what Madam Virtue & Co specializes in. The owners are utterly adorable too.

10) In a perfect world: we would end 100% polyester. Hate it, despise it and wondering why the fashion industry has not banned it yet? Or the fire department for being a fire hazard? I understand it might have been a bit of novelty in the 60's & 70's, but so was Tang and Limmit biscuits.... need I say more?

11) In a perfect world: Manufacturers and distributors would not blame fashion agents and retailers for their garments not selling and would not treat fashion agents as 'employees'. We do run our own businesses, we are not your employees, and quite frankly it is rather patronising to complain and lecture about unrealistic sales figures in this economic climate when half the time the manufacturer/distributor has never even sold their own product. It's easy to forget the fashion industry is small one and we agents do tend to talk to each other about winners and the not so winning labels.

12) In a perfect world: We would bring manufacturing back to Australia, unlike The Button Plan, which ended manufacturing - thank you Bob Hawke. And we would put an end to these hideous unions inhibiting any small manufacturing left in Australia. Protecting jobs is one thing, inhibiting jobs is something else.... perhaps the unions need to understand the difference?

13) In a perfect world: We would all retain our slender figures, so as we get older so we could wear more belts and waisted garments. Enough of these shapeless tunics, which do nothing for your figure. If I see another 40+ woman in one, I think I may die of boredom. Come on ladies make an effort, you may be mature, but look at some of the beauties such as Audrey Hepburn or even Maggie Tabberer, Carla Zampatti, 90 year old Iris Apfel, and our Governor General Quentin Bryce - classy ladies who present themselves beautifully.

14) In a perfect world: We would have some reasonably priced Italian shoes. At the moment both my husband I struggle to buy ourselves decent Italian shoes without paying $500 plus. You either have the cheap shoes, Made in China which "look" fine, until you put them on your feet and then you feel the inferior fit of them. It just can't match the unparalleled craftsmanship of the Italian kind. Or you have the $500 plus Italian ones...not much in between. Hello distributors and importers I beg you to look at this major gap in the market.

15) In a perfect world: We would have decent menswear for real men with realistic fits. Now, no offence at all to my darling homosexual male friends and believe me I have suddenly developed a lot since working in fashion, but sadly as much as I have tried to convince my husband to wear colour, he won't. Most Australian men aren't 6ft tall and super skinny, a good menswear brand, which is commercial, yet modern but not too camp and not too street wear is needed for the straight males and a few independent menswear boutiques to stock it would be nice too.

Now at which point, I will have to leave you dear reader, as I have to go back to selling a huge volume of garments in polyester and probably even take a few orders for some of those tunics, I am terribly fond of. Whilst in between, reading a few patronising emails, I am sure. I actually do love this industry, I just live in hope for some progressive changes, which will bring the fashion industry in line with other industries.

In a perfect world, in a perfect world! Wishing you a very Happy New Year!

What you would like changed in the fashion industry?

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Images via Candice Lake and Broadsheet

Hope for retailers as the silly season comes to a close

Just as the silly season was approaching last year, the retail industry was feeling a glimmer of hope. Just a glimmer. The three kings brought gifts of Christmas hope to retailers - the first king brought gold, with some moderate growth reported in the latest ABS figures. The second king brought frankincense by way of a December interest rate cut which will hopefully give people a reason to head to the shops, and the third king brought myrrh in the form of banks passing on that December rate cut in full to customers.

Russell Zimmerman as the Executive Director of the Australian Retailers Association. Since 1980, he has owned and operated the Spark's Shoes retail chain with his wife Marion. Spark's Shoes is a 75-year-old family business specialising in the fitting of children's footwear.

While it seems the stars aligned enough for retailers to see some light, there are also some shadows lurking behind the tinsel, with food being a big reason for the boost, and clothing and footwear as well as department stores proving to be a weak link.

We know times are tough when people are concentrating their spend on food and household goods and not shoes, especially over the festive season when the weather warms up and events and parties sneak into the calendar.

The figures show cause for concern over discretionary spend as consumers hibernate, watching both their spending and their debt levels, highlighting risk- averse behaviour. Banking Day reported towards the end of the year there might be a 'secular shift' in the use of credit cards, with a decline in credit card debt over four consecutive months in 2011, which hasn't been seen since 1985.

Clothing and footwear retailers have traditionally been able to rely on a consumer living in the moment, spending during the good times and saving during times of uncertainty, such as when interest rates rise or new taxes are imposed on them.

But the economy is complex and since the GFC consumers have taken on a conservative approach to spending. Good retailers know they must look at their bigger picture rather than obsess over the day to day habits of a fickle consumer.

That beautiful pair of mustard shoes sitting in the window might experience nothing but wistful looks from passersby for a longer time than usual, but good retailers stay safe in the knowledge that they form part of a larger strategy which knows its customer, has a clearly defined service offering and is able to take risks on certain products and stock enough of their best selling products to keep regular customers happy and spending.

In good news for the fashion industry, some of the most popular Christmas gifts for women this year included clothes, jewellery and cosmetics, as well as beauty. Gift vouchers also featured high on the list for women, and 73 percent of overall respondents said they planned to give either a gift voucher or money to their loved one. We can only hope this means vouchers and extra cash were spent after Christmas on some outfits for the holiday season or to update the wardrobe in time for the warm summer weather.

According to the ARA Consumer Survey, 30 percent of consumers finished their Christmas shopping between 22 and 24 December, showing deep down consumer spending habits haven't changed all that dramatically yet; and there's still scope for them to pop in and try on their dream pair of shoes to go with that summer party dress- the budget might just stretch after all...

The Sydney Girl teams up with Fashion Exposed

Flaunting their wardrobe wares for an adoring public, adopting trends before they hit the stores, while mixing it up in their signature independent style - it's definitely a blogger's life. Away from the trappings of advertiser's demands, bloggers can publish original content, endorse any product they fall in love with, and write honest reviews. It's for this reason the world has quickly fallen in love with the blogosphere and it has followers signing up in the millions getting click happy on their favourite style sites.

There is a blogger out there to suit everyone's taste, style and flair. It's why Fashion Exposed recently aligned itself with one of Australia's most popular fashion bloggers, The Sydney Girl for their Sydney 2012 trade show. Joelyne will be tracking the trends, unearthing new brands and capturing the live look books on stage at Fashion Exposed from 12-14 February at the Sydney Exhibition Centre.

Founded by Sydney fashionista, Joelyne The Sydney Girl is an addictive insider's view on everything fashion, lifestyle and beauty for the style savvy. Over the past year, The Sydney Girl has collaborated with a range of exciting brands including Westfield Australia, The Laser Lounge & Celebrity Thread.

So we asked Joelyne about her climb to the top of the blogosphere, how she did it, why bloggers are hot property and what she's looking forward to most at Fashion Exposed next month.

When/how did you start up The Sydney Girl? Why?

I thought starting up a blog would be a great way to share what I love and interact with people online, as I love online social media.

What is the site philosophy? What are the mantras you write by?

To always write genuinely, aiming to inspire and help others with what I write and feature.

Bloggers are quickly becoming hot property to marketers and PR agencies wanting to tap into their personal social media network - are you surprised by the growing interest in independent sites and bloggers like yourself?

It's pretty great to be a part of something that's being recognised for its significance in the industry, and very exciting that there's a growing interest. When us bloggers like a product or service we try our best to promote it the best we can, which is probably why we are great to work with.

You have hundreds of followers via twitter and Facebook, how important are these fans? How do you keep them engaged and entertained?

The blogging community is based around interacting with people and really getting to know what they like and don't like, so it's really important that we engage with our readers. I keep them engaged by asking them questions, and also trying to provide content that would really help them.

What are your thoughts on the Australian fashion industry and its position on a worldwide scale? How do you think our designers compare?

I think the Australian fashion industry is pretty amazing! (Maybe I'm biased). Our designers are consistently coming up with such fresh designs and this makes them International sensations.

You are a media sponsor of Fashion Exposed, why do you think these fashion trade events important for the industry?

It's important, being in the fashion industry, to continually learn and be inspired by upcoming brands and the more established ones, and see for ourselves in person what they have to offer. Seeing things in a lookbook online doesn't always give us the real deal. It's nice to touch and feel the fabrics and look closely at the detail in designs.

What are you looking forward to most at this year's show?

I'm really looking forward to the Live Look Books!

What are The Sydney Girl's New Year resolutions for 2012? Where do you hope to see your site by the end of the year?

Learn & Collaborate More: I hope to learn more about the amazing brands out there that I don't know about yet, then feature their designs in my outfit photos to help showcase Australian Designers with my main audience, which are a mix of Australian and International readers. I also look forward to exciting opportunities for The Sydney Girl to collaborate with new brands on projects. I hope to inspire people all over Australia, so that would mean The Sydney Girl aspiring to being one of the top read Fashion, Beauty & Lifestyle blogs in Australia. That would be absolutely amazing.

What is your advice to other fashion writer's out there who are looking to aspire to The Sydney Girl's status in the fashion industry.

A huge part of The Sydney Girl is the photographs of outfits I wear which feature many Australian Designers, mostly upcoming ones. I style the outfits as I please, and only choose outfits that I feel would suit me and are to my taste. So I try to stay true to myself and seek ways in which my passions and knowledge can help my readers.

See more of Joelyne's style www.thesydneygirl.com

It's French for Chic

Straight from the runways of Paris, UBIFRANCE has the pleasure of showcasing the latest in French design talent at this year's Fashion Exposed & Preview event.

For the fifth consecutive year, the French Pavilion has handpicked the top designers from accessories to womenswear direct from the romantic city. Don't miss this great opportunity to discover the latest offerings in French textile fashion, and be the first to represent these exciting labels to the Australian market.

Feel free to come and meet the professional trade advisors from the French Trade Commission UBIFRANCE, Sylvie Patinec and Céline Di Lauro. They will be happy to discuss the world of French fashion and register your interest in obtaining new, up-and-coming French labels.

We invite you to also enjoy the Live Look Book shows during the trade fair, which will include exhibitors from the French Pavilion, followed by a "French" cocktail, B to B, event.

For more information on the French Fashion Showcase at Fashion Exposed, visit www.fashionexposed.com

The Power of `like'

There is no doubting the significant changes taking place in retail right now. Everybody has an opinion on what we should and shouldn't do going forward, whether it's innovate our in-store interiors with visually arresting and conversation-starting visual merchandising, training staff in the traditional practise of customer service, or incorporating an online component to complement your bricks and mortar boutique.

One of the interesting developments is the dramatic increase of bricks and mortar retailers selling via Facebook pages. The instant connection with customers is invaluable, creating and holding a conversation with people outside your store's immediate network, and encouraging that `in-store change room' style interaction between friends in an online environment. It's this power of the `like' that increases the desire for a product, just like girls or guys would interact in-store. Seeing that their friends `like' it is a sign of approval among their peers because they respect their opinion.

Fashion Exposed Online spoke with popular Queensland boutique, Adrenalin, who stock luxury labels such as Willow, Camilla & Marc and Zimmermann, and have become a Facebook success story by treating it `like a great big group of VIP customers'. Director, Dean McCauley, who is about to celebrate the stores' 14th birthday, has seen the retail landscape change dramatically over the years, but agrees the current environment is one of the most challenging.

“Retailing is such a tough game at the moment and retailers can not afford to sit back and wait for customers to walk through the door," says Dean. "Customers are not spending as much any more and are definitely thinking more and more about what and how much they spend. So it's up to us to excite and educate our clients to look amazing and keep returning.”

As a bricks and mortar retailer for 14 years how has the retail industry changed? What are the major differences to owning a store now as to when you first started?

The retail industry and climate has changed significantly. We are finding that more than ever we need to be on our game. There is so much more competition not only with more bricks and mortar stores, but more and more online store are popping up all of the time. No longer can you just open an amazing store with amazing range of labels and sit back and wait for the customer to find you. You have to be on the front foot with both marketing and social networking platforms to spread the word fast. Otherwise you will not survive in this highly competitive business. The consumer is king and they have so much more choice and accessibility to any items or labels than ever before.

There is now a huge element of shoppers buying online You don't have an e-store attached to your boutique yet, are you going to open one soon? why or why not?

This is something we are working on. Yes at this stage we don't have an on-line store but we have been watching this whole business grow and it's definitely something we will look to establish very soon. We feel it's just another avenue to reach our clients.

There is now a growing trend among retailers to use Facebook as a means of selling their in-store collections - you are a very active Facebook user with Adrena Lin business page, how successful has this been for you? why?

Our Facebook has been very active for sometime. This has now been our strongest and most successful form of marketing we have ever done. Our Facebook is our key marketing tool to reach our customer instantly. Now that social networking is part of everyones daily ritual we have found that it works so successfully as our clients can always keep up to date with pics and news with what's happening at Adrenalin. We have both a fan page and profile page yet our profile page seems to be working so much better as it's seems more personal and our friends are in touch daily asking questions and waiting with bated breath what's new today!

Are they different customers? can you define the difference? do you cater to them differently too?

We find a mix of both. We have regular clients that use our Facebook to keep in touch with us with regular questions about new stock and deliveries. We also find we are capturing more and more friends of friends as they see that they are constantly in communications with us and they want to be part of this action. To us, we treat our Facebook like a great big group of VIP customers. We ensure we are responding instantly when anyone asks a questions and often tagging vip clients with new deliveries.

How different is selling on Facebook to in-store? do some of the same rules apply? and do your customers expect the same service? What percentage of your sales are online compared to in-store?

It's hard to put a percentage on this as it changes so frequently but definitely sales from our Facebook is growing as a huge rate. I don't know what we did without this form of marketing... it's now a massive part of our business. All the same rules apply exactly the same specialised exceptional service and we try to keep it very personal like your having the same one on one experience within our boutique.

Has it been a challenge to service both the store and Facebook page as it gains popularity? or do they work cohesively together?

No this has not been a problem but it definitely keeps me busy and keeps me on my toes. I have my Facebook linked to my mobile so as soon as anyone comments on a picture or post then I'm immediately alerted that a message or comment has been made. I make sure I respond as soon as I can. A few times we have had the situation that when we post a picture of a new delivery that hit's the store sometimes it can be a fight on who gets the size first, the Facebooker or the in-store customer. You have to be quick!

Why do you think Facebook is a successful selling tool for retailers?

It's instant! They do not need to be in your store or in your suburb it's instant and everywhere. We have Facebook clients throughout other states they can buy just as fast as our clients who can visit our store frequently. We can have it in the post the same day then they can receive their purchase the next day.

Do you think the `like' tool increases the desire for a product, just like girls would interact in the changeroom, seeing that their friends `like' it is a sign of approval among their peers? because they respect their opinion?

Yes...definitely it's a bit like your stamp of approval. We monitor our likes very closely. This gives us a greater indication of the type of customer who is utilising our Facebook so this helps us decide what we buy and what we promote on our Facebook page.

When you post a new pair of shoes or clothing range that has just dropped in-store, what is the response you get? Do you often sell out before you've even had a chance to display them in-store?

Yes this can often be the case. We always put our garments on the shop floor first but at as soon as we can we are posting pics of what has arrived.

Do you pre-sell much of your range via Facebook?

I'm not a fan of pre-selling or taking the money for items that have not arrived yet. As so many things can happen beyond our control that we don't receive what we think we are getting. The last thing we want to do is disappoint our clients. Of course we will do it if a client is so passionate about a garment and is afraid unless they prepay they will miss out. We take a wait list approach and first on the list get the first option unless it has been pre-paid for.

Do you think you will ever set up a shopping cart within Facebook?

Maybe one day. I'm not fully informed on how it all works yet but definitely something I will be looking into further down the track.

All images sourced from the Adrena Lin Facebook page.

Nurturing the untapped talent through sustainability

With the battle for survival in fashion, it’s easy to overlook the amount of emerging designers yet to be discovered, with a deft touch for design. There are some designers, waiting to be the next Karl Lagerfeld and there are some that may not be so fortunate to make it.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a “veteran rag trader” with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry. Between the two of them, Phoebe & Robert Garland have over 50 years sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues.

Having said that, Australia is lucky enough to have a vast amount of talented designers waiting in the wings. And talent there certainly is! With all the big names in Australian fashion, it’s easy to forget that just because they are not a big name, some of the emerging ones can hold just as much weight in terms of design and creativity as some of the better known ones. They just need the chance to be shone.

There is one lady in particular who is passionate about promoting and nurturing some of these untapped talented designers. I had the immense privilege of speaking with Jane Hayes, founder of The Spirit of the Black Dress, an event and competition, (part of the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival) which nurtures emerging designers, by showcasing talent and innovation through sustainability.

P.G: Jane, Tell us about The Spirit of the Black Dress and how it became part of the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival?
J.H: The Spirit of the Black Dress started in 2009. The intention was to promote emerging, sustainable Australian fashion designers by providing them with exposure, and to show the Australian buying public the talent living in their own back yard. The project commenced on the official calendar of Melbourne Spring Fashion Week, and following a fantastic response we presented it to The L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival and were accepted onto the Cultural calendar. We are now entering into our fourth year of production and third year on The L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival calendar. We are very proud of the success of the event.

PG: What are the requirements for emerging designers to enter?
J.H: A designer has to meet the following requirements to be selected as part of The Spirit of the Black Dress: • Be a designer in their first five years of production. • Be sustainable, which can mean the way they source their fabric, treat and die their fabric or how they run their studios. • Be an Australian based fashion designer.

P.G: How do you choose the judges to judge the event? What are the criteria to become a judge and whom do you have on board for 2012?
J.H: We have been very privileged to have some amazing and talented people participate in The Spirit of the Black Dress as judges over the past three years. Some of the past judges have included Janice Breen Burns, Karen Webster, Roger Leong and Robert Buckingham. Our judges for the project are selected because they are respected members of the Australian fashion industry or related industries such as public relations or media. They also need to have had longevity in their career, a strong sense of style and a keen eye. The judging panel for any year needs to be diverse so that we get different perspectives on what constitutes quality design and sustainable fashion.

For example this year we have Jenny Bannister (notable Australian fashion designer) and Philip Boon (celebrity stylist) from Fashion Torque who as a duo know what constitutes good, innovative fashion and design. We also have Kyra Pybus (owner of Pybus PR) who has a finger on the pulse of the public heartbeat, what they want and who will be saleable. We are also fortunate to have Sarah Gale (owner of Fashionista Business Consultancy Group and former Project Runway Australia judge) who knows good design, what buyers want from a label and how to guide the business development of fashion-based businesses. Phoebes Garland (owner of Garland and Garland Fashion) brings to the panel years of experience from a commercial perspective and a strong sense of design and aesthetics, which will assist in selecting the leaders of the pack. As you can see, we are yet again spoilt by the talent of our judging panel for 2012. We are also privileged to have Dean Hewitt and JC Lloyd - Southwell d’ Anvers from Madam Virtue & Co as patrons of The Spirit of the Black Dress in 2012.

P.G: How many entries do you get from emerging designers? Are you amazed at the talent out there that has not been discovered?
J.H: When we started in 2009 we had a healthy number of designer submissions to the project especially considering that it was our first year. Since 2009 our level of designer submissions has greatly increased and we are forever amazed at the quality of the designs that are submitted each year. Some of our alumni have gone on to large-scale success, receiving promotions and showing at New York fashion week. One designer dressed Rhianna, a few years ago, and others have left the safe confines of working with other fashion designers and started up their own businesses. We stay in touch with many of the designers from previous years and it is a thrill to watch them grow!

P.G: What opportunities does this provide emerging designers?
J.H: The Spirit of the Black Dress offers emerging Australian fashion designers the platform to showcase their talent and enthusiasm for fashion and sustainable design. The winning ten designers receive a professional photo shoot with a top Australian fashion photographer. This year the talented Christian Blanchard will be working with a top styling, hair and make up team. The images are then shown to the media at a media launch and retailers evening, where each designer has the opportunity to talk intimately with buyers from various Australian labels. The images and dresses are then featured at a VIP invite-only opening gala, which also features a fashion film and runway show. The event is attended by members of the Australian fashion industry, fashion media, and public relations agencies. The night is all about the top ten winning designers. For a young designer it is an amazing opportunity to be able to meet the elite of the Australian industry and receive a spread in FashionTrend magazine Australia, our official media sponsor, along with other media opportunities.

P.G: What is the timeline for the event?
J.H: The event takes about 6 months to put together. We are so fortunate to have such a great team working on the event together, they include Jordan Moore, our creative director, Dean Drieberg, our producer and Jemma Luxmoore our designer and retail liaison. We start by confirming our team for the year, which has grown steadily since 2009. We then confirm our theme for the year ahead, pursue sponsorship (which we manage ourselves each year) and select our amazing creative team and photographer. Everyone donates his or her time and creative abilities so generously each year as we are a not-for-profit event.

P.G: Do you think there could be a way to team the designers up at a trade event like Premiere Trade Show or Debut so hopefully some retailers could find new emerging designers to stock in their shops and the designers could get feedback from fashion buyers for their ranges?
J.H: I think this would be a great idea. I would love to have a stand dedicated to The Spirit of the Black Dress each year so that the designers can get greater mileage out of their involvement with the project.

Thank you Jane, a wonderful event supporting these designers. With the majority of manufacturing and mass fashion overseas, I urge retailers to keep an eye on the next new Australian talent by having a look at some of the emerging designers. If you see a potential new emerging designer, give them a go in your boutique and give them a chance to shine. Fashion Exposed supports emerging designers through the Debut section at each trade fair.

Keep abreast of the dates of the winners and of the talented designers of The Spirit of The Black Dress on their website.

As always very interested in your thoughts.
Email us: info@garlands.com.au
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You On A Beach While Your Business Is Still Making MONEY!

According to the media last month the retail sector was looking extremely dire, this month the retail sector is set to soar. The way I look at it is if you are listening and watching the media to determine what is happening within your business then the outcome will be grim. Take what you know and combine it with what you learn and make something great.

Renee Mayne is an Author, Speaker, Business Mentor, TV Presenter renowned for transforming businesses. She is fastly becoming the Number 1 go-to person in the retail sector for business advice for proven results and breakthrough programs.

How to make business come to you

Anyone can start and own a business but it takes someone special to create more then a business but a life they love and a business that is congruent to them. To work from your heart space to heart space and align it with your personal values because once you do that, that is when you achieve true happiness you are operating on a level that most people don’t even understand. To make money is easy to make money and do something you love is creating more then just wealth you are creating prosperity, enlightenment and empowerment. In other words it is crucial that your personal brand is aligned with your business brand.

For example:-
When you think about Richard Branson you think fun, business savvy with a hint of womanizer. When you think about Virgin it also represents those elements. If they weren’t aligned they would not be as successful as what they are today because not only does it give you the drive and passion you need to create an amazing business but it also tells consumers that you are genuine, authentic and living your truth. With a brand so strong you will weather any storm and you’re customers will market your business for you.

What Retail can learn from Direct Sales

Often people tend to look down at Direct Sales and seeing it as an inferior business model. However if you look beyond the perception and straight into the core and heart of it there lies a forward thinking, innovative and smart business model. Recently I was having a conversation with one of the Directors of Mark Kay and here is what I learnt:

1. It’s ALL about connection: This is the most overlooked element in Retail and one that Mary Kay is dedicated on working heart space to heart space. You build connections and you build a profitable business that will be around for years to come.

2. Educate your staff and your customers: Business owners sometimes hold back on training their staff in all areas fearing they will then leave to pursue greener pastures. However by training your staff in all areas so they are managing it like their own business you are investing in your team and your business will run at its fullest potential even whe you’re not there.

3. Career Path: No matter how small your business is you can still career path your employees. Teach them about investing and how to finance their retirement. When your employees are learning and creating a life they love they will work harder for you and you are helping them invest in themselves and their future. This can all be done within your business, grow together.

4. Work smart not hard: Some Mary Kay employees work around 25 hours a week and choose what hours and days they wish to work and they bring home around $8500 per month. They can work as little or as much as they choose. Reward your staff by giving them recognition and incentives for doing a great job.

5. Touch base with your clients often: Make time to connect with your customers often and not to sell them something just to say Hi and show them you care about them and their lives, its only a phone call away.

Business doesn’t have to be hard or boring so have fun with it and remember you are the heart and soul of your business. I have just created the most simple and successful business model that has lead many businesses into great success. We have spoken about creating multiple income streams so the model will give you an idea about how that works.

As my Christmas gift to you I will be giving all Fashion Exposed Online readers a FREE 30 minute consult valued at $125. To redeem your consult please email renee@braqueen.com.au

Top 5 trends that made 2011

There was no shortage of fashion trend's that rocked 2011, the trends this year were exciting, fun and vibrant, so with out further ado here are my top 5 picks.

Eryn Behan is director of Ginger Trend Consulting, a trend analyst and a provider of fashion forecast services and consumer insight trends to the fashion and interior design industries throughout Australasia.

1. Colour blocking - bold block combinations in beautiful hues were thrown together in any which way you pleased. There were no rules with this trend when it came to making a bold statement. Fashionistas rocked bright orange as the colour of choice especially for single head to toe pieces and many of the garment shapes were sport inspired,.This fun and vibrant trend is set to continue into next summer

2. Even though this is not apparel we can't forget about Shellac... love. (If you haven't heard of this before now, head to Lady Melbourne for the scoop).

3. The 70's were back - we saw a resurgence in high waisted, wide leg's, super light denim, pussy bow blouses, pop colours and crop tops, wedged shoes and a plaited leather headband saw the revival of the authentic hippie. 70's inspired trends took the fashion world by storm, bohemian inspired and retro baby.

4. Kate Middleton - Kate is set to continue to be on of the worlds leading fashion icons. Inspiring much of this years fast and 'must have' items on the high street and also designer pieces on the catwalks. So far she has inspired classic styles, elegance, understated pieces and a resurgence in glamorous dressing.

5. Black Swan - Back in January we saw the release of Black Swan a hugely successful film at the box office. The trend was a classic ballet aesthetic Inspiring a clash of romantic and gothic looks. What it looked like was feather's, tulle and intricate detailing, dark smokey eyes and updated and wearable ballet garments. Leather biker boots were worn with a layered tulle skirt, ballet slippers with a soft chiffon dress teamed with a classic styled leather jacket were all key to this fast fashion trend believed to have also developed from the SS11 catwalks.

As always interested in your thoughts, email me at: eryn@gingertc.com.au

The rise and rise of Black Pepper

Recession proof fashion? Is there such a thing? It seems in these uncertain times retailers are looking for that key brand that ticks all the boxes. A fashion label that gets them good sell through, as well as a bit of volume. And it appears there is a label defying gravity in terms of sales for retailers. And, it’s a label which can have a rather polarizing effect. Quite frankly, you either love it or hate it. The label in question is none other than, Black Pepper.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a “veteran rag trader” with over 30 years experience in the fashion industry. Between the two of them, Phoebe & Robert Garland have over 45 years sales experience. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading fashion agency based in Sydney and they are regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion topics and issues.

Black Pepper is one of those labels you have to have respect for the strength of sales it does in the market. And more importantly the sales it achieves for retailers. Volume is its key strength and its demand from customers would have some of the more glamorous higher end labels sit up and take note out of pure envy. Black Pepper has evolved drastically over the years. Its traditional heritage was mainly track suits and fleece, but these days the label brings a much more fashionable element in the ranges. So much so, it’s now attracting a higher-end boutique clientele. These types of boutiques are now starting to stock the label due to sheer demand from customers which attributes to the brands strong loyalty. In a nutshell, its brand loyalty is so strong; it’s like “Chanel” for the older demographic.

The fashion pieces offer a `good value for money component' to sit alongside higher end labels. More importantly, it’s a brand that has a very strong following. Black Pepper is known for its excellent value for money, which ensures a strong sell-through for retailers without having to discount, which is always appealing. Whilst there will always remain its core pieces of fleece and tracksuit in Black Pepper, the company Breakaway Apparel, now part of The PAS Group, works hard to ensure it will appeal to the next generation down, to keep the brand loyalty strong and is moving forward and constantly developing the fashion component.

Gordon Black founded Breakaway in Melbourne in 1976. Gordon was and still is a fanatical Rugby follower. He played first grade Rugby Union until he was 36 years old, playing against the likes of South Africa and the All Blacks. He played in the Breakaway position, hence the company name. The company specialises in leisurewear with several leading brands under its belt; Yvonne Black, Breakaway Menswear, Equus and the recently acquired Yarra Trail. Black Pepper was its founding brand, and it recently celebrated 30 years in business. In 2010, Breakaway customer service beat Mercedes- Benz in the Australian Business Awards with Matt Lawson, head of customer service heading up the team. I spoke to C.E.O of Breakaway, Olav Uittenbosch about the success of Black Pepper and why it’s such a leading brand.

Olav, Why do you think the label has been such a success?

O.U: We know our customer very well and constantly engage with her via market research, focus groups, or in-store interaction and observations. We translate all this knowledge into a product range that speaks to our customer; it looks/feels/fits/handles right, and all at price points that represent good value. Breakaway has been crafting Black Pepper for over 30 years and has always focused on this market segment and stuck to it. As the brand has grown it has created its own success as it got access to better financial resources that could be reinvested into the brand to further improve the garment and expand the business and recruit the best people in the business. The team at Breakaway is like a family and it is a great environment to work in. All of these together help to keep creating strong ranges that keep growing.

PG: Where do you see Black Pepper's growth in the future considering it's main audience is elderly? Will there be a move to target the next generation down?

O.U: We constantly ensure that we have a part of the range that caters for the next generation down. This way we ensure that we keep introducing new customers into our Black Pepper range. Most of our international media and marketing campaigns are targeted at this segment so we keep introducing the brand to new customers. This is way we are still around and growing strongly after 35 years.

PG: What makes this a “recession proof" brand and a brand that is in such high demand from customers?

O.U: The older customer segment is a fastest growing segment of the population, which in itself already provides growth for Black Pepper. We continuously introduce new details, fabrics and styles and are looking for ways on how we can do things better than last time. We remain loyal to our customer and ensure that we meet expectations while at the same time trying to over deliver on product promise. This might be via the lifetime of the garments, the ease of washing, soft handling, hidden pockets and reinforced stitching, etc.

PG: Will there be an international expansion of the label?

O.U: We have had no need to look for further growth outside of our current distribution in Australia, and New Zealand. We have however been approached by a distributor in South Africa, and we have seen very strong growth of our brands there.

While Olav has provided such an insight into such a commercially astute brand, there is one retailer that needs to be highlighted as a key retailer of the season. Patricia McGrath, owner of Frantik Boutique in Springwood is a retailer who has in the past year started stocking Black Pepper. Frantik was initially stocking medium to higher end brands, however she attributes Black Pepper to saving her business. We ask Patricia how she has found stocking Black Pepper among her higher end labels.

P.G: How has the Black Pepper label changed your retail sales in comparison to the other higher end brands you were putting in?

P.M: At first I was a little nervous about introducing Black Pepper, I was happy sticking to my tried and tested medium to high end brands. Now when I look back, I can honestly say that introducing Black Pepper was one of the best business decisions I have made to date. A new type of buyer has started to come to our store, a buyer that isn't afraid of spending money and who seems to be addicted to Black Pepper! Our more expensive brands are still selling but not at the same speed or large quantities as Black Pepper.

P.G: Do you have to mark down Black Pepper and do you get good sell through?

P.M: I have a standard sale at the end of every season where I mark the store down between 20-30% but I find that by the time I get to sale time, I've sold out of most of my Black Pepper so I don't have much to mark down.

P.G Considering your store's profile was upmarket and somewhat younger, how have you found Black Pepper has fitted in?

P.M: Absolutely! Black Pepper isn't what you think; some of my best customers who generally stick to my European brands have started buying core pieces in the range.

P. G: As a percentage how much has your sales increased since you put Black Pepper in?

P.M: In terms of figures, I'd say sales have increased 20%. I honestly think that Black Pepper has ensured my business survival since I introduced it to the store. Like Frantik Boutique, evolution seems to be the way for Black Pepper label. Expect the brand to live on for another 30 years… like fine wine…it will only be getting better with age.

Black Pepper exhibits at Fashion Exposed on the Breakaway Apparel Stand alongside their other labels; Yvonne Black, Breakaway Menswear, Equus and Yarra Trail in Sydney and Melbourne each year. It is available for viewing in between seasons through each of their fashion agents in each state. To make an appointment to see the Black Pepper range call Australia Freecall: 1800 001 399 or visit their website.

As always very interested in your thoughts.

Email us: info@garlands.com.au
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What’s the drill with Organic Cotton?

The Organic Food industry has been one of the fastest growing market segments across the planet for the past 5 years. People are catching on about the fact that toxic chemicals and fertilisers don’t taste great, and that they and artificial colours, flavours and preservatives can’t possibly be good for your long term health and well-being.

Natalie Dillon is the co-founder of 3Fish. Found in over 80 stockists around Australia, 3Fish presents a range of 100% Fairtrade certified organic cotton, carbon neutral wardrobe basics and seasonal pieces you can feel great about on every level. They recently took out the United Nations World Environment Day Award for Sustainability Leadership for SMEs, and a week later won the Victorian Premier’s Sustainability Award for Small Business.

Certainly what we have observed is that one of the biggest leaps into organics begins when people begin the journey of parenthood. At that point the enormity of the fragility of life suddenly kicks in. The urge to protect and preserve and do our best for the small person we are now responsible for is overwhelming. It’s a game changer. And we are now seeing translation of this appreciation to organic fibres, fabrics and garments. Not only do they feel beautiful to wear, regular feedback from people reports vast reductions in skin conditions, and increased breathability and comfort.

I would like to think that we as humanity are emerging from the chrysalises of self-centredom, to understand that organic farming methods lead to better health and well-being outcomes not only for the consumer end of the chain, but that it is critical to respecting the health and well being of all those involved in those products along the entire supply chain, and ultimately to the sustainability of our planet.

At the beginning of that journey of understanding is raising awareness about the source of garments; and that the life of a cotton garment begins in a cotton field, and that as a crop, cotton is one of the thirstiest crops on the planet, for one of our most scarce resources; water. As one of the driest continents Australia is not suited to the farming of cotton. Countries such as India are well suited, and specifically, organic cotton. There, organic cotton is rain-fed by the monsoonal rains, the largest rain event on earth, and is handpicked for even less impact on the earth.

Also, in gaining new eyes through which to view the reams of garments adorning our high streets, and the superhighway of faceless “fashion” that is online shopping, it is imperative to understand that conventional cotton is heavily reliant on chemical pesticides. As a crop conventional cotton makes up 4% of the agricultural footprint of all crops in the world but consumes more than 25% of chemical insecticides used in the world. And this is what we wear on our skin. In 2008 the production of conventional cotton used over 284 million pounds of pesticides in the United States alone, with hundreds of millions more pounds sprayed worldwide. Additionally, seven of the ten pesticides most commonly sprayed on cotton are on the EPA’s list of known, probable, or likely human carcinogens.

It is also tragic beyond words that approximately 1000 conventional cotton farmers commit suicide annually in central India because of the overwhelming debt cycle often associated with the terminating cotton seed and partnered pesticides and fertilisers marketed by some of the world’s largest seed companies. And these are the same small scale farmers who bear the brunt of improper use of chemicals unable to be sold in other world markets, and so dumped in countries where regulation is less stringent, to wreck havoc on communities through birth defects and significant health issues, and ultimately death.

But there is an answer. A very commercial and sustainable answer. Results released this year from a 20 year US trial, Rodale Institute Farming Systems Trial (FST), which compared organic (biological) and conventional production methods of corn and soybean crops, showed dramatic benefits in using organic systems over the longer term:

• Organic systems produced 31% higher corn yields than the conventional system during moderate droughts
• Weed competition in organic production methods were tolerated better than in conventional farming methods
• Carbon sequestration is highest in manure-based organic production, followed by legume-based organic production
• Groundwater appears to increase in organic systems with 15-20% higher volume of percolating water and reduced runoff; and
• Energy use in the conventional system was higher than in the organic systems

There is rising consumer awareness around sustainability issues and given equal or similar alternatives within a price range, a growing number will choose the more sustainable alternative. So there is also a growing market driven imperative.

However, at the end of the day, we all have to live with ourselves and the impact of our purchase decisions. As a business owner, other than fulfilling all my creative and commercial goals, I want to know that beyond producing a garment that does no harm, I want to produce a garment that does good; that provides sustainable livelihoods for everyone involved in creating our products. We would like to think that every garment we sell, not only has it created healthier lives for the people who grew the cotton, and made our garments, is a far healthier option for the people who wear them.

So what’s the drill about organic cotton? Not only is it fabulous to wear, it is far more fabulous for the earth and all its people.

Fast Fact:

Since inception, 3Fish has produced over 100,000 fairtrade and organic cotton products, using organic dyes and inks, recycled packaging, and producing garments carbon neutral, saving an estimated 11.3 tonnes of toxic chemicals from being used.

Want To Make Money in Retail?

Around a month ago I predicted that over the next two years it was going to be a time where retailers will either sink or swim. With a whopping 88,000 retail jobs predicted to be lost, a lazy $50 billion spent online in 2010 and that figure is expected to soar to an impressive $70 billion within the next 5 years. That number is near equal to what the Australian retail sector contributes to the economy. But before you reach for the scotch on the rocks and close your shop doors it’s not all bad, in fact it’s such an exciting time to be in business because never before have we had so many options.

During my 17 years in retail I have seen a lot; the raise and fall of multiple businesses, I’ve made money, lost money and made money again and I know you have experienced a similar thing. Now is not the time to be mediocre it’s time for you to step up.

Think Different | Be Different

The new economy is not as daunting or as scary as what people are making it out to be. Laurie Oakes said recently “Let's not talk ourselves into a recession. We're in a great spot and we should be talking ourselves up not down." 20 years ago people cared and life was simple, we shared recipes, had a chat at school drop off, we knew what each other was doing at the weekend and where you liked to shop. Then life became busy and we forgot to take time out and enjoy the view. All of sudden we had heard of this new word called “stress” then depression pretty soon swept the nation at an all time high. Because. We. Just. Couldn’t. Stop.

Something had to give. All this time we thought no-one cared anymore however it was a time factor, not the care factor. So when we were introduced to social media we embraced it because it enabled us to care again without it taking too much time so now we can share recipes, have a chat at school drop off, we know what each other are doing at the weekend and where you like to shop.

It’s word of mouth on steroids.

I recently worked with a hair salon where we posted a picture of my new hair and I shared it with my friends. They gained five new customers! Now for those who maybe thinking “Only 5” what if I said the average person stays with their hairdresser for 5 years averaging $200 a visit. That one status update just put an extra $30,000 into their bottom line…not bad for something that cost nothing and took around 10 seconds.

5 Quick Tips

1. Speak to your customers like your talking to a friend, it’s all about trust. Be open and be yourself, transparency is the key.

2. Ensure that your website is smartphone friendly so people can see you at a moment's notice. They may be in your area and looking for somewhere to go, you need to be the business they see. Even if you don’t have a website ensure you’re on Google places.

3. Multiple income streams is crucial in the new economy

4. Don’t worry and even think about what your competitors are doing. Run your own race.

5. Think about an exit strategy, step outside your business for minute so you can see your business with a clear vision. Think financial freedom and create a business that allows you to live your ultimate life.

The Power of Innovation

Steve Jobs passing in October, has reminded me into thinking how great this man was. Not just because he headed up the world's biggest corporation and was the most successful business CEO of our time, but just how his belief in innovation over anything else was his prime source of drive and success.

Deborah Sterry has a fashion career spanning over 25 years within fashion retail and wholesale. She trained with Myer, was the Advertising Director for Sussan, former owner of Matisse Boutiques in Melbourne and is now owner and Creative Director for Threadz Pty Ltd, with labels including Threadz, Clarity and new label, Contrast.

This leads to me to say, the inspiration that Steve Jobs has left behind is a legacy to us all, especially now in the fashion industry. It is time, actually "over time" that the fashion industry must take stock and recognise the power of innovation and the desperation that the consumer has that we in the fashion industry produce it.

The consumer is spending, there is more disposal dollars than ever before but the fashion industry through its lack lustre approach to presenting itself and the hesitation, one might even say resistance to change has been the main cause for the industry to have waned and been left behind.

So I ask, everyone that is passionate, driven and has the desire to change, to focus, to re-invent , re-inspire, re-invigorate but most of all bring innovation to the Australian fashion industry. Wwhy not be inspired by one of the greatest innovators in business of all time, Mr Steve Job's and apply it to the Australian fashion industry?

The power of the independant retailer is huge, it is only a matter of making the "mind shift" it is the greatest tool the independant retailer has, the power to be able to change today.

Be Innovative WHY NOT??

Deborah Sterry will be holding a seminar in November in Melbourne on the `Future of Boutique Retailing' and the skills, innovation and energy that will Inspire all of you.
If you are interested in attending please call Threadz (Head office in Melbourne) (03) 9486 9277.

The Beauty of Online

Bricks and Mortar versus online? There is simply no such thing anymore. Times are a changing and believe me it’s only for the better for everyone including the traditional retailers. Let me explain why.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, along with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as a “veteran ragtrader” with over 30 years experience. Between the two of them Phoebe & Robert Garland have over 45 years sales experience. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading fashion agency based in Sydney representing women’s fashion labels targeting the 30+ market. Garland & Garland Fashion is regularly sought for comment from various media on business fashion issues.

Last year I received an email from a customer all the way in UK looking for an Australian label we represent. The label they were wanting is not sold anywhere overseas only in Australia. And whilst attending Rosemount Australian Fashion week this year and waiting to go into a show, we started chatting to a retailer who was visiting from the US. She had flown all the way over especially to see the Australian talent. She mentioned to us that Australian labels were THE flavour of the month and she was getting hot demand for them. Interesting……….

While we hear that retailers are being undercut from online stores overseas due to much cheaper prices, it got me thinking. With this feedback about Australian labels being in hot demand, it has opened up a glut in the market for Australian retailers to provide the rest of the world product that is not available overseas. Retailers cannot compete with some imported labels on price, so why not reverse the situation and offer a point of difference by providing products, which customers overseas cannot get in their own country. Has there ever been a better time to start promoting Australian labels to the rest of the world?

Online is simply the way of the future for smart retailing. Minimum overheads and no paying overinflated rents, plus it gives you the flexibility to work wherever you want anywhere in the world. Until you become as large as say Net-a-Porter.com and need to employ a lot of people. But let’s face it you would be hardly complaining. Why wouldn’t any retailer embrace this method? Let’s imagine you open an online store in conjunction with your bricks and mortar store and you market it properly through social media and digital marketing and it becomes such a success it does more business than your bricks and mortar store. Would you not rethink paying a landlord thousands in rent, working 7 days a week chained to your shop and making minimum profits?

Now like anything, setting up an online shop is not just a matter of setting up a website and the sales are going to flood in. You need to market it properly and you need to provide excellent customer service, fast response to email queries and have excellent images of your stock. Plus free shipping is a must, be smart and build this into your margin and the consumer will not know the difference. One etailer/retailer doing an outstanding job is www.birdsnest.com.au. Owner Jane Cay, has built an impressive online business. With a bricks and mortar store in Cooma and faced with only a population of 8000, they have had the foresight to build an empire online, in conjunction with their bricks and mortar shop and now employ over 45 people. Smart operators.

The question of wholesalers supplying only bricks and mortar days are over. There are some powerful online retailers that buy as strongly as bricks and mortar and don’t discount. The Internet doesn’t have to be just about discounting, it can just be an extension of your traditional business. Faced with this question…will I supply an online store? My answer is, yes I will, as I believe they have exactly the same business as bricks and mortar operator. There is no such exclusivity for the ‘World Wide Web like there is for suburb-to-suburb exclusivity. It’s something every retailer should be embracing to even out the playing field and introducing Australian labels to the overseas markets and growing their business.

Whilst there will be still a demand for traditional retail methods, I do worry about some retailers not even giving it a go or even worse complaining how bad business and then not doing anything about it. It is incredibly naïve to think your customers will not buy from the Internet, especially if it’s a brand they know well and understand the fit. There are some very strong Australian brands out there, which would retail exceptionally well online. Retailers need to embrace this change and stop being the victims in the online world. Let’s look it at another way…did we imagine in the 1970’s we would be sending emails, surfing the internet, and buying bottled plain water to drink?

As always very interested in your thoughts.

Email us: info@garlands.com.au

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M-Comm and Social Media for Retail

The commercial world as we know it is moving into a different business model from the day to day operations, to how the company engages with its customer, even down to the system of buy, sell, trade. The traditional models are all being challenged. The Australian Retailers Association (ARA) and the Australian Sporting Goods Association (ASGA) will focus on one of the major changes which is m-commerce and social media for retail and part three of the Engage in E-tail Seminar series.

David Shafer, Executive Director of Kogan Technologies will deliver the keynote address and share Kogan’s success using m-commerce and social media. Other topics to be covered include: the growth of internet use and e-commerce on mobile devices; retail mobile presence - making your website mobile-friendly, mobile sites & applications; the growth of social media in retail – trends, statistics and research; practical advice, tips and best-practice when using social media in retail. A panel of leading practitioners will also share their best-practice experience in m-commerce and social media.

We asked Executive Director of the Australian Retailers Association, Russell Zimmerman to tell us a little more about the seminar, why it’s so important to be informed on the new social media channels, and what it all means.

From e-comm to m-comm and now e-tail – can you explain what this new terminology means?

The word e-tail refers to electronic retail and encompasses the multiple ways in which retailers conduct their business online, so they can offer the best service to their new and existing customers. The aim is to create a seamless shopping experience for the customer wherever they choose to shop- across bricks and mortar, online, social networking and even via smart phone, of which have had a huge take up in Australia.

Why is it so important to engage in E-tail? What benefits will it bring to bricks and mortar retail?

Bricks and mortar retailers who embrace the online space are able to reach their customers in many ways. The reality of retailing is customers are increasingly going online and want the same product range, convenience and customer service they would get if they were to walk into the store. It is also important to offer customers ‘seamless’ shopping across all channels so they can shop in your online store one day and drop into your physical store the next, all in one smooth step and under one brand.

There is a huge shift in consumer focus towards purchasing online, does this have to have such a negative impact on bricks and mortar? How can they transform their business to compete effectively and successfully with online retailers?

Online shopping is here to stay and will continue to grow. Retailers should see the online space as an opportunity not a threat, and make sure they are just as competitive in the online space as they are in store. E-commerce and multi channel retailing is set to be worth $36.5 billion in 2013- this is a neon sign of opportunity for retailers to gain market share in an area of growth.

David Shafer is the Executive Director of Kogan Technologies and he will deliver the keynote address at the upcoming ARA seminar on m-commerce and social media – can you give us a brief backgrounder on David and his company? How does his background relate to retail?

David Shafer David Shafer is Executive Director at Kogan (www.kogan.com.au & www.kogan.co.uk), one of the fastest growing online retailers in Australia. He is in charge of ensuring Kogan's continued growth and rapid expansion both in Australia and into global markets. David has been a key adviser to Kogan since its foundation and, since becoming Executive Director in 2010, Kogan has expanded internationally, launched its world first dynamic pricing system called LivePrice, and undergone phenomenal growth.

Who else will be joining the panel on the day for the E-tail seminar?

Some of the other speakers for the day include representatives from Follow Online and eHound (more information below) eHound: With seven years experience in building and delivering store locators for retailers, banks and other financial services clients, eHound can help, whether it’s a store locator for the Web, an ATM finder for iPhone, a stockist locator for your Facebook page, or a Branch locator for your 13, 1300 or 0800 number. http://www.ehoundplatform.com/ Follow Online Follow is the recent winners of the What’s Your Big Idea Queensland Government grant for innovation for their understanding of online social commerce. Follow works with a range of clients from large corporations to smaller hospitality venues and start up companies to develop all branding, digital and marketing needs. They have a strong understanding of ecommerce, using online mechanisms to reflect retail behaviour and design online stores with the persuasive cycle in mind. www.followonline.com.au

This is the third in a series of seminars the ARA have been running in this field of online retail – how successful have they been? What has the response been to each one? And feedback?

The series has been very successful, with some great feedback. Many retailers want to embrace the opportunities the online space has to offer, but are often unsure on where to start. This series not only gives that starting point, it also goes much more in- depth with practical advice on how to incorporate online into your business strategy as well as provide inspiring speakers who are experts in the space.

WHEN: Tuesday 4 October 2011
WHERE: Melbourne Sports & Aquatic Centre, 1 Aughtie Drive, Albert Park Champions Room - Enter through aquatic entry not main entry.
View map for directions Multi deck car park opposite entry / Lakeside Car Park - all day parking $8
COST: Free for ARA and ASGA members Non ARA or ASGA Members $200 inc GST

Download the program HERE.

And to register now, visit HERE.

Fashion News from the Source

With the rapid rate that fashion trends are introduced and collections are released, it can be a unique juggling act keeping up with it all. Thankfully James Boston of FashionSource.com.au has mastered the art and feeds are veracious appetite for the latest and the now.

Fashion Exposed Online recently caught up with him to ask about the history of Fashion Source, common misconceptions of the fashion industry, and what his take his on the current retail environment and whether it is as `dire' as reports make out.

James Boston is the Managing Editor of ATF Magazine, Editor, Publisher and Founder of Window Furnishings Australia, Online editor fashionsource.com.au, textilesource.com.au, and most recently Editor, Publisher and Founder of OR Magazine. Narrowly avoiding a career in finance, James has spent the last decade watching, analysing and writing about the Australian TCF industry in both his own publications as well as a number of mainstream titles.

How did you start fashion source? Was it always something you wanted to start up or did you fall into it?

Fashionsource.com.au and Textilesource.com.au were started in 1999 by my father, who at the time was the editor of our print publication ATF (Australasian Textile and Fashion). He saw the value of web publishing for industry long before many others and also saw the benefits of having a supply chain database online. I didn’t have any plans on getting involved in the business, but when my father fell ill eight years ago, and had to stop working, I was asked to come on board. I went part time with my degrees and despite eventually finishing them, gave up my planned career path in Finance to enter the world of fashion business.

What are some of the common misconceptions about the fashion industry?

From an outsiders point-of-view, that the industry is about catwalks and parties. This is probably only the case for a very small part of the industry and even then it only makes up a very small percentage of working life. In reality the life of a fashion label is one of a constant battle. There are very few barriers to entry in this industry and as a result, there is a constant stream of new labels being released.

The retail environment is being tagged by mainstream media as `dire’ with major chains reporting serious losses in revenue – what is your take on the current climate? Is it as `dire’ as the media make out?

If you look at the long term retail trends, clothing retailing is basically on trend with retailing as a whole over the past ten years. The problem (for some) is this is well below its peak in 2008. There was a brief rebound with the stimulus payments, but since then sales volumes have retreated back to long term levels. The problem for the large bricks and mortar retailers is that they built their businesses on the assumption that this amazing growth experienced during the mid-2000s would go on forever. As a result, high street retailers signed onto hundreds of retail leases in order to increase turnover and grab market share. At the same time, you had a consumer who learnt to shop online and when the dollar rose, suddenly the retail margins of the high street retailers were exposed. What we are seeing now is a fundamental shift in the way fashion retailing works. I believe that anyone who argues against this is just putting their head in the sand and get particularly annoyed when I hear large retailers and department store bosses blaming anything (the internet, the dollar, interest rates, a carbon tax that hasn’t even been legislated yet) for their poor performance while ignoring the fact that their business model is not sustainable.

What is the best part about your job?

Seeing up-and-coming designers succeed in a tough industry and a tough market. There are some incredibly talented people in Australia and I love seeing unique design rather than copies of overseas product on our racks. Unfortunately, due to the conservative nature of Australian consumers and retailers these sorts of success stories are often few and far between.

What advice do you have for aspiring designers looking to break into retail and gain new accounts?

Wholesaling can be difficult, but if you want to follow this path you will have to work hard. The fashion industry is notorious for poor and late payments, so factor this in when you are looking at your cash flow for a year. If you can afford it hire a publicist as often retailers can be quite fickle if they haven’t heard of you before. If you are going to exhibit at a trade event like Fashion Exposed, don’t just expect new accounts to walk up and place orders, make sure you organise appointments with retailers you would like to work with before the show.

Why are events like fashion exposed and premiere vital to the fashion industry?

They provide an excellent platform for the industry to do business. People come to these shows ready to do business or look for new suppliers.

Reaching Out to Regional Retailers

Deb Caldwell is a country chic at heart, and it's this inherent `no fuss' and understanding nature combined with her experienced background in the retail sector, that made her the perfect person for the new Fashion Exposed Regional Ambassador role. In between meetings and driving cross country, Fashion Exposed Online asked Deb about her new role, how the industry has changed since 1984 when she first started out, and the community spirit of the country retailers.

You started out in fashion as a junior sales assistant in the dress fabrics section of fabric wholesaler Spotlight in 1984, then sales rep, agent and importer for the last 10 years – how has this experience prepared you for your current role with Fashion Exposed as regional ambassador?

I think as I have worked on both sides of the retail counter, with retail and wholesale, gives me a well rounded view of the industry. I understand the challenges from the sample concept stage all the way through to the end consumer.

So much has happened in the fashion industry since 1984 when you first started, how has the industry changed since then? What are some of the biggest differences between then and now?

Fashion is ever evolving. There are many more young designers now days who have shown their talents on our catwalks in Australia and Internationally. The great thing with fashion is "anything goes" We have so many beautiful fabrics, textures and colours to work with and combine into works of art. But, like many successful industries, sometimes it doesn't hurt to glance back at past successes. The saying "every thing old - is new again" is testimate to that. For example the current sales on animal print has been phenomenal. Even the regional retailers are enjoying sales on this classic print. Our designers have cleverly taken an "old fav" and given it new life with a new, modern, fun look, that's the great thing about fashion.

You mentioned in the recent Ragtrader interview that while times have been especially tough during the drought etc for regional retailers, they have survived due to the unique community spirit of banding together and supporting local – do you think there is something in that for all of us?

By supporting local and independent retailers in city areas too?Absolutely! Unlike the regioanal consumer, the city consumers are spoilt for choice. If the item you are serching for can not be found at Doncaster, it is not too far to nip over to Chadstone or into the city.

Online shopping is a massive growth area, are there many regional retailers embracing this? And how successful are they?

There was not a large percentage of retailers I spoke to that had their own web sites. There was quite a bit of talk about "looking into it" but many still enjoy having the personal touch when it comes to fashion. Unless you are wanting to buy a Bonds white T-shirt where size and quality is consistant, most women want to see-feel-touch and definitely try on!

How does distance, time and climate affect those who work in regional retail? Or do women who live in the country tend to spend more at one time, even if their shopping trips aren’t as often? What are the typical shopping habits of a regional shopper to those in the city?

The further afield you travel in the country, the less frequently the regional lady will shop, due to distance. If their local shopping area is within an hour of home, most will head into town once per week and sepnd several hours in town.

What was the overall feedback from the regional retailers who attended the recent Fashion Exposed in Melbourne?

"WOW" I think the whole Fashion Exposed experience was very positive. Many people commented on being greeted at the door by FE staff and Myself with a Buyers Guide, directions, information and a smile, was a nice way to start their day. Many people took advantage of the many seminars, work shops and guest speakers and were delighted this was a complimentary service. Those who wanted to head over to Premier thought the shuttle service was fantastic.

What was your favourite part of the role?

Meeting the retailers and visiting so many wonderful stores in beautiful country towns. We really do have a lot to offer consumers in regional areas.

The Stylist Says

Even when you think you have a handle on your own style, it can be tricky keeping track of today’s fickle trends. How do you wear colour blocking without mimicking a fruit bowl; how do you insert pops of neon bright without looking like you’re off to a rave; and how do you translate a runway trend to a street wear level? This is where the industry expert comes in handy. It’s their job to digest trends and fashion them from their elaborate catwalk counterparts to the concrete realities of our urban jungle.

To assist you in this, Premiere boutique trade event for exclusive labels enlisted the help of renowned stylist, Philip Boon who will kindly share his secrets at ‘The Stylist Says Workshop' - an “informative, up to the minute look at modern dressing, presentation and styling in 2011 and beyond.”

Philip is fearless in fashion, especially when it comes to his personal style and encourages everyone to dress for themselves and to `never be afraid’. For an insight into this talented stylist, FEO quizzed him on what it’s like to work with Australia’s renowned fashion designers, how he made the switch from designing to the `perfect job’, his spring summer trend tips.

There is usually a colourful tale behind every talented success story, what is yours? How did you become a stylist?

I was a designer for about 8 years with a couple of lines and a few stores and I was becoming less and less happy with the balance of running the business and designing the ranges so I decided to close my business and move cities and then designed for a while for other companies, became a buyer, worked in PR etc and then was approached by an agent to see if I may be interested in a career in styling, at that time there weren't that many in Australia, not like now with all the competition. So for me it was something I hadn't planned but in time discovered was it was the perfect job for me, I also think its invaluable as a stylist to know how to construct clothing so my designer history proved very helpful.

You have worked with some of Australia’s most celebrated fashion designers within your styling for editorial and runway, who are some of the iconic designers, Aussie and international, you worship?

I'm lucky to say a lot are my friends for many years, one designer/couturier I've known and worked with is Aurelio Costarella, I've known Ray for about 20 years and he continues to inspire me with his talent and designs and have loved seeing his creations on so many huge stars all over the world as well as use a lot in my work. Kirrily Johnston I've known for a long time too and her designs are wonderful and she just gets better and better with every collection, I also really enjoy working with mostly Australian designers as I get to know them and what they are all about which you don't with an international one so much, I love the boys at Leopold, Yoejin Bae, Gwendolyn, Richard Nylon, Trimapee and of course my wonderful friends at Madam Virtue Dean and JC.

Melbourne is a hive of creativity with so many emerging and up-and-coming designer talents, who are some of those undiscovered’s you are helping to unveil?

Well my co host at Fashion Torque, Jenny Bannister and I really feel that it’s our duty to work with and encourage up and coming design talent and so we think that Gavin Lowes and Becky Chua at Neo Dia are totally the ones to watch in the future.

Who are some of your favourite Australian models? Do you have any great behind-the-scenes tales with any celebrities or models you have worked with to share with us?

I think Alice Burdeau is fab, so 70's Jerry Hall and I just worked with Samantha Harris and I love her look.

You are doing an interview style chat called The Stylist Says every day at Premiere – boutique trade event for exclusive labels, what are some of the key tips from your experience that you hope to share with the audience? How will these help and enhance their current business model?

I think over the last twenty years I have been lucky to work in a lot of areas of fashion, from design to retail to styling and creative direction so I will be chatting about the landscape of the modern fashion industry as well as individuals and companies that I think we can all learn from, we will discuss 3 different topics each day of the trade show and how that relates back to selling fashion, which is really what we are all doing.

Why are events like Premiere so important for the Australian fashion industry?

The coming together of like-minded people who believe in a common goal is something that I think inspires you to further your commitment to your chosen field and I think Premiere is going to create a platform for the fashion elite to show their best creations at a time that we need each other more than ever, so the Australian fashion industry may show that it's always working towards high standards.

As a stylist, you are obviously surrounded by clothing, describe your personal style?

I suppose I have a fondness with vintage, the 60's and 70's aesthetic, a time when we all dressed up so I would say my style IS dressed up. I'm not a fan of casual style really when it comes to my own presentation, unless you include kaftans!

What is your personal style philosophy or motto?

Dress for yourself and never be afraid!

What are some of the key spring summer trends we should be investing in for the season?

Well I don't know about investing as I think this is the season for having fun, the world is in all sorts of trouble so I think we need to embrace colour and make all of ourselves feel better, and it needn't be expensive. Lots of trends coming through at the moment but I'll leave that to The Stylist Says Workshop!

Who are your style icons?

On the stylish side, Tom Ford, YSL and on the wild side Alexander McQueen and my legendary co-host Jenny Bannister!

To register for Philip Boon The Stylist Says Workshop, email premierevisitor@aec.net.au

The Question of Price?

If you ask any fashion agent or retailer being offered to take on a new fashion label during these uncertain times, chances are you'll find they both ask the same question. And that question is - What are the prices? With the economy as it is, and with consumers seeking an online alternative for significantly cheaper purchases coming from overseas, the demand for manufacturers and designers to produce value for money garments is critical.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, along with Robert Garland who was described by Ragtrader as “veteran ragtrader”with over 30 years experience. Garland & Garland Fashion is a leading fashion agency based in Sydney, which also offers business mentoring & project management of marketing to the fashion industry.

Ask any retailer how business is, and you will know things are changing very fast for them. Long gone are the days where the customer will buy anything. Now, thanks to the Internet the customer is a very savvy shopper and they are no fool. Here are some of the changes in the consumer.

1. Consumers do not want to pay for basics they can get from any major chain store.
2) Quite often the consumer is now haggling on price for goods from the retailer
3) the consumer is looking for unique yet commercial pieces from their independent boutiques, and of course the consumer is now waiting for the sale thanks to the department stores and chain stores and their incessant discounting.

With all this in mind, the question therefore falls on fashion labels, distributors, importers and manufacturers and also fashion agents to really think about what they are offering the retailer and consumer. Margin is a must for retailers, 100% these days doesn’t account for the crippling rents in some suburbs or for the sometimes zero days. However turnover is more important than ever as well. Labels don’t have to be cheap but they have to offer good value and a point of difference. And you must be aware of the vast competition out there and price yourself accordingly. There was a time where customers would be happy to buy cheap goods, regardless of the quality. Now the ball game has changed.

Fast fashion chain operators like Zara for example is one chain store where I have nothing but admiration. Why? Because before coming to Australia they did their research thoroughly on the Australian climate and got to understand their Australian customer. They realised that essentially to get the volume in this country, you needed to price yourself right and offer great design in fashion, and they understand their customer. The queues at the front speak volumes of the sales they are doing. It may drift off in a few years to come once the novelty wears off. But providing they don’t rest on their laurels and continue to innovate they will do very well.

For example, you go into Zara and you can get a pretty nice linen dress for $70.00. And the quality is pretty good for that price. Sure it won’t last you forever but it’s not meant to and the customer can accept this. The other thing is, Zara is considered a sought after brand and they have been very clever creating that image. The pricing structure for the Australian market is completely on the money and it’s something which Australian manufacturers and designers really need to think about in terms of their own labels. Zara’s short delivery times of 3 weeks in store is also a huge advantage and they were savvy enough to realise they needed to adjust their ranges from the northern hemisphere to suit the southern hemisphere.

While Zara may be outstanding value for money, there still is a demand for medium-priced garments. Consumers will pay money for goods they deem value for money. However manufacturers, designers and distributors really have to look at each garment before pricing to ensure that the RRP is justified. There is a need for the fashion industry to really look at the construction of garments, fabric and quality and ask yourself would you be willing to pay that for yourself or your partner at retail? The new breed of consumers will still pay for certain things. Jackets, leather and fur (and yes they can be faux) are areas that they will spend their money on. And to a certain extent, knitwear. But paying the big dollars for the NZ knitwear has certainly subsided.

There have been smart players, like Z & P Fashions who have re-launched their very established La Dame knitwear and are offering good value for money for garments. They are starting to see the benefits of having ranges that are value for money yet not compromising on quality. However they have been in the industry for many years and fully understand their customer. The area I see the biggest volume of sales in Australia apart from the very established wholesalers, are the labels that do fast turn around time for delivery. And those that offer stock support on best sellers.One of the companies that we represent, took a significant loss in indent sales last winter. But boy they made it up by offering an extended stock support when they realised the loss of winter indent. It was a gutsy move that payed off. Their stock levels for winter were up by 35%! Another smart operator, that was able to read the economic climate correctly and be innovative.

One thing I have learnt in this industry, is the volume of business is not done in high to medium end in Australia. And yes I am devastated at this purely for selfish reasons! Yes, you can have a beautiful label that has gorgeous fabrics, beautiful design and presents beautifully (and yes I am this label's customer) but where real volume of sales lies, is in garments under RRP $150 and less. It’s time for designers to rethink certain fabrics that offer less sell through, and be smart about choosing fabrics that may offer value for money and higher margins and sell through. Unless in the odd exceptions if It’s a very branded product with minimum orders of say $10,000 imposed on each retailer. But even then imposing minimums can have an adverse affect for retailers.

From a manufacturer, fashion agents and distributors point of view you really need to ask yourself a hard question. Do you want to have a product that does medium sales or do you want to do volume sales? And when I am talking volume, I am talking about having a buyer come in and order $45K of product for one boutique. Because yes, that is the type of orders our agency gets on one of our labels. And here is the irony, I for one, would prefer to sell a label that is not necessarily my demographic or my taste, however which is commercial and can do massive volume, and can afford me to buy the medium to higher end brands for myself. As opposed to taking on a brand that is my demographic and is a medium to high end that does little volume and I can’t afford to buy the garments I love because I am not getting the volume orders.

The fashion industry is one industry which is hit the hardest with economic downturns, but with careful, planning, innovation and flexibility with manufacturers and great customer service from retailers, it is not dire. There can be a certain amount of arrogance in this industry and quite often from all sides of the industry. However, I for one won’t tolerate it from anyone during these economic times, now is the time we need to all work together and be flexible and help each other. Ultimately manufacturers, retailers, distributors and agents need to remember this - there is nothing glamorous about labels that do not sell no matter how pretty they may be.

As always, very interested in your thoughts.

Email me at: info@garlands.com.au

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Retail Exposed

VM is a term many of you will be familiar with, but just exactly what does it mean? While the literal translation of the abbreviation is Visual Merchandising, there is so much more to this process than `just a pretty window’. Founder and editor of iSpyStyle, Kate Vandermeer will host a short, sharp and business focused seminar this weekend at Fashion Exposed on the topic of `Understanding Visual Merchandising for your business’. We sat down with Kate to discuss why it’s so important to get the right `product mix’, how to understand your customer to maximise profit, and `rethinking’ your current window display to engage the consumer.

Kate has spent the last 15 years in the Fashion Industry in Australia working in a variety of areas including Trend Forecasting, Marketing, Design Development and Visual Merchandising for Mimco, Decjuba, French Connection, Mogil and co-created and brand managed the online fashion magazine, stylehunter.com.

What does visual merchandising mean to you?

To me its more than just a pretty window. Visual merchandising has the ability to increase your sales, create brand exposure and delight and entertain customers.

Why is it so important for businesses to understand Visual Merchandising?

Many shops tend to focus on getting the right "product mix" which is important, however the way product is displayed can really help sell the look that the buyer was intending. There's a saying that a truly successful business has to have the 4 P's... Product Price Promotion Placement - You really need all 4 elements to work well.

Why will the window display and store layout work for the business down the road but not yours? Explain the importance of tailoring VM to your own store and customer?

VM is all about understanding who your customer is and how they like to shop. It's the merging of function and inspiration. You must create interest to attract your customer time and time again but I believe VM must have a purpose and encourage conversion of sales (whether that's enticing windows to get customers in store or interesting layouts to help the customer shop more easily.)

How can they tailor VM to their specific business? What can they look for when planning the initial design?

It's a great idea to create "mini destination" spots. If your layout is all open plan and there's nowhere to "discover" and get lost in, you'll find a customer can see everything they need to see right when they walk in and therefore they may not take the time to walk in and around the store. Creating obstacles and area's upon which the customer's curiosity gets the better of them is the goal.

How will VM catch the eye of your customer and will it be a vital tool in avoiding financial woes in the current economic climate?

What so many stores do wrongly is to think in times of economic uncertainty, that they can't afford to do interesting VM /windows etc. Its exactly in these times, that stores become "same same" and this is the time to rethink your window displays to create excitement, look at tweaking the internal layout, move fixtures around, wallpaper a feature wall to create interest. I liken it to having a makeover. When you put effort into your appearance, your confidence is electric. When a store looks haggard and sad and a bit depressed, that energy is felt by the customer and the "desperation vibe" is very obvious.

As a regular visitor and speaker at Fashion Exposed over the years, what is your favourite part about the show? And why is it an important platform for retail and buyers?

More than ever, attending trade shows is imperative. It's all about finding an edge and that might be securing a new brand, looking at bringing on a new category or meeting with other like minded people in the industry to connect, network and discuss the issues facing you. My favourite element of the show is definitely the Business Seminar. Whilst I love going to "spy" on what new trends are emerging and discovering new talent, I love being involved and also attending the seminars as so much can be gained from an insightful point of view. When you're busy and caught up in the day to day of your business, it's so important to stand back and think of the big picture when it comes to your business and where it's going. I think the line up this year really covers the most important issues facing the industry today.

Digital Exposed

The retail landscape has changed dramatically in recent months. The introduction of Spanish fashion chain, Zara and the recent announcement of Topshop to our shores has diluted the market with Australian retail giants Myer and David Jones both announcing major annual losses. But that aside, the recent threat to bricks and mortar retail is the growth of e-commerce or online shopping. E-commerce and associated m-commerce (mobile shopping) has sent traditional retail into a spin, but how do you integrate this new phenomenon into your current business model?

We asked Sameiko Landry, group digital manager of Witchery and Mimco Group, to give us the low down on this modern phenomenon before she gives her business seminar this weekend at Fashion Exposed on the topic of `Understanding how to integrate e-commerce into your business’.

We hear the term all the time, but what does e-commerce mean to you?

For me, it really just means online retail. Ability to sell product and/or services on your own branded website or as part of a 3rd party site.

Why is it so important for businesses to understand e-commerce and more importantly to integrate it into their business?

Customers are no longer happy to sit back and wait for their favourite retailers to catch up. They're incredibly savvy and they demand the ability to buy when they want, where they want on whatever device they choose. It's up to us as retailers to enable our customers to interact with us as they wish to. For businesses with bricks and mortar stores, understanding e-commerce is of course important but really the goal should be integrating beyond just e-commerce and towards a truly multi-channel service.

What are some successful examples of e-commerce in the marketplace that you could share to explain its importance in every business?

Surf Stitch is a site I'm really impressed with. It consistently ticks all the boxes of best-practice e-commerce. The caliber of communications and customer fulfillment sites like net-a-porter and mr porter always provide sources of motivation! Australia is definitely going through a very exciting time at the moment. Within the next 6-12 months, we'll see even greater changes in online retailing. I'm really looking forward to us all mixing it with the big overseas players.

How can they tailor e-commerce to their specific business? Is it a matter of hiring an expert or something you can learn and teach yourself?

I think you can absolutely learn the basic principles yourself. However, e-commerce is not generally a part-time position. It requires buy-in and consistent management from key departments including; planning, supply-chain/logistics, marketing and IT. If you can hire an expert then fantastic but there are also some amazing consultants that can assist on an ongoing or project based arrangement. Even just to prioritise what's required from the outset. The best thing about online is that it's measurable. Testing is so important and takes the guessing out of decision making.

Is this a vital tool in avoiding financial woes in the current economic climate?

Customer fulfillment is critical so if you feel you can service your customer beyond their expectations then e-commerce should absolutely assist. An online store is not a set and forget arrangement. If you don't enhance your offering regularly, before you know it, you're playing catchup.

As a speaker at Fashion Exposed this month, what are you looking forward to most at the show? And why is it an important platform for retail and buyers?

I'm just excited at how the industry is transforming and I think every year the show reflects this. It provides such a great opportunity to learn and meet new people in a time where everyone is so incredibly busy.

PROMOTION: Special Offer

FASHIONTREND Australia has just launched its July edition. The ‘Rebel' themed issue is dedicated to emerging creative talent.

Wrapped around over 150 pages of fashion delights is a cover featuring the retro glamour hair stylings of none other than the talented Brad Ngata. Readers can also reflect on Australian Fashion Week with beautiful runway and backstage imagery, while scouring the international runways of Milan and the Big Apple for Fall/Winter trends.

Thanks to FASHIONTREND magazine, Fashion Exposed Online has three glossy copies of their latest issue (valued at $20) to give away.

To win simply email Fashion Exposed Online editor Sacha Strebe at sacha.strebe@aec.net.au and explain in 25 words or less what your favourite `rebel’ memory is?

Remember to include your full name and postal address.

The winner will be announced on August 10.

You can pick up the latest issue at at MAG NATION and leading newsagents nationally.

www.fashiontrend.com.au

The end of more than just an era... and the red-tape problem that is inhibiting textile manufacturing in Australia

Phoebe Garland Co-owner & Co-founder – Garland & Garland Fashion Pty Ltd Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, a leading fashion agency based in Sydney, which also offers business mentoring & project management of marketing to the fashion industry. www.garlands.com.au

There are only a handful of fashion designers that you can call iconic in this country, and Jenny Bannister is definitely one of those designers. With so much fast fashion around courtesy of the ZARA’s, the Jenny Bannister label was the complete opposite. Bannister stems from the day designers were taught pattern making skills and had their own original creations, and were able to make a commercial success out of them. The Jenny Bannister was a very successful label stemming from the 1970’s. It started out in couture and eventually moved into contemporary evening wear broadening her commercial success. The Bannister label has had a very strong wholesale and retail business and not to mention a celebrity following with the label highly collected and sought after. Her designs are featured prominently in the Melbourne Fashion Festival and her pieces have also recently been auctioned at Christie's as well as being collected by major art galleries and museums. In 2005, she was honoured on a commemorative Australian postage stamp, along with other Australian fashion designers, Collette Dinnigan, Akira Isogawa, Joe Saba, Carla Zampatti and fellow RMIT alum Prue Acton.

Sadly in 2009, The Jenny Bannister label ceased due to endless problems associated with producing the line, union issues, and unable to find makers proved all too much for this lovable designer. She cited many reasons, including the ''nightmare task'' of keeping up with confusing paperwork required by the Clothing Trades Award 1999 and constant fear of fines up to $10,000 for even accidental non-compliance.

It’s no secret that Bannister and I speak almost daily on Facebook and quite often chat on long threads about the latest issues in the fashion industry. But it is the problems associated with manufacturing her label in Australia that I felt really needed to be highlighted, especially for small fashion labels. The serious demise of small makers and the catch 22 of the unions wishing to protect workers rights are having a devastating effect on any future manufacturing for small businesses and employment in Australian fashion. I asked Jenny about the demise of her label and what exactly went on behind the scenes to lead to such a sad ending of such an iconic brand.

Describe what happened to the demise of the iconic Jenny Bannister label with some of your manufacturing problems?
Jenny Bannister: The demise of JB label was due to a lack of skilled dressmakers available to do small runs, cost no problem, lack of factories still up and working to do the work, and all the forms to be filled in, to be sent to the union for each order of work.

Enlighten us about some of the codes of practice you need to watch out for especially for emerging designers manufacturing in Australia.
Jenny Bannister: To stay in business, a label must apply for a board of reference number (BOR). This number must be printed on all paperwork in the production line; The original BOR form must list all makers, their addresses and phone numbers. If they give work out to another party they must tell the designer, and more forms are to be filled in. If you don't know what your makers are doing with your work, and it has gone to another party, the designer will be fined $10,000 for each breach of the award. If you don't register for a BOR number, the designer is automatically fined $10,000 for a start, and then in multiples of $10,000 for each breach of the award. You must send in your BOR forms every 3 months to two different union bodies. The Union goes around to the makers to inspect the working books, If things don't fit together in the awards framework. The designer gets all the fines; sometimes a factory can get them too, But mainly the designer.

Do you think the unions are inhibiting small manufacturing in Australia?
Jenny Bannister: Small up and coming designers, and small run specialty designers can't work in this set up for love of ethical etc. Good makers don't come cheap, trouble is they don't come at all theses days! In the past, to get a run of 6 all the same, a designer would look up the local paper for the dress making advertisements. Here you could find registered businesses, making 6 bridesmaids, Usually located in an old shop or at home. Paper work for the taxman was used, when GST came in they all registered for an ABN or went underground. Now there are no dressmaker’s adverts in the local papers and factories just sigh when you only need 10 garments made.

Is working from home what the sewers want and suits their lifestyle?
Jenny Bannister: Working at home is something a lot of people want to do however in the garment industry it’s not allowed anymore, The unions have made it impossible to work at home as an independent business, the only people allowed to work at home by the union award have to work as if they were in a factory, following hourly rates, break times, overtime penalties, sick days, holidays and super contributions. The designer must treat the home worker as if they are with the designer in a factory, and pay all the costs. The worker cannot have their own business at home, it is forbidden by the union. When I closed down I had a few contractors who I enrolled with an employment agency, to get them work. After 2 weeks the agency rang me and said, "Sorry, they all want to work at home, I can't find them any work". These registered contractors knew they could earn much more by working their hours and times of the year, and charge me and other designers much more than sitting in a dingy factory all year. They also had the luxury of travelling overseas whenever they liked, with out asking for time off.

What is the difference between outworkers and contractors? Your makers actually had their own businesses so how could they be considered 'outworkers' in the eyes of the unions? Jenny Bannister: The difference between outworkers and contractors is a very grey area in the Textile award. So grey in fact I employed the services of the Fairwork Ombudsman to make it clear for all concerned after interviewing my contractors he declared in writing "That they were all contractors”. Contractors are a registered business with an ABN number, charge GST, pay their own tax, super, work cover, sick pay, holidays etc. They are the boss. They invoice the designer and charge them GST. They only do the work they want at they price they ask. Out workers are delivered cut work, with a time line and a stipulated price per item. The designer and factory are responsible for all their entitlements and tax, (I never used this sort of labour so I don't know it inside out) When the unions inspected my business it was in 2006. They were of the opinion that anyone conducting work from their home, was an "outworker," Well I ran my company out of my residential C Home for 21 years with a council permit, and that was all good. We were all working at home, as rents were climbing so high, it was too expensive and stressful to hire other premises. Travel to work time, was also a big factor in staying at home to work. Most girls who worked in my studio wasted 1 hour morning and night, just to drive to and from work. After 3 years of stress, I knew it was no use trying to keep afloat.

Do you have to pay your makers superannuation if they are not technically employees of your business?
Jenny Bannister: Paying super to outworkers is mandatory by the Textile award. As to who should be paying it (factory or designer is another strange grey area) You would think that, as a designer, if you take your order to a factory, that the factory will just add all their overheads into your garments, and you just pay their invoice. Well it seems, that's not the case in the fashion industry.

Thank you Jenny for your insight into such a sad demise of manufacturing. Not to mention the demise of such an iconic label. While no one wishes for workers to be treated badly or treated unethically, it seems to me to be a complete catch 22 in protecting workers rights that are inhibiting any jobs for workers in the process. The irony about the closure of Jenny Bannister label is that she is one of the few designers that wanted to make in Australia in ethical conditions and is completely against manufacturing in Asia. The Gillard government has apparently given the textile unions 4 million dollars to encourage ethically made garments in Australia. With the majority of textile manufacturing shifted overseas courtesy of the Button Plan in the 1980’s, it is more important than ever to protect this small textile manufacturing in Australia. But my question is, will there be any garment makers left for fear of union inspections and fear of $10,000 fines? And therefore how will unions protect workers jobs if there are no jobs left to protect?

Jenny Bannister now co-hosts Fashion Torque along with celebrity stylist Phillip Boon at Globe Café, a monthly event, which is an open invitation to talk the latest topics of the fashion industry and listen to key note speaker and topics. Visit them on Facebook: www.facebook.com/FashionTorqueShow

As always, very interested in your thoughts. Email me at: info@garlands.com.au
Join us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/garlandandgarlandfashion or Twitter: www.twitter.com/garlandfashion

How to Increase Profit in your Business

Today, it isnot enough to invest in a fashion business and have the guarantee of success. The world economy and the changes in buying patterns and customer’s expectations have changed, so therein lies the necessity for boutiques to change their approach to business.

The formula for a profitable business is; Margin + product/mix + turnover + marketing/image = PROFIT
The `old formula’ is; Sales + product + turnover = $

The difference is the business is no longer driven by $ SALES and PRODUCT. The business model is driven by MARGIN and TURNOVER. Successful labels give you high turnover and high margin and in return the product must be reliable in quality, styling and delivery.

Imagine your store is 500 sq feet (average size of a fashion boutique);

1. What is your operating MARGIN? (incl. full price and markdown sales)
2. What should the average retail price point be?
3. What is the store image? who is your target customer?
4. How many labels should you carry?
5. What is the product mix? What should the ratio of indent labels to in season COD labels be?

All these questions are now attributed to the integrity and success of today’s fashion boutique.

Deborah Sterry and Ian Perkins will be guest speakers at the Fashion Exposed regional seminars on Monday August 29th from 2.30-3.30 to discuss, "The changing face of the Fashion Boutique - change how you do business today to succeed for tomorrow". These one hour seminars are complimentary for Club Card Members and regional visitors. They are held in the hospitality suites at Fashion Exposed, seats are limited, so reserve your spot to avoid disappointment. Book now, visit here.

Swimwear goes retro

The swimwear season is soon to be in full swing with retro vibes taking over as bandeau bras and high waisted briefs dominating both the runway's and latest editorials

Eryn Behan is director of Ginger Trend Consulting, a trend analayst and a provider of fashion forecast services and consumer insight trends to the fashion and interior design industries throughout Australasia.

The Inspiration: This summer season fashion-forward females find inspiration in the retro styling of the 1940s and 1950s as bikinis turn bigger, prompting a pin-up girl aesthetic. Original pin-up girls Grace Kelly and Betty Grable become key figures, inspiring contemporary takes from fashionistas worldwide; cue polka dot prints, gingham checks, and high-waisted briefs.

The Runway: A retro undercurrent dominated swimwear on spring/summer 11 runways with an abundance of corset and bandeau bras teamed with big high-waisted knickers. Bright white proved to be a favourite choice of colour along with soft oyster and silver shades.

The Changing Face of Boutique Retailing

GLOBILISATION is shrinking the market share, due not to the large retailers but the internet.

Let’s have a look at the Internet “effect”:

- Large retailers like Harvey Norman in electrical are up against catchoftheday.com. This site sold $1m worth of Samsung Lcd TV’s in 1 hour and shipped 100,000 parcels in Dec 2010.

- Department stores who have been used to dominating the market, are now up against online stores such as Lasoo.net who have approximately 2.5 mil users a month, and huge cosmetics site strawberrynet.com who now dominates the online cosmetics industry.

- The chain stores such as Portmans and Sportsgirl are competing now with International UK giant, topshop.com who now receives 25% of their online sales from Australia.

- Large businesses have reacted to this online onslaught by price cutting and ongoing discounts.

- Take the current supermarket price war for example with their daily discounts on commodities like bread, milk at below cost prices, or the David Jones versus Myer department store war who seem perpetually “ON SALE”.

HOW do the small and medium boutique retailers compete and prosper?
As simple as changing the way they currently view and run their businesses.

• #1 SELL through different revenue streams; Increase your profile and accessibility to the consumer by extending business hours and establishing your own boutique internet site 24/7 to increase your customer reach.
• #2 INCREASE YOUR MARGIN! It allows the retailer to have accessibility to cash flow to spend more on expansion into their business.
• #3 BUY PRODUCT in season and offer variety of product by new stock deliveries every week or even every day. Manage stock inventories according to the sales flow.
• #4 Offer personal service, know your customer - that is the foundation of the independent boutique’s business and will always be superior to the large retailer.
• #5 Maintain quality and offer product that is value for money, not be motivated by price only.
• #6 ADD “WOW” factor to your business, make it exciting and give your boutique a social network image as well as a store image.

EMBRACE THE CHANGES. SEE THEM AS OPPORTUNITIES AND CHANGE THE WAY YOU OPERATE, NOT ON PRICE BUT WITH MARGINS. OFFER THE CONSUMER PRODUCT THEY WANT, WHEN THEY WANT IT.

Deborah Sterry and Ian Perkins will be guest speakers at the Fashion Exposed regional seminars on Monday August 29th from 2.30-3.30 to discuss, "The changing face of the Fashion Boutique - change how you do business today to succeed for tomorrow".
These one hour seminars are complimentary for Club Card Members and regional visitors. They are held in the hospitality suites at Fashion Exposed, seats are limited, so reserve your spot to avoid disappointment.
Book now, visit here.

The cost of bad debts

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, a leading fashion agency based in Sydney, which also offers business mentoring & project management of marketing to the fashion industry. www.garlands.com.au

Recently, Samantha Hardman, owner of Bento, an emerging fashion label posted a blog on her website “The cost isn’t about the dollars” which was reproduced in Ragtrader Online. It caused an amazing response from manufacturers and wholesalers about the issue of non-payment. Slow payment in this industry and sometimes no payment in the fashion industry has been an ongoing problem, and is only getting worse.

Whilst I am extremely sympathetic to retailers and totally understand the difficulties faced with constant discounting by department stores & influx of chain stores, her blog did raise some interesting points particularly, comments from the wholesalers and manufacturers. Most wholesale comments were leaning towards a ‘naming and shaming’ database of constant bad payers, which in some instances I have to agree with, for the very bad ones. However this is heavily controversial! (There could be some tough manufacturers who don’t give an inch to compromise and abuse this system).

On the other side of the coin there is another type of retailer who may be a slow payer and genuinely can’t pay all at once and is trading through a bad patch. As I am technically considered a ‘middle-man” aka, a fashion agent, I see both sides of the problem from a manufacturers point of view and from a retailers point of view. This problem is a frustrating for all involved and can have devastating flow on effects from retailer, to manufacture to agent, to makers. Essential retailers don’t pay we don’t get paid.

I think one of the biggest frustrations we have is when a retailer is not communicating with wholesalers/manufacturers and not attempting to work out a payment system. Retailers, as much as I adore you at times, it CAN be like getting through to the royal family trying to reach some of you and it’s perhaps not the most professional way to behave, especially when payment is owed.

One area I think manufacturers can help themselves is assessing each order and staggering large deliveries over a couple of months to ensure retailers can get adequate sell through before payment is due. If an order looks too good to be true it usually is. Assess it before just delivering the entire amount and expecting the retailer to pay the entire amount within 7 days. Staggering invoicing into realistic breakdowns and staggering deliveries can help cash flow for everyone. Earlier deliveries should also be looked at especially with the department stores going on sale earlier each year.

The fashion industry is getting harder and not easier and I think ultimately we need to all remember we all need each other more than ever. Playing hard-ball, is probably not the best idea at the moment, unless absolutely necessary and there has been no communication between the parties. Retailers need to think about online methods in conjunction for their businesses and also Facebook and Twitter interaction to engage potential customers and help to turn over stock constantly and get the sales in. Looking outside the square and thinking “Innovation” is imperative.

Let us remember that retailers need product, wholesalers need retailers and makers and agents need you to work together to keep our industry thriving.

Let us know your thoughts!

Email us, info@garlands.com.au or follow us on Facebook and Twitter

Autumn Winter Trends 2011-12

Sue Evans is the Senior Editor, Catwalks at WGSN – the global leader in fashion and style forecasting. Since graduating from the Royal College of Art, Sue had a long distinguished career in trend forecasting and fashion consultancy, working with international retailers and manufacturers including Onward Kashiyama, Isetan, Bloomingdale’s, Coca-Cola, Shiseido and Arcadia. Sue has been with WGSN since its launch in 1998 and was instrumental in creating the Catwalks, What’s in Store and Close-to-Season directories.

There are three strong key messages underscoring the trends for autumn/winter 11/12. One of the most important is the fact that fashion is slowing down and trends are taking far longer to evolve and peak with retailers and manufacturers working to longer lead times in deference to the slowdown in consumer spending. We can also expect to see a growing confidence in the use of colour, evolving from the riot of summer brights currently on the high street. The final key message directing trends for next winter is the continuing fascination with all things vintage as catwalk designers looked to the last century’s fashion archive for inspiration.

Colour will certainly help drive the market with an unusually colourful winter palette bringing a sense of newness to established best sellers – especially in the area of outerwear and accessories. We are seeing 3 distinct palettes emerge; the rich autumnal brights, which revolve around intense saturated colours like marigold, cognac brown, grenadine and cool mallard greens; a range of graphic pop brights centred around vivid orange, Kelly green, vermillion, cobalt blue and sunshine yellow; and to add a quiet note of contrast, the luxe neutrals -- black and winter white, camel, grey and blush.

There are strong fabric directions for next season too, with an accent on the importance of wool, from the soft weightless luxury of cashmere to lofty mohairs or plush-touch brushed finishes, and of course brightly coloured checks and traditional tweeds. Designers continued to opt for the luxe touch of furs, from curly shearlings to the drama of vintage-style long-haired goat or Mongolian lamb, as well as brightly coloured furs such as fox - all highly applicable for development for the more commercial aspects of faux furs. The tactile feel continues with plush velvet – particularly strong for accessories -- and don’t underestimate the importance of recoloured suede for everything from dresses to skirts and casual tops and of course for footwear and bags. Expect to see lace evolve for another season, recoloured in the season’s fashion colours and in heavier weights like guipure, while sequins add a touch of glamour for party and evening.

Country themes come into play for print and pattern with an emphasis on richly coloured bird prints, autumnal foliage and the continuation of florals, contrasted with the more graphic qualities of winter stripes, chevrons and bold colour blocking. Other key print directions include colourful Paisleys, scrolling Baroque imagery and snakeskin – a really key pattern trend for accessories.

Those are all the building blocks for the season ahead and we can expect to see them translated into the season’s key looks which draw on the early 70s, the pop 60s, 50s collegiate -‘varsity looks and the cinematic 40s for inspiration. Overall silhouettes are for longer midi skirt lengths, the continuation of wide 70s pants, graphic coat shapes, cropped jackets to balance those fuller bottomweights, androgynous tuxedo dressing and simple shift dresses, all worn with high block heeled loafers, high-heeled Chelsea boots, 40s-style wedges and boxy 70s bag shapes.

A stitch in time saves nine - the art of the post-seasonal

Ever wondered why you have so much discounted stock at the end of each season? Want to know how you can shrink your store’s reduced rack? Renowned buyer and industry figurehead Sarah Gale says every business could effectively streamline their operation and cut down costs by completing a post seasonal analysis.

Fashionista Business Consultancy Group director, Sarah Gale is synonymous with the fashion industry and is renowned for her astute business acumen and understanding of the Australian fashion retail landscape. She's worked with major players Portmans, Sportsgirl, Kmart, Target, Witchery and Jacqui E.

For those who have never heard the terminology `post seasonal analysis’, in short, it is a `dissection of sales and profit figures to create an overall picture of season performance’. While at first this may sound time-consuming, and perhaps even a little confusing, Gale insists you will actually gain back time because your business will be running more efficiently.
"Whether you own one store or are a multi site operator, if you are neglecting this fundamental step in the buying process you are playing Russian roulette with your business."

So what does it entail and how do we get started?

Throughout the season, Sarah recommends you break up the ranges into categories from dresses to denim, tops to knitwear and pants. “A lot of people buy in ranges and don’t look at where they are duplicating sales throughout the season,” says Gale.
“Often when you buy a full range you don’t always take this into consideration and so you should always ask yourself `how many pants options do I really need within my store?’.
Secondly, understand your business and define the customer segments you sit within.
“Quite often they know their mix, but don’t know the percentage and that is vital because you can overbuy in one area and completely ignore another,” she says. “So I can help them to really understand what that is.”
Thirdly, Sarah says you should assemble the figures of what you have sold over the season, then categorise this into different customer segments.
“Each business won’t have just one customer segment, it can often cross over into many different segments, but you’d be surprised how unbalanced many businesses are?”

After you have actioned this, then it’s time to analyse the overall sales results, markdown results and size breakups to really work out what has sold, what hasn’t and why.
“The why is what is really important, as that is where your key measure is,” says Sarah. “One of the hardest things for people to measure is missed sales.”
“Unless you have the training and analytical mind, doubled up with the mechanical mind and understanding of the market now, you will not be able to potentialise your sales."
But this can be difficult, especially when you are so close to the business. Sarah knows that analysing during the season can sometimes be the worst time and you often can’t be as objective as you need to.
By having a close look at the gaps, Sarah says you are then able to clearly see which products have performed the best, and why you’ve been left with mark downs.
“It’s really important that you don’t just analyse figures, you analyse the figures and the merchandise, which allows you an opportunity to find the gaps during the season,” she says.

Over the years, Sarah has heard many businesses say `It just didn’t sell?’, but she believes there is always a reason. One of the major issues for a smaller business' is they often tend to sell and re-buy within a repeated pattern.
“Once you know how to analyse, you can write up a succinct plan before you go to your next buy,” she says.
But it isn’t just small businesses that can benefit from a post seasonal analysis, Sarah says she has worked with multi-million dollar companies and even designers.
“I work with them to look at what they are offering their clientele, how their range looks, that it’s succinct and not duplicated and they are all getting great results,” she says.

Regardless of consumer or retail land, Sarah believes a post seasonal analysis will see your markdowns decrease, sales increase and profits improve.
“This analysis is key beyond all keys, this is the key to success in your business,” she says. “If you are going out to buy a new season you cannot do it responsibly without this analysis. “It should be part of your business planning budget, for the money you spend on a process like this it will save you buying stock you didn’t need.
“It far out ways the amount you spend on markdowns, and missed incremental sales, and that is the saddest part for me.”

And it doesn’t take long to get results, Sarah says for a business size of 15 stores and upwards, it can take two days to get through it which includes what options they’ll need going forward. For a smaller business it should only take a day.
“When you are going to bake a meal, if you don’t have the right ingredient to begin with then it isn’t going to work, so think of your stock as ingredients,” she says.
“My job is to skill people so they don’t need me all the time. I talk the business through everything I am doing, so they can understand and take it on, so when they are comfortable they can then do it themselves.”

For more information visit her website, www.sarahgale.com.au
Or email her direct, info@sarahgale.com.au

The Art of Selling

The term salesman is something that can send shivers up a spine.
Images can evoke of pushy real estate men, used-car salesmen and even worse, pyramid selling people. However it doesn’t have to be like that at all.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, a leading fashion agency based in Sydney. which also offers business mentoring & project management of marketing to the fashion industry. www.garlands.com.au

The best sales people are people who won’t even appear to be selling to you. You will believe that the person honestly cares about you and your business and here’s the thing – they actually will. Instead of a dodgy sales person you will see a person who has thorough product knowledge and who is passionate, not pushy.

A good salesperson will be all the things they appear and they will mean what they say and have complete integrity.
For example, the other day we turned down a 100k+ order. Yes you heard right. We turned it down, didn’t even attempt to sell to her. It wasn’t easy, but it was the right decision.
Why? Because we are deeply concerned about this retailer’s business and their mounting debts and we are very keen to keep them in business for the long term, even if that means turning away large orders for the short term, we are prepared to do that. Sometimes the best sales strategy is actually not to sell, developing trust in sales is imperative.

To gain consistency in sales in any industry, your long-term goal is obviously repeat business and there is no point in taking one order if they aren’t going to be around for the next one. One of the best lessons I learned in my early days of sales was to build loyalty, credibility, trust and to help people.

I had a wonderful ex-boss who became a great friend, and she gained a lot of loyalty and love from her clients through her nurturing and caring approach. Through helping people (it doesn’t matter which industry you work in) you gain trust and credibility and in the long term sales will usually follow.

Here are my top sales tips:

• Understand the product you are selling, gain knowledge of it so you can sell to others.
• When you get the sale, ensure you keep a good relationship with that person afterwards.
• Help people, give them your time, gain trust by acting with integrity, don’t be a rookie.
• Don’t speak badly about your competitors – it reflects badly on you and is bad salesmanship.
• Empower the person you are selling to, make them feel confident in what they are buying, don’t be patronizing or bully them, understand their business to tailor sell the right things to them.
• Be honest about certain shortcomings in a fashion range, if something is a better alternative for the price or suits them better, suggest it, they will appreciate your honesty.
• Be courteous about rejection, the biggest sales mistake is to dismiss someone when you don’t get a sale. They will remember you for being nasty to them, and this applies to retail and wholesale.

Tell us about your best and worst sales experience email: info@garlands.com.au
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The Art of Fashion

Perpetual muse, art collector and wild bohemian Peggy Guggenheim emerges as this seasons favourite style icon, inspiring fashion fans to take a thoroughly artful approach to the curation of their spring/summer 11 wardrobe.

Somewhere between high society debutante and eccentric art teacher, the look requires an array of saturated floral, geometric and modern art prints clashed with a sharp tailored finish.
A smattering of accessories pays homage to Guggenheim’s eclectic collector status with turbans and harlequin sunglasses earning most kudos.

The Inspiration:

As Prada release their SS11 campaign for ‘minimal baroque’, the sunglasses range bears a strong reference to the art collector and this season’s muse Peggy Guggenheim. Guggenheim’s avant-garde style and penchant for eccentric accessories, including her characteristic harlequin shades, has influenced quirky editorials and advertisements worldwide.

High street stores follow suit with bold look book images translating the daring art inspired look in commercial and desirable ways.

Blog: Where Experience Counts

There are some key players in the fashion industry that just can't seem to keep away, they have lived and breathed the fashion industry through the good and bad. They have seen recessions, the thriving periods of wholesale and retail in the early days and have moved with the times by adapting their fashion businesses to vastly differing and varying climates.

Phoebe Garland co-owns Garland & Garland Fashion, a leading fashion agency based in Sydney. which also offers business mentoring & project management of marketing to the fashion industry. www.garlands.com.au

I posed some questions to long-standing industry manufacturers & retailers Danny Avidan, C.E.O of Discovery Group, the iconic Joseph Saba and Danny Guest, C.E.O of Blue Illusion label and retail stores.

While accountability has never been more relevant Danny Avidan claims to have the answer to producing labels that sell. "The right strategy is to have a range plan that dictates the number of SKU's (Stock Keeping Units) into each range, as well as defining the correct occasions and price points within each delivery period. Importantly the plan ought to be influenced by the trends and customers needs for each delivery period".

Joseph Saba, says the fundamental components for creating a successful range is the fabric. "My ranges always start with the fabric. The choice of fabric – colour, print, functionality, quality – all have to work together, then the style selection builds on from the fabrics".

With challenging retail conditions I asked Avidan what his thoughts were for innovative retailing. "Retailers ought to focus on a particular market segment, stay ahead of the competition on all fronts and offer additional service that others fail to address (eg stylist on hand, free alteration, unique VIP club)", Avidan states.

Being in the industry since 1965, Joe opened his first store, the 'Joseph Saba Shirt and Sweater Shop' in Flinders Lane. He went on to create the famous Staggers jeans label, which revolutionised jeans in Australia in the 1970's. He then introduced his now famous Saba brand in 1974, building the business up to 17 stores before selling the Saba business in 2002 and now is head designer for josephsaba.com.au and works alongside his wife Marita. He was also honoured with The Australian legends in Fashion with his own postage stamp in 2005.

I asked Joseph if he thought the same strategies he used years ago could be used today for launching a label. "No, today you really have to plan out your ranges and your business and know what you're getting in to and who your customer is – you need more of a business head now than you did 20 to 30 years ago. There's far more competition now – and you need to create your niche"

While Danny Guest has over 70 Blue Illusion retail stores, he discusses the secrets to surviving difficult retail periods and how they have evolved their business "We opened our first store 1998 in a quest to understand the challenges our retail accounts were faced with. What we learnt was: There are no difficult periods - only relative periods to last year's performance. You need to constantly work on differentiation whilst building brand equity. Look after your core customers and always strive to build strong brand loyalty. A passionate team with a positive service culture is a must. Retail is detail. Constantly looking for the many 1% improvements."

Wise words indeed from fashion industry veterans, it seems the key to success is adaption and innovation. I for one, look forward to seeing these businesses continue for many more years to come.

As always, very interested in your thoughts. Email me at: info@garlands.com.au
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Blog: Is there a future for Australian Made fashion?

Some of Australia's best loved independent fashion identities have shut up shop recently, after struggling for years against skyrocketing overheads and punitive overseas minimums, but as Phoebe Garland writes, there's still cause for optimism.

I recently formed a friendship, with the lovable and iconic fashion designer Jenny Bannister - who not long ago was honoured on a commemorative Australian postage stamp as one the Australian Legends in Fashion. Jenny and her business partner, celebrity stylist Phillip Boon, have created a weekly discussion event called Fashion Torque, covering a wide spectrum of key topics for the fashion industry from consumer to trade. One ‘Torque' topic that's particularly close to their hearts, and is shared by me, is a passion for encouraging independent retailers and emerging designers to succeed and survive in Australia. We all believe it's vital to highlight the significance of Made in Australia and the importance of keeping small manufacturers afloat; indeed, of keeping all aspects of the Australian fashion industry thriving.

Jenny's comments during one of my catch-ups with her in Melbourne recently paint a gloomy picture of how the demise of local manufacturing is creating a skills shortage, resulting in a vicious cycle that bodes ill for industry.

"Skilled production is what we fall short on. No one wants to sew anymore, and the people who can sew mainly work from home, as it is too expensive to run a year-round, full time factory, due to the cost of an Australian made garments being too high for the average Australian to afford. It's a no win situation. Australian fashion for the average Australian will have to be made off shore in cheap labour locations. Rents and wages are so high here, only the rich can afford designer made in Australia"

And Jenny should know! As an independent retailer and manufacturer, after her face appeared on the Australian Legends in Fashion stamp, her landlord doubled her rent, making it impossible for her business to survive. With the influx of overseas chains looking to Australia as a good opportunity to expand, it's more important than ever to keep our fashion industry thriving through innovative retailing and also supporting Made in Australia manufacturers. Recently we also saw another iconic fashion designer and retailer, Michael Bracewell closing his shops after 23 in business and leaving the industry saying "I have had enough. It's just too tough out there; there's no fun anymore - it's a constant struggle."

We have emerging designers graduating from colleges in a "catch-22" situation, unable to meet the minimum requirements of overseas factories and yet unable to find factories in Australia as so many are closing. I urge all retailers to support Australian Made labels as much as possible. Look at innovative retailing through online methods and, instead of competing with each other, work with other retailers in non-conflicting areas to exchange stock and lessen markdowns.

Let's work together to keep our independent Australian retailers, Australian factories and emerging Australian designers in business.

We'd love to hear your thoughts on how to support Made in Australia fashion, so please get in touch!

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Blog: Volume or va-va-voom?

Pitch sheer daggy-dom against high-end, directional design and the winner in terms of sales is patently obvious, right? Or is it? As Phoebe Garland attests, the answer is not always straightforward.

Robert and Phoebe Garland run and own Garland & Garland Fashion, a leading fashion agency based in Sydney. which also offers business mentoring & project management of marketing to the fashion industry. www.garlands.com.au

Fashion is a funny business; you can stock the most beautiful garment in the world and it will sit in your store staring at you for an unnervingly long time, until pangs of doubt start to gnaw... On the other hand, an oh-so-ordinary piece made from questionable fabric and bearing a little-known brand name can become a star seller... sparking more pangs of doubt, along with an unexpected boon for your bottom line, thank you very much!

Which brings me to my husband's theory, born of working in the industry for over 30 years, that there's no accounting for customer taste. While we laugh at Kath and Kim (think that amusing episode where they are at the international airport and miss their plane because they are too busy buying Coogi jumpers), the irony is that accepted notions of "good taste" do not always drive sales.

Take that dubious garment, the ‘Snuggie', a fleecy blanket/poncho with sleeves, which emerged some years ago and which those of us who consider ourselves stylish would rather forget... The Snuggie TV ad was laughed at by everyone and rightfully so. This was, after all, a hideously ugly garment that made you look like a priest and deserved its own standalone category of gruesomeness. However my husband Rob predicted it would be a winner. His words were: "I bet this sells like hotcakes. It's quite a genius business idea when you think of it; one size, in two colours - no fit problems, one cheap fleece, massive margins."

To my horror he was right. The makers of Snuggie ended up laughing all the way to the bank, with record sales figures going over $7 million.

Let's face it, no-one dreams of selling ‘unfashionable' brands. It's just not what anyone wants to do when working in fashion, myself included - I am a pathetic brand snob. However, the reality is that some of these so called "unfashionable' brands can generate the highest volume of sales.

We represent quite a few labels, however ironically our business is still very dependent on the least fashionable one, a leading leisurewear brand in its category. It's not chic by any stretch of the imagination. It's leisure wear targeted at the elderly market and its best sellers are elastic waisted pants, simple T-shirts and fleeces. But the volume of sales it does would make high-end designers weep with envy.

We have one retailer who likes to stock the ‘better end brands' and refuses to put the label on her shop floor due to its look, which clashes somewhat with the slick pieces on display. Instead she sticks a sign in the window advertising the brand, and takes people through the shop out back to view it. Despite the look of the product, she is smart enough to know that she cannot afford not to stock it because it does such strong sales.

The moral of the story? Don't judge a book by its cover. Or in fashion terms... Don't judge a look by your love for it.

When sourcing labels, look beyond just what you personally like. Instead, think about how much your bottom line will like those cringe-worthy yet "commercial" pieces.

Tell us which least fashionable product sells for you and why does it sell so well?

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The style equation

Clean lines and figures provide the perfect formula for A/W 11/12 dressing, as GTC's Eryn Behan reports.

Eryn Behan is director of Ginger Trend Consulting, a leading provider of fashion forecast services and consumer insight trends to the fashion and interior design industries throughout Australasia.

In April 2010 Mpdclick published its forecast trends for autumn/winter 2012.
‘Innovate' heralded science as the saviour of our modern world, with the race for new discovery pushing a scientific aesthetic. Maths formed the backbone of the trend's ‘Quantum' direction celebrating carefully calculated shapes, linear silhouettes and geometric panels, graphics and prints.

With Paris Fashion Week closing the autumn/winter 11/12 season recently a deluge of ‘Quantum' infused looks have stormed the international runways, confirming that this mathematical look is soon to hit the stores. Savvy street stylers are already bagging and customising whatever geometric goodies they can find to be the first to create the powerful high fashion look.

Images:

1. _jasper_conran
2. _faculty_ksu.edu.sa
3. _peter_pilotto
4. _mr_newton
5. _jonathan_saunders
6. _life_is_carbol
7. _facehunter

www.gingertc.com.au

Blog: The F-word

Fashion is known for stretching boundaries, but certain areas still remain 'no-go'. Phoebe Garland investigates...

There is one word that causes much debate in the fashion world and it begins with F.

Fur.

It's a topic we are almost forbidden to talk about in Australia; it seems to fall into the same category as smoking, infidelity, racism and many other "no-go" areas. Understandably fur evokes strong opinions and is never far from heated debate, not least thanks to PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals). Their presence in the debate is hard to forget when it's all too easy to imagine they are waiting with a bucket of red paint to hurl at anyone who dares mention the F-word.

It might surprise readers to know that fur aversion is far from universal however. I recently came back from Hong Kong and was amazed to find fur everywhere, despite the mild winter conditions. Lane Crawford, the luxury Asian department store, had speciality fur sections of high end brands such as Blackglama (campaign image pictured) complete with elaborate displays designed to show them off. Mink, fox, raccoon, rabbit... you name it, it was on show. And it seems they are not the only ones. US and UK department store websites display pictures of models draped in fur garments... I can't imagine David Jones displaying it so brazenly without PETA arriving quick smart. By contrast, despite seeing fur everywhere in Hong Kong I did not see a single PETA protester anywhere. It seemed like such a stark contrast to Australia, where finding a retailer who stocks fur would be like finding a black truffle.

The interesting thing is that fur actually sells: my retailers have told me there is undeniably a level of demand for it from customers. And I am talking the real fur, not fake fur, which, let's be honest, feels like cheap shag carpet in comparison.

I do condemn cruelty to animals, especially to endangered species such as mink, however rabbit and fox are considered pests in this country. We have no qualms about using animals for meat and I do find it hypocritical that anyone who eats meat, fish and wears leather shoes should be up in arms about the "cruelty" of killing animals for fur, especially if they are bred for it.

On an amusing note, one lovely person I know mentioned to me that he was doing a show exhibiting fur and crowd numbers were a bit low. He was after a bit of publicity, so he called PETA himself in the hope that their turning up would generate some interest. Sure enough it worked. It seems if your brand needs some attention PETA is the one to call.

As always we would love to hear your thoughts. Contact us info@garlands.com.au or
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Full bloom: ribbons, bows, lace and lustre

Upcoming lingerie trends see a return to romance, opulence and colour, with an undeniably feminine aesthetic, as GTC's Eryn Behan reports.

www.gingertc.com.au

Blog: Is exclusivity the sincerest form of flattery in retailing?

Myer and DJs recent skirmish over the coveted prize of Sass & Bide raises some interesting questions about the lure of exclusivity...

It seems to be an unspoken rule in the fashion industry that exclusivity is in high demand for most retailers when purchasing fashion labels. However this is not always the case. When a successful label gets around, particularly if it's a good seller, all hell can break loose, especially when retailers start to expand their business.

One of the biggest frustrations of being an agent is when a retailer with an existing store decides to open another outlet in a heavily over-supplied area, which already has established accounts in place. They then of course want to put the brands they are selling into that area, which can cause all sorts of upset and frustration with the result that we, as agents can become the meat in the sandwich.

The irony about all this is that "it never rains but it pours"; we have certain suburbs where there are no accounts and then some suburbs all fighting for ‘exclusivity'. Understandably the established account in a given area becomes very indignant should a chain store open with their brands.

Of course we always do our utmost to keep our integrity and advise the invading retailer that there is a stockist in that area already, and that we are unable to supply them for that area. However, if truth be told, in some instances retailers promise they will only buy for their one store, before taking stock over to their other stores despite knowing full well there is an existing account in that area.

Apparently it's not only small retailers that are engaged in this battle. In this country most labels will either be in one department store or the other, rarely in both. And the fight to secure brand exclusivity is always hotly contested between the two.

Indeed, just this week we have seen two department stores in a well publicised skirmish to buy leading fashion label Sass & Bide (pictured), with Myer securing the win, reportedly outlaying $42.5 million and purchasing a 65 per cent stake in the company.

According to recent online media reports, David Jones reportedly saying they were offered to buy the brand, but knocked it back due to "lack of growth" in the Sass & Bides business...

This high profile stand-off has piqued our interest... What are your thoughts? Is competing with your rivals by copying strategies or labels really the best way to go?

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Street smart

Men's street and urban wear is working a new sartorial twist, as GTC's Eryn Behan reports.

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Men from Milan

Dashing horsemen and flashes of colour were the order of the day for the menswear shows at Milan Fashion week, as GTC's Eryn Behan reports.

Eryn Behan is director of Ginger Trend Consulting, the exclusive agent for UK trend forecaster Mudpie and its online platform MPDClick, and a provider of fashion forecast services and consumer insight trends to the fashion and interior design industries throughout Australasia.

Milan Fashion Week, the first of the much anticipated male fashion weeks, kicked off the weekend before last and spectators were not disappointed at the latest a/w 11/12 collections.

Stand out shows so far include Moncler Gamme Bleu's equestrian themed collection, which began with five horsemen in Moncler riding coats trotting out to greet the masses. A smart country aesthetic was seen with jodhpurs, saddlebags and leather riding boots, tailored blazers in tweed, houndstooth and oxford checks.

Knitwear comes in bright hues this season for Frankie Morello's chunky knits. Vivienne Westwood also included flashes of bold colour knits in her country gentlemen themed collection, whilst her models bore blood red stained lips for that signature Westwood eccentricity.

Outerwear dominated Burberry Prorsum's show in a spectrum of shades from electric blue to soft coffee and tangerine orange to dusty red. All shapes & styles were explored with classic trench & duffle coats, boxy shapes with voluminous shoulders & sleeves and bright patent raincoats.

Fashion Week in the Italian style capital has certainly lived up to expectations, with incredible collections from a vast number of some of the most well-established designers.

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Social media & fashion - a match made in heaven

Guest blogger Wai Chim unpacks the new fashion democracy of social media...

Wai Chim is a content writer and editor for Switched on Media, a leading digital marketing agency in Sydney, and writes on behalf of many leading fashion labels and brands.

What's hot, what's not? These judgments and claims used to be solely the realm of fashion experts and the big name critics. You could watch the Oscars or the Arias with your friends and family and pass comment on Charlize Theron's "Cinnabon" dress or the out of this world and stunning frock worn by J-Lo and Vera Farmiga, but no one else beyond the people in the room would ever hear your witty and insightful quips. It was up to the industry critics in Paris and Milan to notice the upcoming trends for the new season - and we as the consumers and buyers soaked up these tidbits and rushed out to the stores to ensure our wardrobe is in-season.

However, these days, the landscape has certainly changed thanks to the prevalence of social media. Everyone who can use the internet now has the chance to blog, tweet, comment, post - even create new looks and popular trend styles with a few clicks of the mouse. So has this changed the fashion landscape and how we perceive fashion trends?

Reinforcing observed trends

One thing that the internet does is make information exceptionally easy to access in large volumes - you don't have to buy every single fashion mag at the newsagent to catch up on the latest fashion trends. So it's easier to see trends becoming popular right before your eyes.
Meanwhile, social sharing with "Tweet this" and "Like this" buttons means you can get a good gauge on the social uptake of certain trends. It's one thing for an expert to claim that "nudes" are the new colour palette for the season, but when 10,000 readers "like" the idea - you can be fairly certain that you'll be seeing these styles on the streets taken up in droves.

Creating a new breed of influencers
It used to be you had to work in the industry for a certain amount of time, rub elbows with a few of the top name designers and be invited to and to attend top fashion events the world over to build up your street cred to become a key influencer in the industry. However, social media channels like blogs give many individuals the chance to share their passions and insights and be deemed a real influencer and important voice, without the titles and little black book of phone numbers that used to come with the notion.

Many traditional influencers are also turning to expressive social media channels, like blogs, to present the way they see their world and to not be constrained by the more conventional fashion mediums such as magazine spreads and columns - The Sartorialist is the perfect example.

Engaging with brands
Most major retailers now have at least some sort of social media presence in terms of Facebook and Twitter channels and will use these forums to push out announcements as well as engage with a more loyal following. These channels have created more opportunity for the individual to respond directly to emerging trends. Take Gap's logo change - loyal fans were outraged by the new design and took to Facebook, Twitter, blogs and forums to express their discontent. Ultimately, the fashion label reverted back to the traditional Blue Box and scrapped what must've been a substantial investment in corporate strategy and brand repositioning - demonstrating the powerful influence social media has in determining the future of fashion.
As social media channels become more and more integrated with our daily lives, we'll continue to see crowds and the general public having a great voice in the industry through these mediums.

What do you think? Where do you look for your fashion tips online?

Wai Chim is a content writer and editor for Switched on Media, a leading digital marketing agency in Sydney, and writes on behalf of many leading fashion labels and brands.

Blog: Buying stock versus indenting?

Is it better to forward order or go for in season purchasing? Phoebe Garland digs deep...

Phoebe Garland is co-founder & co-owner of Garland & Garland Fashion Pty Ltd, a Sydney based fashion agency which also offers full project management of sales & marketing materials including sourcing, managing and appointing suppliers for digital campaigns and PR services for the fashion industry.

Winter 2010 was a terrible time for retailers, mainly due to the abnormally hot weather. It took so long for the weather to break and it was still hitting high 20s well into May. With many retailers taking early deliveries of knitwear & winter indent, some arriving as early as February, it made for a very difficult winter season. Then the department stores decided to go on sale on current winter stock, which didn't help the small retailer at all. We found as fashion agents, for the first time, our retailers were trying to figure out which garments were going into stock service. It would appear that global warming was starting to have an affect on the way retailers buy. Climate change is essentially cutting the seasons short, and in combination with the ill effects of the GFC, it's no wonder retailers are nervous buying indent ranges. Retailing has become more challenging than ever and the question remains, to buy stock or to indent?

Buying stock only may be convenient, perhaps safe and tempting, however you run the risk of losing your big indent labels to competition. Why is indenting still important? Manufactures need the support of indent orders in order to be able to offer stock support ranges in season. With the majority of labels being made overseas, particularly in China, manufacturers need to meet high minimums from the factories, in order to produce the ranges in the first place. Without indent orders, there is no way they can judge which styles will generate sufficient demand to justify the minimum quantities to warrant production.

Indenting can be successful, and here are some suggestions as to how to make it work. Buy in depth, but don't over extend yourself financially or over buy. When you do indent, spread the payments of the indent over multiple months, as it will be gentler on the cash flow. It will allow you to sell through more and get into less debt. A good manufacturer will allow you to stagger deliveries and consequently payments. Another benefit - indenting can guarantee fully co-ordinated stories that can be carried together, unlike stock bought off the floor, which quite often it can be case of you take what you can get, meaning your shop can look very un-co-ordinated and look like you are running a discount outlet, which usually means excess markdowns.

Stock buying can be effective for either special requests from customers of best sellers and also for refilling of basic garments in ranges. Stock buying can be also good to look at layering transitional pieces for between seasons, an area that seems to be growing quite a bit due to our climate in Australia. When buying stock make sure you try to buy as much as you can from your indent manufacturers. It will strengthen your relationship with them, and in the long run will allow them to produce better ranges for you for both stock and indent.

In summary, there's sound reasoning for both forward ordering and in season purchases. It's just a matter of striking the right balance.

As always we would love to hear your thoughts contact us info@garlands.com.au or
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The internet dilemma

It's time for businesses without an internet presence to get on board and get online, says Tim Pope, of web-based business to business solutions specialist Portalogue.

Tim Pope is managing director of Portalogue Solutions Pty. Ltd. Fashion Exposed has teamed with Portalogue to extend the beneficial union of suppliers and retailers at the Fashion Exposed Trade Fairs to the internet, 365 days a year.

Most retailers and suppliers in the fashion industry are still grappling with how to make the internet work for their business.

The younger generation ‘gets it', but the baby-boomers in the fashion industry are being left behind due to a common perception that it's all too hard and too expensive.

Then of course there are all those non-believers who have been re-assuring themselves with the notion that "the internet is NOT relevant to my business because people need to touch and feel before they buy"

Ironically, since the Aussie dollar has risen to near parity with the US dollar, the same non-believers have been up in arms about the number of sales they are losing to overseas merchants - and for good reason - consumers are flocking to web sites to get their fashion fix at ever increasing rates.

eBay has recently launched a brazen billboard campaign suggesting consumers should browse in Westfield and buy online. This may be a pre-emptive strike as Westfield, Myer and David Jones prepare to launch their own e-Commerce sites. Obviously the big boys in town believe the time is right to enter the online shopping space.

So where does this leave Australia's small-medium retailers and their suppliers?
The choice is simple. Either get onboard (or should I say online) or be left behind.
Increasingly, suppliers are looking to go direct to the end consumer, reasoning that "if others are going to sell my products online why shouldn't I?".... and if suppliers sell at RRP this argument has some merit.

The retailers however may question such a strategy, arguing that the end-consumer belongs to them as a reward for buying and selling the supplier's products within their stores.

This begs the obvious question ... how can the fashion industry add value to their businesses by using the internet to generate more online AND in-store sales without incurring massive costs or wasting precious time?

The simple answer is for suppliers and retailers to learn how to work together in the new world.
It is time for a new way of thinking. The fact is, the world-wide-web offers businesses so much more than Google and e-commerce shopping carts. It's time for the fashion industry to utilise the internet in a holistic way to increase sales and improve business efficiencies.

I'm a baby-boomer and I was involved in the fashion industry for 20 years before I got seriously involved in internet technology. Having been at the coal-face of fashion manufacturing, wholesaling and retailing, I am convinced there is a better way.

Retailers and suppliers have a unique opportunity to save money and reduce time wasted every day by replacing expensive, out-dated technologies such as phone, fax, mail campaigns, catalogues and a multitude of unrelated files, brochures, flyers and spreadsheets with dynamic and inexpensive web based alternatives. The end goal must be to use the internet as a business tool that will optimise information in an endless number of ways without having to ‘reinvent the wheel' each time.

Just as retailers benefit by coming to Fashion Exposed to meet their key suppliers under one roof, so too can they benefit from a single web destination where they can find the information needed to buy their preferred brands. Such an information hub is now available on the internet where fashion suppliers can link price lists and catalogues to the retailers of their choice. It's not about replacing sales reps or ‘touch and feel', it's all about replacing old technology with new. It's all about saving time and money with a system that can do so much more than a phone call or fax ever will AND it's all about saving considerable time and money in the process.

The ‘holy grail' is a holistic web based system that helps retailers make more informed decisions when ordering indents, in-season refills or specials....a system that has integrated business tools to help balance merchandise assortments, manage inventory, automatically file orders and create reports that staff can see with ease. And this internet solution can also be a place where retailers can link supplier's products, images and information to their own websites with the simple click of a button, rather than spending more and more time managing their websites and less and less time on their retail floor. Now link this same information to inexpensive electronic catalogues that can be targeted to known customers and linked back to websites instead of expensive mail-drops that have low conversion ‘hit' rates....and the list of opportunities goes on and on.

www.portalogue.com

Blog: The price of doing high-end business in Australia... Can we compete?

There may well be more than GST behind the ongoing overseas e-tail stoush, says Phoebe Garland.

The debate over online shopping from overseas is now the hot issue in the media, with many large chains increasingly voicing their concerns about unfair competition, and lobbying for GST to be imposed on online purchases. However, there remains a question that is yet to be addressed: are we competitive enough with prices here? And specifically why are consumers paying so much for high-end designer goods in this country?

Last year, I bought the white Halston Heritage dress that appeared in Sex and the City 2 (pictured), online from the US. I did try and buy it from an Australian retailer, but sadly it was sold out and I was told there would be no further deliveries. Being a typical female, I simply HAD to have this dress, so I jumped online and purchased it from a US department store. By purchasing online, I saved $150, despite paying two lots of shipping, (I have a US postal redirection service that re-routes my packages due to some US department stores not delivering to Australia).

Spurred by my love of designer high-end brands I am savvy enough to know the price differences can vary greatly from Australian retailers to overseas ones. While I am totally pro-retailer, it does concern me that the core issue regarding the cost of these goods is not being addressed. However, there is also evidence that this also works both ways, with Australian high-end brands being sold for a premium overseas. While I was in the UK in 2004, I saw a pair of Sass & Bide jeans retailing at 275 UK pounds. With the Australian dollar at the time being fairly poor versus the UK pound, this worked out to be about $650 Australian dollars. In Australia they were retailing for about $275 AUD.

Retailers are always looking for unique brands, that key point of difference and something unique, and purchasing overseas brands is often the ideal solution. Sadly our high-end luxury market is fairly small in this country. The amount of high-end retailers stocking big international brands is very niche in comparison to our Asian neighbours or European. I would love to see more Australian retailers expand into this area, however I wonder realistically if it will ever expand? With most Australian consumers incredibly price sensitive and the majority of the population buying fast fashion, will it always remain a fairly small part of the market here? How can the high-end retailer compete against overseas prices, especially with the Australian dollar being so strong?

Ultimately many more questions remain. Do Australian retailers pay the same wholesale price as overseas retailers? Is the margin unrealistic to compete against online now? Are suppliers adding on too much margin? Will adding GST to goods under $1000 really work to deter consumers shopping online? Is the cost of having a distributor for these brands adding to the end price? Or is the distance factor a consideration?

Conversely, why should Sass & Bide jeans be retailing in the UK at over twice its Australian price? And combined with the strong Australian dollar, is this not doing major damage to Australian brands exporting?

We would love to hear your thoughts on this matter and any insights or solutions and answers so our Australian retailers can be more competitive against overseas retailers. Join our page on Facebook and have your say: www.facebook.com/garlandandgarlandfashion

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Leather lads

Leather has always had the power to add edge and style to any staple garment and autumn/winter 2011 will be no exception, as GTC's Eryn Behan reports.

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Branding synergy

This issue, Ginger Trend Consulting presents Paris based trend forecaster Beautystreams, with an extract from its ‘Experts' segment. Produced weekly, Experts provides a unique look into the minds of international specialists from different fields, who share their insights on trends in their industries, sparking fresh ideas for beauty product development, packaging and fashion design. Here, Beautystreams touches base with Alex Sum, principal & executive creative director of SumCreative, a full service global creative agency providing advertising, brand creation and brand positioning services.

Beautystreams is a new online and bespoke trend forecasting service specialising in the beauty and packaging industries.

Beautystreams:
What is your current state of mind?
Alex Sum:
If we want to choose a time to make things better, now is the time. Anything can be better. The influence we have, the vision. Basically, even though the economy is in bad shape and it's been a tough couple of years for a lot of people, this is the time to make things better.

Beautystreams:
What is your most important project at this time?
Alex Sum:
All of my professional projects are important, but currently I am working on the launch and rebranding of Neuro Beverages, founded by philanthropist Diana Jenkins. Also, the Spring/Summer 2011 campaign for Miss Me and MM Couture.

Beautystreams:
What is inspiring to you right now?
Alex Sum: What's really inspiring me is the new digital era that advertising and branding has been entering. It's new, it's immediate, it's cutting edge.

Beautystreams:
Who is your favourite designer?
Alex Sum:
Alexander McQueen. Enough said :)

Beautystreams:
Where do you get inspiration?
Alex Sum:
Everywhere. All you have to do is open your eyes.

Beautystreams:
What materials are popular for usage in your field... any new trends in materials and textures?
Alex Sum:
I'm really into helping the world in whatever way I can, so it's been really amazing to see more use of recycled paper, eco printing, environmentally conscious designers and trends. It may seem small, but it goes a long way.

Beautystreams:
What is beautiful to you?
Alex Sum:
Synergy. Anything that flows together. Harmony and balance in photography, in everyday life. This is beautiful.

Beautystreams:
What do you think your field will be like in 10 years, 50 years?
Alex Sum:
I think the industry will be very diverse; more glitterati, more opportunities. This field is always changing.

Beautystreams:
What do you feel is an important emerging market group to target for beauty or fashion?
Alex Sum:
16-35 is the best range. This generation has changed so much. They have influence in areas that they have never had before. Areas such as media, social media, and technology are bringing everything closer together and becoming a new way of life.

Beautystreams:
What is the main factor that you feel attracts a customer to buy a product?
Alex Sum:
Emotional response. You have to feel something when you look at the product; you have to have reason to reach for it, to put it on...

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Blog: The trouble with discounting

It's no secret the big department stores and chains have been discounting for years and with the Australian dollar at its strongest the question comes again: to discount or not to discount in order to match prices, especially in the lead up to Christmas? Robert and Phoebe Garland discuss...

This season will be tough and with fierce overseas online retailing also taking away from our onshore retailers, it's temping for retailers to panic and start marking down to get those extra sales way before the Boxing Day sales and the usual quiet January period.

Led by department stores and chains, discounting has had terrible effect on the fashion industry; it infiltrates at all levels from department stores to independent retailers and affects manufacturers and suppliers across the board. The continuation of discounting is most insidious as it flags the end of each season far too early. In addition it cheapens brands considerably by basically illustrating the product can't sell at full price. Christmas sales this year are already starting in December. It would take massive discipline by every retailer in to achieve full margin sales right through until February 1.

Whilst the majors might demand rebates from their manufacturers and might demand sharing the cost of markdowns, the independent retailer does not have this luxury. As fashion agents we hear all the time unless a brand sells really well, quite often retailers will refuse to buy brands in department stores, therefore nobody wins.

There needs to be a restraint by the department stores and major chains not to kow-tow to the accountants demands for cash flow and instead listen to the merchants within the business and delay the mark down dates until February 1. Then at February 1, have a short, sharp, sweet and genuine sale and move into the new season.

Other solutions include more emphasis by retailers on seeking trans-seasonal goods delivered in six weekly windows and hence possibly taking mark downs on a continual basis rather than waiting for the big bang sale at the end of the season. Also there are some manufactures that give excellent stock service support on their best sellers throughout the season, which is a great way to almost guarantee mark down free sales.

Right now it's the public who have the trade bluffed, instead of the trade controlling the market. They wait for the "big bang sale" and even demand it now. Discounting has taught the customer to shop on sale, therefore making retailing even harder. Customers are playing the independent retailers off against the department stores, and while the department stores and chains can afford to mark down, the independent retailers cannot afford this loss.

We are interested in your thoughts. If anyone else has any suggestions to deal with this problem, please contact us at info@garlands.com.au

www.garlands.com.au

Blog: Why retailers must embrace online & social networking

More than ever before, the debate around growing competition from overseas e-tailers has highlighted the need to get up to speed online, says Phoebe Garland.

Why are online presence and social networking so important?
In the Sydney Morning Herald (November 20, 2010) it was reported that The Australian National Retailers Association representing the big chains found 60 per cent of 18-24 year olds bought goods online and overseas.

This is now a serious problem for Australian retailers and there is currently significant coverage in the media on the debate over introducing GST on goods bought overseas online under $1000 as well as adding import duties to such goods.

Online retail is growing rapidly and if you think consumers won't buy fashion online due to size and fit issue, or you believe that the mature age group won't buy online - think again!

Consumers are using retail shops to try on garments, then purchasing them from overseas online shops for better prices. With most overseas online shops offering free returns, having high-quality images, clear sizing and measurements charts and with the Australian dollar being so strong, it's a very alluring prospect for the customer, especially for designer goods which tend to be much cheaper and more varied. Online retailing is going to have serious consequences for local, traditional retail stores.

Little wonder that Westfield has launched westfield.com.au, where you can shop over 50 shops in Westfield centres. And they aren't alone; David Jones, Marcs & Country Road (pictured) are also looking online retailing. If the big chains are starting to suffer, I can only imagine how smaller retailers are faring.

What should retailers do?
It's imperative for any consumer business to have a great website, but aside from that, social networking is also key. A Facebook page can assist in driving sales and help brand your business. Used in conjunction with an existing website, this is a highly effective way of driving traffic to your site. Creating a Facebook page costs nothing and allows you to post links from your website, upload pictures of your latest collections, or run competitions and giveaways. It also allows you to invite people to "Like" your page, while you can invite them to in store events and special offers.

Urge your manufactures to supply you with modern product shots of the ranges you buy and start posting them on your website. Providing incentives for your existing fans to ‘invite your friends' to their page, is a great way to build your client base. Offering free shipping is also worthwhile. I would also suggest discussing joint online marketing opportunities with your labels. After all it's their label you are buying and you are helping to market it.

Twitter & LinkedIn are other well known social network mediums but I find they aren't as interactive for selling products to consumers and work better for networking and branding.

In conclusion?
Make no mistake; online is growing rapidly. Marketing your business correctly is imperative and can make you stand out against your competition. The SMH reported that analysts Frost and Sullivan expect Australian online spending to grow by half over the next four years. Surely small retailers would like to be part of this business?

As well as boosting their online recall, any retailer wanting to secure a solid future for their business should familiarise themselves the debate over adding duties to imported online goods. If you think it's creating unfair competition, get in touch with your local MP and lobby industry bodies for change.

www.garlands.com.au

Hot VM tips

Gleaned from its twice yearly global visual merchandising analyses, Ginger Trend Consulting for Mudpie shares the spring summer 11 trends influencing windows and displays.

Merchandisers should incorporate minimalist mannequins, pared-down props and industrialised fixtures & fittings with backdrops that are either ultra clean or inspired by a rugged sense of adventure, where distressed materials and haphazard styling are key.

Bring the rich and vibrant culture of India into store windows with multi-coloured props, eclectic styling, decorative textiles, painted landscapes and contemporary chrome mannequins.

Get creative with oversized props ranging from gigantic cupcakes to 10 foot ostriches and team with minimalist backdrops and mannequins.

Renovation and restoration inspire major window displays, where props such as oversized hammers, nails and spanners feature alongside one-off construction based- installations, stacked up furniture pieces and scaffolding style shelves.

www.gingertc.com.au

Pretty in prints

Thanks to advances in digital technology, women's textile trends for spring/summer 2011 promise a feast for the eyes and imagination. Ginger Trend Consulting for Mudpie reports.

www.gingertc.com.au

Be prepared: Boy Scout style

A boy scout aesthetic inspires the latest trend for autumn/winter 10/11 as a modern take on the youth movement hits the streets. Mudpie/Ginger Trend Consulting's Eryn Behan reports.

Traditional boy scout campaign hats and knitted round neck jumpers are essential for autumn winter 10/11, while a khaki wax jacket is the key outerwear item for the season.

The season's runways see a more sophisticated take on the trend with ultra long-line knitted cardigans and full length tailored trousers in neutral hues. Pocket laden shirts appeared along with lace up working boots, keeping that utility aesthetic.

In-store, opt for a tailored utility shirt in khaki green with navy tailored cropped trousers and a brown leather satchel. Choose lace up hiking boots over knitted knee socks for that boy scout look, while the must have accessory is an all over print neck-scarf and that signature woggle knot.

www.gingertc.com.au

A/W 10 trend spot: Retro Renaissance

It's hard to say whether fashion's love affair with the past comes down to the success of TV hit Madmen or simply a hankering for old world simplicity. Wherever it comes from, it has taken the industry by storm. Mudpie takes a look at how the trend is being interpreted as the northern hemisphere enters cooler climes.

www.gingertc.com.au

iSpyStyle says thank you

Leading online style and trend resource and Fashion Exposed partner iSpyStyle is offering recent Fashion Exposed attendees a one-off chance to makeover their boutique. Exposed Online gets the lowdown from iSpyStyle founder Kate Vandermeer.

Kate Vandermeer is 'senior spy' at design community iSpyStyle. Armed with 10 years' fashion experience in areas from trend forecasting to design & development, marketing, branding, visual merchandising and online business, she has worked with names including Mogil, Mimco, French Connection and Decjuba.

Q. So tell us about this great makeover offer!
A. As many Exposed Online readers may know, iSpyStyle runs retail workshops, often in partnership with Fashion Exposed, where we discuss the ins and outs of marketing, branding and visual merchandising. As a thank you to Fashion Exposed for having us and to all those who came to the workshop in Melbourne recently, we have an exclusive special offer...

iSpyStyle is offering a Retail Spy Makeover valued at $1100 for the most promising Melbourne boutique!

Q. Who qualifies for the offer?
A. To be eligible you have to:-

• Have attended the Fashion Exposed Trade Secrets Retail Workshop presented by iSpyStyle in Melbourne.
• Have a boutique in Melbourne. (You could operate one or more boutiques, as long as one of them is in Melbourne).
• Be open to having a makeover and taking our suggestions on board.

Q. What's the application process?
A. Prospective candidates should:-

1. Email contact@ispystyle.net with the subject heading "Retail Spy Makeover"

2. Tell us:-
• The category of your business - accessories, clothing, kids, lingerie etc.
• How many stores you have. If you only have one, that's fine. We just need to know.
• How long you've been in business.
• What brands you sell.

3. Also include:-
• Photos of your store displays (windows and in-store). The format for these needs to be low res jpeg.
• A link to your website or blog, if you have one.
• Your contact details. We need to be able to let you know if you've won!

Q. When's the deadline?
A. We will draw the competition on 15 October 2010 and contact the winner directly, as well as announce this online and through social media.

For more information on the iSpyStyle Retail Makeover Offer, head to iSpyStyle.net

Good luck!

www.iSpyStyle.net

Fantasia gets fashionable

Walt Disney Signature has teamed up with three designers to launch a high-end, accessories line inspired by animated classic Fantasia, as Eryn Behan from Mudpie reports.

The collection will coincide with the upcoming November release of Fantasia and Fantasia 2000 in a special collector's edition on Blu-ray and DVD.

The three designer collections are:

Hayden-Harnett for sand-washed silk scarves depicting scenes from the 'Rite of Spring,' 'Ave Maria' and 'Night on Bald Mountain' sequences. The line will also include studded leather cuffs, handbags and wallets. It will be available in December at Hayden-Harnett's Brooklyn and Nolita stores, on Haydenharnett.com and at select retailers.

Noir for a capsule jewellery collection, featuring elements inspired by the 'Rite of Spring' scenes. The pieces will be available in November at high-end retailers nationwide and at Noirjewelry.com.

Robin Rotenier for a line of sterling silver cufflink and jewellery designs depicting the scene when the brooms and buckets come to life, as well as the 'Desert Dunes' and 'Bright Shining Sun' segments. A men's collection is available this month at Bergdorf Goodman, and a men's and women's national launch will follow in October.

"The film's powerful iconic images from the whimsical to the mysterious make it a great bounty for designers and inspired them to create these timeless yet modern pieces that offer something for the Fantasia collector, as well as the fashionista looking for on-trend designs," says Pam Lifford, executive vice president of global fashion and home at Disney Consumer Products.

"These accessories embody the spirit of Fantasia and bring it to life in new ways. Disney's collaboration with these top designers continues to expand our brand further into the fashion sphere."

www.gingertc.com.au

Microtrend Report: Kiss the Sky... Channelling Hendrix

Jimi Hendrix may have died four decades ago this month... but his unique fashion sense lives on, as Eryn Behan reports.

September 2010 marks 40 years since the tragic death of guitar legend Jimi Hendrix; and in true rock ‘n' roll form an array of conspiracy theories still surround his death, with many unable to believe their icon could meet his end with a clichéd overdose scenario. Whatever the truth of Hendrix' demise, one thing is certain: the four years he spent in London from 1966 to 1970 saw him launched to the top of his musical game, creating the voice and sound of a generation.

Hendrix is remembered not only for his intoxicating guitar solos but his theatrical wardrobe, which included his prized antique hussar jacket and plenty of hand painted silks, along with an eclectic mass of jewellery. As people across the globe unite to celebrate his memory, a torrent of free-love looks inspired by the legend is hitting the streets, and the late sixties and early seventies have once again found a place on the contemporary style scene.

It's no surprise then that a winning Woodstock vibe hit the runways for spring/summer 2010, with a host of designers opting for hippy chic 60s and 70s fuelled ensembles; lightweight tunic dresses, suede waistcoats and tassle belts proved key. For autumn/winter 10/11, Hendrix inspired looks take a more rustic approach; Navajo crochets and weaves provide a South American equestrian element, in line with Mpdclick's forecasted trend

The latest crop of fashion glossies, along with the most stylish city streets, are already awash with Hendrix incarnations. While the look has obvious unisex appeal, so far the trend is emerging as one for the girls, as clever dressers opt for bohemian looks with a high fashion edge.

To get this look in-store, merchandise classic rock ‘n' roll items with old-school boho pieces; a nifty tailored military jacket has real Hendrix appeal when styled over a hand-painted paisley shirt or embellished jeans.

Check out Ginger Trend Consulting's new website at www.gingertc.com.au

Trend Overview - Sao Paulo Fashion Week

With Brazilian fashion's global reputation on the rise, there's no better place than Sao Paulo fashion week to spot the hottest (and we mean hottest) new trends, as Eryn Behan of Mudpie reveals.

Sao Paulo Fashion Week is renowned for its festival spirit and commercial appeal. The event is the first of the women's shows providing an early look at SS 2011 trends. In amongst the vibrant tropical hues favoured on Sao Paulo's festive runways, soft and positively girly mellow yellow emerged as a hot pick for the SS 2011 season.

Sports luxe trends remained strong on Sao Paulo's runways, with many designers adding a new slant, executing activewear shapes in a host of sheer high fashion fabrics. Stand out designers introducing this trend included Animale and Osklen.

Meanwhile, not forgetting to exude the vibrant Brazilian spirit that characterises Sao Paulo Fashion Week, a host of designers tuned into the event's tropical location and pushed bold exotic prints in glorious multi-colours.

Some of my favourites included Rosa Cha, Colcci and Cia Maritimi, whose tropical flora and fauna prints were stand out for their use of random mix ‘n' match placements.

Bra Queen - A fitting level of service

With her high impact, information packed Fashion Exposed workshops rolling out in a matter of days, Bra Queen Renee Mayne shares some last minute pearls of wisdom on customer service.

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

What is the one thing that separates small businesses from department stores? Service of course; they can not and should not compete on price so it is vital to their success that they deliver on service.

So, what can you do today to improve your customer's service?

To answer this question, I like to take my clients on a journey that will no doubt be close to many businesses' hearts. It's journey that entails a lot of listening and an abundance of respect, and most importantly, avoiding the top three mistakes businesses make in customer service

Mistake number one: No consultation...
What would happen if you went to get your hair cut and your stylist didn't ask you what you wanted?

Never assume. For example, if you are fitting an older lady, don't assume that she wants a flesh coloured lace bra. All women like to feel good, so it is important we ask them what they want and remember that everyone perceives things differently.

Mistake number two: Getting into the blame game...
If you have fit your customer with a bra that you think is appropriate and she suggests that she would like to try something else, it is not her fault. It is your fault for assuming. You are the professional and if your customers do not understand something it is up to you to educate them. I hear all the time "customers are stupid". They are not stupid. If there is any blame in the equation, it lies with us not doing our job, as we are there to educate as much as to sell.

For example, I recently spoke to a plumber who didn't finish off a job properly. When a complaint arose, he indicated that he should have been told. My response to this is: "No, you should have asked, this is your profession." Regardless of what your enterprise deals in, all businesses have a level of service that they must adhere to if they want to retain customers long term.

Mistake number three: Snap judgements
When someone enters our store we judge them upon appearance as to how much they can afford. I see and hear it all the time "She would never spend $100 on a bra." Correction: you do not see value in your product. If you love what you sell the price tag on it becomes virtually irrelevant, because you believe with your whole heart in that product. Once you appreciate what your customers can gain and benefit from wearing your product, your figures will go up. Our customers determine how much they can spend. It is up to us to show them the best products we have for them, and then let them decide.

Thanks for reading my columns in Exposed Online, it's been great to share my experiences with you. For more insights and a chance to ask direct questions, you can catch me at the Fashion Exposed Bra Queen workshops. If you have any questions you would like me to answer during the workshop, please email me at: renee@braqueen.com.au

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

Comprising two 30-minute sessions targeting the lingerie sector and covering key topics including cost effective, innovative marketing and boosting your business through proactive service and sales, the Bra Queen workshops will take place at 11.45 a.m. on Sunday 29 and Monday 30 August, at Fashion Exposed, Melbourne Exhibition Centre.

Image: pumpease.com

Trend report: Spotlight on Ivan Grundahl

Ivan Grundahl is synonymous with Danish design. Ahead of what looks set to be an unmissable presentation at Fashion Exposed this weekend, Eryn Behan of Mudpie upwraps the Grundahl mystique.

The exclusive Australian representative for global trend forecaster Mudpie, Ginger Trend Consulting will present Mudpie's Autumn/Winter 11/12 trend forecast on Sunday 29 August at 9.30 am during Fashion Exposed.

Ivan Grundahl is one of Copenhagen's pioneering designers, helping to introduce the world to unique Danish design. For spring/summer 2011, Grundahl channelled the Japanese greats, creations reminiscent of past Commes des Garçons and Issey Miyake. Cloud-like turbans and block-white faces were combined with unusual asymmetric shapes, disjointed seams and frayed edges.

A tonal palette of black, grey and white with beige, sand and khaki in places, lent itself to shapeless mid-length dresses, loosely knitted separates and utility details. Proportion play is key in Scandinavian fashion; a look so effortlessly adopted on many of the runways and city streets this season, while a move towards 1990s grunge sees oversized plaids and workwear boots added to the aesthetic.

Highlights of the collection include a very wearable military inspired suit with tapered trousers and a jacket featuring oversized pockets and a double-wrap-around belt. A key outfit, sure to be adopted by Denmark's fashion front line, is the combination of a haphazard, open-knitted sweater worn with a layered full skirt - just the right amount of anti-fashion meets fashion so synonymous with the grunge era.

Bra Queen - Could a business coach destroy your business?

In the lead up to her Fashion Exposed workshops, Bra Queen Renee Mayne explains why the right attitude is crucial to getting the most from your business coach and evolving as a business.

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

Could a business coach destroy your business?

...Why on earth would a business coach say such a thing?

Clearly I'm not trying to talk myself out of a job. What I'm getting at however, is the need to understand your own motivations for being in business and the difference between industry leaders and the rest of the crowd.

Let me explain. When I introduce myself to someone as a business coach, most people will say "I don't need a business coach. I've been in business for 30 years. I know everything there is to know."

While I haven't suggested that they need a business coach, it's assumed I'm implying this, and the result can sometimes be a defensive response.

Note: These business owners belong to the 70 per cent who are "doing quite nicely thank you."

Then I will meet other business owners and they say: "It's so nice to meet someone who's as passionate as I am, I need to work with you." Note: These belong to the one per cent who really are industry leaders, at the forefront of driving change.

In other words, 70 per cent of businesses will most likely be a "doing quite nicely thank you" business and only one per cent want to be at the forefront....the industry leaders. So you need to ask yourself which one you are.

Crucial Fact: The difference between the 70 per cent and the one per cent is the ability to take calculated risks and when the strategy doesn't work, change it. This is where the 70 per cent can fall down.

To move from the 70 per cent to the one per cent, consider this: If you've had to change your strategy, it's not that you've made a bad decision; it just means you needed to test the waters. You have not failed, so don't beat yourself up or get defensive about it. Just change tactics.

Effecting change is arguably the most challenging aspect of business, but it's certainly not impossible.

Change Management

If you think about how The Biggest Loser's commando interacts with contestants, initially there are tears of frustration, anger, and resistance to training on their part. Why? When you take someone out of their comfort zone their defence mechanisms go up. It's human nature. Most people are creatures of habit and dislike change. However embracing and maintaining change is crucial to evolving your business. Make it your business to go to industry events and discuss on things on an open playing field. There must be trust, drive, consistency, determination a thirst to succeed... and ultimately a driving passion for your business.

Talking of industry events, I'm really looking forward to seeing you at Fashion Exposed. If you have any questions you would like me to answer during the workshop, please email me at: renee@braqueen.com.au

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

A walk on the wild side!

Leopard prints have been prowling the world's key autumn/winter 2010 shows, as Eryn Behan from Mudpie reports from her latest trend safari. Stay on the hunt for Eryn and colleague Jo Little's stand-out trend forecast at Fashion Exposed later this month.

Fall 10's runways ask fashion fanatics to take 'a walk on the wild side', pushing big cat prints as 'love hem or hate them' leopard spots become the markings of the season.

We first spotted fashion's emerging love affair with leopard print on spring/summer 10's runways, as a scattering of designers opted for accessories decorated in the daring print. For autumn/winter 10/11 the trend is undeniable, with head-to-toe leopard ensembles and outsized prints gracing all of the ‘big four' fashion weeks.

Street stylers are already on the prowl in an array of leopard ensembles. Body-con dresses provide the ultimate canvas for scaled-up spots, and high fashion enthusiasts are prowling the streets in a slinky selection of leopard print separates and must have accessories. The boyfriend fit shirt has become a wardrobe essential and in big-cat spots, makes the perfect summer to autumn transition piece, best teamed with retro fit high-waist shorts and a slouch knit cardigan.

Head-to-toe leopard screams high fashion, while a pair of wedges or an oversized shopper offers an easy way to translate this trend.

PROMOTION: Special Offer - FASHIONTREND marks five years!

Celebrating five years of ‘Unstoppable Fashion' in 2010, FASHIONTREND Australia has just launched its August issue, showcasing the international Spring Summer Collections, RAFW and Asia Fashion Exchange.

The new Issue titled ‘NOCTURNE' evokes the mystery of the night with a daring display of sharp modernity and bygone allure.

Offering a unique blend of exclusive runway images, hypnotic editorials, designer profiles, sublime beauty, trend information and dedicated coverage of the Australian fashion scene, FASHIONTREND Australia is ‘The Essential Fashion Quarterly'.

Exposed Online has three issues to give away!
Simply email Exposed Online editor Belinda Smart at belindas@aec.net.au and explain in no more than 40 words what your favourite ‘Nocturnal' trend of the moment is and why.

NEW ISSUE OUT NOW!

Available at BORDERS, MAG NATION and leading newsagents nationally. Connect With The Tastemakers at the official FACEBOOKFANPAGE.

Retail design and the new austerity

Retail design is heading in an interesting direction, inspired by the new brand of consumer austerity, as Eryn Behan from Mudpie reports, ahead of her forthcoming presentation at Fashion Exposed.

Like architecture, the interior design sector has had a major shakeup, laying the grounds for a fertile new landscape of innovation and creativity. In retail especially, brands have had to go that much further to appeal to the uninterested and now more austere consumer. From derelict warehouse spaces to temporary pop-up stores, interior design has been used as a way of engaging consumers and offering them unique retail experience.

The use of contours and layering using materials such as plywood and cardboard is a clear trend in the retail sector. Textural archways create an artificial yet organic environment, heightening customers' perception of both space and product. This is a cost-effective method of temporarily changing the identity of a space to capture the imagination of consumers and offer them a new retail experience.

The ‘Labyrinth of Woods' installation at the Diesel Denim Gallery Aoyama in Tokyo, Japan, by Architect Ben Naqoka of Point, features plywood archways, creating a variety of individual spaces and unique textural surfaces. His work is based on a concept consisting of elements that exist together in a seemingly natural relationship that makes for organized efficiency

Japanese architects Suppose Design Office, have completed a boutique made of cardboard tubes in a Hiroshima shopping centre. ‘Karis' features tubes of different lengths suspended in clusters to create ‘caves' within the space, similar to the concept of the labyrinth woods by Ben Naqoka.

‘Nature Factory' by Makato Tanijiri of Suppose Design Office, features plumbing arranged to look like an arbour of trees. The purpose behind this design is to offer a new shopping experience that people can interact with products whilst strolling in mysterious natural surroundings.

Boutique Runway by Italian design studio CLS Architetti is made up of wavy profiles that cover the walls and ceiling to resemble an ice cove. The interior space was built through the construction of a three-dimensional model and each lamella is hand crafted.

Belgian artist Arne Quinze has created a rough luxe fantasy space for retail store L'eclaireur in Paris. The space uses recycled materials, with a one-off archway made out of entangled wooden planks, as if to emphasize a notion of ordered chaos.

The exclusive Australian representative for global trend forecaster Mudpie, Ginger Trend Consulting will present Mudpie's Autumn/Winter 11/12 trend forecast during Fashion Exposed.

Bra Queen - How to reduce costs & invest in things that matter

Profitability is about more than sales; it's about knowing where to scrimp and where to spend, says Bra Queen Renee Mayne. As her series of Fashion Exposed workshops approaches, she shares some of her top tips for maximising cost-effectiveness.

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

1. Find cost-effective ways to market your business
Often business owners think if they are going to market themselves effectively then a hefty marketing budget is needed. This is simply not the case. Furthermore, it doesn't necessarily make good business sense. If you're looking at advertising on the back page of a glossy magazine that's an outlay of around $15,000 plus and there is no way you can track the success of the investment. Any worthwhile marketing campaign must be traceable.

This is where e-marketing comes in; it's a very powerful and cost effective way to market your business. It enables you to send out newsletters, special offers and loyalty schemes directly to your customers at no extra cost. You save on postage and/or printing costs too. It also encourages customers back to your website to see what other services you offer. The only investment required is the design of your promotional e-mail material. It couldn't be simpler. However, around 80 per cent of Australian retail businesses do not even have an email or website address...they are losing an astronomical amount of money, publicity and exposure.

2. Ensure that your business software is not costing you a fortune
Software has come down in price, so if you're on a payment plan or you have signed a contract with a hosting or software company, be sure to shop around. There are now a lot of systems on the market that you can maintain and update yourself.

3. Reduce your staff overheads with a virtual PA or receptionist
We are extremely fortunate in this day and age because we have virtual PAs who will work for businesses on an hourly basis and require no minimum hours or holidays. As staff overheads are one of the first things that get cut when business is slow, to ensure that you get adequate phone cover for your business without having to overstretch your existing resources, you can opt for a pay-as-you-go virtual receptionist.

4. Maximise customer retention through stand-out customer care
Ask not what your customer can do for you but rather what you can do for your customer! Customers are driven by both emotional and practical needs, so make sure you are satisfying both. Most importantly, listen to what they have to say about your products and services as well as your staff, ask them to complete questionnaires - their opinion is vital to your long-term success. They may even give you new ideas that you may not have considered, so be open to change. The biggest downfall for businesses is often simply the result of stubbornness.

Understand your customers needs better...
Keep up to date with your customers, a good customer database is an invaluable investment. It can identify customers' needs and their likes and dislikes, while also providing vital clues in helping you to cross sell other products and services to increase customer spend.

5. Reassess your products and services
Look at all the products and services that you offer in relation to how much you sell and how profitable they are. At times it is necessary to eliminate collections that are simply costing too much to carry. Work smart. Source the very best product on the market. Even if it means you're the only one who stocks it, take the plunge and stand out from the crowd!

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

Bra Queen - Top 10 ‘don'ts' for fashion businesses

So you're all set to make it big in fashion? Before you take the plunge, learn from an expert's experience. Here, ahead of her upcoming presentations at Fashion Exposed, Bra Queen warns against 10 of the biggest blunders made by fashion wholesalers and designers.

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

1. Overlooking production
As your name is going to be on the final product, it is crucial you keep a close eye on all aspects of production. Fit and finish must be perfect. In fact I now do a critique on sample bras all the time to ensure a successful launch and collection. Your products must match your samples! The biggest mistake I see is that the samples are not perfect. They go on show at fashion fairs and shows where can shape and fit are there for all to see. Retailers are looking with a hawk eye at this kind of detail and if the fit isn't there they will not buy. Think about this; would you invest in something that you weren't 100 per cent sure of?

2. Shoddy shipping
Credibility is everything and the fashion business can be very unforgiving. You can't ship one season late; that will be your downfall.

3. Wanting (too much) to be in certain stores
Designers sometimes under-price their goods in order to have prestigious boutiques or department stores buy their lines, with the strategy that they can raise prices later. This doesn't work. Those stores bought you to fit into a certain price point. Slip out of it and they won't be buying your next line. It may work for one season but not for the life of your company. What's more, increased volumes will not necessarily cover the shortfall of underpricing. It might work for offshore mega producers but if you take that route, you're not a fashion forward line anymore are you?

4. Spending now, worrying later
Designers often get caught up in the whirl of marketing and PR, putting on fashion shows and spending up on promotions, thinking they can pay the bills later. There is no later. Focus on your spending priorities; invest in your product so it's not necessary to spend valuable resources on expensive PR.

5. Believing your own publicity
While making the pages of a glossy magazine is a feather in anyone's cap, it's not a million dollar deal. You're not a star. There is no instant stardom. Making it in the fashion business is not an overnight accomplishment; the product is what it's all about.

6. Not targeting credit worthy stores
Designers and wholesalers make the mistake of assuming a prestigious, beautiful-looking store is a good credit risk, bypassing mainstay stores. The store is beautiful because they spent a lot of money on it, which may mean leaving them less money to pay you! Don't assume a beautiful store will be a credit worthy customer. You have to take a hard line; honourable long term businesses aren't built on weak credit.

7. Speculating
Do not over-produce. Do not cut extra goods with the potential of reorders in mind. As it is, you'll get some goods returned, so you'll end up with more inventory on hand than you'd expected. As a rule of thumb, you should never cut over 3 -5 per cent of total orders. Your aim is to increase the initial order amount.

8. Selling on consignment
You never know what you'll get back and you won't be able to use it or resell it to anyone because it'll be shop worn. If a retailer wants the goods on consignment, they're not committed to you. You're much better off selling on straight terms.

9. Dropping the ball
Somebody must watch the watchers at all times in every stage and that's you. Keep it simple, this is a cash business. The sooner you see that fashion is a one season, cash flow business, the better off you'll be. Focus on the long term by producing the best product and keep unnecessary extravagant expenses low.

10. Allowing one store to dominate
Above all, avoid over-concentration. It doesn't matter if it's Myer or David Jones, one account should not dominate your customer portfolio. If it does, you can be hit hard if the store drops your line. Diversify. One customer should not account for more than 25 per cent of your sales. A way to create exclusivity is to create a piece in a particular colour for them and put a time frame on it.

P.S. I have just launched the dates for the next Melbourne and Sydney Secret Bra Business Seminars where I delve more deeply into sales, marketing, lead generation and much more to ensure you have a prosperous next season. Head to the Bra Queen website to secure your seat.

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

Lingerie image: Shirley of Hollywood

Product & innovation: all change at Levi's

The denim industry experienced serious shock waves this season after the release of the highly anticipated collaboration between hot shot denim brand Levi's and French fashion maverick Jean-Paul Gaultier. Ahead of what promises to be an unmissable trend forecast at Fashion Exposed, Ginger Trend Consulting reports.

Fusing Levi's heritage with Gaultier's rebel style, this highlight collection from the jean's brand consists of men's and women's styles for spring/summer 2010 in a classic dark wash, with details reminiscent of 80s Madonna and 70s backlash punk bondage.

The garments are based on classic Levi's products including jeans, jackets, shirts and dungarees in a navy, white and red colour scheme with black outlining. Red stitching is apparent in almost every menswear piece and is used as a clever accent to the genius shape and construction of the denim. Strategically placed straps, exaggerated fastenings and vertical stripes line cuffs on jackets and jeans.

Meanwhile, the womenswear line's construction speaks for itself; Gaultier's signature conical bra shape shines through on jackets and overalls, defined by its provocatively placed white stitching. On-trend harem jeans will also be an 'it' garment of the season.

Levi's also has another development in hand; it's not just the brand's iconic denim that is top of the priority list - the company is now also an established eco-activist. It has made a conscious effort to renovate its San Francisco headquarters into an eco-friendly building using recycled resources including its own unique trick of the trade... Levi's has revolutionised its building insulation through the innovative use of recycled denim, collected from Goodwill charity shops. Plexiglass windows are placed throughout the building, affording a glance at the denim filled walls.

Aside from that, Levi's has launched a care initiative; a scheme for the brand's consumers to encourage the use of cold water washing and line drying in order to reduce the use of electricity in their homes. To encourage the move yet further, a search for inventive and covetable ideas for sustainable drying solutions has been launched in the form of a competition with a $10,000 prize.

If Levi's' innovative leap into an eco friendly world is any indication, companies worldwide should be inspired to do the same in a bid for a greener planet.

The exclusive Australian representative for global trend forecaster Mudpie, Ginger Trend Consulting will present Mudpie's Autumn/Winter 11/12 trend forecast during Fashion Exposed.

Film & Fashion: Fear, Fun & Fantasy

An air of escapism suffuses the forthcoming fashion season, influenced primarily by the interpretation of fairytales via the silver screen, as Ginger Trend Consulting for Mudpie reports. Ginger Trend Consulting will present a sample of its inspired trend insights at Fashion Exposed this August.

Recent times have seen fairytales and fantasy in abundance in the media, with re-works of classic fairy tales becoming major blockbusters, while on British television screens fantasy dramas are growing in popularity as reality TV loses favour. The popularity of re-worked classic fairytales is no surprise, given the pressures of modern life combined with the stress of the continuing economic downturn. In short, people are looking to escape, and what better way than through their favourite childhood fairytales?

The idea of good versus evil in a fantastical setting culminates in one of the Mpdclick spring/summer 2011 trends already discussed in this column; ‘Fable'. We predict this trend to accelerate fully into commercial ranges for SS11 although we are seeing initial sightings of the trend creeping in, with a multitude of Alice in Wonderland inspired looks. Designers have channelled this in a number of ways, from gingham checks at Christopher Kane to innocent femininity at Chanel and ditsy florals at Ralph Lauren to the muted tones and candy pastel colour palettes of the season.

Mad Hatter get ups were seen on the catwalk of Kenzo and Wintel for menswear, while ultimately however, summer won't seem quite right without sporting a bow tie and pocket watch.

Bra Queen - Secrets behind successful start ups

Ahead of what promises to be an inspired seminar offering at Fashion Exposed this August, this issue sees Bra Queen Renee Mayne talking speed, motivation and sales, sales, sales.

As a serial entrepreneur, I'm busy launching new ventures all the time. But how did I get in the position where I am able to do so? Today, I'm going share some big lessons on launching new ventures; lessons I didn't get from text books, but from experience.

Lesson 1 - Speed and momentum
With only so much time in the world, speed is important. You need to push hard, especially at the start-up stage, to gain momentum and get the runs on the board. When you go slowly, nothing much happens, and your enthusiasm will falter as the weeks drag into months.

When launching a new company, a new venture or even a new collection, you need energy and commitment. If you're not willing to put in the hours, especially at start-up stage, you're best off with a job, not a business.

When I'm in business-building mode, I don't even think about taking a break or what time I finish, let alone taking a holiday. In fact, that's the last thing on my mind... I'm too busy getting stuck in and building my new brand and business, whether it is seminars, coaching, TV presenting or my new book.

More than anything, speed gets results quickly. If results are bad, you can correct your course. After all, a business without any wins is as dead as a dinosaur, not only financially, but because your confidence takes a battering. And confidence is the number one thing we need in abundance.

Enthusiasm is everything! The hardest collection or product to sell will be the first. With my first seminar it was hard work to even fill the room, but once I gathered momentum they became so much easier to sell, which is the perfect lead into the second lesson I learnt.

Lesson 2 - Establish a following before you launch
Now is an exciting time to be in business. We have the technology and the know-how to create a community before we launch a business or a collection. We get to create hype and a buzz without having anything to sell. With my first business I didn't have a client list or data base to draw from and it was a hard slog to create brand awareness. No matter how fantastic your collection or product is; if you don't have customers looking at it then it's not worth the hangers it's dangling from.

Once I sold my business and Bra Queen was born, I took a different approach. My aim was to build a following first. Here's how I did it:-

• I become an expert in my field
• I gave great advice and information for free
• I was 100 per cent me. I didn't and I still don't play it safe with my thoughts. Everything is 100 per cent honesty and passionately me.

Because of that, people come to me; businesses, consumers, everyone. My inbox become flooded...why? Trust. I gave with no obligation. Now when I launch a product, a seminar, an e-course or a book, I have a database to draw from.

Lesson 3 - Around 80 per cent of your time must be focused on sales.

Most business owners worry about the things that will not bring them sales, or wait until everything is 100 per cent perfect before they start selling.

Don't worry about putting in complex and costly systems. What's the good of systems without sales? Get the sales first. Get busy making sales. Get the money in. Then you can clean up the mess with systems. But in the beginning, sales and plenty of them are needed... and that's where you should be focused.

If you have a manager, he or she must be made aware of the importance of sales. You're a retail company, not an administration company. I've seen too many businesses stagnate and ultimately fail because no one was focused on the key to winning in business - getting sales! This is the attitude that must prevail throughout your whole company... from managers right on down.

Remember: successful people thrive on the chaos, revel at the mess they've created and juggle numerous projects at the same time... from major ideas right down to the nitty gritty minor details, all without breaking a sweat. This is what we live for! If you do not feel this way, making a lot of money in business is going be very tough.

On a final note, remember, when we think sales, it's not about the money or the bottom line. It's about offering the best value to the client...but we'll delve into that next time.

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

Image: Bra Queen client Underwear of Sweden.

Six steps to beat the recession

Bra Queen Renee Mayne has had enough of talk about retail gloom and doom. In this issue's column her advice is simple: when it comes to beating the recession, attack is the best form of defence!

Okay, so maybe the retail economy didn't quite pack the punch we would all have liked and the Autumn Winter orders were played pretty safe, leaving businesses worried about their next season. But if you curl up into a ball and just accept the worst, then you've already lost. You might as well just shut up shop.

In any case, a downturn in the economy isn't the end of the world. Women still wear bras and people still wear clothes. When terms like ‘GFC' and ‘recession' are flying around, most business give up and stop trying. However much of the time, when the economy dips it's merely reflecting the perceptions of business owners and consumers. People clam up and act like this might just be the big one; the end of retail as we know it. That attitude is what prolongs recession.

Those who react to economic downturns with aggression, determination and passion instead of passivity and negativity will come through with a strong, successful business and a healthy bottom line. To quote Billy Ocean: "When the going gets tough, the tough get going." In other words, if business isn't coming to you then you must go get it. So without further ado, here are six steps to get you started.

One: Value add
Everyone wants to increase sales. However, the truth is you'd be better to take the focus off yourself and your business and start thinking about providing maximum value for your customers. Can your business and your product help other enterprises such as retailers or complementary businesses generate more revenue? If so, play up that aspect of your business and any prospective customer will clear their schedule to hear what you have to say.

Two: Get marketing!
The fatal mistake most businesses make during a recession is to decrease their marketing and advertising efforts. However statistics have proven that marketers who increase their spending during a recession sustain long-term gains in the market as well as profitability. In my previous column I shared with you ways to market your business without it costing a fortune and you can drive your business into territories you would never thought of. It just takes consistency, creativity and a little time.

Three: Build instant revenue with a VIP night
I do joint ventures with local lingerie boutiques. Through ‘Bras, Boobs & Bubbles' I gather a small group of women with similar bra sizes and take them to a store that I would happily recommend. I create a bra workshop, fashion parade and a bra fitting; they pay $30 to attend and receive $30 off on the night. It will add anywhere from $1000 to $3000 onto the business takings plus a massive amount of repeat business, as all women are new to the store and they tell their friends.

Four: Provide exemplary service
I am a huge advocate of, do whatever it takes to retain every client. During a recession, client retention is crucial. Provide the best service and make your client's experience memorable. Don't forget to follow up and make sure that your client's experience was more than they expected it to be.

Five: Network like crazy!
Think of networking like you're single and looking for love. Networking is often overlooked, but it is one of the most beneficial forms of promotion and it's free. Anytime you have an opportunity to talk about your business, product or service, do so. Don't be obnoxious, but don't risk missing opportunities to promote yourself either.

Six: Reassess your stock
To sell you must make an impact...to make an impact you must have stock. Instead of ordering a small amount of a line, order more so you can pack the punch you need it to. Do your research; ensure before you order it meets the right criteria, for example a bra must provide great shape, comfort and support, structure and perfect fit, so you have peace of mind that it will sell when it's on your floor.

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

Image: Bra Queen client Underwear of Sweden.

Utility Luxe

It might be the dominance of tougher economic times or the sheer enduring appeal of the look, but utilitarian dressing is on the rise. As Eryn Behan from Ginger Trend Consulting for Mudpie reports, the style gains added appeal when finished with a decidedly luxe edge.

Slick luxury utility looks dominate the streets while steadily infiltrating the usual batch of glossy fashion rags. While the runways favour cool tonal looks, this translation is a little more off the cuff with mix ‘n' match styling bringing some extra personality to utilitarian trends.

The global runways push all out ‘utility luxe' trends; think sharp, military inspired tailoring, tonal khaki styling, multiple pockets, and an abundance of fluid silk. The addition of heavy utility belts, walking socks and towering ankle boots adds a youthful edge, while crisp wearable separates will appeal to all ages.

Follow the example set by the savvy retailers such as 'Miss Selfridge' and 'TopShop' who already have a range of perfect utility products in store; provide a mix of simple basics and statement pieces laden with pockets and buckles to cater for a broad market.

Social media and small business: the perfect match.

With social media revolutionising the world of retail, this issue sees Bra Queen Renee Mayne deploying her business coaching skills to maximum effect. Her message? If you're a small fashion business who hasn't yet grasped the significance of online networking, it's time to get with the program!

There's a certain innovative networking concept sweeping the globe that promises to change the small business world as we know it: social media.

Can you make money from it? Certainly. However there is much more to social media than sales conversions. If you stood in the middle of a shopping centre screaming and trying to sell your product, what would happen? That's right; chances are most people would make a run for it! Well, social media is no different. You have to build trust and relationships; it's about giving and adding value.

As small business owners we already have a built in advantage in this regard, because we are great at being real... being ourselves, being authentic. In short, we are our business. It's natural for us to communicate and build relationships with our customers. The social media platform is simply an extension of what we do instinctively.

There are many social media platforms available: blogging, Twitter, Facebook, You Tube, My Space and LinkedIn. You can network on all or select one to suit your personality and one that will complement your business. But if you're going to make social media work for you, it's important to avoid common pitfalls. Some of the biggest mistakes are:-

• Adding no value and solely trying to sell.
• Using social media to ‘hide' behind your business.
• Thinking too narrowly and not targeting your customers. It's not just about sales; the opportunities that come from it will far outweigh the dollar signs.
• Not being consistent and losing patience! You have to keep interacting and engaging with customers and it takes time to build that rapport, so allow six months to a year before you really start seeing what social media can do.

Businesses that steer clear of these snags can move beyond the status of mere ‘trading entities' to become brands that forge an emotional connection with consumers. If you're after examples, a couple currently looming large on the web due to their social media skills are Damaris Lingerie and Lane Bryant.

Damaris (pictured left) launched a You Tube video called ‘Chore'. Damaris doesn't have a massive marketing budget so they had to be innovative; a point worth remembering... financial challenges often produce the most creative solutions. The quirky, irreverent and youth-focused ‘Chore' suits Damaris' target market and takes viewers on an intriguing, amusing journey they won't forget.

Lane Bryant (pictured right) recently sent the World Wide Web into overdrive with a controversial ad that got pulled from American TV for being too risqué. However because of the resulting ‘noise', it has now had global coverage on traditional media and social media.

From my own perspective, social media has been central to spreading the word about my brand in an interesting, non-sales driven way. So, what has Bra Queen gained from social media exposure?

• A gig as a contributing author in Sprout Wealth - a fantastic book that shares the commercial successes of businesswomen.
• Numerous radio interviews.
• Podcast interviews.
• TV presenting.
• 70 per cent of my business is from social media
• On average the Bra Queen Exposed blog attracts over 20,000 views a month.
• Put all my social media avenues together and I am talking to around 5000 people, imagine 5000 people standing in your store.
• A host of amazing business relationships and successful joint ventures.

Remember, if you combine traditional networking with new age social networking, your marketing potential is endless. The truth is, small business has never had it so good. We can market ourselves exactly how we need to and position ourselves to an audience of thousands for little or no cost.

So, be innovative in your thinking, use your imagination and the sky's the limit!

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

P.S. Readers wanting to know more about social media are more than welcome to email me at renee@braqueen.com.au

The London Look

With the forecaster's expert style scouts having been out and about on the streets of London in recent weeks, Eryn Behan from Ginger Trend Consulting for Mudpie reports back from the highways and byways of the UK's fashion hub.

Rating it as one of the world's top spots for seeking out hot new street trends, we popped back to the home of ‘Cool Britannia' to catch up with the latest bout of indie kids, scenesters and all out fashion mavericks to find out what's topping their fashion wish list right now.

With the city's notoriously 'happening' back roads of Soho and the shopping Mecca Carnaby Street as our chosen destinations, we were as always delighted by the fresh new looks on offer.

The supporting images show some of London's latest street trends, including the floral jumpsuit, edgy day looks with urban appeal and relaxed separates. We also saw these contemporary trends in the super sophisticated and fashion forward Paris. For a more concise overview of our current street trend analysis register for a free trial at mpdclick.com.

Retail Tip - Merchandise your way to fame!

In a highly competitive market with consumers watching their wallets, it pays to make your instore experience as enticing and engaging as possible. As Mark Davis reports, creative visual merchandising is the key to this. What's more, it needn't cost a lot of money, and if you're plugged in to online networking, it has the potential to turbo-charge your business.

An expert and trainer in all things retail, business coach Mark Davis divides his time between Australia and Europe, traversing the globe to share his retail, sales, business and Internet marketing insights.

Great displays are an art form. For many years they've been the domain of window dressers, merchandisers, company reps and strategic designers. But given the current move to cost cutting, retailers now have to improvise, using their imagination and the tools immediately available. For many this is less about having enough merchandise, or risers, or stands and racks... and more about creativity. In all likelihood it's also about leveraging the power of that little thing called social media.

A display that grabs customers' attention, be they old or new, and tempts them to take more interest in the rest of the store, is a powerful motivator to get them to stick around, hopefully for long enough to buy! Just as a good website encourages users to click and browse, the key merchandise displays in your store are there to grab attention and engage with customers.

In some cases, people will often make the journey to a destination just to see stand-out visual merchandising. Be it a mountain of teddy bears and tigers in the Disney Stores or an eye-catching seasonal display, a destination or feature merchandising ‘moment' can be the thing that makes your store a must-see in your town, city or suburb. Department stores' Christmas window displays are a good example of this, but there's no reason to limit creativity to Yuletide.

And take note; social media has given good visual merchandising an exponential power boost. People love to take photos and put themselves up on Facebook, whether it's next to a living Statue of Darth Vader on Hollywood Blvd, or beside the logo of the store they just shopped in. They hold up bags, they pose, and they promote your store for you. If someone poses with your stock items, in your store, with your staff, next to your renowned merchandising display, then posts the photo to Facebook, you get 100 to 1000 free advertising shots.

And it doesn't end there. Offer to be the photographer for them, take three or four snaps, from which they can create a mini-shopping album, and you get even more photos online. Ask them to add your business to Facebook, and you can tag your store as well!

Remember, people are going to take photos of things they like. Now you can let them promote you for free!

So, to re-cap:-

• Create a merchandise display people want to be photographed beside and tell their friends about.
• Encourage photos.
• Tag people in photos including your Facebook profile.
• Get creative. Have competitions, prizes and offers for all your Facebook friends.

Never forget that the fusion of visual merchandising and social media creates an unbeatable way of driving more business into your store. Good luck with designing that display!

www.coachmarkdavis.com

Images: Sportsgirl (left), Anthropologie - US (right)

Sports focus: Ailin

Specialising in technically advanced, eco-sensitive clothing for women, Ailin has successfully blended an earthy handwriting with the ongoing trend for sportswear and sport inspired fashion, as Eryn Behan reports.

North American sports clothing brand Ailin provides functional, fashionable garments for active women. Founded by sports fan Erin Bell, the brand focuses on sustainable production and the use of eco-friendly fabrics, manufacturing all of its products in Canada.

In Chinese, the brand name Ailin translates to "compassion for nature", a statement reflected across all areas of the company. The business prides itself on its integration of eco-friendly processes, and is dedicated to the ongoing development of sustainability and living with intentionality.

Inspired by Asian culture, Ailin's products convey a comfortable, casual style, with a slightly pagan aesthetic. Slouchy harem pants and ruched fitted vest tops offer ideal yoga outfits, while stretch lycra leggings and polyester tops present layering options for jogging. As well as sports garments, Ailin also supplies ranges of fashionable swim and ski wear. All of Ailin's products have a high technical performance and are made from high quality materials, making them even more desirable to sports conscious consumers.

Ailin also has an online blog, which is updated regularly to inform fans of the brand about issues that may be relevant or of interest to them. Recent posts include examples of other fashion designers, news regarding the opening of a natural dye plant, and a guide to the best places to cycle in the U.S.

The Bra Queen - Are you sabotaging your business?

Business coach and lingerie doyenne the Bra Queen, aka Renee Mayne, knows a thing or two about confidence and determination. In the first column in the lead up to her Fashion Exposed workshops, Renee gives business owners a characteristically feisty pep talk on the secrets of growth.

Are you sabotaging your business?

Around 70 per cent of small business will never grow or make a huge a profit. Why?

You and your ego, that's right! A massive 70 per cent of business owners are stopping themselves from reaching their true potential.

So - how do you achieve substantial business growth?

In order to be a successful business you need to think like one. It sounds too easy right? Wrong. Here's the thing - a lot of you will close your minds to growth and success because you think: "I have been in business for a long time and I know everything there is know about my industry."

My point is - you can never know everything. In fact the day you think you know everything is the very day you know nothing.

Don't get me wrong. I have no doubt you possess a wealth of information and are a very accomplished business person. However if you narrow your focus amid the day to day challenges of running your enterprise, you are stopping yourself from discovering the wealth amazing achievements awaiting you just around the corner.

Make time to learn from your peers and colleagues, even your competitors. Read about successful businesses and put in some hours at relevant workshops, seminars and trade shows, and you'll be astonished at how much new information and inspiration you pick up.

Think like a rock star!

Every successful entrepreneur thinks like a rock star. They believe in themselves and, more importantly, they invest in themselves and in their business, they are always open and they are not afraid to take a calculated risk.

Take Coco Chanel... not quite a rock star but one better, a driven soul who turned herself from a business woman and seamstress into an enduring fashion and cultural icon. She never stopped experimenting, developing and designing new and exciting creations whose legacy remains with us today.

Another business brain turned icon, Richard Branson has conquered the world by using lateral and innovative thinking. The business world would not be where it is today if he wasn't as open-minded and adventurous as he is.

Sometimes we have our fingers so firmly planted on the pulse of our business that we are unable to see things for how they really are.

So remember... think big!

Renee Mayne - Bra Queen
www.braqueen.com.au

Image: Damaris lingerie

Retail Tip 6 - Don't succumb to fear... or discounts

With commentators predicting a grim half year ahead for retailers, it's all too easy to throw in the towel and join the discounting frenzy. Here, Mark Davis explains why retailers avoid such strategies at all costs... and what they should consider instead.

Right now retail is in a danger zone; interest rates are going up, the mortgage is getting tighter, sales are dipping... and everyone seems set to enter panic zone. So if you're sitting at your computer attempting to fend off the jitters, I hope that this issue's double-edged tip helps:-

You won't achieve anything by being the same as everybody else. And you really won't achieve anything by panic discounting.

The other day I found myself walking through Melbourne's Crown Casino. Brand new, six-figure fit-outs of designer labels lined the walkway; we're talking sleek chrome, gold, black and silver windows, cool lighting, music and opening hours with guaranteed traffic that the rest of us can only dream of. And what was emblazoned right in the middle of most windows? "10-70% off"!

Let's think about this for a second or two: Was this a discount factory outlet? No.
Was this an ageing strip mall having a closing down sale? No. Was this a brand nobody knew about that was launching with a teaser item to coax customers into the store? No.

This was desperate shock advertising that completely disregarded the casino's target market. Most people visiting the casino sincerely believe they're in for a win, and will then be able to buy expensive clothes at full price tag that they can show off to their friends. Even those not in the mood for gambling are most likely lapping up the high-tone, luxurious atmosphere.

Casino or no casino, when you use price slashing as your lead marketing strategy, it's a downer. And in the end, it's all people see. What they don't see is your store. Arguably it's different if you're in a discount shopping centre, but even there such strategies are questionable... When you watch shoppers in outlet stores, no discount is ever enough... most of them are just window shopping. It's a high traffic, low conversion method.

In tough economic times, what retailers need is to break free from the herd. And here's why: a hundred sales at $100 is $10,000; a hundred sales at 50% is $5000. That may cover your cost and overheads, but not your staff, and you can say goodbye to profit. Discounting 50% should only be ever used for those last10 pieces on a rack by the door; never for a big promotion, never for attracting people into store, and never in your mind as a salesperson. If your staff focus on discounts, you'll be in serious trouble within three months.

Here's how we get those 100 sales and turn them into $20,000.

1. Teach your staff to cross-sell to other items. Not just suggesting, but walking customers and their initial purchases to the racks, matching the pieces, giving them four or five things to try on and encouraging them to get into the clothes.

2. Teach your staff the rule of three. The rule of three says that if you have three items, people will choose the middle one nine times out of ten. In terms of price, this means - budget option, good, and luxury. It helps to find out the shopping budget first, usually from assessing the customer in terms of their existing clothing, accessories, and attitude.

3. Talk to customers! Some women shop on days they feel great, and will spend a lot, others shop to get out of the house. If you take the time to build a relationship, they'll return, bring their friends, and buy more every time.

4. Remember to tell your staff that it's not their decision when to stop selling. It's the customers' decision when to stop buying. I've had sales of $30 turn into $200 using this method. I've seen stores where a woman just wanted a piece of jewellery, and ended up buying the dress, shoes and bag to match.

Now, more than ever, the professional sales person earns their money. At Christmas they are just order takers; tough times are when they show why they were hired in the first place. Talking of which, the $5000 you were going to lose on discounting, you can now invest in training your staff to double their existing sales targets. Pay them commissions and bonuses, and you'll still be way ahead.

And please, as a favour to me, rip up those discount signs.

www.coachmarkdavis.com

Sporty Spice

UK trend forecaster Mudpie worked the runway and trade fair season to take a close look at female sportswear trends for AW 10/11. Ginger Trend Forecasting for Mudpie shares the season's most colourful sporting highlights.

Block colour is dominating the outerwear sector in vibrant colour palettes, with particular emphasis on Velcro fastenings and decorative buttons. Arcadia green was a stand out colour, used on colour blocked jackets, however tones of grey encased the majority of sports ranges for the season.

Relaxed fits, particularly the 'crop top', were key, along with relaxed jersey all-in-one's and sweater dresses, best achieved using long line jersey and knitted fabrics.

Bottoms were seen in the form of draping harems, micro shorts and prominent panelled leggings, enabling practicality and numerous layered styling options.

Images from left:Lacoste, Erin Wasson, thakoon, Lacoste

Paris calling

Paris Fashion Week is world renowned for showcasing the premiere class of design innovation and cutting edge fashion. Here Ginger Trend Consulting for Mudpie looks at the top women's trends coming out of the Paris runways for AW 10/1.

Boyfriend Envy
Paris Fashion Week pushes a strong female identity, painting autumn/winter 10/11's muse as a force to be reckoned with. Masculine tailoring becomes a must for womenswear ranges, declaring the message that whatever a man can have, women can have too; think roomy overcoats, slouch suits and tomboy accessories.

Camel
As heritage trends dominate the runways and a plethora of designers opt for a no gimmicks response to fashion in the aftermath of recession, a range of classic hues are resurrected for contemporary appeal. Camel comes through as Paris Fashion Week's top retro shade, working best for wool coats and timeless blazers.

Leather Pants
Black leather emerges as the fabric of the season, appearing in ‘must have' collections across all of the ‘big four' fashion weeks. The premier designers from Paris employ the use of the favoured material for statement trousers, the perfect accompaniment for tough warrior trends.

Deconstruction
The grunge identity of the past two seasons is reinterpreted for grown-up appeal with the use of some nifty deconstruction; suits are re-worked while dresses and separates are slashed, draped and reshaped, resulting in dark layered looks rife with alternative flair.

Images from left: Paul & Joe, Chloe, Moon Young Lee, Balmain

Retail Tip 5 - Learn to delegate!

One of the simplest yet most overlooked business secrets is that you can't do everything yourself. Here Mark Davis spills the beans on the art of sharing the load.

Being in business can be tough. Operating your own retail venture involves a multitude of skills: hiring staff, dealing with government compliance, keeping everybody safe and making sure you don't break one of the thousands of rules for your store, your franchise, your industry, your council, your state and your country.

So it's really important to consider this: the business doesn't run without you, so you need to replace yourself.

If you ever want to experience freedom in your business, you don't just need to delegate; you need to actively focus on replacing your activities with a skilled professional who can do the same things.

The funny thing is, when you do, you'll find that your replacement for say.... book keeping... does it faster and better than you - after all, it's their speciality.

As a business owner, you're probably a generalist - able to do everything. However if you can do everything OK, it makes sense to hire people who can do some things excellently.

Then you can take a holiday knowing that all the aspects of your business are taken care of. Some things require your physical presence, others don't. Book keeping can be done through elance.com or ymii.com with an outsourcer in India... Writing contracts, agreements, even your payroll can also be outsourced.

Other things, such as sales or merchandising, will require physical staff. For areas such as marketing, it might pay to outsource to an agency or a young graduate, whose fresh ideas will give your business a new lease on life.

Think about it!

www.coachmarkdavis.com

Sobered up style

For spring/summer 2011 Mpdclick presents three trends; Fable, Enlighten & Sobriety. Having looked at Fable and Enlighten in recent editions, this week the forecaster focuses on how the Sobriety trend will translate to clothing for Summer 2011.

The material excesses of the pre-recession society are forgotten, in favour of a humble, wholesome existence. Pleasure is found in relationships, community and life experience; a utilitarian revival begins, placing emphasis on style based on authenticity and timelessness.

For fashion and tailoring influence is taken from the simple, naive ideals of the American settlers, focusing on the handmade, decorative and detailed aspects of their home wares and clothing. Charming embroidery, crochet and quilting recall the traditional hobbies of bygone times and offer a handcrafted look.

Eclectic customisation fuels the ‘make do and mend' ethos. Delicate lace and broderie anglaise complement and add a touch of prim Victoriana to heavier fabrics. Fine tailoring creates sharp, clean silhouettes, which are crucial to this direction.

For leisure wear, versatility and longevity are central qualities in garments, footwear and accessories, resulting in a return to classic shapes and designs. Details are unfussy and lines clean, symbolic of America's optimism for the future with Obama in power. Simplicity is key, with fashion taking its cue from the pared down functionality of Amish dress.

Images from left: Paul and Joe, Derek Lam, Ralph Lauren

Retail Tip 4 - Promote yourself online

Time was when the older generation thought its duty was to pass down wisdom to the youngsters. Not these days; if you want to understand how online promotions work - ask a teenager, as Mark Davis reports.

Many businesses don't have the time or budget to do a lot of advertising, and they only usually know one or two ways to do things; usually traditional methods of advertising and lead generation, which these days are time consuming, expensive, and give a poor response.

Taking a bit of time to learn new advertising methods can be a challenge, especially when most of the methods today are online. Ever dealt with a Google Ad, Facebook page or Twitter account? For many people, the thought of online ads is enough to send shivers down their spine... and to consult with experts can cost more than the original advertising budget.

So here's my top tip for today...

Learn from a teenager.

Find out what your kids, or your staff's kids do, to promote things online these days and copy their strategies. They'll be doing things you couldn't dream of, but they understand a couple of things really well:-

1. Referrals. If you recommend it, I might buy it. If a stranger tries to sell it, I'm less likely to. Find out how teens are promoting themselves and their ideas and favourite products for free online. Then pay them a small amount to promote you too.

2. Online ads are the chief reason why Facebook and Google are worth billions of dollars. This is because they work. Start off with baby steps by finding free Google Adwords credit and spending just $50 to test a few ads in text, picture or video format. It's just one more thing to add to your schedule, but take 10 minutes a day, and in a month you'll be a natural.

Finally, it's worth talking to kids about why they put so many photos online. I can't oversell this enough - pictures online are the new virtual catalogue, be it on a website, a Facebook account or in an email attachment. Use the power of pictures to sell your products, or just to let people know you exist.

www.coachmarkdavis.com